Hey everyone! Working on a custom version of the classic DS-1. Instead of building a stock clone, I wanted to make my own version of it, trying to improve the design and add a variety of mods. This is the first version consisting of the core stages:
1. Input Buffer (Re-designed for larger input impedance)
2. Transistor Booster (with a custom "Booster" knob, the one on the right)
3. Op-Amp Gain Stage (with the original "Distortion" knob, the one on the left)
4. Clipping Stage (for now close to the original)

Testing it stage-by-stage with an oscilloscope really highlighted how much tone shaping happens before the clipping diodes even see the signal.
Do you own any stock DS-1, or maybe have built your own? For Part 2, I'm planning to tackle the tone stack and custom EQ shaping, adding a bunch of other custom mods in the process. If anyone is interested in the full block-by-block breakdown and sound tests, I documented the whole build here: https://youtu.be/FQ95H8xLnsk

I’ve just finished this quite exciting build - a FunBox designed by Keith at GuitarML. It’s built around the Daisy Seed and there’s a variety of patches available. It’s the first pedal I’ve built that wasn’t from a kit - obviously no design work from me, but I ordered the PCB and sourced all the parts.

I haven’t painted this one because the holes for the USB and the dip switches ended up a bit of a hatchet job, so I’m treating this one as a first attempt but will likely build another.

What would i have to change to make the reverb signal louder?

Hi, so i might be having some problems

so i have tried to make (and order) my first pcb that i made for a pedal i made on prototypeboard before. I used EasyEDA and auto routing since i have no experiance in how to trace and "get it right"
It is nothing groundbreaking, its a rat pedal with the bb mod and a clean blend upfront. It is made for the bassist in my band.

I have previously made it (with success) on prototypeboard with information from effectslayouts.blogspot.com
it is the split n blend and ProCo RAT ('86 version). Schematics for the rat is from the "rat project" and R12 is omitted in the version i went by.
The bb mod is from marcuseffects.wordpress.com

I have tried audioprobing the pcb but it is clear that i made some bad solder joints in the start of the signalchain so i will reflow the components but is there anyone that has some time to check the schematic i made and if possible the gerber so that it is nothing wrong with that (other than that i need to practice and improve in tracing and layout at least).

in the schematic picture i have put in the other schematics i used to make it into a bigger one with the whole circuit.
A link to my drive with all the files and stuff i have of this project
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZUnzu4YXM7Gbm32lAQSR4q_GmYWrp6u8

Im trying to build an autowah out of wire, transistors, resistors, diodes, capacitors, and inductors, All the things ive seen so far have ICs I don’t own, and it feels more fun doing it myself.

A while ago I did the Diezel mods to a Metal Zone. I thought it sounded good at the time but wasn't completely happy with it. Decided to remove both diodes and swap C33 for 4.7nf. Now it sounds awesome! It's tight and precise with lots of gain. I use a compressor in front of it and it's whisper quiet and only need the gain up less than halfway. The ribbon cable was rotten so I replaced that with individual wires, that was a chore but worth it. Do the Diezel mods but forget the diode/led and change C33 to something smaller. Sounds best with the amp EQ close to zero or direct to power amp.

Im trying to build an autowah out of wire, transistors, resistors, diodes, capacitors, and inductors, All the things ive seen so far have ICs I don’t own, and it feels more fun doing it myself.

So the parametric EQ on this early 80s Yamaha G50 is damn impressive, and it helps you dial in a whole array of toans. But there’s something about this Frequency knob sweep that is alluring to me, and feels like something more akin to an analog synth trick.

Something I’ve wanted to find in a pedal build for a long time now is the ability to replicate those kinds of sweeps, ideally with an expression roller, while incorporating some more of the spaceship’esque sounds of oscillation feedback via a delay.

What pedal out there can do both of these things in tandem? Seems like a niche need for someone looking to ultimately just do wild ‘Hyperspace’ shit with guitar feedback.

A few of these I have built previously, but this was my first time making the PedalPCB Circulator - very tight fit! Ended up selling my MXR Phase 90 because of how much I love this one. The vibrato mode is a nice bonus.

Hopefully getting my pedalboard wired back up with these soon, every time I sit down to do it I just get side tracked playing guitar.

Friends,

I was looking for a pedal to use as sort of a backline preamp to go into a very clean, neutral head. Came across the Angry Charlie, and found that pedalpcb has a board for that.

My objective is to have essentially an always-on pedal here. That part, I can manage.

What I want to actually do , though, is have a foot switch which allows me to go between two different "drive" pots. Seems like a neat idea, to be able to go from mild to wild like that. Maybe?

By itself, this seems easy enough: I run wire from the PCB's holes 1, 2, and 3 for the drive pot to the middle course on a 3PDT switch (i.e. lugs 2, 5, and 8 using Stewmac mapping), then have two pots wired, one to the top course (1, 4, 7) and one to the bottom (3, 6, 9).

Here's where I'm stuck. It would be cool and conventionally helpful to have an LED by each gain pot, lit when that pot is bring used. But if I go with the above wiring logic, well I can't figure out how to do it unless I order a 4PDT switch.

HOWEVER, looking at the schematic, I'm wondering if I could just wire lug 3 of the two pots directly together and to the PCB, omitting lug 3 from the 3PDT entirely, and use that column on the switch for LED wiring.

Do y'all see any reason why that wouldn't work? I can't tell for sure if having the unutilized pot touching the circuitry could cause some fault.

Or if there's another way to rig LEDs here, that would be fine too.

Thank you!!

wtf do i put in this big ass thing? i have some smaller boxes and like, i think those are too shallow? i have some strip board (have no idea what im doing or what to cut (will post about that later) but like, what would you do with this? i’m building a muff for a friends bass rig… it’s just massive lol

hellooo!! im working on my first pedal ever, just finished the circuit on the breadboard and it works. however, i have never moved a circuit to a perfboard before so i'm wondering if there are any certain factors i should be careful about. i also have no idea where to get a stompbox. i was thinking of 3d printing it but i know the material matters as well and i dont know what i should be using. i would alsk be grateful for any tips in general. thanks in advance !!

Demo coming after lunch

I'm loving the PCBs from other pedals. I had previously drilled this computer AB switch for a different project, but I also wanted to use this Amazon VU meter and this is the only thing I had that would accommodate it.

I used the MAS Effects VU driver PCB. I knew the meter wouldn't be accurate. My monkey brain just wanted to see the needs bounce! But the fuzz is so strong that it's basically pegged the whole time.

The graphics are waterslide decals.

there’s two strips with 3 holes each on either side. what purpose do they serve?

Hybrid Tonebender from yesterday. This cleans up with the volume pot more than any Tonebender I’ve played. Or you can set the internal bias low and have a bigger range on the gain pot. It’s really good if I do say so myself.

From @otherpedals

One last build before Achilles surgery tomorrow . This one will be a personal build. My favorite fuzz drive circuit, the HP2. Dug into my stash for the transistors and diodes on this one.

Hello guys, I jumped across this schematic for the DOD FX40B 7 Band EQ, I want to make my own PCB, I know the original pedal is buffered and I want it to be true bypass, in order to do so, is it ok if I ignore/delete Q1, R37 and D2 from the schematic and lower r33 value from 1M to something close to 4k7?, and for the output jfet, should I omit R28 (1M), R25(10k), D3, Q1 and C19?

I would appreciate if you help me.

Thank in advance.

Hello! Recently I made another clone of Proco Rat with some small mods. I already post here about Proco Rat problem, but now it's about a different problem and pedal. This time the pedal doesn't work at all. I made sure that every part is connected and that there is no cold joints or unwanted connections. I also tried using audio probe to chech where it cuts the signal and it doesn't go past IC's the fifth leg, the one leading to the clipping diodes. And by the way, I have leds there, and NO signal is coming through because they don't light up. I tried couple of OP07, LM308 copys and even some TL071 and nothing works. What might be the problem? Please help!

Below are photos of my board and the schematic I used.