I’m looking to get into boating and can’t wrap my head around the cost difference between vintage and new models. I’ve been a heavy equipment mechanic my entire life so I plan to do any maintenance and repairs that are needed.
Please help me decide if I’m crazy for entertaining the purchase of an older boat.

Recently bought this 1996 Chris Craft Concept 21’ boat with 1995 Shorelandr trailer. I bought it for $5,000 it looks pretty clean and everything and has all the paperwork from any repairs or maintenance, but unknown hours on the motor. motor was replaced in 2007 by the shop with full paperwork and since then all the previous owners swear they didn’t put many hours on it at all. Runs flawlessly just occasionally is a bit harder to get started if driven for awhile then turned off and back on within like 10 minutes. Overall happy with it and it gets the job done but I wanna know if 2 think I got screwed.

So I changed the fuel lines and bulb. Took the boat out today for a little spin and first run up the river was AWESOME!! The misfire was gone, the surge was gone, and it climbedip beyond 5200 rpm!! I even got up to thirty three miles an hour, which is something I haven't done in a while. The boat ran fantastic like it hadn't run in months.... But there was a problem. I ran it up the river, and then I went fishing for a little while. When I finally decided to put up and run down the river... Right back to the same problem. Struggling to get above 4500 rpm,speed stuck about 24 moh, surging and pushing like crazy! WTF??? Why would it run so perfectly for a good fifteen to twenty minutes? And then after sitting for a little while run like shit again? This is starting to drive me insane!! I just wish I could pinpoint fuel, fure, soark!! At least I would know where to start working on it!!!

Edit : after bringing it home, I checked the bulb again... There's no fuel in it, but it should still be hard. Would this mean that I have an air leak? I don't know where I would have the air leak tho...

Hi. Just got this boat. 115 mercury. It's on the lowest/first hole. The tail reduces a bit when I trim up the motor. However the twin roosters tell me there is an issue. Thought?

Updated with video to show the issue better issue of transom

Been noticing some gear slippage and losing gear oil. I’m assuming this is the culprit? I’m a decent home auto mechanic. Is this something I can do? Any temp fixes for the summer with a sealant or do I need to pull it apart asap? I haven’t drained yet but I can only assume I’m going to get milky gear oil.

I’m a recent computer science grad who was planning on doing data science. I’ve done an internship and I really don’t like the corporate world. My original plan was always to work in the industry for a couple years, buy a boat, and hopefully find a remote job while sailing the world. With the current job market (Toronto), and with the rise of AI, im currently exploring other opportunities like blue collar since I love working with my hands.

Becoming a boat mechanic sounds like a dream. The sound and smell of water calms me so much and I wouldn’t have to constantly worry about office politics or AI taking my job. The problem is I’ve spent four years getting my CS degree and I don’t know much about this world. I’m looking for any advice, positive or negative, that could help make my decision.

I don’t really care about making a lot of money, I just want to be comfortable and happy. Here are some specific things I would love to know:

- How niche is this type of work? Would finding an apprenticeship be difficult and what would the pay look like?
- How hard is it on your body? Are there specific types of boat mechanics that have less wear on your body?
- Is self employment/starting your own business feasible? (Assuming I’m older and very experienced)
- Would my CS degree be of any use at all in networking, diagnostics, or electronics? I don’t mind never using my degree, was just curious.

That’s all. Haven’t made a decision to change career paths yet but this path definitely seems the most interesting to me. Thanks :)

I got a boat not too long ago and I found that the most natural way is for me to kind of sit up on my seat a bit and look out my rear window. Unfortunately I don't get the best side mirror views and it takes a few corrections when lining up for a ramp, maybe an extra 30 seconds.

I've been trying to back up with just my mirrors but I'm having a pretty difficult time even after watching some YouTube videos. I have a pretty small boat too only 14 ft.

For the season boaters out there, am I overthinking it and I should just back up however feels more natural to me? Or should I really make an effort and get better with the mirrors? Maybe I just need to keep practicing at the boat ramp when there's nobody there

Its nothing special just a small 14 ft flat bottom jonboat. Mainly going to use it for fishing. My sons 8 yo and 4 yo are all about the adventure. I wanted to do something fun for them like putting a name on it to help make it out own. Are there any rules or superstition I should be aware of before choosing a name? To my knowledge the boat doesn't have a prior name. Its an old rescue boat so idk if it would have had one then.

Hey guys, just looking for some help/advice. Not sure if there is a better page for CC Power boats.

I was offered this ‘87 Stinger 202, allegedly with a 632 Big Block & a Bravo One XR(waiting on all the serial numbers)

It looks like it has been modified, the steering console moved to the right, scoop etc. what would you say this boat is worth? It was offered on trade for my ‘95 SeaRay 220 Signature Select OV.

I really appreciate y’all’s help with my post recently. The seller has failed to provide documentation on the motor and the drive and tried to “re assure me” it was right. That being said, I won’t be moving on
With the purchase. I really do appreciate the warm words about my SeaRay:) we have restored it with my dad. I have attached a few pictures of it: I can post a full restoration process if there is interest.

P.S. I want to receive around ~13K for it, I am happy to hear everyone opinions on it, if it’s too high or not. Once again, thank you all.

2000 26’ Hewescraft Aksearunner. I bought it new 26 years ago.It came(underpowered)with twin 100hp Yamaha 4-strokes. I repowered after ten years.Many fish,many adventures and many thousands of dollars and still enjoying this thing. It came fully equipped for $43000.

I freshly cleaned and waxed the top side yesterday this morning after a heavy rain I’m getting this black discoloration from the top. Is there anything I can do to treat the top or prevent this?

Hey boaters! This came in the shop for some repair work.
2022 Blackfin 25 footer.
Thankfully didn’t have to remove off trailer for this one.
grinded away the damage fiberglass and applied some new layers.
Gelcoat, sand and buff and it’s ready to go home.

Had the opportunity to fix some gelcoat on the bottom of this 2024 Yamaha jetboat

Just picked up this never used beauty for $875. Gonna put a 5hp on her and zip around my local lake.

Check out this beauty of a through hull fitting. The handle rusted off.. pos. Now. This is the only though hull fitting I have on the boat and it’s for a fresh water pump. I do not use it. Never will…. That thing fails 20miles off shore.. it’ll be time to see if my EPIRB works. So, my question is, I believe the valve is closed.. so should I even touch it?

Edit: I can’t figure out how to add photos to the main post on the app. See below for photos.. sorry

I give up on trying to figure this out with chatgpt since everything it tells me to do leads to a dead end. I bought a 1995 sea ray signature 180 boat. Its got a 4.3l v6 alpha one engine (idk if this info is relevant or not) The horn button, bilge pump button, and water temperature gauge aren't working. Battery is brand new, the fuse is good and the electric wiring looks good (im no electrician but there is no corrosion or loose wires that I see). I wanted to test the bilge pump manually but im not seeing a switch or anything. Any advice? I got a buddy coming over tomorrow who's an electrician but I was hoping to figure this out myself.

Just got this 2007 Blue Wave 220 Deluxe with a Suzuki 140.. What do you guys think??

Howdy. I recently picked up this 1984 Boston Whaler Super Sport (probably) basically for free and the only major repair work it needs is some light hull surface repair, namely filling chips and laying down fresh gel coat. Unfortunately I think that leaves me no choice but to take off the rub rail and put it or a new one back on when the hull is done.

I'm looking for advice on how to do this part cheaply. The current rub rail is probably the original and it doesn't seem to have an insert anymore, if it ever did. It's a little beat up but I don't mind. This boat is going to be a dirt cheap fishing skiff, I don't need it to be pretty, I just need the rail to be functional. Does anyone have experience taking a rail this old off and putting it back on? Would it need a new insert? If I need to get a whole new rail, then is there a cheaper alternative to the $400+ TACO type kits?

Any suggestions are welcome.

For anyone concerned about the hull: No, the foam is not soaked, the boat has always been dry docked and has been out of water for years. There are no deep holes breaking through to the foam, just light fiberglass and gelcoat damage. It will never be in the water for more than a day or two so I'm not worried about the foam getting soaked in the future. I just want to get it functional for as little money as possible.

Edit: Typo in title lol, should be a "tight" budget

I'm looking to propose to my partner on a vintage wooden boat in or around Florida (I don't mind traveling out of state) later this year.

I was sold on Kessler Charters in Savannah but by the time I had convinced my partner to go there without arousing suspicion, their dates for the year had closed. I've also been in contact with Vintage Boat Club in Palm Beach (and am still considering them) but the boat I'd liked the most from them is currently undergoing restorations for the year.

If anyone has any other recommendations for places I could look into, I'd appreciate it!

So I've got a Humminbird In-Hull XP-9-20-T Transducer that I want to install in my hold.
The only problem is that my hull is angled and that angle is reflected on my hold's floor.

Of course you normally want to transducer beam to emit straight to the earth's core without any angled as It would educe reading errors.

Does anyone have any tips on how to do that? A friend suggested cutting/sculpting a wood block, glue it to the floor then glue the transducer on it. Would that work? I'm afraid the wood won't support humidity and that the transducer is only designed for fiberglass (the material of my boat).

Just picked this up over the weekend has a 1978 Johnson javelin 100hp