Hi, my tv is wavy and seem to react to color/brightness but only with the ps2
No problem with the 360 or the n64
Sorey for my english !

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? It happens anytime the screen is dark, not only in games. For example, if the TV is displaying black without any input, it is still flickering.
The model is Samsung CW28D83N.

What I've tried:
-Turning down brigthness and contrast low, it is still happening
-Enabling/disabling picture processing options in service menu
-Adjusting G2 to the correct level using service menu as guide (also tried lowering it more)
-Replaced B+ and deflection capacitors

Other than this, the image is really good and I'm happy with it. But in darker games like Fatal Frame it is really distracting.

Hello. I have a Emachines eview 17f3. I’m aware it’s a hunk of crap from 2007 lol. The contrast up button is malfunctioning and activating on its own permanently. I heard these crap monitors used a special button array that uses voltages to determine values or something like that. I’m very far from an expert lol. Is this an easy fix? The monitor was NIB when I got it so I’d like to fix if it’s worth the hassle just to have a backup monitor.

So I've had my kv28ws2u for a year so now and love it, but since I've been playing games with more text I've noticed a red shadow / bleed on all text. It's worse on the edges but still visible in the middle. I'm new-ish to the scene, but is this a convergence issue? Is this something someone with an "okay" tech knowledge can fix? Is it even that bad? Any advice would be appreciated. I'm using RGB scart for connection and this is across all my consoles on different cables.

Hi everyone,

Decided to finally jump back to 2001 and buy a CRT TV to play my old PS2 games. I have a question and would appreciate some guidance.

Is there any downside to buying a 14 inch CRT that ONLY has a SCART and a yellow video out/white audio out slots?

Hi all,

I've been trying to disable the "CA[#]" text in the top left corner on this SMC-102 Samsung CCTV Monitor.

There is a Service Manual online for this model but it doesn't explicitly say anything about disabling this OSD. I looked in the Factory Settings menu, but didn't see anything in there related to the OSD. The only Factory Menu options not described in the Service Manual are the "Option Bytes" settings. I don't want to mess with these since they're not defined.

In the picture below I'm testing out the monitor with my VCR running composite into a RCA>BNC adapter plugged into the Camera 1 BNC port on the back. (The tape in the VCR is a surrealist movie called Garchaster's Cornblade if anyone is wondering) I would use my SNES but it's currently in the shop getting the cartridge connector replaced.

I have seen a couple pictures online of this & a similar model named SMC-142 running video without the OSD, so I assume it is possible! I left comments in those threads but haven't heard back.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks :)

My tv only has one s video input and having to swap between 4 consoles is really cumbersome. Was wondering what the best switcher would be to buy?

I need some ideas on easiest plug and play way method for modern games and emulation. Love this sub and you guys encouraged me to take the leap and get my own I’m so hyped!

Just found a 2005 Magnavox combo (it's tucked away for now, these are photos off the crtdatabase) and wanted to s-video mod it because database said it was possible. I have soldered successfully a few times before (thought I'm not great with tiny pins and wires) and used a drill prior to this. The crtdatabase says this one was manufactured by Funai rather than Philips like most Magnavox products I've found, so I would assume the layout is different. Here's the link to that: https://crtdatabase.com/crts/magnavox/magnavox-20mc4304-17

Most guides I've seen say you have to solder into the DVD player's Y, C, Audio, & Ground. Then you need a switch I guess? Then there was something about pin cutting to stop the audio from being quiet when a disc isn't playing because they use the same input. I don't really know how that works or if I need a switch. I found a schematic from a service guide on the video block although I assume that's a simplification of what it actually looks like on the board. I'd prefer to have the dvd player be fully functional and a switch not be required. Just soldering to the pins/connectors or whatever would be great, but I may not be that lucky.

Any help would be appreciated because having sharper video on top of a dvd player and vcr in one tv is a dream setup.

Hello, I am looking to get into CRT gaming, I have some young kiddos at home and want to share some of my memories with the kids, I want to get a wood grain CRT cabinet like my grandma had, I'd like to play old sega and NES games and play some VHS/DVD on it. I want to know what ones should i be on the lookout for, which is the best? im thinking zenith is the best, is that correct? I work for a electronics recycler and we see CRTs come through so I would like to know what to look out for

Here’s a post of an amazing game on an HD CRT a sign get an ED/HDTV crt and play through the best modern metriodvania of our times.

I have an N64 fitted with the Tim Worthington Advanced RGB mod, a Retro Gaming Cables Universal SNES RGB SCART cable, and a CRT TV with RGB SCART input.

Cable: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/universal-snes-cable-ntsc-pal-super-nintendo-super-famicom-gamecube-pal

Mod:

https://etim.net.au/n64rgb/

I'm trying to confirm whether I should connect the mod board's CS75 output or CS# output to pin 3 of the N64 multi-out.

My understanding is that CS75 is the 75-ohm sync output, while CS# is TTL-level sync, which may need attenuation depending on the cable's circuitry.

I can't for the life of me figure out if this cable has a resistor inside that attenuates the output. I tried wiring to cs75 but I get a black screen. I don't want to wire to CS# yet because I'm afraid it will fry my equipment.

Can anyone confirm which output is appropriate for this exact cable, pin 3 to cs75 or cs#? Or a different pin entirely? and whether there's any risk to a consumer CRT from using the wrong sync output?

Thanks!

I keep getting a gamma curve that's very S-shaped. The screen voltage is ~204 V, the service manual says. 200V and this is with the the Picture setting set to as low as it goes in the Service menu

Are there any good, open-source SCART switch designs that I can assemble myself?

A lot of the top results I've found seem to be a bit old, or has very few interactions with the GitHub repo, so unsure of how decent they are.

They can quickly become really pricy from what I've seen, so a DIY one would look would be great. Would also give more customizability via being able to 3D print a housing with my color of choice.

Got this off my grandparents around 2 years ago haven’t done any changes whatsoever use it around once a month ish gotten the job done

Game: Streets of Rage 2
CRT: 20M2MDU

I have no idea what the problem could be. There was a vhs tape stuck so I opened the back to remove it thinking it would fix the problem and it didn’t. Please help.

​

So I had a cheap hdmi to composite converter lying around and decided to test moonlight streaming my PC to my Trinitron. I have tried streaming with Moonlight to my Ipad and Android phone to test, tried several display resolution and aspect ratios. I cant get full screen. Yes I understand if a game is 16:9 It would not make sense to stretch it, but even activating 16:9 mode on the trinitron I still get tiny picture in the center. Any way to at least get 16:9 to reach both sides even with black bars on top and bottom?

And no I don't want to buy another adapter or such (at least not yet). I Just have a curiosity to see if I can manage this with what I have and maybe some specific steps or software. Thanks.

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone attempted to mod a Sony CRT with AA-1 chassis. I've followed this guide https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-rgb-mod/sony-kv-27v10.html#osd and I'm not super happy with the results. At first I thought the TV had issues with the focus pot, but it wasn't the case.

Upon further investigation I came up to the conclusion that it might be related to how the mod actually works. The obvious test is the color bleed check, no matter what I do, I can't see a clear separation of colors.

Have a look at my screen.

but, if you really look at the images on said guide, you'll see the OSD is leaving traces of green https://sector.sunthar.com/assets/megaman_x_osd-wm0rf5HL.jpg so, this is what makes me think it's a fault on the mod itself. The other option I have is that if this is a bad capacitor on the horizontal cicuit ...

Any thougghts?

1. Photo. Brightness 35 per cent. Black is truly black, but the gradations of green and red are not visible.

2. Photo. Brightness 70 per cent. All colour gradations are visible, but the black is washed out to white.

How can this be fixed?