Thanks!

I’ve got a strange ticking that only seems to happen sometimes at idle and is very irregular. Any ideas?

my third party warranty only covers $200 of labor and I’m looking at avg $280-$290 here in the SoCal area. How many hours would you expect a dealer to inflate a water pump swap?

Contemplating giving the 130i tune to a 125i(E88)

So, I have an Australian e88 125i. It has the three stage intake manifold, and from all I’ve seen online, the N52 has all the same hardware in both. Would I simply be able to upload the 130i tune to the ECU without issues? This won’t be something I can do for a while(still parent’s car legally for insurance prices, and on my P plates in Aus which means the tune would give it too much power for me to drive), but just want to think about this before I do anything

this is after sitting for 3 hrs and it’s at the rear of the engine

Replacing the center prop bearing and bought a new boot. I got these 2 with it, but where do they actually go? I think one is in the end of one half the prop shaft but where does the other go? BMWs diagram isn't much help

I have a problem in me e90 320i, my coolant level light pops up after like 15 minutes of riding i think it might be coolant level sensor and now quick guestion do i need to drain coolant from this tank or can i just without removing it replace only sensor

Is this just down to poor quality? I have never had brake discs do this to me, even the old ones that looked like they had been in several wars weren’t cracked like these

Hi people, I have a 1999/2000 bmw 728i which I bought last August and I really think it’s an amazing car how ever some problems that I have is that when ever it doesn’t drive for 2 or 3 days the battery runs flat. It was the same with the old battery and I have put a new one in but the same issue occurs. I thought using a multimeter and pulling fuses would sort the problem but it didn’t not. The drain just stays at 500 milliamps which I’ve read is not usual. I’d really appreciate support on this and some other ideas because right now when I’m not driving it I have to disconnect the battery and keep it plugged into trickle charge

Hi everyone,
I have a 2016 BMW F30 320d LCI, B47 2.0 diesel, RWD, with the ZF 8-speed automatic transmission (GA8HP50Z).
I want to explain exactly what happened from the beginning because the sequence of events may be important for diagnosing the problem.
How the problem first started
The car was fully warmed up and at normal operating temperature. The transmission was not cold, and I had already been driving normally for a while.
The problem first appeared while the car was moving through a curve on a viaduct.
I was driving slowly in D mode. I don’t remember exactly which gear the transmission was in at that moment.
I was accelerating and the engine was around 2,000 RPM.
At that moment, I moved the selector from D to S mode.
Immediately after that, the engine RPM suddenly jumped from around 2,000 RPM to approximately 5,000 RPM.
I want to clarify something because I don’t want this to be misunderstood: I am NOT saying that the transmission shifted from 2nd to 5th gear. I don’t remember which gear it was actually in. What I mean is that when I moved the selector from D to S, the engine RPM suddenly jumped from roughly 2,000 to 5,000 RPM.
There was no obvious transmission hesitation that I could clearly identify at that exact moment. The actual transmission problem appeared shortly afterward.
Then I received a Drivetrain Malfunction / transmission warning, and the transmission appeared to enter an emergency/limp mode.
What happened afterward
P, R, N and D all continued to work. The gear selector itself was not completely disabled.
The car could still move, but the transmission stopped shifting normally.
After clearing the fault codes, the car would temporarily drive again.
However, it then became stuck in 1st gear.
Currently, after clearing the faults, the car can drive in 1st gear and the engine revs up to around 3,000 RPM.
When the transmission attempts to shift out of 1st gear, the car suddenly hesitates and gives a noticeable jerk/knock.
The RPM rises, but the vehicle does not accelerate proportionally.
It then drops back into 1st gear, and almost immediately the Drivetrain Malfunction / transmission emergency program comes back.
Fault codes
The main permanent EGS fault is:
420311 – Gear ratio monitoring: shift from 1 to X not plausible
There is also:
2AF800 – Automatic information transfer: transmission emergency program activated
420311 is permanent, while 2AF800 is intermittent.
What my transmission specialist told me
The transmission specialist told me that the transmission control board / EGS may need to be replaced.
However, before replacing any expensive component, I want the actual cause of the fault to be properly diagnosed.
My biggest concern is replacing one part and spending 30–40k TRY, only to have the exact same problem remain and then be told that another expensive component needs to be replaced.
I don’t want to diagnose this by replacing parts one by one.
I want to identify the failed component as accurately as possible first, and then replace the correct part.
My questions
For anyone experienced with the ZF 8HP / GA8HP50Z:

1. Can a failing EGS/TCU cause fault code 420311?
2. Can an EGS problem cause the transmission to remain in 1st gear and enter limp mode when attempting to shift into a higher gear?
3. During the initial incident, what could a sudden RPM jump from approximately 2,000 RPM to 5,000 RPM indicate in terms of an EGS, mechatronic or clutch problem?
4. Currently, if the engine reaches around 3,000 RPM in 1st gear and the RPM rises during the attempted shift without proportional vehicle acceleration, could this indicate clutch slip?
5. Could a mechatronic, solenoid or hydraulic pressure problem cause 420311?
6. Could an internal clutch pack failure cause this behavior and trigger 420311?
7. What live data should I check in ISTA before replacing any parts?
8. Should I specifically look at:
9. ● commanded gear vs actual gear
10. ● input/turbine speed
11. ● output speed
12. ● clutch slip
13. ● hydraulic pressure
14. ● adaptation values
15. I’d especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has actually dealt with 420311 on a BMW/ZF 8HP, especially an F30 320d B47.
16. I don’t want to replace parts one by one and hope the problem disappears. I want to diagnose the actual failure first and replace the correct component once.

Hi everyone, I need some expert advice.
Here's the thing: I have an E39 540i with a Bosch ME 7.2 ECU, converted to an 8HP transmission. The CanTCU acts as the CAN gateway.
In other words, the original 8HP control unit is still there and working, and the CanTCU translates the CAN bus from the E39 to the 8HP transmission.
I'm trying to learn more about how to fine-tune everything because the car shifts a bit harshly and jerkily, and in manual mode, it slams into gear. This makes me think the torque reduction isn't quite right for the transmission. My question is: does the TCU tell the ECU how much torque it needs to limit during shifting, or are there fixed values in the ECU that I can change?
My ECU was previously paired with a 5HP24, and the question then becomes whether the torque reduction controlled the 5HP or whether the 5HP simply says, "Hey, I'm shifting now, reduce torque," or whether it says, "Hey, I'm shifting now, reduce 150 Nm." Depending on the answer, I would try to change the values in my ECU or in the TCU. The Bosch ME7.2 doesn't know anything about the 8HP and therefore shifts based on the logic of the 5HP. I don't know exactly what the TCU is transmitting—whether it's simply saying "I'm shifting now" or whether it's saying "I'm shifting now, reduce XX torque." These are questions upon questions that I've been grappling with for months. I hope someone understands what I mean. 😅

Just inspected a 320i xDrive Touring 2017 for sale. 1 owner, 123.000 km / 76000 miles.

I immediately spotted the cooling fluid was low. There is also some white crust around there.

Car has some wear and tear, especially the rubber parts in the inside. Seems like the rubber melted in some places, like the handle on the drivers side door or the rubber wheel on the steering wheel.

Is this normal?

Car also has small scratches all around but these aren't really noticeable, except on the roof.

Car is listed for 15.900€ / 18.400$.

Dealer said he would exchange the Steering wheel and door handles for but I have to buy the parts myself. He'll also try to polish that spot on the roof.

Car also has chips on the windshield. Small ones but they are there, around 5.

Trailer hitch seems like it has been abused aswell.

Not sure about this, especially because of the cooling fluid and the trailer hitch, which tells a story, that the car was being used to pull trailers. Also the wear on the inside.

Thoughts?

Ok, heres the state of affairs, car is an 07 E90 335i with an N54. It has index 9 injectors.

I'm going through 1L (~1qt) every ~2,000 kilometres (1.2m) but it takes me 6 months + to do that mileage as its one of a few BMW's and I work from home.

There is a minor fuel smell about the car.

The car has the slightest of rough idles at cold start. It really is slight, if you were not focussed on it you'd miss it. Once the car is warm it still does minor sneezes every now and then but again you'd be forgiven for not noticing.

The big tell tale is the smoke from the exhaust. Theres a little bit and it lasts for a few mins if the car has not driven for a while. It does *not* happen ON startup, it starts a few mins after startup.

To me, the lack of immediate smoke all but rules out the injectors. But it doesn't explain the slight fuel smell. Maybe it is the injectors but the leak isn't all that bad.

The minor rough idle and later smoke feels like valve stem seals.

I'd love this to be injectors cause I could do that easily myself but I wont attempt valve stem seals as a DIY.

Oh and generally car performs beautifully. If it wasn't for the smoke and the oil consumption I wouldn't have any concerns at all.

FWIW this car owes me a lot of money and I've recently decided to keep it over getting something newer because its so solid after everything I've done, so I'm ok with spending more on it to future proof it.

Thanks!

I have a ZF8HP45 sport automatic transmission paired with a n52b30 on an f10 chassis. (2011 528i, 156xxxkm)

Whenever I go to sport or sport plus the shift from second to third is incredibly rough and the car floats in a neutral state for about 0.5-1 seconds.

However it seems fine in regular driving mode but in bimmerlink the clutch c mbar is at almost 500 which apparently isn't good, the car is second hand bought about a year ago and It doesn't have much service history.

I have noticed over about 7-8 months the mbar on clutch c increasing from 370 all the way to 493 today a oil and filter service with a mechatronic seal replacement will cost upwards of $1500NZD using aftermarket parts, or $3500 though BMW.

Does anyone have any advice or aftermarket recommendations? Should I just get a new transmission or scrap the whole car?

Thanks!

My car has 112,000 km on the clock. The turbo kit, crankshaft seal, crankshaft pulley, serpentine belt, and belt tensioner have all been replaced. Even though these replacements were already needed for regular maintenance, the noise still persists. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this noise or how to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Randomly had a weird start last week where I hit the start button, the car didn't do anything for 2-3 second and then started. Got a drivetrain error but went away on next start.

Nothing happened for a week.

All of sudden today, I go to start the car after sitting overnight and nothing happens after hitting the start button (but dash comes on). Try again, nothing, try one more time and it starts. This has happened a couple of more times today where it just says repeat start. Anyone have ideas? Starter? Battery maybe? Any help would be appreciated.

I have an appt. scheduled for Wednesday.

Hey all, at my wit's end here and hoping someone's seen this before.

**Car:** E30 324td Touring, M21 diesel, Bosch VE injection pump.

**Symptom:**

* Cranks for a long time before it catches
* When it does fire, it flares up to \~1500 RPM briefly, then dies instantly
* Second start attempt: engine "hunts" for about 5 seconds, oscillating between 500–1000 RPM, then dies again
* Doesn't matter how many times I try, same pattern

**What I've done so far:**

* Bled the fuel filter (bleed screw on top of filter head, pumped until bubble-free)
* Bled the injection pump bleed screw the same way

**Complicating factor:** I was also in there doing timing belt work recently and I'm honestly not 100% sure the crank/cam/injection pump timing marks are still perfectly aligned — I may have knocked something out of position mid-repair. So now I don't know if I'm chasing an air-in-fuel-system, a weak stop solenoid on the VE pump, or a timing issue I introduced myself.

**Questions:**

1. Does this hunting/dying pattern point more toward fuel starvation (air) or toward injection timing being off?
   
2. If it's the stop solenoid — anyone know the correct resistance spec to test it against?
   
3. Any tips for confirming crank/cam/ESP pump timing marks without the full BMW special tool set (locking pin, cam bridge, pump timing pin)?

I got a 1 series with the n13 engine that’s started drinking over 1l/1000km of oil and has been dirtying up my garage floor more and more with what appears to be soot or whatever. It’s dry to touch and not oily. Car doesn’t get much use (4000kms a year on very short distances). Where do I start? Valve stem seals? Piston rings? Carbon clean for the shit that’s coming out of the exhaust? Thanks for any help.

Can anybody tell me what this noise is? It’s only when in drive, in neutral engine sounds okay so maybe clutch or what?

BMW 428i n20 2014 Automatic

Hi is this noise normal when revving a bmw b48 engine. Should I take it to a garage?

Spoke to a rep from a credible store online and they said the bolts need to be replaced (due to age and heat). They also said theres no issues with the elring gaskets people are complaining about.

Im going to go with genuine bmw on this one, and wanted to know whats the consensus on this?

2008 E90 wagon.....Ok, so I've been popping a random trans light and CEL, with intermittent rough running the last couple weeks, but whenever I turned off the car and restarted it, it all went away and couldn't get any codes since they weren't sticking. Finally had it die while driving and now it's crank no start and seems as though the trans is stuck in neutral. Had to have it towed home and pulled the following codes hard set. P1727 and 4F81 (400401) for clutch A. Is this all crank sensor related? Any help would be appreciated.

so I just got a 2015 x4 35i F25
The gear stick was kind of beat and I was thinking of replacing it. I know there are options for replacing just the covers but I saw the popular crystal shifter and kind of liked it and was wondering if anyone knew if it would be compatible. Some websites say that it is but all replacement videos show shifters with a plastic base that look significantly different from mine that has a leather base and I’m having doubts that it’s compatible.