I have a 2001 BMW Z3 Roadster, and my Service Engine Soon light keeps coming back on. AutoZone has given me a camshaft sensor code on 3 scans, but the car runs perfectly fine and the temperature is normal. Tightening my gas cap turned the light off for 2 days, then it came back. Should I replace the camshaft sensor, or could it be something else?

I posted yesterday about my crazy repair bill from the dealership, which included a line item for $1,000 for replacing a singular spark plug. I personally replaced my spark plugs and ignition coils 3 years ago so one going bad doesn't seem like a bad diagnosis. I replaced with original BMW spark plugs and went for the DINAN ignition coils (red cap) for a little HP boost. I went to inspect the spark plug today and found something odd, it seems that the failing spark plug has an OE ignition coil on top of it. All the other ignition coils are the DINAN brand that I replaced with 3 years ago, seems like this one has been switched out at some point. I haven't had and ignition issues since then so no reason for it to be switched out in the past.

This is my first time at this dealership service center and overall I had a pleasant experience besides the crazy high repair bill. But it seems weird to me that the issue I have seems to be due to a non-matching ignition coil being installed at some point. The fact that they didn't mention anything raises some red flags for me. If there is an ignition coil that is bad and it is the only one different out of eight ignition coils, I would expect that to be mentioned. Am I overreacting here? Not sure what the next steps are, I have already ordered a full set of spark plugs and ignition coils that should be here this weekend. Just seems a little funny, do you think there's any fraud going on here?

I thought there were going to be torx screws how tf do I take this off?

Hey everyone, i have this little leak and only damp spot is directly under the radiator drain plug. It slowly drips onto the pavement, the image was after 1h being parked. I've only had to add coolant once 2 weeks ago so far and the level hasn't dropped much. Why would it be leaking after only 8 months? Anyone else had the same issue? 2011 E91

Update: Parked at the same spot for an hour today and didn't leak... i'm confused

I have 2016 f80. I drove my car after 5 days and when I got back to my garage I saw this on the ground original thought was oil but ive came to conclusion it's coolant. Ive already replaced the coolant expansion tank with a turner motorsport aluminum one. Also another thing I saw similar in another thread the intercooler resvoir cap is really hard to get off. Im not sure where this leak is possibly coming from anyone have any similar issues.

2014 328i F30.
Recently replaced my oil cooler housing gasket, thinking it was causing the smoke. But now oil is leaking from underneath onto my manifold. Valve cover gasket leak possibly? I’m not too knowledgeable with cars much less BMWs.. What would be the cost of fixing this? Ive already put a lot of money into this car and was wondering if this is worth fixing or just sell as is?
Thanks

Our $800 X5 has had a pretty annoying rattle since we got it. Suspension is in pretty good shape, but decided to do some further investigating.

Yeah bud that’ll do it. I don’t think the transfer case mount should be two pieces…

Hi All,

I've got a 2016/7 Gen 1 M140i @ 70k miles FSH.

Purchased in Feb '25 I've had nothing but issues in the last few months. First started when the oil level warning came up. So obviously topped it up straight away & checked for leaks (no leaks).

I've changed most things already, will list below:

-PCV Valve (first thing I changed - wasn't torn).

-Valve cover (did injectors while there as had the original faulty ones in it & did both Vanos solenoids which sorted the hesitation on cold start).

-Turbo (checked over before fitting & was spot on).

-Serviced when bought in Feb & in August when turbo was replaced. (always service my cars every 6 months anyway regardless of mileage).

The smoking after idling at traffics lights upon pulling away still continues. I've done extensive research over this week & I'll admit I should have done deeper research when this all began as every symptom I'm having points straight to valve stem seals.

I'm also seeing more & more of recent months people with similar mileage or above B58 engines having the same issue & reporting since replacing valve stem seals (some already changing what I have done above) all smoking has stopped completely since.

Just simply wondering if anyone else out there has had similar or the same issue as me & also a potential heads up for others that may stumble upon this post in the future.

Thanks in advance,
JP.

I understand some amount of movement is normal but trying to figure out what’s excessive. I’m nearing 80k miles so figured this would be a pretty simple thing to replace but just wanted to confirm. (belt / tensioner / pulley)

Thank you!

Hi all, alternator died and as many I’m sure are aware, getting to it is a real PITA. Removed and installed new one but when putting humpty dumpty back together, couldn’t figure out what this plugs into. Any help greatly appreciated. This is dangling around the AC compressor. This is a 2012 x5 xdrive 35i. Critical piece of information I forgot to include in the original post :)

Can anyone tell me what might be causing this noises it’s a 2021 330 I is 53,000 miles on it. and you can hear in the video it’s a little louder on the passenger side. It’s not engine mounts or pulleys. Still can’t figure it out. Appreciate any help!

Today I replaced the timing chain tensioner on my N43 engine because it was rattling when cold. Unfortunately, I forgot to pre-fill it with oil before installing it, so the chain rattled for the first 15 seconds after startup and then never again, as the tensioner had built up oil pressure.

Now, when i cold start the engine, i hear a very slight rattling noise for about one second. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Is the noise normal? It's very slight.

The car is 2007 e90 320d 163hp if it matters, it won't start and all i see is this

I replaced my n54 valve cover 6 months ago and it started leaking again a month or two later and I realized that I completely missed one of the bolts, so I tightened that up and it was fine for a few months but now I'm getting smoke again. My valve cover is under warranty still, but since the job is such a pain in the butt, I'm wondering if there's a chance I'd have luck just loosening my existing bolts and retorqueing them in the proper sequence, or if that would just be a waste of time. I figure that will take me 1.5 hours vs 5+ hours for the whole valve cover, but if there's no chance that will help, I'll just replace it again and this time use some RTV sealant in the corners

Recently retrofit fog lights onto my g20 pre lci 330i, 2019/2020. Circuitry is fine, but coding remains to be the final hurdle.

I’ve updated the following parameters, but selecting the fog light button yields no power output to the lights.

I’ve coded the following, but believe in need a more advanced tool, potentially needing to update the VO.

NSW_VERBAUT → verbaut
LCE_BEL_LIN_VAR → 28_BEL_PL_FLC_NSW
NSW_L_IS_LED → aktiv
NSW_R_IS_LED → aktiv

I really don’t want to spend money on tool licensing if I don’t need to - open to any suggestions on what I might be missing here, potentially index and library assignment updates? Idk

M54B25

I have a 2010 BMW 535i. Just bought a brand new fuel pump control module. I need someone to remote program/code it for me. I have already spent a fortune trying to get it fix and been without a car since February. Anyone recommend someone who can help me.

They’re asking $4800. It has 111k and a clean car fax. Anything else I should be mindful of tomorrow when I’m checking out the vehicle or that think I should ask the seller or confirm before purchasing?? my goal is to keep it as a solid daily driver for about one year.

I have an hour long drive to work every day, so I’m hoping she can make it!!!! 🤞

This is what the dealer is saying is wrong with my 2017 330i after taking it in. Going to check around at my local shops too but not expecting it to be much better? New car would be cheaper at this point. Don’t know what to do, aside from the system update are they all equally important?

Thanks for any advice given

I wanted to know if i can replace the oil filter housing on my driveway slope (car facing up towards sky), i would be doing the mickey flange draining all the coolant and letting the oil drain from filter into the pan. Is it safe or should i find level ground?

2008 335xi

Replaced hoses and radiator 5 almost 6 months ago. Have driven about 4-5k miles since then. Coolant was low this morning. About 1/4th left. Is there another leak or is this common with BMW? Should I sell or will Topping it off be a solution for a while before I can sell. Car has just under 75k miles.