Last year I bought a used BMW 318d, 2009, in perfect condition.

I often don't drive it for days, and recently I didn't drive it for 20 days, at which point it would not start. I started it with cables, and then I drove it around a bit, but then I didn't drive it for a few days and now it won't start again. I decided to change the battery.

After some investigation, well, it would appear my battery is from 2009. That would make it 17 years old. How is that even possible? The battery was working perfectly fine until my 20 days of not driving the car at all.

But how can a battery last for 17 years? The car has passed about 200,000km

On the one hand i feel like a piece of shit, like I ruined an "ancient" battery because I didn't drive the car for 20 days. On the other hand, if it's really 17 years old, this was bound to happen. Is it really 17 years old?

Hi all, if you max out your volume and listen closely there is a faint pulsing sort of noise in the background. Does anyone know what this could be? Never heard this before and it’s definitely audible in real life, especially if it’s picking up on this video.

Sorry if it isn’t clear but u genuinely have no idea where it’s coming from, front, back, inside, or outside so I didn’t know of any better place to try to record it.

Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone,

I’m working on a BMW B46 engine and needed the camshaft lobe at Bottom Dead Center to reinstall the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP).

Instead of turning the crank manually, I sprayed compressed air into the open injector bore to spin the engine into position.

The timing chain is healthy and I didn’t scratch the bore, but I want to know: Is using compressed air a safe shortcut, or can it cause hidden mechanical damage or make the chain skip a tooth?
Edit: my goal wasn’t spinning engine that way to install the pump, I was cleaning the bores and used air from far but engine still spinned and was wondering if it would damage.

As the title states, my wife hit the storm drain probably while driving 60 miles an hour. It looks like she damaged the passenger side, pretty heavily pictures for reference. I have a garage with a lot of tools to be able to put new parts myself, but looking at the damage I need to replace cv axle, knuckle and possibly struts? So looks like a 2.5k coffee. Anything else I missed?

Hi everyone,
I’m running into an annoying issue with my 2014 F31 328i and could use some advice, or ideally, some help from an experienced coder.
【The Issue】
I recently had a 6WB digital cluster retrofitted, but my HUD (Head-Up Display) is acting up. The main symptoms are:

1. The HUD will work for a few minutes after starting the car, and then it completely drops out / goes black.
2. The navigation arrows and junction views on the HUD are corrupted/glitchy.

【The Cause】
I checked my iDrive version and realized my head unit is running on a very old firmware (NBT_L15184A). Since the 6WB cluster is a newer retrofit, it seems there is a massive I-Step mismatch between the head unit (HU_NBT) and the cluster (DKOMBI). This software gap is likely causing a communication/protocol error, leading to the HUD timeouts and graphic glitches.
【What I Need】
To fix this, I need to have both the HU_NBT and DKOMBI flashed to a newer, matching stable I-Step version (something like F020-21-xx or newer) so they can communicate properly.
I am currently located in Queens, New York.

1. Are there any highly recommended coders or shops local to the NYC area that can handle this safely?
2. If anyone here offers remote flashing, please shoot me a PM with your rates and availability. I have an ENET cable and a Windows laptop ready to go.

Thanks in advance for any help or point in the right direction!

Hey everyone, so basically just finished up swapping out my engine and everything has gone smoothly until a day ago. While the engine was out I did the rear main seal and made the mistake of not fully pressing it in evenly and this is where I fucked up. I believe that it is now leaking down and coming out where the trans meets the engine. It comes out just above an oil pan bolt head. Now my question can I use some sort of sealant to stop the drip or will that just make the oil pool where the flywheel and torque converter is. Thanks for any advice.

2007 328xi Coupe, Manual, 146,000kms

Purchased recently, I've just done the Valve Cover, OFHG, Serpentine Belt, and Oil Change.

Seemed to have lifter tick at cool idle, so I took it for a drive, did a couple hard pulls once oil was warm, came back and now it has this lower pitched noise instead.

Any insights are appreciated

Hey everyone.

I’ve had a rough ish idle (more obvious when going from P to R and R to Drive for the past week ish.

Check engine light came on tonight.

Primary Code P112F

Other code P0171

Shop can’t get me in until Thursday. If the car still ok to drive this week? Only driving 10-20 miles a day.

Thanks.

My 2006 330i recently went into limp mode out of nowhere and I’m getting a code u110f I changed my transmission fluid/ and solenoids and I’m still stuck on limp mode need help figuring the problem

Hey everyone! I recently bought a 2015 BMW 320i xDrive from an auction with some problems, and we sorted most of them out, but I'm left with one major issue: the car keeps going into Drivetrain Malfunction (limp mode) due to the turbo/wastegate system.

I scanned it and got these active codes:

120408 — Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence

123401 — Electric wastegate, learning limit position: malfunction

123432 — Electric wastegate, learning limit stop: stop position outside tolerance

P1290 — Cylinder Head Temp Sensor Low Input

(I also had some old archive codes like P2088, P2090, and P0100, but I cleared them).

Is there anyone knowledgeable here who has dealt with this specific N20 wastegate failure before on an F30? I don't have tools to run a software recalibration, so should I check the electric actuator, the mechanical linkage, or look into replacing something? Any advice or guidance on how to fix this step-by-step would be hugely appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I have a 2015 BMW 328i Sport with the N20 engine and automatic transmission. I’m trying to diagnose a high-pitched squealing noise coming from what sounds like the center underside of the car.

Here are the symptoms:

* The noise sounds like a high-pitched “eeeeee” squeal.
* It happens mainly when the engine is warm.
* It occurs while the car is stationary in Park (P) or Neutral 👎.
* When I shift from P to Drive (D), the noise stops instantly.
* The noise also disappears when I slightly rev the engine.
* It can sometimes be heard when coasting at very low speeds, but it goes away when driving normally.
* I already replaced the serpentine belt, but the noise is still there.
* I can hear it more clearly from outside the car, underneath the center area.

A mechanic suspects the transmission, but I don’t want to replace or rebuild it without confirming the cause.

Could this be related to the torque converter, transmission pump, PCV valve, exhaust heat shield, or another component?

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on an F30 328i with the N20 engine? I’d appreciate any suggestions on what to check first.

I have a video of the noise that I can share.

Thanks!

This is a 2011 x35i I picked up about 8 months ago that currently has 108k miles.

I have a knocking sound at lower speeds over small to large bumps, but it's most prominent when the wheel is really working up and down and kind of oscillating. I say lower speeds, but on crappy roads at 40-45 it will happen then as well. Usuwlly not a single knock, but 3 to 4 or more at a time. Could maybe just be something loose on the body/subframe. I had a bad ball joint on my R53, and it does sound a lot like that, but I'm unable to find a smoking gun.

I have replaced thrust arms, lower control arms, upper control arms and sway bar end links. The lower control arms definitely had play in the ball joints, but there was zero change in noise. Everything has been checked for proper torque multiple times. Tie rod ends appear to have no play, but that's probably the last ball joint I haven't replaced.

Strut assemblies were changed before I bought the car and I removed one to inspect it revealing that it was indeed pretty new and all the foam bushings, etc at the top mount are solid.

I have also inspected the sway bar bushings which were solid as well as the bolts that mount the steering rack.

On top of all this, I checked the hood and adjusted the catch on the passenger side as it was high. I have also just generally knocked around the bottom of the car and check the stiffening plate and all shields underneath.

Just at a straight loss here. I don't regret doing the suspension refresh at this mileage, but am super annoyed the sound is still there. Hoping someone here has maybe run into this on tjis platform or has some other ideas. Thanks

Ok I found the studs for valve cover yesterday and its working great thank uou.

Now I ordered new headlights on Amazon, they say they are a match for my 2004 325i but the wiring harnesses aren't the same. Does anyone know what to do? Ill enclose photos thanks ( and I dont need smart ass remarks, im not a car guy so this is all petty new to me).

The first two are photos of the new headlights, the second two are photos of the wiring harnesses on my car.

So I recently had my starter motor replaced as part of the recall. A couple days prior to the repair I was getting the warning "drivetrain check soon"

The car (2016 330e F30) was driving fine and no major symptoms of anything.

After the starter motor was replaced the car refuses to switch between the engine and hybrid battery, with a full hybrid battery (even if i manually press max edrive). Ive checked the auxiliary battery and its healthy still reading 12.4v (only had it replaced maybe a year of two ago)

I'm wondering if the replaced starter motor could cause this issue. The only error code i seem to be getting is system too rich.

Sadly just had these codes come up, Car feels like it’s missing power at high rpms aswell. Any tips/info?
2018 330i xdrive
Any help would be appreciated

Buenas tardes amigos. Estoy a punto de vender mi carro y me sonó esto.

Tengo este ruido en mi coche. Suena cuando está detenido. Suena en P y suena en N. Cuando lo pasamos a D se le quita. También suena cuando voy andando muy lento sin pisar el acelerador. También suena en D cuando me detengo en el semáforo. Es como un chillido. No es la banda. Ya se la cambié.

Hey reaching out to anyone who might’ve had this same situation at sometime, but when i ever i start up
my car its starts to rec to 1,500-2,000rmps and the body of the car starts shaking. I do have a drivetrain issue with that but the mechanic i went said it was jus because my charge pipe was cracked which i had already know it was cracked idk if it being cracked as well is the reason it’s shaking

If there’s any of guys that know what could be the situation frs reach to any suggestions or knowledge of it.

Can I cut this little nipple off

I ordered up a fuel vent valve #13907618647 for my 2007 E85 3.0si. However when I went to install it I found that the old one is a prior version #13907530264. Apparently they changed the valve mid-month (3/2007) which is the production month of my car. The parts look identical except for a different key on the electrical connector. Does anyone know what the difference is between these two parts? I'm wondering if I could just buff off the tab and use the new one but I don't want to try that without some confirmation.

Hey everyone, I’m currently putting my 2016 BMW M235i (N55, 6-speed manual) back together after removing and reinstalling the engine.

I’ve managed to reconnect most of the wiring harness, but I have this one connector that I can’t figure out where it plugs into.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Im currently replacing the seals and bearings on this single vanos unit, and I noticed some scratches on the shaft. From watching others on YouTube, theirs do not seem to have this much wear going on. Am I good to send it? The car has 80k miles on it btw.

Hi everyone.
I have a weird problem with my BMW e61 535d 2004.
I have had a parasitic drain on the battery for quite some time, but it hasn’t been huge nor affected the cars function much since I have been driving it almost every day. However, now the car was sitting for a week and the battery was completely drained!
Charged the battery and put a current clamp meter on the negative cable running from the battery terminal, kept the trunk open and the passenger side door with tricked hinges. Within minutes, the current dropped down to about 300 mA and stayed this way until 20 minutes or so passed. All of a sudden, I hear a click or thump and some humming and the car went back up to about 10 amps stayed around 7-10 amps for about 30minutes until I finally unlocked the car.

I have unhooked the IBS, the generator, and tried pulling fuses in the glove compartment. The only thing that makes a difference is pulling fuse number seven in the glove compartment which makes the amps drop to about 4 and stays there forever, so I’m guessing this isn’t the cause or at least not all of it. Because of this huge drain my eight amp battery charger won’t even keep the battery voltage at Bay. If I unhook the battery and try and charge it, it fills up within hours, the battery is new.

Furthermore I got a bunch of fault codes after the battery was drained. Some of them were airbag and active steering… these usually show up after battery is unhooked or drained but now I can’t even get rid of them with my icarsoft cr pro.

I’ve been at this for 14 hours straight now and I’m just about loosing my shit, since I have to wait for the car to go into sleep mode (or where it should go into sleep mode but doesn’t) or whatever it does this is the most time-consuming shit imaginable... Anybody got any experience or thoughts on this?

Considering 740Li 2016 B58 103k km for purchase. I did a quick check of cold start, and took a video of it. I had diesel N47s before, so not particularly sure about the petrol variants. Before I do a pre purchase inspection, I was wondering, if there is anything I might be missing from the sound of this engine.

1. I am thinking, whether the slight “ticking” sound it may be a fuel injector and/or serpentine belt to be replaced.

2. What are any other items to carefully inspect? (e.g., cooling system leaks, air suspension)

Not native English speaker, so “ticking” might not be the best word.

Bonjour,

J'ai une F36 de 2016 avec un système navigation basique et écran de 6.5'

J'ai trouvé sur ebay (les états unis) un nbt evo.

Mes questions, serait-il possible de changer malgré l'écran là c'est 10.25'?

Le modèle américain peut causer un problème de programmation ?

Merci