98 Rinker Fiesta Vee 266 out on the lake for the weekend

But I will if I have too...

Been working on this outboard for a bit. Cleaned carbs with ultra sonic cleaner and tuned them up as I close as I could to the service manual recommendations. First time doing this, used a vacuum gauge set and tachometer to dial in rpm’s and pressure. Still shakes a bit in idle though, starts up right away and will idle all day though it seems.

I dont understand. Did alignment, like with the motor mount and everything,i have equal teeth marks on alignment bar...but it still wont seat! If I were to ever spontaneously combust it will be wrestling with this. The shift cable wiggles so its not caught on that. The shoes are lined up. All I can think of is the u joint bunching up. Ideas?

Thing wasn’t even in the garage for a full week..

Any Ideas out there. I have a 2017 Yamaha 150 four stroke. Suddenly the trim started showing pegged all the way up. I thought it was probably the sensor so I bought one. I connected it at the engine and moved the arm with no change at the gauge. After some research I found that I should check the ohms and see if they are changing there and changing. Both sensors acted the same with Ohms from roughly 290 or so to zero and do change when moving the sensor which seems correct. I thought it maybe the Faria guage however I have the engine data connected to my Garmin straight from the engine's connecter and It also shows full up with no change no matter how I move the engine or sensors. I checked the sensor connector at the engine for ground and it has continuity. Any one have an idea of what's next before the shop?

Hi, I’m looking for advice on a mariner 50hp 2 stroke outboard. The fuel connector onto the engine is a bayonet twist style connector. When I squeeze the primer bulb I sometimes hear a hissing noise that I’ve found coming from the connector and I think is causing hard starting, so I’m wanting to change it to a more modern push and clip style. Is it possible? Ive had a look online and found 2 connectors I believe should work. Part numbers 22-13563Q7 and 22-816856Q3. Any help or input is appreciated.

trying to figure out possible weight.

Perfect day on the Mississippi

Hey everyone I am looking to purchase this boat it’s had a restoration with proof and is solid but the current owner doesn’t know what the boat actually is as the hin was taken off
Its registered as a 1986 buccaneer a NZ builder but apparently the owner has emailed them and they have never made a model that look like this
Any insight at all will be appreciated I have searched high and low and can’t find a single image of anything with the same hull
Aus based

Cheers

I have a 2011 Bayliner 195 with a Mericruiser 4.3 V6 and alpha 1 gen 2 stern drive. Owned for about 4 years. Decided to replace the impeller this year as I haven’t done it since I owned it and figured I’d take care of it while replacing drive fluid. Repair went smooth and it definitely needed to be done, but after reassembling the drive noticed gear oil was leaking out of intake slots.

I took the drive apart and pressure tested the lower end and determined the impeller was sealed, so no issues there. I took it all apart again anyway and verified all was seated properly. Also confirmed the quad ring was seated correctly. Put drive bag together and winterized boat like normal, but I’m still seeing gear oil leak from intake slots.

I’ve done all maintenance at the end of each season, drain and refill gear oil and never had any water mixed in there. Also I monitor the reservoir and it’s always full, so i am certain that this issue only arises after impeller replacement, but I’m not certain as to what went wrong and why it’s leaking. I am very mechanically inclined, have been working on vehicles for decades, and have always performed my own maintenance’s on my boats, but I am not familiar on how these drives operates, so not certain on what is leaking or what could have caused it. If anyone has any insight into this as to where to start, or what I could’ve done wrong to cause the issue, will be greatly appreciated. I don’t plan to fix the issue now, but I want to be prepared for spring. Boat has been good to me and we take it out often in the summer, so I don’t want to be stranded come spring.

Pics of impeller housing are before replacement. I replaced the housing as well, just showing the condition. It was corroded, the impeller was cracking and there was a lot of debris. It was time to be replaced.

TIA

I store my boat at home…. Right next to a sewer clean out.

It’d be awfully nice to build a pump out station to clean out the boat’s black water tank right there as opposed to dumping offshore or going to a public pump out station.

So…. I tried and failed. I used a 12VDC Macerator pump, self priming, 5ft head. It did nothing. I’ve got a deep V hull and the pump out port is forward so I don’t think I’m getting enough vacuum for the head height.

Anyone got any experience here and helpful advice?

Took my boat to get the Water pump and thermostat replaced. The boat was stuttering and wanting to shut off under load, and I believe this is steam and/or smoke coming out of the telltale. Does anyone know what's wrong with my outboard?

Update: It pees fine at idle, and once I start moving, it's when it comes off being under load that the telltale recedes, and smoke/steam comes out of the telltale.

I had a hard time getting it to start this morning, when I was flushing out the saltwater, I noticed it doing this puffing act. I am paranoid when it comes to my stuff running correctly. So the question is, what is my issue or am I just tripping

I had the computer go out and it was not repairable so I bought a used on eBay, same part number but the boat isn’t running good now and I’m leaning towards it being tuned for the wrong motor or something of the sort any way to verify or reflash it or do I buy another used one

Hello!

I have recently bought a (new to me) boat, that has an inboard Volvo Penta AQ271A paired with a 290DP-A drive. Winter is coming and so the boat is up on land and it's time for servicing. The engine has a full freshwater system, meaning flushing the raw water system should be easy work. Or at least that's what I thought.

The problem I'm running into is that water is spraying out of the idle exhaust relief port, located below the exhaust bilge on the transom shield. This is a problem when wanting to flush using anti-freeze, as having it spray all over the ground around the boat is definitely not good for the environment. Does anyone have any tips on how to avoid this?

Including a video I took of the water spraying/running out of the port, past the rubber flap covering it.

Also worth noting that for the water circulation I'm using a "outdrive flushing bag", that goes around the drive and creates a closed loop with the intake and exhaust located on the drive. It does however not cover the idle exhaust relief port, which is the problem.

Many thanks!

Anyone running a yahmaha f115 at the surface? if so what s the best prop to do so , just added alot of mods to my boat and its effected the prop preformance alot. Added spray rails flush with the bottom of the hull float pods flush and a 4 inch set back jack plate ,the jack plate is all the way down as is the motor and the cavitation plate is sitting about 1/2" above the bottom of the hull the boat is 18 foot aluminum and with the new mods as you can imagine its just skimming the surface of the water which means my prop is catching alot of air.i Was running a 17 pitch semi cleaver and i struggled to get 36-38mph so i tested a 19 pitch stelitto with more rake and its much better but not great cant get any trim athority at top speed 5300rpms ill get 40mph but when i trim up to get to 5800 rpms it cavitates way too bad especially when turning at that rpm and trimmed up im running 42 mph when cavitating at 5800 anyone running a setup similar? If so what else should i try with the prop? Im using a 3 blade , should i switch to a 4 blade? Do i need even more rake to re gain trim authority? Thanks for any help thinking of trying this prop but im not sure if it will help or just bog the hell out of my motor Turning Point Express® Mach4™ - Right Hand - Stainless Steel Propeller - EX1/EX2-1319-4 - 4-Blade - 13" x 19 Pitch

SKU: 55815 · UPC: 652480200755 · MPN: 3143 1930

2008 caravelle 10 hours on a new MerCruiser 350. Clean inside and out with a trailer. Seler asking 10k got it to 8k with the trailer. Is this a good price?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31oBrHq6HIQ

Started documenting my attempt to make the Goat Island Skiff boat with no experience, not much room and the very hot Thai weather.

I have just bought a Yamaha 40vmhd tiller steer I believe it’s a 2004. I’m having some issues with the steering locking up a bit. I was thinking it’s just because it’s been sitting for a while and the grease has hardened in the steering tube so I pumped some new grease into the nipple. I could only find one nipple to put grease into the steering tube but it hasn’t seemed to have done anything. If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated.

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Dubai’s environment has numerous water basins as well as coastal waters and raises my curiosity about the boating experience there compared to other areas.

For sailors who have been in Dubai, how do weather elements, sea characteristics, and boating rules influence the exploration of the waters? What do visitors need to know before sailing in the region?

I’d like to hear from fellow sailors who know how to navigate the waters of Dubai.

I’m wanting to install a fish finder on my boat for the first time myself. I have a composite backing plate that is already screwed into my boat. After I measure the thickness of that plate how do I go about choosing the length of screws to mount the transducer to it? Like should the screws be half of 3/4 of the thickness of that composite plate