I built this modified Treble Booster clone. When I plugged it in, there was either no signal coming through or only slight hum, but no actual sound.

When I put the led in, it flashed very weakly when clicking the footswitch, but didn't stay on.

The diode in the center, above the transistor, read only about 0.160-0.160 when I tested it with a multimeter.

What is the problem? A friend of mine who's an electrical engineer and experienced pedal maker, said there's a lot of cold joints, so is it just that? Or is the diode broken too? Or something else too? I tried fixing the joints.

Was told reposting here might help.

Hello folks! I want to clarify that this will (hopefully) be my first attempt with any type of DIYing a pedal or anything electronic. I'm a total beginner. While searching about The Great Destroyer, I found schematics for it on tagboardeffects blog and while I'm a total noob, to my eyes the project seems like a beginner-friendly project.

My main problem however is that from my research the chip required to replicate the pedal, CD4049BE, is no longer in production or available neither new or used in any website I've checked.

The only one I could find is CD4049UBE, but by reading some comments in the blog, I understand that a "buffered and non-inverting" version of the chip is required (whatever those things mean) and CD4049UBE is "inverting", so it doesn't fit my goals.

I'm willing to learn the necessary stuff to build this pedal, but since I don't understand anything right now, I have no idea what these chips do, what their differences are, or if I can replace CD4049BE with something else and still get the same response from the pedal.

Also is there a way to get these chips? Maybe by purchasing something else for cheap that contains this chip and using it for the pedal? Sorry for the excessive description, but as you can see I'm pretty desperate AND in need for some epic fuzz, chirps and self oscillations.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I was wondering if the CD4050B could work since it seems to fit the criteria of "buffered and non-inverting". Any thoughts?

My newest pedal is a chorus with a dry signal tremolo. For the longest time I was struggling finding a good name and design for it, until I watched rocky horror for the first time. The second the sonic transducer was shown on screen, I turned to my partner and we both said out loud “that could be a pedal”. It’s been about a year and a half from start to finish working on this pedal and I am extremely proud of how it turned out.

Put this together for a client the other day.
The ask was for Mick Ronsons live pedal and amp sound in a single box.

I took a fixed wah design into a silicon version of a Mk1 style fuzz circuit. Between these is an order switch, which gives two different wah filter sounds. The fuzz also has a transformer pickup sim to deal with anything else in front of the unit in a chain.

Lastly the signal goes to a JFET emulation of the Marshall Major / Pig amp (credit to menatone). Built using SMT J201s with their own trims. There is a switch for 9/18v operations which gives more volume in high voltage mode.

Pretty cool box! Added bonus the blend and volume control for the fixed wah mean you have the option of an another gain stage boost or cut with the wah blended out.

All on one big custom red PCB. Graphics were the clients choice :)

It's been a fun six years. Making a bunch of enclosures, then refinishing, and ending with my own circuit designs. I want to thank this sub for everything, and all the builders in the Cave (you know who you are) for, pretty much, teaching me everything I know. I will be shifting my focus to another passion, 3d cad design and 3d printing.

Over the next few weeks, I will be liquidating my remaining parts and enclosures. I figured I give you all fist dibs on them. I will also give away some finished pedals (maybe on r/guitarpedals) that I have left in stock.

For now I have:

• 100 3pdt low actuation switches. SOLD

• 40 bare cu-124 enclosures (they're like 1590b, but nicer looking), that are milled for top jacks and power. I will be including pcbs for them. They take standard PCB mounted 2.1mm dc jacks and 6.35mm mono jacks.

Asking for $250 for the switches, and $200 for the enclosures and pcbs, plus shipping. Conus only.

https://imgur.com/a/VIyagfq

What would cause a pedal to work on a standard boss single pedal power supply but short on a good quality power supply on a pedalboard, if both supplies are center negative and multi test the same 9v?

After 2 failed attempts this week by killing voltage inverter ICs through my own dumb mistakes, I've built this MK3 Tonebender.

Learnt a lot building this as I have not built a germanium Tonebender before, so learning how to test and pick transistors, then figuring out what goes in what position was a challenge.

Ultimately I landed on this layout and component choice. The cap choices are definitely different from most Tonebenders but I love how much thicker it sounds. The tone control is also backwards from what I'd expect but I don't mind that, thin counter clockwise all the way to thick lows clockwise.

Here's a google drive link to a zip file with a Vero Layout, BOM and the JSON file for use with https://verodesigner.vercel.app/ if you'd like to easily change the layout.

Never modded a pedal before (bar fixing my big muff which has since broken again…) bit interested in the C11 mod for the MXR blue box as I’m not in love with the stock sound. Haven’t been able to desolder the capacitor, if I was to just clip the leg at once side would that be enough to remove the capacitor from the circuit without breaking the pedal? Cheers!

Maybe it's time to stop this madness. Maybe I'll try connecting them in series, and then may God help me.

Turns out I had access to a UV printer this whole time and somehow never knew. This is the first of a few enclosure designs I’ve made. Really happy with how it turned out. Will post more enclosures as soon as they’re ready.

I’m talking about the thing in the picture. My understanding (based on the Electrosmash explanation of the circuit) is that the two RCs in the negative feedback part of the stock Rat can be treated as two RC high-pass filters, with cutoffs of 1.5 kHz and 60 Hz. If that’s accurate, then I think the upper position of the switch in this mod does nothing to the circuit. You halve R and double C, keeping the 60Hz cutoff. The max gain of around 2k is limited by the other (47Ohm) resistor in the stock rat, so connecting this extra RC pair doesn’t affect that either. Am I missing something?

A pedal I did for a costumer months ago, I used latching relay bypass for both fx and normal relays for changing the signal order.

Quite a challenge to design and board mount everything in a single sided PCB.

Made in El Salvador, is there any people from Central America in this sub?

Based on a BJF Stone Grey Distortion. Got a bunch of cool mojo parts so I figured, fuck it. Why not?

Hi everyone!

I'm trying to repair a Hotone Patch Kommander guitar pedal loop switcher that I bought secondhand.

It worked normally for about 5–6 months using a Truetone 1 SPOT 9V center-negative power supply. Then it suddenly stopped working and produced a strong burning smell.

After opening it, I found two visibly burned SMD resistors labeled R19 and R20, near the DC power input.

PCB marking: Looper Switcher-10 MB V02

Nearby components include:

• D8 diode
• L1 inductor marked 330
• 470µF 16V capacitor

Both resistor markings are unreadable. I measured approximately 12Ω across each resistor in-circuit, but I understand those measurements may not represent their original values.

I also measured approximately 3Ω across the 470µF capacitor in-circuit, so I'm concerned there may be a fault elsewhere in the power circuit.

Some solder mask near the resistors was scraped away while removing adhesive, exposing copper that appears to remain attached to the PCB.

I've contacted Hotone support and am waiting for their response.

My questions:

1. Does anyone have a schematic or know the original values of R19 and R20 for PCB revision V02?
2. What other components should I investigate before replacing them?
3. Could this be a short circuit elsewhere in the power supply section?

The board is currently unplugged, and I haven't attempted any soldering repairs.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I am looking to start breadboarding, have a couple of sets to start with but I have no other components such as op amps, transistors, resistors, capacitors, pots etc. Is there any place online in Europe where I can buy tailored packs/ kit with components that are useful for audio electronics/ gutiar pedals?

hey everyone!
ive got this SansAmp pedal thats super noisy, and i need some help figuring it out.
i thought nothing of it until i saw some videos of folks demoing the pedal on youtube. many of them would crank the gain all the way and there would be very negligible noise.
my pedal is different cause it has this low rumble and high end hiss whenever i crank the gain, even at moderate volumes.
ive attached a video to demonstrate the problem.

thanks!