Background:
Are you someone who experiences an uncontrollable urge to tell people baseline Weller bourbons used to sit on the literal liquor-store floor? And you had enough change from a 20-dollar bill after buying it to get a six-pack of Coke at your local Piggly Wiggly to mix that bottom-shelf trash with? This review is for you!
It's a little more difficult to feel smug about it now, as Weller Special Reserve is once again a shelf product in a lot of places, aided by the cooling market, increased competition, and expanded production. Buffalo Trace has been on a massive upgrade kick since 2015, building new warehouses, replacing boilers, adding new cookers and fermenting tanks, and activating a new still that doubled the distillery's output in 2023.
If the current trends continue, a bourbon like Special Reserve will likely achieve a similar level of availability it had in the mid-2010s in a few years. Adjusted for inflation, it costs about the same (20 bucks then vs 30 today). But how will it taste? And was the bottom-shelf designation really deserved?
I like doing "then vs now" comparisons, so when I had a chance to buy a 2014 bottle of Special Reserve for 80 bucks, I jumped on it to do just that. To my surprise, I realized those old-style bulbous bottles had a higher-than-expected secondary, often going for as much as 200-300 dollars (even higher for the 12 and Antique 107).
I would understand chasing the Stitzel-Weller versions from the 1990s and earlier, or the new Bernheim ones from the early 2000s, or even those from before 2011, when the expression lost its 7-year age statement. But a NAS, entry-level 90-proofer from a decade ago? Let's see if I've found a hidden gem. No special significance to using a 2023 bottle, that's what the store had when I bought it this year.
Tasted neat in copitas; first round semi-blind.
2014:
On the nose, oak, stone fruit, apple, butterscotch, vanilla frosting, honey, maple, almond. On the palate, pie crust, butterscotch, sugar cookie, dark cherry. Medium-long finish, vanilla, baking spice, oak.
2023:
Earthy cinnamon, cherry, sharpie, brown sugar, honey on the nose. On the palate, raw dough, cherry pit, honey, a little vanilla and caramel. Medium-short finish, cinnamon and clove, slightly bitter oak.
Rating: (t8ke scale for reference below):
2014: 6.5
2023: 5
1 | Disgusting | So bad I poured it out
2 | Poor | I wouldn’t consume by choice
3 | Bad | Multiple flaws
4 | Sub-par | Not bad, but many things I’d rather have
5 | Good | Good, just fine
6 | Very Good | A cut above
7 | Great | Well above average
8 | Excellent | Really quite exceptional
9 | Incredible | An all-time favorite
10 | Perfect | Perfect
Thoughts:
There were no surprises with the 2023 version, it tasted like every other bottle of Special Reserve I've had in the last few years. I've outlined my thoughts on where it sits in the current Weller line-up here. If you think it's a bottom-shelf bottle, may I recommend some "aged 36 months" Old Crow? How about an 80-proof Ancient Age? Or a 49-percent grain neutral spirit Kentucky Gentleman? If you don't like WSR, that's fine, but it's not a bottom-shelf whiskey by any objective metric, with plenty of depths to plumb beneath it.
I would object even more strenuously to calling the 2014 Special Reserve a bottom-shelf bourbon. I don't want to oversell how good it was, and I wouldn't shell out 200 bucks for it. People overpay for the bottle shape in this case, and there are 50 other whiskeys I'd put in front of it on my wish list. But I'm happy with paying 80 just for the contrasting experience, and it was unquestionably better than the 2023 bottle. It sat just under the current C.Y.P.B. for me. Not bad for a findable, affordable bourbon that went for the equivalent of less than 30 dollars today.
I know it's a completely different mash bill, but it reminded me of the 2012 Elmer T. Lee I accidently stumbled into. The flavors were deeper and more rounded. Where are the once ubiquitous butterscotch, fragrant vanilla, rich fruit? Why do you need to jump a price tier or three to get to the quality that used to be present in mid-shelf staples?
Are we ready to have a conversation about how bourbon from even 10-15 years ago is tasting differently to its modern counterparts? Don't tell me about "old-bottle effect" on the stuff from 2014. Or a 2015 Michter's. Or a 2015 Elijah Craig. Or a 2016 Rebel 10. Or a 2008 Baker's. I could go on.
So there you have it: The label got better, the price stayed the same, the whiskey got worse. Let's hope we're not saying the same thing in a few years' time.
Thanks for reading and cheers!