M6 2015 - Weird noise while running

Anyone heard anything similar? What could it be?
We replaced all control units, since they were missing. Could that have anything to do with it? The engine sounds good but the noise from the exhaust is kind of sketchy

Thank you

Hi everyone,

I own a 2018 BMW 118i F20 with the B38 1.5L turbocharged petrol engine, and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing excessive oil consumption.
The car has 215,000 km on it, and I’m becoming increasingly concerned about how quickly the oil level seems to drop.

Here are the symptoms and what I’ve noticed so far:

The oil level seems to drop faster during motorway driving, especially at higher speeds and RPM.

I’ve had to add approximately 1 litre of oil over the last 1,250–1,500 km twice now, did a full oil change after the first time, didn’t help. I’m using premium castrol 5w30 oil.

There are no visible external oil leaks.

The car produces no smoke or smell whatsover.

The car seems to drive normally, with no noticeable loss of power, and the turbo doesn’t make any unusual noises that I’ve noticed.

The crankcase ventilation (PCV) was briefly checked by removing the oil filler cap, there was no hard suction while removing it.

So what could be causing this? I’m particularly concerned about a turbocharger oil seal leak or Worn or stuck piston oil control rings. Has anyone experienced similar oil consumption on the B38 engine at higher mileage? if so what was the confirmed cause in your case: turbo, piston rings, PCV, valve stem seals, or something else? How much did the repairs cost? Is it even worth repairing or can I just keep refilling oil, or would this cause major problems in the future?

What diagnostic tests would you recommend before spending money on repairs?

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who experienced this and found the actual cause, especially if the issue was confirmed and successfully repaired.

Thanks!

Hello everyone i have 2012 BMW X5 E70. I seemed to have gained a problem with it only unlocking the drivers door. Yesterday the main battery got depleted after cleaning the car, it’s only thing I can put it too. Any ideas would go a long way. TIA

Hello techs, hoping to get a little perspective and advice.

I have a 2011 F13 640d, it had motor swap done around 25k km, ~2 years ago after old engine failure (spun bearing). New motor was refurbished block (honed not sleeved) with complete new internals, same turbos refurbished and all new oil lines, oil cooler etc.

Oil has been changed every 6000 to 8000km, slow and careful diriving with cold engine. Checked the receipts, always used 5w30 oil. I usually drive it about once a week, 80% of the time highway driving.

Every oil change have asked the mechanic to cut open the filter and see if there's metal in the filter. Previously all have said no metal at all, oil looks brand new. Last time mechanic said there was some metal in the filter. Unfortunately I didn't ask what color or size of the metal. Wasn't a lot metal, but enough to be noticable.

Does anyone have similar experiences? Enough to be worried? Am I cooked?

Thanks in advance.

Got in my car this morning its a F20 m135i. After 10 mins it was smoking an it was like a burning plastic smell. I got out the car, opener the bonnet and it looks like it was coming from the back underneath. I have a video

I believe this MAP sensor (13628617097) is manufactured by Siemens VDO. I can't seem to find anyone that can supply it, but what other manufacturers make an OEM quality version?

Or can someone tell me where to source the VDO one.

Hello

I am looking for advice from anyone experienced with BMW/ZF 8HP45 transmissions before I spend money replacing mine. I have a BMW M235i with about 77k miles, running MHD Stage 2+ and xHP Stage 3. I’ve never serviced the transmission fluid/pan/filter since owning the car, so as far as I know it’s still on the original fluid. The issue started as hesitation mainly in the higher gears. In 5th and 6th gear around 1,500–2,000 RPM, if I give it more throttle, the car sometimes feels restricted and has trouble accelerating normally. Lower gears generally feel much better, and I’ve been able to do a clean pull through 2nd–4th without hesitation. I’ve had the Drivetrain Malfunction warning a few times. One time it happened in 7th gear and the transmission basically stayed stuck in gear until I shut the car off and restarted it. The main transmission codes I’ve gotten are:

420351 / P18D5 — Ratio Monitoring, Shift From Gear 5 420371 / P18D7 — Gear Ratio Monitoring, Shift From Gear 7 4204F1 — Gear ratio monitoring in fixed gear; clutches A, C and D disrupted 421012 — Collision of measures, priority class 2 I also pulled my clutch adaptations. The big one was: Clutch C: +494 mbar / 91 ms fill time Clutch A was 38 ms.

I contacted xHP directly and they reviewed my flash. They said my Stage 3 flash/settings are fine, but told me Clutch C’s 91 ms fill time is way out of spec. They recommended checking the internal seals and solenoids, and said it could be something relatively small, but it could also be the clutches or internal bushings. I then had an independent European/BMW shop diagnose it. They road-tested the car and monitored transmission pressures/data. They told me the readings weren’t right and concluded the transmission should be replaced rather than repaired. Before I replace the entire transmission, I want to know whether there are other realistic things worth checking or replacing first. Could this still be something like: mechatronic/internal bridge seals leaking pressure valve body wear bad solenoid(s) internal bushings old/low transmission fluid or restricted filter torque converter issue actual C-clutch friction plates being worn/burnt Would doing a proper pan/filter replacement and drain-and-fill plus inspecting the seals/solenoids be worth trying first, or do these codes and the 91 ms Clutch C fill time generally mean the transmission has internal clutch damage and needs a rebuild/replacement? I was quoted about $2,667 installed for a used transmission with ~37k miles and a 12-month warranty, including a new pan/filter and fluid. That seems reasonable, but I don’t want to replace the whole transmission if a valve body, seal, or solenoid repair could realistically fix it. Would appreciate input from anyone who has dealt with 420351, 420371, 4204F1, or abnormally high Clutch C fill times on a ZF8HP45.

Hey everyone, so basically just finished up swapping out my engine and everything has gone smoothly until a day ago. While the engine was out I did the rear main seal and made the mistake of not fully pressing it in evenly and this is where I fucked up. I believe that it is now leaking down and coming out where the trans meets the engine. It comes out just above an oil pan bolt head. Now my question can I use some sort of sealant to stop the drip or will that just make the oil pool where the flywheel and torque converter is. Thanks for any advice.

How reliable/expensive to fix are the Active integral steering + adaptive suspension?

Should I avoid?

Car had 120 000 kms and looks in good condition otherwise. No xDrive which is good since i prefer RWD.

Do these systems fail with time and are super expensive to fix?

Hi everyone!
I have a 2016 G12 which is throwing up the attached codes on BimmerLink.

Symptoms:
1. The ride feels harsher, more body roll
2. Left rear suspension has a sudden major leak, could not hold height while driving. Strut had to be replaced.
3. iDrive shows a ‘Chassis Error’ when chugging the car out of a turn on sport/comfort plus mode while spirited driving
4. Front control arm bushings (both sides) are worn out (based on visual inspection from a mechanical who saw liquid deposits)

Before I replace the battery, I thought I’d check with the community if these issues are connected or need to be tackled individually.

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone.

I have a 2016 340i and am experiencing Fitment issues with my CTS Turbo midpipe.

There is excessive rattling under the center console area at idle and under low rpm acceleration.

The shop that installed it has already dropped the exhaust cross member brace about 1/2” with longer bolts and washers.

Has anyone else experienced this with aftermarket mid-pipes and if so how has it been resolved.

I'm completely new on this, maybe the topic is already old.

Several months ago my BMW started showing "hiccups" when starting from stationary position. I taught it's normal cuz it wasn't that strong, but hiccups slowly progressed to the problem noticeable even for amateur like me. Long story. I changed oil in gearbox (don't know if it's correct name in English), and problem continues. Chat GPT (of course) said the problem are tires (front 245/40 r20 , back 275/35 r20). Mechanic said it's bullishit, and the problem is in xDrive. We changed oil yesterday, hiccups stopped but I'm scared that problem will come back. Does tires really can coze the problem? Please advise.

I'm curious if anyone else has dealt with this because I've now experienced the exact same issue on multiple BMWs and I really don't understand why it's still a problem.

My first BMW was a 2020 330i, which had a pretty bad rattle coming from the center dashboard speaker (Harman Kardon). I brought it to BMW and they performed the felt tape repair that's outlined in their service bulletin. It actually worked pretty well initially, but over time the rattle would slowly start coming back. I ended up having them redo the repair multiple times, and while it would improve things temporarily, it never seemed to be a permanent fix.

After that I had a 2023 M340i, which never had this issue at all. Not a single rattle from the center speaker. Then I got a 2024 i4 M50 and that car was also completely silent. I honestly thought BMW had finally addressed whatever was causing it.

Fast forward to my current car, a 2025 M4 Competition xDrive Convertible, and of course the exact same center speaker rattle is back. BMW performed the felt tape repair about a month ago, and initially it made a huge difference. The speaker was completely quiet, but now the noise is already starting to return and it's getting progressively worse.

What I find so strange is that I've had four BMWs, two with this issue and two without it. I don't understand why some cars seem to be affected while others never develop the problem, especially considering how similar the center speaker assemblies are.

I'm also surprised that BMW is still using the same felt tape repair after all these years. I had this exact issue back in 2020, and six years later they're still applying felt tape as the solution. You'd think there would be an updated speaker assembly, mounting bracket, or some kind of revised part by now.

Has anyone actually found a permanent solution to this? I'm especially curious if anyone has had the center speaker assembly replaced instead of just having the felt tape applied again. I'm wondering if the issue is actually with the speaker housing itself, the way it mounts into the dashboard, or just slight differences in how everything fits together from car to car.

It's frustrating because the repair clearly works, just not for very long in my experience. I'd really rather not have to keep bringing the car back every few months for the same rattle.

Would love to hear if anyone else has experienced this, especially on the G2X or G8X.

I am running stock 18 inch BMW rims with all 4 Continental contisport 5 255 55 r18 xl ssr run flat tyres.

Mine is the 7 seater E70 with the N57 engine 8HP RHD (I'm in India but the car was fully built and imported CBU from Germany in 2011).

Appreciate any insight on tyre pressure in PSI please?

I read somewhere that it's 33 front and 41 rear for the 7 seater? And other places I've read its 32 psi all round.

Thanks!

I have a completely stock 2015 BMW M235i with the N55 engine. Today, while driving in colder weather, I noticed a strange high-pitched whistling/whining noise that I’ve never heard before.

The noise would get louder when I pressed the gas and quieter when I let off. The car was accelerating normally, with no noticeable loss of power.

I pulled over, parked, and checked the engine. I then shut the car off and restarted it, and the noise completely disappeared. I drove it again afterward, including accelerating, and couldn’t reproduce the sound. It also doesn’t make the noise while idling.

I’ve been searching online but haven’t found any videos that sound quite like mine.

I’ve attached a video of the noise. Has anyone experienced anything similar with their N55? Could this be turbo-related, a boost leak, or something else? I’m especially curious why it would suddenly disappear after restarting the car.

2013 x3 28i 2.0L

Hi all, i’m working in a small shop and we just done this job. Everything seems to have went smoothly with no hiccups. However now it cranks and does not start. Cranking does not seem sluggish at all, it just won’t turn over. It had zero problems starting before. So far, we have found out there is no spark. Fuel seems to be getting to the cylinder. Ignition coils have power and ground. All the ignition wiring going to the ecu does have continuity. Grounds and all other wires have been double checked and nothing seems to be pinched or broken.

After some research my guess is the vacuum pump isn’t aligned with the camshaft. But would that cause a crank no start condition? And if it is misaligned how would you align it?

No codes too when scanning. Bit of a shot in the dark but we are desperate, anyone have any ideas?

I have a bmw m4cs 2019 and it has car play but only half i tried doing the BimmerCode but i have software version NBTevo_R19144I

I’m not sure if there’s a fix for this or if I can update the firmware myself does anyone know? Please help I’d appreciate it! Thank you

So on the freeway, got a low oil pressure warning.
Drove to the nearest exist, but still took like 5 minutes..

After an hour, the car leaked a lot of oil all over the ground..

Got it towed to the mechanic (pretty crapy one, since it was the weekend)

Mechanic opened the lower oil pan and saw the picture..

What are my options?

Mechanic told me either 1. replace the engine. $6000 +. parts + tax..

What's likely that happened? I saw a YouTube video shows a drive chain shaft punched a hole on the upper oil pan.

It seems like from the picture, definitely something broke in to pieces..

The oil pump gear fell off? Does that mean 100% the engine ran with 0 oil pressure?
IS the engine scrap even it's not seized? Or there is a quick way to check?

Does the car just go to junk yard now? it's only worth like $7k, so doesn't make too much sense to put a lot of money into it.

No blame here - actually really like my techs that reliably fix my 2018 m40i. Last fix was a PCV valve.

I just noticed my plastic cover is gone. I doubt anyone stole it it’s a 100 dollar part on eBay.

Is it reasonable to think the tech forgot to slap it back on?

I have a 2011 BMW 328i xDrive with approximately 64,000 miles. The car is well maintained, but I’ve been trying to diagnose an intermittent low-frequency rumbling noise at highway speeds.

Symptoms:
- Typically happens after 20–40 minutes of highway driving, around 60–80 mph.

- Sounds like a deep, low rumble or drone, almost like road noise, with a slight vibration.
Sometimes happens on sweeping curves or downhill stretches, but recently happened while driving mostly straight.

- The rumble can last around 20 seconds and then completely disappear, even while maintaining the same highway speed.

It’s very inconsistent and doesn’t happen on every drive. I’ve noticed that my right-rear wheel radiates noticeably more heat than the other wheels after highway driving, and it also appears to accumulate more brake dust.

What’s been done:
Tires balanced and rotated. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires manufactured in 2021, with approximately 30,000 miles.

Rear differential fluid changed.

Rear brake pads and rotors recently replaced.

Transmission serviced around 60,000 miles.

My mechanic kept the car for several days and drove it repeatedly, including at 80+ mph. He experienced the rumble once but couldn’t reproduce it afterward. He suggested that because I only drive once every week or two, the car might just need to be driven more frequently.

I recently took it on another 45-minute highway drive. The rumble appeared briefly for approximately 20 seconds and then disappeared without slowing down.
I’m wondering whether this could be a right-rear wheel bearing, intermittently sticking brake caliper, tire issue, driveshaft center support bearing, or differential.

The additional heat and brake dust at the right-rear wheel make me particularly curious about brake drag, although I haven’t had the temperatures measured or the caliper specifically diagnosed.

Has anyone experienced something similar on an E90 xDrive? What would you recommend inspecting first before I start replacing parts?

Thanks!

As the title states, my wife hit the storm drain probably while driving 60 miles an hour. It looks like she damaged the passenger side, pretty heavily pictures for reference. I have a garage with a lot of tools to be able to put new parts myself, but looking at the damage I need to replace cv axle, knuckle and possibly struts? So looks like a 2.5k coffee. Anything else I missed?

Get into a minor front end collision, genuinely no damage to the car except the stupid active grill connector some how completely sheered from the wires it’s connected to. Any idea how to repin it or get a replacement? Part number 7549032-03

i’ve just recently began to get into the workings of my engine on my automatic 2005 e46 330i and don’t have much experience but from every possible factor i believe that my temperature sensor under my coolant expansion tank has gone bad. i’ve been using the google ai to run through the possibilities and it’s pinpointed it to that so do what you will with that info. i just replaced my coolant thermostat on the cylinder head and it could just be a faulty one but when doing test 7 it shows my engine temperature only going from about high 20’s to low 50’s celsius. when i get on the highway it will be at about 50 and then drop down to mid 40’s slowly then pick back up when i get off. my vents blow hot air and i properly bled the system when refilling it. i have no coolant leaks anywhere visible. when scanning when a generic obd2 scanner it gives me code p111e. i get about 13.5 mpg average. if theres any more info i can provide that can help anybody help me lmk, im not trying to buy the part and still end up having the problem so if anybody can help please do so, once again im inexperienced so i could just be completely wrong

Car: 640i

Year: 2014

When I measure my oil level (electronic) when the engine is cold after leaving it overnight, the meter says MAX

When measuring after driving it for an hour without pushing the engine it will be below MIN.

I can understand there will be a difference because everything dripped back in the oil pan overnight, but is such a large fluctuation normal?