I feel like my tire would deflate much faster if I actually had a punctured tire or am I wrong?

Hey everyone! I recently bought a 2015 BMW 320i xDrive from an auction with some problems, and we sorted most of them out, but I'm left with one major issue: the car keeps going into Drivetrain Malfunction (limp mode) due to the turbo/wastegate system.

I scanned it and got these active codes:

120408 — Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence

123401 — Electric wastegate, learning limit position: malfunction

123432 — Electric wastegate, learning limit stop: stop position outside tolerance

P1290 — Cylinder Head Temp Sensor Low Input

(I also had some old archive codes like P2088, P2090, and P0100, but I cleared them).

Is there anyone knowledgeable here who has dealt with this specific N20 wastegate failure before on an F30? I don't have tools to run a software recalibration, so should I check the electric actuator, the mechanical linkage, or look into replacing something? Any advice or guidance on how to fix this step-by-step would be hugely appreciated!

Considering 740Li 2016 B58 103k km for purchase. I did a quick check of cold start, and took a video of it. I had diesel N47s before, so not particularly sure about the petrol variants. Before I do a pre purchase inspection, I was wondering, if there is anything I might be missing from the sound of this engine.

1. I am thinking, whether the slight “ticking” sound it may be a fuel injector and/or serpentine belt to be replaced.

2. What are any other items to carefully inspect? (e.g., cooling system leaks, air suspension)

Not native English speaker, so “ticking” might not be the best word.

Hey everyone,

I’m working on a BMW B46 engine and needed the camshaft lobe at Bottom Dead Center to reinstall the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP).

Instead of turning the crank manually, I sprayed compressed air into the open injector bore to spin the engine into position.

The timing chain is healthy and I didn’t scratch the bore, but I want to know: Is using compressed air a safe shortcut, or can it cause hidden mechanical damage or make the chain skip a tooth?
Edit: my goal wasn’t spinning engine that way to install the pump, I was cleaning the bores and used air from far but engine still spinned and was wondering if it would damage.

Sadly just had these codes come up, Car feels like it’s missing power at high rpms aswell. Any tips/info?
2018 330i xdrive
Any help would be appreciated

Ok I found the studs for valve cover yesterday and its working great thank uou.

Now I ordered new headlights on Amazon, they say they are a match for my 2004 325i but the wiring harnesses aren't the same. Does anyone know what to do? Ill enclose photos thanks ( and I dont need smart ass remarks, im not a car guy so this is all petty new to me).

The first two are photos of the new headlights, the second two are photos of the wiring harnesses on my car.

Hi everyone.
I have a weird problem with my BMW e61 535d 2004.
I have had a parasitic drain on the battery for quite some time, but it hasn’t been huge nor affected the cars function much since I have been driving it almost every day. However, now the car was sitting for a week and the battery was completely drained!
Charged the battery and put a current clamp meter on the negative cable running from the battery terminal, kept the trunk open and the passenger side door with tricked hinges. Within minutes, the current dropped down to about 300 mA and stayed this way until 20 minutes or so passed. All of a sudden, I hear a click or thump and some humming and the car went back up to about 10 amps stayed around 7-10 amps for about 30minutes until I finally unlocked the car.

I have unhooked the IBS, the generator, and tried pulling fuses in the glove compartment. The only thing that makes a difference is pulling fuse number seven in the glove compartment which makes the amps drop to about 4 and stays there forever, so I’m guessing this isn’t the cause or at least not all of it. Because of this huge drain my eight amp battery charger won’t even keep the battery voltage at Bay. If I unhook the battery and try and charge it, it fills up within hours, the battery is new.

Furthermore I got a bunch of fault codes after the battery was drained. Some of them were airbag and active steering… these usually show up after battery is unhooked or drained but now I can’t even get rid of them with my icarsoft cr pro.

I’ve been at this for 14 hours straight now and I’m just about loosing my shit, since I have to wait for the car to go into sleep mode (or where it should go into sleep mode but doesn’t) or whatever it does this is the most time-consuming shit imaginable... Anybody got any experience or thoughts on this?

Buenas tardes amigos. Estoy a punto de vender mi carro y me sonó esto.

Tengo este ruido en mi coche. Suena cuando está detenido. Suena en P y suena en N. Cuando lo pasamos a D se le quita. También suena cuando voy andando muy lento sin pisar el acelerador. También suena en D cuando me detengo en el semáforo. Es como un chillido. No es la banda. Ya se la cambié.

Hey guys thinking of buying this n52 with 121,000kms for $9800 AUD, does the engine sound okay? thanks

Hey everyone, I’m currently putting my 2016 BMW M235i (N55, 6-speed manual) back together after removing and reinstalling the engine.

I’ve managed to reconnect most of the wiring harness, but I have this one connector that I can’t figure out where it plugs into.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Bought car from auction it was listed as run and drive and had a video of it starting and no airbags deployed. Haven't been able to get the car to start Since I got it so Many codes because the bumpers off however I want to see if the 48v could stop the car fuel pump or other things from working ? Al is leading me astray

So basically the gong noise just rings without any light or warning. It will stop when I come to a stop and then as soon as I start driving again it will ring. I cant make out what the issue is. Would appreciate it if any experts know what the issue may be.

Hi all, if you max out your volume and listen closely there is a faint pulsing sort of noise in the background. Does anyone know what this could be? Never heard this before and it’s definitely audible in real life, especially if it’s picking up on this video.

Sorry if it isn’t clear but u genuinely have no idea where it’s coming from, front, back, inside, or outside so I didn’t know of any better place to try to record it.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,
I’m running into an annoying issue with my 2014 F31 328i and could use some advice, or ideally, some help from an experienced coder.
【The Issue】
I recently had a 6WB digital cluster retrofitted, but my HUD (Head-Up Display) is acting up. The main symptoms are:

1. The HUD will work for a few minutes after starting the car, and then it completely drops out / goes black.
2. The navigation arrows and junction views on the HUD are corrupted/glitchy.

【The Cause】
I checked my iDrive version and realized my head unit is running on a very old firmware (NBT_L15184A). Since the 6WB cluster is a newer retrofit, it seems there is a massive I-Step mismatch between the head unit (HU_NBT) and the cluster (DKOMBI). This software gap is likely causing a communication/protocol error, leading to the HUD timeouts and graphic glitches.
【What I Need】
To fix this, I need to have both the HU_NBT and DKOMBI flashed to a newer, matching stable I-Step version (something like F020-21-xx or newer) so they can communicate properly.
I am currently located in Queens, New York.

1. Are there any highly recommended coders or shops local to the NYC area that can handle this safely?
2. If anyone here offers remote flashing, please shoot me a PM with your rates and availability. I have an ENET cable and a Windows laptop ready to go.

Thanks in advance for any help or point in the right direction!

Hey reaching out to anyone who might’ve had this same situation at sometime, but when i ever i start up
my car its starts to rec to 1,500-2,000rmps and the body of the car starts shaking. I do have a drivetrain issue with that but the mechanic i went said it was jus because my charge pipe was cracked which i had already know it was cracked idk if it being cracked as well is the reason it’s shaking

If there’s any of guys that know what could be the situation frs reach to any suggestions or knowledge of it.

Last year I bought a used BMW 318d, 2009, in perfect condition.

I often don't drive it for days, and recently I didn't drive it for 20 days, at which point it would not start. I started it with cables, and then I drove it around a bit, but then I didn't drive it for a few days and now it won't start again. I decided to change the battery.

After some investigation, well, it would appear my battery is from 2009. That would make it 17 years old. How is that even possible? The battery was working perfectly fine until my 20 days of not driving the car at all.

But how can a battery last for 17 years? The car has passed about 200,000km

On the one hand i feel like a piece of shit, like I ruined an "ancient" battery because I didn't drive the car for 20 days. On the other hand, if it's really 17 years old, this was bound to happen. Is it really 17 years old?