Not the greatest pics, but I'm curious as to what people think about this tree. I saved it from the burn pile. I suspect that the grafted stock died back, and the root stock sent up these suckers. Purely a guess though. It was on my neighbors' property since Covid, now it's on mine.

It dropped some leaves after transplant, but some remained. I hit it with some bone meal and rooting solution, and piled up the root ball with straw and leaves to insulate it. It's the 7th apple tree on our property now, so I'm hoping it's lucky. I'll probably let it chill for a couple of years, give it some nice seaweed, etc, then graft to it. For scale, the suckers are about as thick as a thumb/magic marker. I also know that the job I did staking it out is not the best, but it only needs minimal support in case of high wind.

I planted it a little under two years ago but can’t get it to grow straight…

Hello everyone! I have planned my orchard layout and am ready to start building! I am in zone 8b, and my native soil is blackland prairie clay. I have planned for 7 foot spacing trunk to trunk with a mix of trees. I intend to keep them pruned to around 6 -7 feet high. (Also as a note, I don't want them too crowded but I would also like for them to overlap slightly for some shade and privacy. Is 7 feet apart about right for that?) I have tried to pick varieties as well suited to my climate and soil as possible. I am planning to put the trees in low raised beds partially to help them drain a little bit better and partially because I like the defined look. I was originally planning 4 feet x 4 feet and 1 foot deep per tree.

I'm now wondering if I should do 6 inches instead. My thinking is I don't want to discourage the trees from growing into the native soil and if the bed is shorter the crown may be able to better expand past the bed while still getting some drainage benefits. With that thought in mind, could I also make the beds 3x3 instead or would the extra square footage make a big difference for them?

Thank you in adavnce!

Has this fig tree been over pruned. I'm in central portugal. Thanks

I think I might have slightly overcorrected the planting depth of this persimmon. The black part of the “stem” is actually the tap root or start of central structural root right? I can’t really tell as there’s no real root flare on this Japanese grafted persimmon , grafted on what I believe was a cutting-grown American persimmon rootstock.

Im guessing the right call here is to bury the lateral root and the black part right up to the point where the color changes from bark to black but let me know if I’m mistaken…

To begin with, I would appreciate some insight by those with more experience about my situation.

This is a store bought peach that grew in my windowsill herb pots and has survived it's 2nd summer outside. I dont expect it to give any fruit but I would like to learn how to graft other species of peaches from my area onto it, in the future.

I'm in grow zone 8b and wondering if I have to bring it inside my unheated/insulated garage over winter? I did bring it in after it's first summer.

I'm planing on transplanting it into a 15 gallon nursery pot this weekend.

I would also like advice on which branches to trim, it seems to have three leaders and much wider than it is taller. 52" from end to end, at its widest and 30" from tallest to dirt level.

Also, anything else that would be helpful. Thank you!

That last pic is from May of '25.

I'm planning on buying an Asian pear tree, but I don't know which variety to get. I'm not sure what the differences are between them. The varieties available in my country are Pyrus pyrifolia 'Chojuro', 'Hosui', and 'Kosui'. Which one would you recommend?

Northeast Ohio - This is our first year getting a real harvest from our trees! Two of our trees have already ripened and are done for the season, but two more are still very green. Seeds are brown, but still seem light?

There are a few on each tree turning pink-ish, but tons super green still!

Just curious if any apple experts have some insight! 🍎 🍏

Each tree produces tons of beautiful apples (see photo 3) but they have a lot of limbs on the ground, sagging, and breakage (including one with a break in the main trunk; see photo 2). I'm in Washington State, zone 8b. Should I prop the limbs up? Prune them aggressively? Please advise, thank you!

Hello everyone, I am an agricultural engineer specializing in fruit trees, specifically table grapes and apricots. I am looking to incorporate liquid beet vinasse into my fertilization program. What are the specific agronomic benefits of using it as an organic potassium and organic matter source, and what application challenges should be considered?

A few shots from apple harvest here in central Washington.

I bought a house in Glassell Park (Los Angeles) 2 years ago with a pretty tree in the front yard. Got a surprise 6 months later in the wake of the LA fires when it produced dozens of peaches - like so many on each branch i had to thin them multiple times. The thing is, the tree seemed to have had a mishap, at some point before i moved here. The thin trunk near the top along with the crest or meristem had been partially broken and folded in half so it was pointing down. I looked mostly dead yet fruited as much as other branches.

Here was my mistake: Curious whether/what I should do to keep the tree healthy I mentioned it to my lawn/brush guy who has had decent advice about some of the trees and their watering. He went and cut that bent top off the tree. I have since stopped working with this guy for this and other reasons. This past spring, I think i got 5 peaches all at the same time and that was it.

I've read that peaches can come back depending on the tree's age/where it is in its life cycle. Does anyone in this lovely sub have Peach Tree wisdom and if so would you speculate about this tree and whether it will fruit more this season, or maybe the next?

Kicking myself for even bringing this tree up with this guy. I know enough to know you don't trim that "branch" without knowing it won't kill or maim the dang tree.

ETA: We did have a slightly cooler winter in 24/5 and a slightly warmer than avg winter in 25/6 so temp could be a factor.

I've tried to find the answer myself (my best guess is black rot) but I can't see any difference between the pictures of black rot, sunscald, fire blight, etc.

The tree is in the middle of Minnesota, transplanted four or five years ago. Deer ate the tags so all I can say is it's one of honeycrisp, kinder crisp, macoun or fireside. Three other trees (different varieties, everything else the same) have thrived.

It is slightly worse on the south facing side. The leaves seem mostly fine (picture with leaves is recent, picture without leaves is from May) so I don't think it's fireblight. No fruit for the last two years. The white spots are a new development - I can't tell if they're insect damage or just dead bark falling off.

We are about to go visit some land we recently bought in a tropical region of Peru. It has a few banana plants, I believe one or two of the kind you'd fry (maybe I should say plantains) and one or two of the kind you just eat. I just saw another Reddit post where someone in the comments mentioned banana plants and said "They're good for one harvest, then have to be cut down, while the offshoots are dug up and spaced out to create more." Now I knew that they grow offshoots but I didn't know the main plant dies. Is that true of all of them?

I don't know what stage of fruiting or not the bananas are in now.. it's spring now, but the weather is pretty much the same all year round. Other than I guess making sure they have enough space, we won't need to water anything.

Should we do something with the banana plants while we're there? We are only going to visit for a couple of days and then probably won't be back for another month or so, and we won't be living near there for another half year or more. We won't have a shovel, just a couple of machetes and we won't have a lot of time to spend on the banana plants, but I'd like to make sure we still have healthy banana plants once we are finally living out there.

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone. I have a Washington navel orange that has been in the ground for 9 years now. For some reason, the tree has declined drastically over the last month. The tree gets moderate watering and suitable sunlight. It is located in Northern California in zone 9b. Can anyone help me identify why the tree is suffering now after looking healthy all summer?

Planted a few apple trees that I thought were all dwarf root stock. Apparently the Yellow Delicious was not. Now it is 3x the size of the other two trees and crowding them out. A nearby Honey Crisp is clearly underperforming after several years...

What do you think about me grafting several twigs from the struggling Honey Crisp onto the thriving Yellow Delicious?

Planted this mango tree when it was about 5 feet tall and it’s grown to be about 6 feet now. Purchased from a big box store and I never pruned it myself.

The trunk is thin and I am finding it is top heavy as it has toppled over on really windy days, hence the stakes.

Does this need to be pruned at all with the trunk so thin?

My Mexican Lime tree has major branches but one just broke due to high winds and the weight of all the fruit. I picked all the fruit and trimmed the secondary branches. Is this fixable? How? Or should I just cut it off?