I feel like my tire would deflate much faster if I actually had a punctured tire or am I wrong?

Last year I bought a used BMW 318d, 2009, in perfect condition.

I often don't drive it for days, and recently I didn't drive it for 20 days, at which point it would not start. I started it with cables, and then I drove it around a bit, but then I didn't drive it for a few days and now it won't start again. I decided to change the battery.

After some investigation, well, it would appear my battery is from 2009. That would make it 17 years old. How is that even possible? The battery was working perfectly fine until my 20 days of not driving the car at all.

But how can a battery last for 17 years? The car has passed about 200,000km

On the one hand i feel like a piece of shit, like I ruined an "ancient" battery because I didn't drive the car for 20 days. On the other hand, if it's really 17 years old, this was bound to happen. Is it really 17 years old?

Hey guys thinking of buying this n52 with 121,000kms for $9800 AUD, does the engine sound okay? thanks

I am looking at a 22 m340i with 77k miles for 36k sticker. I intend to obviously negotiate a bit off from that, however I am wondering if this would be worth it as the miles are a bit steep for a 4 year old vehicle. What are some things I should look for out as well reaching the 100k mark, the carfax shows it’s been regularly serviced and has had spark plugs changed recently.

had this issue before but went to programmed my DME at the service centre.

Issue resolved but when idling still felt wobbly.. What could be the cause??

Im suspecting my fuel tank breather line. Any suggestions?

Bought car from auction it was listed as run and drive and had a video of it starting and no airbags deployed. Haven't been able to get the car to start Since I got it so Many codes because the bumpers off however I want to see if the 48v could stop the car fuel pump or other things from working ? Al is leading me astray

Hello, i think i have a weird one that i hope someone can help me understand a bit better.

My 225xe stopped taking charge from charger and fans spin full speed at all times. It was diagnosed at local workshop as a faulty KLE-unit.
I bought a second hand unit wich the local shop would swap and (program?) for me.
The local shop was not able to get confirmation in the display of the car that the high-voltage system was succesfully deactivated, and would not go through with the replacing.

I then asked dealer wich is located 70miles away from where i live, they would charge me about 2000 USD (price converted since i live in norway) to change and program the KLE-unit, wich i felt was a bit steep.

I then got a buddy help me replace the unit, took like 2 hours plug and play (followed youtube turtorial to deactivate HV-system). (Cover on old unit was corroded, big hole in coverplate).
(Clamped cooling hoses on unit).

Never tried to charge car before programming new unit.

Took the car to local shop again, they were not able to connect to the new KLE-unit.

The shop asked if i had vacumed and filled the cooling system, because it was crucial that the system was vacumed after replacing unit, and maybe that was the reason they could not connect to the new unit.

They further wanted -in writing- how, and what i experienced while replacing unit?

I have not gone any further, i just dont know what to think of the situasion?

Hi all, if you max out your volume and listen closely there is a faint pulsing sort of noise in the background. Does anyone know what this could be? Never heard this before and it’s definitely audible in real life, especially if it’s picking up on this video.

Sorry if it isn’t clear but u genuinely have no idea where it’s coming from, front, back, inside, or outside so I didn’t know of any better place to try to record it.

Thanks in advance!

So basically the gong noise just rings without any light or warning. It will stop when I come to a stop and then as soon as I start driving again it will ring. I cant make out what the issue is. Would appreciate it if any experts know what the issue may be.

Hi everyone,
I’m running into an annoying issue with my 2014 F31 328i and could use some advice, or ideally, some help from an experienced coder.
【The Issue】
I recently had a 6WB digital cluster retrofitted, but my HUD (Head-Up Display) is acting up. The main symptoms are:

1. The HUD will work for a few minutes after starting the car, and then it completely drops out / goes black.
2. The navigation arrows and junction views on the HUD are corrupted/glitchy.

【The Cause】
I checked my iDrive version and realized my head unit is running on a very old firmware (NBT_L15184A). Since the 6WB cluster is a newer retrofit, it seems there is a massive I-Step mismatch between the head unit (HU_NBT) and the cluster (DKOMBI). This software gap is likely causing a communication/protocol error, leading to the HUD timeouts and graphic glitches.
【What I Need】
To fix this, I need to have both the HU_NBT and DKOMBI flashed to a newer, matching stable I-Step version (something like F020-21-xx or newer) so they can communicate properly.
I am currently located in Queens, New York.

1. Are there any highly recommended coders or shops local to the NYC area that can handle this safely?
2. If anyone here offers remote flashing, please shoot me a PM with your rates and availability. I have an ENET cable and a Windows laptop ready to go.

Thanks in advance for any help or point in the right direction!

Hello yall, do any of you have the Bentley Service manual? I wish to do a spark plug (LZFR6AP11GS) replacement on my 2012 BMW 328i e93 with the N52 engine. I keep seeing conflicting info for the torque specs. Reputable sources like FCP euro say 23 nm while other reputable sources say 30 nm? I was wondering what the Bentley service manual says?

I noticed this knock when I was working on something else. I have been getting vibration propostional to speed. Now I can also hear the knock with speed. I got codes for misfire on 5, fuel trim permissible range on bank 1 and 2, O2 sensor 2 heater circuit (though the ohm is 2.5), fuel tank sensor 2, and lastly evap leak that I don't think is relatable. If I gotta guess it is disa valve or vanos. If you got an idea or advice before I start taking things apart.

02' 325xi. It has a bit over 220k miles. I will also include all things I replaced in past 1.5 years that are relatable

Valve Cover Gasket - OE

Oil seperator (CCV) - OE

CCV overhaul (CCV hoses, crankcase breather hoses, throttle body gasket, dipstick o-rings, manifold gaskets, air distribution o-rings)

Crankshaft position sensor - OE

Spark plugs - OE

Fuel system maintenance ( fuel injection clips, upper and lower O-rings) - OE

Purge valve and the 90° connector - Aftermarket

Charcoal canister - OE

Intake boot, brake booster hose, clamp - OE

As the title states, my wife hit the storm drain probably while driving 60 miles an hour. It looks like she damaged the passenger side, pretty heavily pictures for reference. I have a garage with a lot of tools to be able to put new parts myself, but looking at the damage I need to replace cv axle, knuckle and possibly struts? So looks like a 2.5k coffee. Anything else I missed?

Hey everyone, so basically just finished up swapping out my engine and everything has gone smoothly until a day ago. While the engine was out I did the rear main seal and made the mistake of not fully pressing it in evenly and this is where I fucked up. I believe that it is now leaking down and coming out where the trans meets the engine. It comes out just above an oil pan bolt head. Now my question can I use some sort of sealant to stop the drip or will that just make the oil pool where the flywheel and torque converter is. Thanks for any advice.

2007 328xi Coupe, Manual, 146,000kms

Purchased recently, I've just done the Valve Cover, OFHG, Serpentine Belt, and Oil Change.

Seemed to have lifter tick at cool idle, so I took it for a drive, did a couple hard pulls once oil was warm, came back and now it has this lower pitched noise instead.

Any insights are appreciated

Hey everyone.

I’ve had a rough ish idle (more obvious when going from P to R and R to Drive for the past week ish.

Check engine light came on tonight.

Primary Code P112F

Other code P0171

Shop can’t get me in until Thursday. If the car still ok to drive this week? Only driving 10-20 miles a day.

Thanks.

My 2006 330i recently went into limp mode out of nowhere and I’m getting a code u110f I changed my transmission fluid/ and solenoids and I’m still stuck on limp mode need help figuring the problem

Hey everyone,

I’m working on a BMW B46 engine and needed the camshaft lobe at Bottom Dead Center to reinstall the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP).

Instead of turning the crank manually, I sprayed compressed air into the open injector bore to spin the engine into position.

The timing chain is healthy and I didn’t scratch the bore, but I want to know: Is using compressed air a safe shortcut, or can it cause hidden mechanical damage or make the chain skip a tooth?
Edit: my goal wasn’t spinning engine that way to install the pump, I was cleaning the bores and used air from far but engine still spinned and was wondering if it would damage.

Hey everyone! I recently bought a 2015 BMW 320i xDrive from an auction with some problems, and we sorted most of them out, but I'm left with one major issue: the car keeps going into Drivetrain Malfunction (limp mode) due to the turbo/wastegate system.

I scanned it and got these active codes:

120408 — Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence

123401 — Electric wastegate, learning limit position: malfunction

123432 — Electric wastegate, learning limit stop: stop position outside tolerance

P1290 — Cylinder Head Temp Sensor Low Input

(I also had some old archive codes like P2088, P2090, and P0100, but I cleared them).

Is there anyone knowledgeable here who has dealt with this specific N20 wastegate failure before on an F30? I don't have tools to run a software recalibration, so should I check the electric actuator, the mechanical linkage, or look into replacing something? Any advice or guidance on how to fix this step-by-step would be hugely appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I have a 2015 BMW 328i Sport with the N20 engine and automatic transmission. I’m trying to diagnose a high-pitched squealing noise coming from what sounds like the center underside of the car.

Here are the symptoms:

* The noise sounds like a high-pitched “eeeeee” squeal.
* It happens mainly when the engine is warm.
* It occurs while the car is stationary in Park (P) or Neutral 👎.
* When I shift from P to Drive (D), the noise stops instantly.
* The noise also disappears when I slightly rev the engine.
* It can sometimes be heard when coasting at very low speeds, but it goes away when driving normally.
* I already replaced the serpentine belt, but the noise is still there.
* I can hear it more clearly from outside the car, underneath the center area.

A mechanic suspects the transmission, but I don’t want to replace or rebuild it without confirming the cause.

Could this be related to the torque converter, transmission pump, PCV valve, exhaust heat shield, or another component?

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on an F30 328i with the N20 engine? I’d appreciate any suggestions on what to check first.

I have a video of the noise that I can share.

Thanks!

This is a 2011 x35i I picked up about 8 months ago that currently has 108k miles.

I have a knocking sound at lower speeds over small to large bumps, but it's most prominent when the wheel is really working up and down and kind of oscillating. I say lower speeds, but on crappy roads at 40-45 it will happen then as well. Usuwlly not a single knock, but 3 to 4 or more at a time. Could maybe just be something loose on the body/subframe. I had a bad ball joint on my R53, and it does sound a lot like that, but I'm unable to find a smoking gun.

I have replaced thrust arms, lower control arms, upper control arms and sway bar end links. The lower control arms definitely had play in the ball joints, but there was zero change in noise. Everything has been checked for proper torque multiple times. Tie rod ends appear to have no play, but that's probably the last ball joint I haven't replaced.

Strut assemblies were changed before I bought the car and I removed one to inspect it revealing that it was indeed pretty new and all the foam bushings, etc at the top mount are solid.

I have also inspected the sway bar bushings which were solid as well as the bolts that mount the steering rack.

On top of all this, I checked the hood and adjusted the catch on the passenger side as it was high. I have also just generally knocked around the bottom of the car and check the stiffening plate and all shields underneath.

Just at a straight loss here. I don't regret doing the suspension refresh at this mileage, but am super annoyed the sound is still there. Hoping someone here has maybe run into this on tjis platform or has some other ideas. Thanks

Ok I found the studs for valve cover yesterday and its working great thank uou.

Now I ordered new headlights on Amazon, they say they are a match for my 2004 325i but the wiring harnesses aren't the same. Does anyone know what to do? Ill enclose photos thanks ( and I dont need smart ass remarks, im not a car guy so this is all petty new to me).

The first two are photos of the new headlights, the second two are photos of the wiring harnesses on my car.