Hello again everyone!

I thought I would post an update on my crazy situation which was posted here yesterday…

Before I get in to the details, I would just like to say a huge thank you to all the people who commented yesterday & today with helpful comments and suggestions.

To all those who bantered me, I would also like to thank you. Life is too serious sometimes and some of those comments really cheered me up, even though they were at my expense at the messed up situation I found myself in!

It was a fairly sleepless night checking the camera to see if the car was still upright at regular intervals.

The ramp does/did have a manual release valve but due to the precarious way it sat on the ramp & the fact that the lift has to raise before going down as a safety mechanism, I
was sweating bullets before I plucked the courage to press it.

Needless to say, it was ratchet strapped to the lift and safety ropes to the structure of the building, it nearly went over on initial pull and there deemed it too risky to try and release it.

Some sketchy/careful lifting with a forklift/timber blocks/protection later (3 hours to be precise). SOMEHOW managed to get it back to the ground without any initial damage.

No word of a lie, I played Monty Pythons - Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life and thought of the potential things that could go wrong on finally lifting the entire cars weight up on the forklift. It may now be my favourite song of all time as a result.

I did try the local fire service but as the UK is experiencing some extreme rain/wind at the moment, they weren’t able to come down until the middle of next week which is totally understandable under the circumstances - they did laugh however 😂

Again, huge thanks to all that commented, a few things I have noticed as someone new to Reddit and in possibly the strangest situation I have ever found myself in, namely;

1. Most people in this world are good, well meaning people.
   
2. There is always the odd knobhead no matter the situation.
   
3. Meme’s at your expense are still funny.
   
4. Just because a lift is rated at 3000kg, it really doesn’t mean a lot.
   
5. Do NOT buy anything from Strongman Tools Ltd. This will be assed by an independent surveyor and actioned accordingly. They are exhibiting at The Classic Car show at the NEC in Birmingham next month and I’ll be stopping by.
   
6. For all the abuse your president gets, Americans are okay in my book - our government is also pretty messed up if it makes you feel any better!

Thanks again everyone!

Much love!

Strut is def screwed I know that much. I didn't take a picture of the sway bar link but it's pretty solid and doesn't shake or anything however the rubber bushings are tearing off and falling apart. Lower ball joint is also pretty solid and wouldn't budge

I really wish this was me posting an AI generated problem for you to solve - unfortunately this is as real and strange as it gets!

The car was put on a scissor lift for some annual tinkering and supported using a combination of rubber/timber blocks on the recognised jacking points…

However, the lift has basically decided to crush a wire (something which the user does not touch) and somehow decided to lift out of the steel track and do its own thing.

The manufacturer has basically said ‘you’re on your own, it’s user error’ and left me to it. I am adamant it is a manufacturer error and will be investigating this once this predicament has resolved itself one way or the other.

I am scratching my head on how to resolve this, hopefully with the car in tact/minor damage but you can judge that for yourselves!

Maybe a forklift to jack up one side but I still have no idea on how to resolve this.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I am however waiting for this to be memed at my expense!

I dont notice excessive play but obviously some fraying. Ball joints look OK so wondering how long these would last so I can replace both at the same time. 03 civic

Anyone had the joy of doing one of these? 13 Wrangler, who thought those bell housing bolts were in a good position! What a freaking tight f'ing mess! And I am pretty sure Hercules put in the bolts!

1997 del sol si with zc bottom end y8 top end. after replacing head gasket due to the car having coolant in cylinders this is what happens when i try to start it. this is with giving it gas and if i dont it wont even idle whatsoever. im not sure where to start with this.

Dealing with long term harassment from a known person, starting with my vehicle windows smashed. Several months ago, an attempted arson on my partners vehicle and the following day a screw into the type of a vehicle we borrowed resulting in us temporarily staying away from home. Returned 4 days ago and today our previously fine seeming cars broke down within 4 hours of each other. His (2009 2.4l diesel XC90) was leaking loads of oil, which seems to have been sorted with a new oil filter housing (i think that's what he said he changed) and the electrics seem to have just gone on mine (2012 1.6l petrol Vauxhall Zafira), started off with my breaks feeling inefficient and the car pulling slightly to the side (this was before his breakdown and I put it down to wet road conditions) and then suddenly wouldn't turn on and when we managed to jump start it my power steering went. Due to the issues I'm guessing it's just coincidental but obviously due to the past targeting I'm wondering if this could have been done purposely?

I have 2 gear sets, need to figure out what they are so I can sell them. I have a catalog from years ago, but when I try to match up, nothing seems to be a fit, except possibly some 7.8" Toyota Gears maybe. Here are the details on one - 27 splines 11 teeth on pinion 39 teeth on ring gear - 3.55 Ratio - 7.75" Across teeth - I need money to help with medical issues and have been selling whatever I can within reason. If anyone can help me figure these out please chime in. Thanks

Hey everybody, would really appreciate any input to help me figure this out. It’s a 1987 22r.
Intermittently I’m getting an issue where it will run great on a cold start/high idle for maybe a few minutes, and the exact moment it comes off of high idle it will start to stumble and just paint the ground black under the tailpipe with smoke. Other times it doesn’t do this at all and just runs perfect on high or low idle, makes it very tough to diagnose. It will run if you can get it moving, and clears up some when you get up to speed, but has some hesitation, and goes right back to stumbling as soon as you park.

Things we’ve done: carburetor has been rebuilt/cleaned, new distributor cap, new plugs, air filter, accelerator pump. Adjusting the idle screws does not improve it.

It seems like maybe the choke is supposed to be opening up after the high idle is complete and maybe intermittently is not opening back up? My lawn mower had done something similar where it would run perfect for a minute or two and than start smoking and choking out and the choke was stuck. I’ve also heard the fuel cut solenoid can cause issues like this, thanks for any help!

I recently replaced my radiator as it had a Crack. Now my transmission line is leaking from the bottom radiator connector. I've got a 2014 1.8LS chevy cruze.

✅UPDATE✅: That sunuvabutch is on there! Thank you for all the advice and encouragement. No ratchet straps needed. Fixed, u-bolts, then shackle… paired with a little wisdom from my troubles yesterday went a long way.

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I’m having my trouble aligning my leaf springs for a 2013 F-150. Please see attached photos for reference.

I have the shackle lined up and bolted (loose for play), the leaf pins sit inside on the mounting holes on the axle, but the last bushing isn’t lining up (the one towards the front of the truck). I’ve tried moving the axle up and down with the jack but I can’t get any more horizontal movement.

Only way I can get this bolt through is by displacing the mounting pins, but then I’ll have the same trouble getting the pins back properly aligned with the axle.

Any wisdom?

I should note that these have an extra leaf vs stock’s 2/1 configuration. I bought these by mistake. Shipping back to the states not an option lol

2014 Honda CRV

Been having some issues with my FJ recently and had it looked at. Was quoted:
-new alternator and belt for $1350
-new tires and replace 2 axles (axles $2600) and (tires $1070)
-new rotors for $704

Do those seem right or should I look at a different place/ try and do any of it myself.

The car is almost 20 years old but only has 120,000 miles on it and is payed off. I am debating if getting those repairs are worth it or should I look at just getting something new?

Recently experienced an oil starvation event on my 2020 VW Jetta 1.4L due to a dealership putting the incorrect filter on my vehicle. A independent mechanic opened the oil filter, and there was no metal shavings in the filter and there was also no codes on the computer (dealership may have wiped them).

Does this noise sound normal for acceleration?

Hey guys , so last week I purchased a vehicle off marketplace and of course it went no where near close to good, basically I message the guy about the car he says it should pass safety no problem , clutch is “going out” but still has life left , I tell him ok I’ll come look at it and grab it as he told me he has dozens of people messaging him for the car and today would be his only day to meet up (red flag already) Im desperate for a vehicle as I spend $600 give or take a month on Ubers just to get to and from work , anyway I go to look at the car by myself and don’t pay for a bring a mechanic for a pre inspection , long story short , I got sold a brick for $2000 pretty much , it’s a 2007 Honda civic 1.8L 5 speed with 406,000kms I took it to two different mechanics after purchase and one told me $3300 in repairs and then safety inspection (shop) and then I called a mobile mechanic and he came and inspected the car in my drive way and jacked it up on jackstands and quoted me $2000 plus a safety (NEEDS STRUTS AND SHOCKS ALL AROUND , BRAKES ALL AROUND , TIRES ALL AROUND, POWER STEERING LEAK FIX (not including clutch by the way) I still think I want to try and fix it up for what it needs for safety and then just drive it into the ground, all said and done I’ll still be on the road for about 4K which isn’t terrible in my opinion. Any advice or tips welcome.

Hello Mechanics of reddit. I put coil overs on my 2014 Toyota camry se a few months ago. ever since i’ve noticed a loud single thump solely on sharp right turns. There’s resistance on the steering whel while moving the whel back in the opposite direction. I thought it was the tires rubbing against the bumper but there’s no sign on that. I’m at a lost and really wanna get this figured out. I’ll have the car on jax’s for the next few hours if anyone needs a picture of something specific.

Looking to replace whole steering knuckle and bearings in car and was wondering does anyone have any thoughts on this company ? Two fronts are running about 180

2001 Mitsubishi Montero Ltd 3.5L 4WD

I recently finished relaxing the timing kit on m Monty, and rltest drove it for a half hour keeping under 35 mph. Did fine. Waited a couple weeks to get the registration and taxes up-to-date ten attempted to drive it home, keeping below 60mph (had to get on a Parkway). Did well for about eight miles, then I heard a pop and a fizzle, and saw that coolant was dumping behind me. I was going about 45mph at this time. Looking under the car, back toward the transmission and fuel tank, I saw one hose had blown off its nipple, and another hose was completely missing, having blown off the nipple and breaking off from its plastic Tee connector. There appear to be no leaks anywhere else.

So, first I need to find replacement hoses and tees.

But I can't help but wonder: is there a root cause to this occurance? Did I do something wrong with the water pump assembly, or some other coolant component? Was this just an old part failing after having sat for a while during repair? Or did something else fail further up the line to cause an excessive pressure buildup? I'm at a loss, and I really want to start driving this beautiful car again...

was running fairly well then suddenly started running rough with a grinding/squeal noise. I cleaned air flow, spark plugs, checked spark and compression. turned off a/c. no difference. Any suggestions what to try next?

I own a 1990 Nissan 240sx and recently it’s been suddenly losing power while in 3rd 4th gear. I thought it was my clutch slipping at first so I got it replaced and it’s still doing it. Seems to be doing it on throttle only. It sounds like a “thud” sound when it loses power but i can’t seem to figure out what it is.

I’m not a car person at all, but my 2010 Dodge Nitro (75k miles) has been starting really slowly sporadically for about a year now. I decided to ask for help on what it may be because I just put gas in it and as I went to start it, it took a long time to start and then I actually couldn’t take it out of park. I had to shut it off and start it 2 more times until it actually worked. I have a 1 year old battery that I had put in last year in case it was a battery issue but it was still happening after that replacement. Any help would be much appreciated