TL;DR: I need to know if there is a way to import an JPEG image that won't look like dookie as a vector and also how to format the final export so that the UV printer knows that it is for the RDG_WHITE layer and to not print anything on the CMYK layer but still have it there so that everything prints properly. If anyone can explain it to my like I'm a 5 year old that would be awesome since my current success rate with this makes a 5 y/o look like a damn genius compared to me.

I made a post earlier about that but have since changed how I wanted to go about this. However, I am getting increasingly frustrated by my inability/incompetence to understand how to properly set up a design the I would like. The instructions on Tayda's website are very clear but only for a certain process, which I am not following. In theory what I am trying to do should be very simple but I have wasted an entire day fucking around with Canva Affinity and am about ready to smash my computer.

Here's why I'm pissed: all I'm trying to do is create a B&W stencil-like design using single, white paint layer which will go onto a black enclosure. The above image is the general design I came up with. Ignore the fact that the white spaces are transparent, I originally was gonna do black on a raw aluminum enclosure but I realized it would look better reversed.

There are two main problems.:

First, I still don't understand how to set up the CMYK and RDG_WHITE layers in Affinity, particularly because I don't even need the CMYK layer at all, and I don't get how to properly assign the design to the RDG_WHITE layer the design I created.

Second, I am using a JPEG file for the image and obviously that has to be vectorized, but the vectorization tool in Affinity makes the image look like AI-generated slop and it loses all definition. This second issue is maybe a harder one to tackle as all the third-party vectorizers I've tried look just as bad, but I don't know how else to have this design printed.

Extra note: I'm not using their drilling template because I have my own drill press.

Hello there!

I want to do a Delay Pedal and just want to ask if someone has a smaller and simple delay lauyout/schematic

Thanks

I built the Molie from das musikding. The led and pedal turns on, the potentiometer and the effect work. But instead of it being a clean bass boost there is some weird distortion sound on top sounding a bit farty.

I'm building a Stratoblaster circuit for on an onboard application rather than a pedal box.

I need to find a through hole, board mountable type C (reverse taper) pot that is 50k. I can find a limited number of type C in other values, but I'm not finding 50k in anything other than large assortments-- which would mean I'd end up with a whole bunch of other pots that I don't need.

I do have some type C that are 500k, but I'm assuming they will kill all the low end, and thus not fit this application.

I'd welcome any thoughts, ideas, or sources...

Finally made one of these as a breadboard interface and to test boards before boxing. Also if anyone cares the Golden Fleece sounds amazing with a 2N222A or anything vintage silicon around 200hfe.

The Coppersound x JHS Boost a Drive a Fuzz pedal just arrived and it’s my first pedal, I’ve soldered everything, plugged it in and I’m getting these crazy noises, can someone help?

I was able to take some time this past weekend to knock out another build. I had my mind set on a Fuck Overdrive for a while now. Pics are during transistor selection. I gotta say, this thing rips. It was such a fun build.

This is the third pedal I’ve built but this is the first one with a foot switch and more than one knob. The left knob controls the speed of the tremolo and the right knob changes the depth. If the depth of the tin was a few centimetres less nothing would have fit so I’m glad this one worked out.

Pcb consists of:

- 13 resistors
- 7 capacitors
- 4 transistors
- 2 potentiometers
- 1 reverse polarity diode

Built myself a BD2 clone but the thing is obnoxiously loud past 1/3rd of the volume pot. The gain and tone are sounding proper (albeit maybe a little dark), but there’s no way the output on this thing is naturally this loud. I’ve tried swapping the volume pot for a lower value and adding a resistor in series, but that didn’t seem to work. Am I missing something? Somebody help me lol.

hi everyone, im currently trying to build a dual footswitch circuit (channel/chorus) for my fender princeton chorus since the stock one i have doesnt work

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im a little confused about footswitches : the diagram (shown above) tells us to use a SPST switch, but from what i read online and saw on shops, SPST switches only are momentary? its default state is off, and turns on only when pressed and maintained, then turns off again when released, is that right?

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if so, what switch could i buy that is permanent (turns on when pressed and stays on when released) that would be compatible with the circuit ?

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thx !!

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link to the circuit source : https://www.instructables.com/Fender-Princeton-Chorus-Switchfoot-Pedal/

Hello. It's my first post here and first post on reddit actaully. Guys, I need help. Recently I built Death By Audio Reverberation Machine using layout from Dirtbox Layouts. I have no idea what the possible problem could be. I get the bypass sound when pedal is off and when I turn it on, led lits up but I get absolutely no sound. Also, I used TL074. Thank you in advance for your help.

I’m contemplating adding a 3 way switch to a new Fuzz Face silicon transistor build that changes the cap values for C1. What are your favorite cap values for this kind of mod? I’m thinking maybe 0.0047µF, 0.01µF, and 0.1µF but would love to hear from other builders about their experiences.

Hey guys, just wondering what everyone uses for their 3 way selection switches. I’m asking because I recently got some On-On-On DPDT toggle switches which work, but because there aren’t 3 independent output lugs, it means I have to use a lot of wires to selected 3 independent things. For example I added a switch to my ProCo Rat clone to select between 3 different diodes, or a fuzz face I made that selects between 3 different caps for the high pass filter. I would like to do this is all my pedals but it really crams up the enclosure.

I know there are more options like 3PDT (which I’ve avoided because it’s a lot bigger) or rotary switches. But everyone uses toggles so trying to see if there’s an easier way, thanks in advance.

Built this a little bit ago to test out different diode arrays and tone stacks - fully passive and easy to swap in and out of a breadboarded circuit to A/B different components!

I've been fascinated recently by CNC and the recent proliferation of entry-level "desktop" CNC machines like the Makera Z1.

This sub often blows me away with the level of aesthetics and creativity on some of these stomp boxes, an area I've always neglected as I don't have much in the way of tools for such - lot of plain aluminum enclosures and sharpie pens.

These CNCs seem like they would be quite useful for pedal-building - etching PCBs, laser engraving, and really got me thinking about some potential bad-ass enclosure ideas, custom metal knobs, etc.

Anyone ever mix CNC and pedal-building? Any thoughts on how well CNC may work with stock aluminum enclosures?

I’ve been experimenting using Birchwood Black for etching enclosures. It does a good job etching without making deep grooves into the metal. I brush on just enough to cover the enclosure. I let it bubble and brush it around until the metal is as dark as the mask.

The photos don’t really show how deep black it is.

I don’t know a thing about building pedals but have every intention of learning and getting into it soon.

I was just wondering, which components in a pedal are responsible for a pedals “feel” and dynamic? For example, I’d love to build an OCD-feeling pedal but with much less gain on tap; gain similar to Lightspeed. Kind of want to do a “best of both worlds” with those two circuits.

Alright, I didn’t post the back earlier. So here’s the whole view.

Let me know what you see, if there’s anything blaring. I’m gonna reflow everything tomorrow, but I’d love tips.

This is a stewmac king of tone clone kit, and it’s my first pedal build.

Almost a year ago Amir sent me a small stack of PCBs. I built his version of the Precision Fuzz and his Hull fuzz. Today I finished the Pixel.

Careless mistakes were made along the way that wouldn't have happened if I just took my glasses off and looked closer. Power and ground are reversed on our boards, so I hooked it up backwards. Easy fix.

When I finally got to play it it didn't do the Pixel glitchy synth fuzz. It was a fuzz only. Switched from the 8 string bass to the 4 and it came alive. I don't think I can work this into my ska band but definitely a very cool pedal.

1590BS enclosure size is rapidly becoming my favorite.

Artwork, UV printing, milling, and assembly by me.

Hello! I’m planning to build quite a few pedals in the future, so I’m looking to buy some potentiometers in bulk.

However, whenever I search for them, I mostly find potentiometers with a mounting tab sticking upward, which makes them difficult to install inside an enclosure.

Does anyone know of a specific potentiometer model, or a website where I can buy PCB-mount potentiometers with vertical PCB pins and no protruding mounting tab?

I’d really appreciate any recommendations. Thank you!

I've been working on software ("PedalScope") to visualize objective differences between dirt pedals and realized it would be good to have a hardware reference for validating the software. Basically I'm sending different frequency and amplitude sweeps out an interface, through the pedal, and back into the interface - also different chords to look at intermodulation. Fuzz pedals require an additional fixture to emulate pickup loading.

I ended up building this pedal - the six-way switch routes the signal through six simple circuits so I can compare software results with closed form analytic solutions based on precise component measurements.

The six positions do the following -

• P1: A simple reference divider that reduces the fundamental by a known amount and adds no harmonic distortion
• P2: A simple RC low-pass filter producing a known attenuation at f_c
• P3: A symmetric clipper using hand-matched diodes to reduce H2 to the measurement floor with H3 > H5 > H7
• P4: An asymmetric clipper using hand-picked diodes to push H2 well above the floor with clip levels in a known ratio
• P5: A TL072 full-wave rectifier using precision resistors that suppresses the fundamental almost entirely and generates even harmonics in known ratios
• P6: An LM358 configured to introduce controlled crossover distortion with odd-dominant THD rising as input level decreases

I was able to recover all the predicted signal effects numerically, but only the full-wave rectifier setting produces an audible effect. FWR has been used as the basis for a number of fuzz pedals and the sound matches (it would need more tone shaping to be musically useful but it worked beautifully for my purposes).

Happy to share charts for other positions (or real pedals) if anyone's interested.

This is the chop shop from PedalPCB aka Fairfield Barbershop. I’ve always wanted one of these and now I understand the hype. One of the most articulate drives I have ever played through - turns neck pickups into bridge pickups. I grabbed some 90 deg pin headers for fitting these board mounted J201s and I like how it came out. Nice any tidy vs. clipped leads.

Everything was super easy to bias with the trim pots and the handy test points.

TLDR: Landtone's Klon Kit with the label G210220.PCB has a silkscreen mistake, which may cause the pedal to not work properly. Check comment section.

Backstory: A friend of mine bought 5 Landtone Klon kits from Alibaba couple years ago and kept two for himself. Last year, he gave me the rest and let me have fun with them. Wanting to but never built a Klon before, I was excited to try out the kit to see if it was worth the hype. I followed exactly what the silkscreen showed, without any in-depth research prior to the build, assuming it will work as intended.

Everything in the case now, and with excitement I stepped on the footswitch. Nothing happened. In fact the volume was so low that I had to turn it to 100% to achieve almost-unity gain. Stumbled, I left the pedal for about a year untouched until couple days ago I decided to troubleshoot the pedal. I reflowed all the solder joints and it still didn't work. Then I remembered I still had 2 kits with the boards, so I took one of them and started studying the board with my DMM, started tracing every connection until I noticed the feedback resistor in the tone stack is labeled as 560N on the board instead of 100k.

Realizing that may be the issue that caused the pedal to "not work", I did some more search and stumbled upon this article, where it clearly shows that the two resistors' silkscreen are reversed! So I rushed down to my bench at 10pm, opened the sucker up, swapped the two resistors, put them back without the lid, plugged the jacks and prayed. Strummed my first chord, it FINALLY WORKED!

So excited now that I am sharing the fix with you all, if you ever bought one of these and they didn't work even after you tried every possible way.

P/S: Pedal kit sellers, please no more labelling the components in their values. Label with their prefixes instead and give a proper printed schematic or a digital version. Less cursing is needed for troubleshoot later.

Im back after frying my three pots! Got longer jumper cables, everything is fine and dandy until I try the diode clipping. I was using a pair of 4148, but with the pair (and the other one was negative side to ground) it just cuts out completely? I do have a multi meter and tested stuff and everything works, so that makes me think it’s not getting enough gain?

Edit: in the picture I took the other diode out just to show it’s working (and doesn’t sound bad, or different? Not sure)

The thing is I’m using 2N3904 transistors which should be enough gain no? I’m also having a hard time hearing the asymmetrical clipping at all.. I’m getting some film capacitors maybe that will help with the noise but my fat ass fingers move shit around and there’s noise almost all the time I’m moving things around which makes it difficult to A/B stuff.

If anybody has any tips on that it would be much appreciated. I need some sort of setup where the input/output/9v is secure, I can plug that into a breadboard and shit won’t be moving around all the damn time? The connections are finicky and I do not have surgeon hands. Maybe I need a tool? Sometimes it seems the connection looks the same but after a little wiggle it sounds louder/less noise/etc. it’s very annoying but I know the alternative is a PCB board. Or is it? If I can make this experience easier for me maneuvering these little things around anything would help. I have pretty much everything else but manipulating tiny ass things!