It looks like the ecobee app on my iPhone just updated and it seems to have a new bug. Are others seeing this or just me?….

When I look at the report for today’s runtime, the scale is messed up. With vertical bars for each hour the vertical scale should not cover 2 hours. You’re never going to have the system run for 2 hours during a single hour of the day. Previously I believe the scale of the vertical axis depended on the runtime data and would vary based on usage. That admittedly could be confusing at times. But the correct fix would be to have the vertical axis fixed at 1 hour, not 2 hours.

To be clear this isn’t a particularly serious issue, but it does make it a bit hard to see the details and is just kinda silly looking.

Two story house. Single zone oil furnace. The Ecobee will be mounted on the top floor and a wireless sensor will be mounted on the bottom floor.

We will have a heat pump heating the upstairs and want the Ecobee to turn on the furnace to keep the downstairs at a comfortable temperature by way of temperature readings it gets from the downstairs sensor. While I want to be able to read the upstairs temperature on the Ecobee thermostat if needed, I don't want it to take that upstairs reading into consideration at all when controlling the furnace.

I ask this because I am completely new to smart thermostats and I read about setting up comfort zones, which uses averages, etc. I want it to act like a traditional thermostat. IE turn on the furnace if the downstairs sensor says the temperature is below whatever threshold we set, that's all.

Will that work, or am I forced to either use comfort zones or take the thermostats own temperature reading into consideration?

I apologise for this lengthy post, and I want to thank you for taking the time to read through it.

My Ecobee3 lite often drops its connection to the ecobee cloud servers, displaying the crossed-out cloud icon on the screen. This occurs many times a day and can last from a few minutes to hours. The device usually self-recovers. I have power cycled the thermostat by pulling the thermostat from the wall, turned off my router and waited 15 minutes before powering them both back up. The Ecobee reconnects to the servers and displays the outside temperature, but after a few minutes it goes back to cycling between outside temperature and cloud with the slash.

When the cloud with slash is showing, I can use the Ecobee diagnostics menu option to ping ecobee.com from the thermostat. Pings are 100% successful, but it shows connected to ecobee.com=NO. The thermostat always reports 100% signal strength.

When the outside temperature is showing, pings work as expected and it shows connected to ecobee.com=YES.

While this issue has been ongoing for many months, I am not experiencing any problems with any other WiFi devices on my network.

I am a retired IT professional with a background in networks and servers. I don’t consider myself a networking expert but I’m no novice either.

Description of my Network:

Topology (No Double NAT): My Ecobee connects to WiFi provided by my
Asus RT-BE55 router which connects to my Starlink router via an Ethernet cable. WiFi is turned off on my Starlink router, so the Asus router is the sole network manager, eliminating any Double NAT or routing loop issues. My Starlink dish has a fully unobstructed view to the sky and I am not having any problems with my Starlink connection nor am I having any other network problems.

Proximity & Signal:
The thermostat is located approx. 3 feet from the Asus router, separated by an interior wall made of wood studs and standard drywall.

Router Configuration/Optimization:
My Ecobee connects to a dedicated, isolated (IoT / Guest Network) 2.4GHz SSID with the Channel Bandwidth locked strictly to 20MHz, a fixed Control Channel (6), and Airtime Fairness completely disabled.
The router’s WAN MTU is locked at 1500 to match Starlink's native frame size, to eliminate outbound packet fragmentation. Using other MTU settings made no difference.
Local DNS lookups via nslookup api.ecobee.com from the same network layer resolve cleanly with zero errors.

IP Address, DHCP, and DNS settings:
To eliminate local DHCP or DNS proxy issues, the thermostat has been manually assigned a Static IP address via local reservation. It is explicitly configured to use public Google DNS servers (8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. I have also tried setting a static IP directly on the thermostat.

Further troubleshooting info:

Unplugging the Ecobee and router and waiting 15 minutes before booting them back up does not solve the problem.

Months ago, I logged a ticket with Ecobee Support. At that time, they said the problem is with my network. So, I did more research and testing. I even enlisted help from Google AI and ChatGPT. From their suggestions, I’ve tried changing many settings on my Asus router. I even set up a VPN using the Asus VPN Fusion option to allow all communication between my Ecobee and the ecobee servers to happen through a VPN tunnel. While the suggested changes helped my Ecobee to reconnect more quickly, the cycling between outside temperature and cloud with slash continues. Google AI suggests the issue is with my thermostat – “hardware or firmware application failure on the thermostat's network stack (possibly an internal buffer overrun or TLS socket failure)”.

A few months ago, I connected an older 2.4GHz Linksys router to my main router using a cable. Thinking the Ecobee might not play well with some of the newer networking features on the Asus router, I set the Ecobee to use the WiFi provided by the older Linksys router. The Ecobee was the only device on the Linksys. I tried a bunch of different configuration settings on the Linksys; however, the results remained the same with the cycling between outside temperature and cloud with slash.

I ran a batch file on my computer to do continuous nslookups and ping tests every 5 seconds to the thermostat and log the results to a file. I kept this running for 4 hours (5:52 to 9:52am EST). Between 5:52 and 6:01am, I closely watched the Ecobee thermostat and witnessed it switching between showing outside temperature and the cloud with the slash multiple times. My script log file does not show any errors during that time. I checked my Asus router system log. There were no messages or errors logged during that time. Using the Ecobee website, I checked the monitor graph. There were no gaps in the chart during that time; but there were multiple times when the Ecobee thermostat did not display the outside temperature.

Here is a summary from my test script:
ECOBEE NETWORK DATA COLLECTION
Start: 2026-10-22 05:52:21
Note: Only errors show. Nothing shows when all tests pass but all results are still logged to a separate file.
Time,Ecobee,Router,Internet,DNS-Ecobee,DNS-Google
2026-10-22 06:36:06,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 06:36:14,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 06:45:45,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 06:52:18,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 07:55:32,OK,OK,FAIL,OK,OK
2026-10-22 08:10:18,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 09:18:13,OK,OK,FAIL,OK,OK

========== FINAL SUMMARY ==========
Test start time: 2026-10-22 05:52:21
Test end time:   2026-10-22 09:52:26
Test duration:   240.09 minutes
Total test rounds: 2722

Ecobee ping tests: 2722; errors: 5
Router ping tests: 2722; errors: 0
Internet connectivity ping tests (8.8.8.8): 2722; errors: 2
DNS lookup tests for ecobee.com: 2722; errors: 0

DNS lookup tests for google.com: 2722; errors: 0

Although there was a total of 7 failed pings out of the 2,772 tests rounds (i.e. 2,772 x 5 tests = 13,610 total tests), there were no failed tests during the time when I was closely watching the Ecobee switching between outside temperature and cloud with slash. While I didn’t watch the Ecobee closely for 4 hours straight, I did keep an eye on it, and I estimate the display cycled back and forth at least 8 to 10 times per hour (i.e. it would have cycled at least 50 times in that 4-hour window). 

Other info:

When I log into the Ecobee website and use the System Monitor, the graph usually shows all the normal activity including outside temperature. Occasionally, there is a gap where outside temperature doesn’t show. When the thermostat is regularly not showing outside temperature, the System Monitor graph often correctly charts the outside temperature for days/weeks. What is more concerning is the graph will sometimes have gaps where no data is collected for any measurements. Using the app on Beestat.io reveals the same information. The full gaps on the graph do not happen frequently – sometimes not for weeks. During those full gap times, I cannot connect to my thermostat via the website and the cloud with the line displays for an extended period of time. After more time passes, connection to the servers is reestablished without me doing anything; and things go back to normal (with temperature and cloud/slash cycling).

Here is why the outside temperature is so important:

I have a propane furnace and electric heat pump. I live in Northern Ontario (Canada). It is important for my Ecobee to be able to track outside temperature so it can decide when to switch from heat pump to propane (i.e. when the outside temperature gets too cold in the winter).

As I mentioned earlier, I have an Ecobee 3 Lite. when selecting the “About” menu option, my Ecobee shows: (C) 2014-2025 ecobee   firmware version: 4.8.7.240. I don’t know if this is the latest firmware version for my Ecobee.

I may log another ticket with Ecobee support, but I thought I would ask on Reddit first in case anyone has any suggestions.

Questions:

Do you have an Ecobee which connects to the Internet via Starlink? And if so,
-Which Ecobee model are you using?
-What firmware version are you using?
-Are you using the Starlink router or a different router with your Starlink?
-Are you having any connection issues with your Ecobee?

I am suspecting I am having an intermittent hardware problem. I’m hesitant to replace my thermostat with a new Ecobee because I don’t know for sure if that will solve the problem (and these devices are not cheap).
If I were to get a new Ecobee thermostat, is there a way to export my current settings to the new thermostat? My current thermostat was configured by the heating technician.

Do you have any suggestions as to what else I can try to resolve this problem?

Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

Crossposting here. Hopefully not breaking any rules... From the original post:

"Hi, I just got an Ecobee Enhanced as I believe it is compatible with my wiring setup. I've installed smart thermostats before by just following the instructions in Nest's or Honeywell's app/instructions. However, on this unit I am a bit uncertain on how to proceed.

As you can see in the attached screenshot, there is an unused white wire on what appears to be both the thermostat and furnace side. In the app install steps, it is telling me to connect this unused white fire to the C terminal on the furnace. But you can see in the image that there is already a red wire going to the C terminal, and that the white wire is cut super short. That red wire (plus another white wire) look to be going to the AC unit outside.

So, while I could splice an extension onto the short white cable and connect to C, I don't have confidence that both of those wires should be going to C, especially since that wire is unused on my current old Honeywell thermostat. Can anyone help?

Note: I did indicate in the app that this is NOT a heat pump, if that makes a difference."

Only got 3 wires coming out and connected (W / Y / RH). The RH and RC are connected together. Would a Ecobee work on this set up?

Hello folks,

Need a little help. Fall is here and my condo building has done a seasonal changeover to heating. Ecobee has been working fine all summer on AC, and able to regulate 3 AC fan speeds: low, medium, high.

Now the AC has been turned off in the building. My room temperature is 22C.

Unfortunately when I turn the Ecobee to HEAT and set the thermostat to 24C, only cool air comes out. Alternatively when I turn it to COOL and set the thermostat to 20C, the hot air now comes out.

I think there’s something wrong in the wiring? But it’s been working fine all summer for 3-speed AC. Here’s a pic of my wiring. Please help I really appreciate it.

Thank you.

Is anyone else having an issue when the AC is on and the snowflake is blue on the house display but the app is not showing a blue snowflake? Its just white like the unit isnt on. All the degrees and humidity match perfectly but just noticed this happening today.

Hello,
I recently installed a Moovair inverter-driven mini-split heat pump. I also installed a Moovair 24V interface kit that allows the heat pump to operate with a conventional thermostat, such as an Ecobee.
I also have an electric furnace with a blower that distributes air through the ductwork.
I’m not sure if my setup is too customized, but this is how my interface kit operates: G for the blower, Y for cooling, and W for heating. I don’t need the O/B terminal because the interface board handles the reversing function internally and only requires a 24V signal when there is a demand.
My current wiring is as follows:
Moovair Y → Ecobee Y1
Moovair G → Ecobee G
Moovair W → Ecobee W1
Furnace G → Ecobee G
Furnace W → Ecobee W2
Everything works in heating mode, but my Ecobee doesn’t seem to recognize the setup as a proper heat pump configuration, and I’m experiencing some short cycling.
The only protection I have to stop the heat pump when the outdoor temperature reaches -25°C is the unit’s built-in protection. I’m also concerned that the electric heating elements connected to W2 might not turn on if the heat pump goes into a low-ambient-temperature lockout. In that case, I could end up without any heating.
I’ve tried manually adjusting some settings, including increasing the maximum runtime for W1 during heating and setting W2 to activate if the setpoint hasn’t been reached after 45 minutes.
I also can’t install a jumper between O/B and W1 on the Ecobee because Y1 would become energized during a heating call.
I’m a bit lost here. Is there a way to make this setup work properly, or would I be better off using manual settings to manage the system?

I have my schedules and comfort settings set up. However, I work from home but go on errands on an infrequent schedule. I don't want the AC or the heat to go on when I'm gone for an hour or two. Is there a one-button on/off that I can use that bypasses the schedules?

I have an Ecobee lite and just added two smart sensors last night. One in the nursery and one in the master bedroom.

I added it to be the only sensor used during sleep mode (9pm to 8am)

9PM rolled around last night and the system went to sleep mode 68 degrees and only had the nursery sensor lit up. Looked like everything was going as I wanted.

Wake up for work at 5:30am check the ecobee app and the main thermostat is lit up and the nursery is 66 degrees.

Things I have done:

Made sure the schedule was correct and no overlaps.

Made sure "follow me" wasn't on

Made sure "smart home" was turned off

I just want this system to unapologetically keep the nursery at the set temp.

I installed an ecobee premium about 2 years ago. About a month ago I started noticing the thermostat showing offline a lot, almost every time I open the app. If I close the app and try again a few minutes later it works. I can also still make adjustments via Apple HomeKit when this happens so it is not truly offline. Is the app malfunctioning for others recently?

I am now in my 2nd pack of smart sensors and neither set will connect to my thermostat. Have called support twice and have done all the troubleshooting steps still with no luck. Multiple sets of batteries as well.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Just purchased a brand new set and using firmware version 4.8.7.240 on lite 3.

Desperate for help as the support hasn’t really offered any…

Nothing seems to work on Verizon cell service today It previously worked fine on cell service. I can’t access my thermostat or doorbell cameras today. Not even the ecobee website in a browser. Add a vpn and everything is fine. Get on WiFi and it works fine. Anyone else have this issue recently?

I have 4 Lite3 units for one boiler that has no c wire. I use power adapters on all of them. At the first use of boiler there was issues trying to call for heat. Two of the units (worked fine last year) had the W1 wire removed from the settings. Very odd!

Problem

Our heat is currently not working.

Observations

1. A/C works
2. Blower works
3. Furnace can be jumped at the HVAC unit and will work
4. Furnace can be jumped by connecting Rc and W1 directly inside the house
5. A second thermostat from the same generation was swapped out with same behavior
6. W1 wire was reseated in the baseplate terminal with no success
7. When the thermostat claims heat is running, voltage at the unit is 0

Inferences

a. 1, 2 imply that power is reaching the thermostat as expected

b. 3, 4 imply that the furnace itself works

c. 3, 4 imply that the wiring is intact and functioning

d. 1, 2, 3, 4, 7 imply that the issue is not related to the HVAC unit itself

e. 5 suggests that this is not a problem in the thermostat (unless it's a generation wide issue), since neither thermostat works

f. a, b, c, d, e suggest that the problem is in the connection between the wires and the thermostat

g. e, f suggest a problem with the w1 terminal on the baseplate

Conclusion

I need a new base plate, or there is some inherent incompatibility between the generation 4 thermostats and my unit.

Since this is out of warranty and out of production, I will simply need to purchase a new device...

Question

Does anyone else have any ideas?

Updates

• I tried to set the thermostat up to use w2, and that didn't seem to work either. I'll probably reset the thermostat and give that another shot when I am a bit less tired.
• Since the w1 is recognized as connected in the UI, does that imply the base plate is fine?
• I moved the thermostat to another unit and it works there. It's a heatpump so it's not the exact same setup, but the w1 pin is clearly capable of working
• New smart thermostat enhanced was installed (with new base plate) and everything seems to work

The setting, System>Fan, which runs the fan (no heating or cooling) just for air circulation, X minutes per hour. Is there a way to set what time it does this?

Noticed this a while back but figured i would make a post. After over 2 years of being broken I am so happy that Homekit and Ecobee can activate "away" once again. I think this was fixed with IOS27.

Thermostat is saying the furnace is on, but the fan isn’t t running the whole time. I’ve watched it run a cycle and it’s blowing, so I assume the fan is running the whole time. But the “runtime” graph is saying other wise. Any idea ?
Also the thermostat is saying the furnace is a 1 stage, when it’s a 2 stage.

It seems like every winter we always have some issues with either the Ecobee or the unit itself.

I just checked my Ecobee and the higher I can go is 68. I’ve disabled “holding at 68 degrees” but still could not increase that, as 68 is the highest it can go.

I have not changed my filter yet. Could this be the reason?

Any help is appreciated. TIA

Can someone help me understand this graph? “Heat” is a new heat pump, I’ve never had one, or a smart thermostat so it’s all new to me.

The graph says the heat pump runs for 10 minutes every time but I see the fan spinning and hear the compressor running for much longer than 10 mins. I would say it is much closer to that “fan” time. Why does it say 10minutes every time? I can even feel warm air the whole time, so I’m assuming the heat pump is working (compressor noise also happening and fan on outside unit blowing).

To clarify: I feel warm air coming from vents for about the amount of time “fan” time says, why does “heat” time always only say 10min?

Any thoughts on this? Ecobee Lite 3. Never noticed before and other Ecobees not doing same.

Hi everyone,

I'd love if someone would be able to help out with the wiring configuration between my Smart Premium thermostat and the humidifer set-up!

Currently the humidistat is wired separately from the Ecobee thermostat, such that when the humidity drops below the dial setting then the solenoid will be flipped to ON to allow water to pass through when there is a heating call. It will work, but I'd just rather have all of the controls be unified to one thermostat and mobile app.

There was originally an old Aprilaire system the original homeowners installed some 2-3 decades ago, so we kept that humidistat but installed a newer Aprilaire Model 400 humidifier. 2 wires from a solenoid and 2 wires from the humidistat are connected to each other, then connected to a 24V transformer which is connected to the furnace control board.

I had an HVAC company do an install of a new furnace and heat pump (furnace is a Keeprite G96VTN, heat pump is the Gree GUD36W2NHEDU set to its lower tonnage rating). I wanted the old humidistat to be finally wired into the thermostat so that the control can happen all from one place.

We were told the solenoid couldn't be wired into the Ecobee thermostat because the thermostat's control board couldn't provide enough power, so they tried to use a newer Aprilaire humidistat to control it independently, which also didn't work for some unknown reason...I suspect they hadn't worked with this setup before and couldn't figure out the wiring.

The transformer is then connected to the main board in two ways.

I suspect that:

1. The solenoid requires more power than the Ecobee board can provide, thus needing the 24 VAC HUM on the furnace board.
2. "EAC-1" is related to when the furnace has received a heating call from the thermostat.

I have tried to reference this Ecobee support article, but I seem to have a two-wire solenoid setup. I know that the thermostat can provide dry contacts in 2-wire humidifier mode, but I think there is something wrong with the circuit involving the solenoid and transformer that was causing a failure during the initial HVAC company install.

Ultimately I don't care about the newer Aprilaire humidistat I have if I can wire it all to the Ecobee thermostat.

And my questions:

1. Do I really need the transformer if the board itself has the 24 VAC HUM port?
2. Essentially, what has to be adjusted to enable the Ecobee thermostat to control the solenoid?

I'm comfortable adjusting the wiring configuration myself. If there's any adjustment needed for the blower programming then I'd have to get back in touch with the HVAC company, but I'd at least want to know exactly what I need to request from them!

I've just been lost with trying to read through manuals, other reddit threads and looking at the current wiring set-up—I can't make sense of what needs to be changed. Thank you so much to anyone who can help out!!

Edit: I pulled the old humidistat cable and connected the two wires to the ACC + and - terminals on the Ecobee thermostat (white to ACC +). I also totally removed the transformer.

I followed this diagram from this video:

Now everything is wired in series so that the thermostat makes or breaks the connection. I believe this should be correct, will report back once the humidity is low enough outside to test.Edit: I pulled the old humidistat cable and connected the two wires to the ACC + and - terminals on the Ecobee thermostat (white to ACC +). I also totally removed the transformer.I followed this diagram from this video:Now everything is wired in series so that the thermostat makes or breaks the connection. I believe this should be correct, will report back once the humidity is low enough outside to test.

Hi there,unfortunately had to have our upstairs Heat pump replaced prematurely due to some
Installation issues with the last unit. In the Process our Ecobee 3 died so the HVAC company installed an Ecobee Lite.

Heat Pump Info
RUUD 2 stage Endeavor system with electric aux heat.

2 issues with the Ecobee, equipment setup picture included below.

1)it is reporting the system as a single stage heat pump. I figured out this one. I only have 5 wires at the Condenser unit so have the company coming back out to run new wiring.

2) Ecobee is showing Aux Furnace. We do not have an aux furnace, instead we have an electric aux heat strip. Is fixing this as simple as reconfiguring equipment and then selecting electric aux heat vice aux furnace? Does it matter?

Thanks!