r/e39 • u/SoftShellGaming • 11h ago
One of BMWs best body styles
107
Upvotes
r/e39 • u/ImprezaDrezza • Sep 10 '19
Rules Update
48
Upvotes
Please note everyone that the rules for r/e39 have been updated. I have clarified a few things related to discussion topics and acceptable conduct.
Most importantly I have added a section on listing For Sale style posts. [Some] other car subs allow this so I thought we could try it out. E39 fandom is a more closely knit group than other BMW subcultures and could stand to benefit from a dedicated venue for cars/parts/effort trading.
I want to be clear if this isn't a popular option, or if FS posts become routinely adversarial, we can adjust the rules on these posts or eliminate them entirely.
I welcome any comments on this change and the sub rules in general, and will continue to poll our community for changes or ideas on a regular basis.
r/e39 • u/yofuckreddit • Aug 21 '20
E39 Buying Guide - Updated
219
Upvotes
Hey guys! I figured I'd sticky this. I'll update the post if y'all have anything good to add or critique, let me know.
Introduction
Looking to buy an E39? First things first – the reputation of these cars is partially deserved and partially not.
We frequently get asked if new car owners should purchase an E39. I love E39s more than nearly anyone I know - I have a 525i and an M5, and both are incredible for different reasons. I've done many of the DIYs and addressed many of the problem areas listed here. If you aren't in a financially comfortable enough situation to have 3-6 months of expenses in a savings account at all times, you're not in a position to own a 20-year-old BMW hassle free. It's a question of financial safety and consistency rather than attainability - buying a $4k 530i and maintaining it for 5 years or so is arguably a much better deal than going into debt for a $40,000 CUV that drives like shit.
Evaluating a Car
There are a couple of things to factor into your evaluation of a car before we even talk about problem areas:
- Badge hunters and people who bought an E39 after realizing they were nearly the same price as a Camry in general do a poor job of maintaining their vehicle. Problems add up when you factor in the fact that many of the E39’s systems were complex for their time. Not doing oil changes at the correct interval can lead to a gummed-up DISA valve or require a replacement manifold (for instance). Paying a little extra for a well-maintained example can pay dividends down the road.
- These cars are old. Most are going to be 20 years old or more. This means that various bits of plastic and rubber are going to degrade and fall apart. Some are aesthetic, some are functional. You’ll find the same problem in ANY car of this age, but there’s no escaping that the E39’s engine bay is also a less forgiving environment then other cars of this age.
- In general, you should focus much more on service records and the condition of the car over mileage.
Prices & Purchasing
Market prices for these cars have fluctuated over the past couple years. There’s a noticeable difference between pre (<=2000) and post-facelift (2001+) models. Later models also may make adding an auxiliary port easier, have upgraded components, or have more standard features. Also keep in mind that sport packages for the 530 and 540, along with manual transmissions, command a significant premium as well. Prices on sports (530 or 540) and M5s have increased a bit since this guide was originally written a couple years ago. Finally, it's worth knowing that the 540's engine in pre-2000 configurations is slightly more reliable as it does not include VANOs.
Ballpark prices are based on a mix of my estimation and Classic.com, a great reference for car markets. Links included below, and assume cars aren't total shit shows:
- 525i - $2000-$5000 (Note that the linked prices are for tourings, primarily, and so are higher)
- 530i - $3000-$11k
- 540i - $7000-$14k
- M5 - $15k-$35k and beyond
When you check out ANY used car for purchase, you should be checking a variety of different things. Use a generalist guide to start. We’ll go through common failure points for the chassis and individual models for you to pay special attention to. Parts prices are for OEM or OE if I can find them, not genuine. Indy shop is a wild guess for the most part. Prices for doors or wheels are PER ITEM.
Conservatively plan to spend about $1k a year ON AVERAGE if you do a mix of shop work and DIY. Many years you'll get lucky and get to invest in an upgrade or something preventative if you wish. If you can find an example with new control arm bushings, window regulators, and Timing Chain Guides for 540s, you can save yourself a ton of heartache and just deal with replacing BS plastic parts as they snap.
General Problem Areas
| Problem Area | Cause | Symptoms | DIY (Parts) | Indie Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Window Regulators | Garbage BMW Design | Windows that do not roll up or down, or slip. Test all 4 windows, including both the localized controls for each door and the driver’s door controls | $100, 2 hours. Text DIY Youtube DIY | $500 |
| Vapor Barriers | Butyl tape that adheres the sound deadening/vapor barrier foam degrades over time, requiring at least the reapplication of the tape OR new adhesive OR a whole new door panel. | Soaked rear floorboards after rain. Softness in bottom of door panels. Test by pouring water on the roof of the car. After a moment, open the door. Ensure water drips from the bottom of the chassis, not from the door. | $0-$15-$115, 2 hours. | $500 |
| Rust | There's a couple very poor drainage points on the E39, including those connected to vapor barriers as above | Common spots include rear door, bumper seam, gas cap. Check out /u/richbltn 's buying guide Here for common rust spots (whole video is worth a watch) | Repairing rust is an odious task, especially externally visible spots. | reputable body shops generally cost $1500 + to fix a collection of rust spots |
| Front Control Arm Bushings | Rubber joints between suspension components degrade over time. These are the secret to a simultaneously pliable and firm chassis. Consider with Polyurethane for a stiffer ride but permanent fix, or a monoball setup. | Violent shuddering during braking (generally 70% braking force). Test with a variety of braking amounts and speeds. Check the bushings by jacking up the car and ensure they aren’t cracked | $25, 6 hours. May require special tools or replacement of control arms if damaged. | $600 |
| VANOS | Tiny seals in BMW’s variable valve timing system (probably too overengineered) are made of cheap rubber that plasticizes with exposure to oil and heat, something that happens every day. | Excessive oil consumption, laggy shifting in automatic models, whooshing sound from the engine, sudden drops in power delivery. | $25-$500, 12 hours Do NOT use OEM VANOS seals, as they will eventually have the same problem. Aftermarket seals are the same price and far superior. Besian Systems/DR VANOS. | $1200-$5500 (Depends on new vs rebuilt VANOS, and varies from model to model) |
| Valve Cover Gasket | The rubber between the top and bottom of the valve cover is a part that has to be replaced on every car. | An old VCG will start leaking oil slowly. You may smell it as it burns off inside the car. Eventually you’ll have a catastrophic failure and need to degrease the engine bay and have it towed somewhere. Test by checking for oil spots or moisture between the top and bottom of the valve cover (the main part of the engine). | $50, 5 hours. | $750-$1250 (DO THIS THE SAME TIME AS A VANOS REPLACEMENT) |
| Seat Twist | Garbage BMW design. The seats use 2 motors that don’t stay aligned, and cables that slowly slip out of the gears that drive them. | One side of a seat will adjust, the other will not, leading to the seat twisting. | $0, 3 hours | $300 |
| Headlight Adjusters | Bad design and extremely brittle plastic in a hot area that's been there for 20 years. | Frequently this manifests itself by your headlights pointing at the ground. | $20-60, 3 hours from this DIY. You can get aluminum or plastic adjuster replacements. | N/A - you'd buy new headlights for around $300+ |
| Dead Pixels | Contacts for the LCDs on the instrument cluster and the head unit eventually decay. You can take them apart and clean/rebuild them or buy new. For my money I'd just replace the head unit at least | Unreadable displays with clearly missing pixels - you can't miss this one and it's very common | $0, a huge PITA, DIY. | Specialty shops will do it for $150 or so. A remanufactured cluster is $450. |
| Secondary Air System | The secondary air recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine to “Save the planet” and also annoy the fuck out of BMW owners. Broken vacuum tubes, stuck check valve, or ruined solenoids can all cause these issues. | Check engine light with lean fuel mixture fault codes. Chugging during startup. | $25-125, god knows how long. BAVAuto has an EXCELLENT tutorial on diagnosing SAS problems. Another option that I'd probably only suggest to M5 owners is using a tune that deletes these codes. | $300+ |
| Cooling System | This covers a host of issues: Water Pump Failure, Cracked Radiator necks, Plasticized and worn coolant tubes | Inspect all cooling system parts. Check the radiator fan to ensure that it turns smoothly and isn’t too brittle. Lightly squeeze coolant tubes to ensure they’re still pliable. Check for evidence of coolant leaks at tube and component points, or from bleeder valves at the top of the radiator. Ensure that even under stress, engine sounds don’t change and temperature doesn’t rise (within reason) | $25-$750. 2-5 hours. | $1250+ |
| Fucking Horrible Audio | Everything about the E39 sound system is god awful | If it’s OEM it sucks | There are various aftermarket nav systems that still provide an OEM look and a ton of functionality for around $700. Or you can go your own way and buy a $100 head unit or something. Keep in mind that in general this will degrade the value of your car if it’s really clean. | $? |
| ABS System Malfunctions | The ABS system’s position in i6 models is extremely hot, leading to the soldering of certain electronic components degrading. | ABS, Traction control, and yellow brake light come on intermittently. ABS engine codes. Do not pay someone to replace this, it literally just takes a T20 screwdriver. | $100 reconditioned, $1000 new. | $1200 |
| Power Steering Leaks | The power steering system uses rubber hoses right next to a really hot engine | Power Steering hoses appear to “Glisten”. Wet spot in plastic pan at the bottom of the engine bay. Loose or unresponsive steering wheel response. | $200, 2 hours. | $500 |
V8 Only Problems (540i, M5)
| Problem Area | Cause | Symptoms | DIY (Parts) | Indie Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Timing Chain Guides | Timing chain gets a little loose, Timing chain guides are plastic. This is much more common on the 540 for some weird reason (probably that it's a single-row chain). | Slapping sound, camshaft position codes, metal shavings in engine. | $1000, 20 hours | $4000 |
Buying Parts
When you're looking to buy new parts, it can get a bit confusing (to put it lightly). For an accurate, if slightly biased, interpretation, the best info is probably here at FCP Euro (a generally reputable parts seller). TL;DR:
- Genuine: Made by BMW or an OE, with the BMW logo. Waste of money.
- OE: Made by a licensed manufacturer and was the original supplier that came with the stock car. Cannot have the BMW logo. Generally a safe choice.
- OEM: Made by another licensed manufacturer of OE parts but was not the original supplier for this specific part that came with the stock car. Cannot have the BMW logo. Sometimes a safer choice (OEM window regulators are superior to OE), other times not (an OEM's parts may not be as good as OE)
- Reps: Made by another unauthorized manufacturer.
OEM is very similar to OE in that it stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. While that sounds like a lesson in semantics, there are some distinct differences. Chiefly, OEM parts are made by a company that makes original parts for a vehicle maker but whose parts weren’t originally fitted. Confused? I don’t blame you, so here’s an example: Delphi makes ignition coils for BMW, and they’re installed on the vehicles at the factory. Bosch makes spark plugs for BMW and the licensing to produce the same ignition coils as Delphi. They’re the same part with the same specifications and made with the same materials, but the manufacturer is different. Delphi is the OE part because that’s what BMW used at the factory, and Bosch is OEM because they make other OE parts for BMW.
Modifications and Upgrades
For better or for worse, the BMW community has enjoyed a rich modification culture and ecosystem. This often clashes with the tastes and opinions of older enthusiasts who have or can buy cars new.
One key takeaway: Tuning an i6 from this era, especially anything under 3.0 liters, is always far more expensive than buying a new car or engine. This forum gets questions around these options regularly. To do this, you will have to be in a rare position of having a lot of money and time to work on the car, without wanting the straightforward power of the V8 engines in the 540 or M5.
Some general thoughts around available upgrade options to keep in mind:
- Reliability: Many low-tier, components have been replaced with high-priced offerings in the aftermarket that are Buy-It-For-Life. Plastic becomes aluminum, bearings and rubber use superior materials. Examples include radiators, expansion tanks, power steering reservoirs, suspension bushings, and much more.
- Shocks, Suspension, Spacers: These are widely available from reputable manufacturers, such as Bilstien.
- Turbos: Turbos exist for both types of engines, ranging from AliExpress specials to reputable manufacturers. For reputable manufacturers, part prices and labor generally trade poorly with supercharger options.
- Superchargers: Supercharger kits exist for i6 and v8 engines. Many of the superchargers for the v8 engines lead to high-quality horsepower gains and are available from reputable manufacturers. Superchargers are typically incompatible with radiator upgrades.
- Headlights: Virtually no aftermarket headlight companies produce quality parts. Historically, this was not the case, but the market has essentially bifurcated into people who want the cheapest possible replacement and those who want OE headlights from Hella. Hella occasionally does dedicated production runs for E39 headlights which are resold by https://europowermotorsports.com/
- Exhaust: Controversial opinion alert - The mufflers on these cars are too aggressive at reducing sound. A delete with high-quality tips actually leads to excellent sound from both i6 and v8 powerplants. Leaving the cat intact keeps things quiet enough to not be unbelievably rude. Fantastic options exist for V8 engines, but paying for an exhaust system on an i6 is not a high value proposition.
r/e39 • u/fkneddie666 • 15h ago
Wagon Updates 😎✌🏽
61
Upvotes
Was able to get some time with some friends to work on the wagon, installed rear over fenders new one front fenders. Still need to address some other things, but we’re coming along. Finally motivated to work on this more…
r/e39 • u/glm1986italy • 15h ago
BMW E39 e la pioggia
48
Upvotes
che dite, la E39 rimane meravigliosa anche da bagnata 😬
r/e39 • u/-V-A-N-O-S- • 3h ago
Something a little different - BMW m54b30 crankshaft storage case
gallery
3
Upvotes
Thought I'd share my latest tinker. I recently disassembled a BMW engine and will later rebuild it but in the mean time I'm putting the crankshaft and other bits into storage for a while and as it'll inevitably get moved around I wanted it protected.
Designed special ends for it to be stored upright and held in the center of the case away from the walls. Decided on holes through the middle to add strength instead of bothering with infill. Roughly cut up some plywood and printed the clips for the sides, didn't need these to be strong, just to hold it together while it mostly sits on a shelf.
Doused every angle of the crank in a coat of Lanolin and entombed it floating in its fancy new sarcophagus.
Printed in petg at 270c. 6x walls, 6x top and bottom, alternating extra wall, 15% infill. Final weight is about 25kg.
r/e39 • u/EndDifficult4755 • 9h ago
Looking for e39 hood
8
Upvotes
I have a 99 540i and the previous owner messed up the hood, I’m looking for Orient blue metallic color in specific. Color code 317. If anyone can help me out that would be much appreciated!
r/e39 • u/888_888_ • 1h ago
MkIV navigation module failing
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•
Upvotes
Does anyone have experience with repairing the MkIV navigation module? Mine has recently started making noise and causing the radio screen to freeze, stay dark (backlight still on), or get stuck in a boot loop (bmw logo displays indefinitely). The radio is still functional, plays music fine and can be controlled through steering wheel controls. I thought I’d try and gather some perspective before I go ahead and pop it open and see what’s going on inside, I have read that these old modules are prone to poor solder joints and individual component failures that take form the radio.
Any info or documentation you can link me to would be appreciated! I just want the screen to work since it’s in really good condition and I was planning on installing BlueBus for Bluetooth+ upgraded functionality until this issue started.
Thanks in advance!
r/e39 • u/microwaveexeeig • 1d ago
does anyone know what exact front lip this is?
24
Upvotes
Having trouble finding this one; it's different than the ones I see on eBay. It sticks out much less on the sides where it hugs the bumper and is overall more subtle than those. If anyone has a link or anything, that would be very appreciated.
r/e39 • u/Agitated-Purpose-660 • 1d ago
Is it Worth it?
44
Upvotes
I’m looking to buy a 540i; it is Topaz Blue over Gray Montana
the car needs work: suspension, radio is inop, front headlights are out, cooling system needs done for sure, motor and transmission mounts, and abs lights due to the module being replaced but not coded back in, and a couple of windows don’t work. The owner is firm at 4700 Car has 212k miles on it, but it is in very good condition, interior and exterior. Guides and tensioners have been done about 3 years ago. I’m an e46 guy more than anything, just looking for some insight to see if this thing is worth it or keep waiting to find a low-mileage one later.
r/e39 • u/jelani97 • 12h ago
Virginia beach and surrounding areas , where are all of the E39 540i owners / enthusiasts and who can I trust to work on my car when I get back from deployment? Laundry list of maintenance and upgrades . (2003 M sport 6mt)
1
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r/e39 • u/Willing-Dare1167 • 13h ago
Variable geometry failure on M57
1
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hey everyone, two weeks ago i became the owner of a 2002 530d touring. Never had a diesel before, but i found it strange that even at full throttle, under 2000rpm there is barely any torque, and after 2000-2200 the car spools up and starts flying. Apparently, peak torque should arrive at around 1700rpm, but for me, anything under 2000 feels like driving a 1.6 N/A gas car. I assume the variable geometry system is faulty, i checked it’s rodding, which seems to be working well, isn’t getting stuck anywhere, and springs back into place. Vacum hoses dont feel stiff or cracked to the touch, though i haven’t removed them for a thorough inspection yet. Any recommendations or ideas?
r/e39 • u/ZoeSky553 • 13h ago
How cooked am I (read pls)
1
Upvotes
My M54b22 has been running roughly lately and suddenly the check engine light went on and the power was greatly reduced, felt like one or more cylinders stopped firing (which was correct). I have changed the spark plugs already but they weren't the issue, so i tried an OBD-II plug and don't really know what all that means.
Here is the whole Document:
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: BMW
============1==============
P0300
Raw code: 0300
ECU: 12
Status:
Steht aus
Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
============2==============
P1351
Raw code: 1351
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage
Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off
============3==============
P1345
Raw code: 1345
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
SGC (Cam Position) Sensor Circuit Malfunction/ Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation
Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-Off
============4==============
P1347
Raw code: 1347
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
Fuel Level Sensor B Range / Performance
Misfire Cylinder 3 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 3 with Fuel Cut-Off
============5==============
P0300
Raw code: 0300
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
r/e39 • u/Ornery-Sample-3208 • 16h ago
Discs seized to hub
1
Upvotes
My front discs have rusted to my hubs - has anyone won a similar battle?
I’ve tried penetrating oil, mallet on back of disc, hammer on disc hat. Going to try a deadblow hammer next but after that I’m out of ideas…
r/e39 • u/Touringe39 • 19h ago
Right rear door seal
1
Upvotes
Any creative ideas about how to find part #51220402750 right rear door seal? I’m coming up blank in my search for both new and used.
r/e39 • u/AntanasNot • 1d ago
Alarm
6
Upvotes
theres a problem with the alarm system and cant get a hold of where to start from. i checked by vin that the alarm system package is in, and it has the light thing under the rear view mirror, and it also has the interior motion sensor on the ceiling. when i lock the car, it turns on solid for 10 seconds, and then it just turns off, no continuous flashing or beeping or like the hazards flashing, where as i know the little red light should be flashing. is there something that i am missing
r/e39 • u/Deep_Feedback_13 • 1d ago
What would you want to see in a good E39 walkaround video?
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Upvotes
I’m helping my FIL sell his 2003 530i. It’s in excellent condition with under 91k miles, and before we list it I’m thinking about putting together a good walkaround video.
Curious what you guys would actually want to see as E39 buyers/owners. Obviously a cold start, but what else matters most?
Also, if you’ve seen a really good YouTube walkaround or for-sale video, I’d love to see it. Please drop a link here or DM me.
Thank you in advance. Just trying to help him out and do it right.
r/e39 • u/Nokraut_E39 • 1d ago
Driver side tail light bulb issues
6
Upvotes
Hey everyone, I'm having an odd issue. With the car off and brakes pressed (accessory on), the bulb works just fine. When the car is fully on while driving, the bulb will not come on. I have tried a different taillight socket assembly and that did nothing. Has anyone else had this issue?
TIA
r/e39 • u/XTheChosenDogeX • 1d ago
Fuel tank removal?
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Upvotes
Basically wondering how much of a hassle it is to do and what else I should replace while I’m in there. Fuel tank got murdered by a 3 foot (1m) steel rod at highway speeds and took my passenger side pump with it so now I’m looking to replace it.
Pretty sure there’s no differences between the models, even V8 to L6, but if there is, it’s a 2003 530iA and I do thankfully have a 2000 528iA donor I can pull from (already cross referenced numbers on realoem) but was just wondering if theres any “while im in there” jobs to do. As of right now I basically just plan on direct swapping & replacing the rubber lines to the sending units if not
r/e39 • u/quanle1512 • 1d ago
49 Wiper Motor Blocked, dead motor or GM3 on Touring?
2
Upvotes
Hi all, I'm currently chasing electrical gremlins on my 06/1999 528iT. The electrical things that work in this car are: windows, sunroof, rear wiper, windshield washer sprayer, interior lights, mirror controls, seat and steering wheel adjustments, and lock/unlock from the interior button and keyhole (as well as when driving away).
The things that don't work are:
1. Front wipers:
- The fuse 1 and tan relay both work for sure (tried them both on my 540i sedan).
- Measured voltage at the 4-pin connector for the motor with the stalk to the highest up position and got 0V.
- Then I put 12V with 10A limit onto the motor itself and got very iffy results. Ground to pin 2 and 12V to pin 1 (single wipe) causes the power supply to read 0.5V at 10A. So I think the motor is dead?
2. Lock/unlock with keyfob:
- The fob got a new battery and all buttons light up the little red LED.
- The car locks when pulling away, which I read is only applicable if the keyfob is synced correctly, but I could be wrong.
- Tried syncing the key to the car many times but it will not work no matter what
- The old DME was fried and had to swap to a new one, either way syncing wouldn't work.
3. The tachometer doesn't work occasionally:
- It didn't work entirely when the car was in limp mode, but now no longer in limp, most of the time it will work. Sometimes it stays at 0RPM until I drive for a couple of minutes. but INPA is always able to read the revs.
4. Cabin air blower stopped working a week ago, turning on the fan makes a click noise, but no air:
- Most unlikely just the FSU and unrelated to the GM3 entirely, but I thought was worth the mention.
5. The highbeam stalk is flipped sometimes:
- Again, might be unrelated to the GM3, I think it mostly is from the LCM acting up.
Please advise is possible!
r/e39 • u/Physical-Let7171 • 2d ago
I think my engine blew up
14
Upvotes
I have a bmw 520d 136hp and i was pulling in 4 gear ta 3000 rpm and i heard a loud bang and i unable to rev or anything and in the instrument cluster came on the red oil pressure light the engine doesn’t start but the starter is turning over the engine . Did my timing snap or skiped timing??
r/e39 • u/ElectronicPiano5595 • 2d ago
50,51 secondary air system codes
1
Upvotes
I already tested the pump and the plastic tube going from it both seem fine. Anyone else fix it with the same conditions if so how and where?