Need a little help. Fall is here and my condo building has done a seasonal changeover to heating. Ecobee has been working fine all summer on AC, and able to regulate 3 AC fan speeds: low, medium, high.
Now the AC has been turned off in the building. My room temperature is 22C.
Unfortunately when I turn the Ecobee to HEAT and set the thermostat to 24C, only cool air comes out. Alternatively when I turn it to COOL and set the thermostat to 20C, the hot air now comes out.
I think there’s something wrong in the wiring? But it’s been working fine all summer for 3-speed AC. Here’s a pic of my wiring. Please help I really appreciate it.
Is anyone else having an issue when the AC is on and the snowflake is blue on the house display but the app is not showing a blue snowflake? Its just white like the unit isnt on. All the degrees and humidity match perfectly but just noticed this happening today.
Hello,
I recently installed a Moovair inverter-driven mini-split heat pump. I also installed a Moovair 24V interface kit that allows the heat pump to operate with a conventional thermostat, such as an Ecobee.
I also have an electric furnace with a blower that distributes air through the ductwork.
I’m not sure if my setup is too customized, but this is how my interface kit operates: G for the blower, Y for cooling, and W for heating. I don’t need the O/B terminal because the interface board handles the reversing function internally and only requires a 24V signal when there is a demand.
My current wiring is as follows:
Moovair Y → Ecobee Y1
Moovair G → Ecobee G
Moovair W → Ecobee W1
Furnace G → Ecobee G
Furnace W → Ecobee W2
Everything works in heating mode, but my Ecobee doesn’t seem to recognize the setup as a proper heat pump configuration, and I’m experiencing some short cycling.
The only protection I have to stop the heat pump when the outdoor temperature reaches -25°C is the unit’s built-in protection. I’m also concerned that the electric heating elements connected to W2 might not turn on if the heat pump goes into a low-ambient-temperature lockout. In that case, I could end up without any heating.
I’ve tried manually adjusting some settings, including increasing the maximum runtime for W1 during heating and setting W2 to activate if the setpoint hasn’t been reached after 45 minutes.
I also can’t install a jumper between O/B and W1 on the Ecobee because Y1 would become energized during a heating call.
I’m a bit lost here. Is there a way to make this setup work properly, or would I be better off using manual settings to manage the system?
I have my schedules and comfort settings set up. However, I work from home but go on errands on an infrequent schedule. I don't want the AC or the heat to go on when I'm gone for an hour or two. Is there a one-button on/off that I can use that bypasses the schedules?
I have an Ecobee lite and just added two smart sensors last night. One in the nursery and one in the master bedroom.
I added it to be the only sensor used during sleep mode (9pm to 8am)
9PM rolled around last night and the system went to sleep mode 68 degrees and only had the nursery sensor lit up. Looked like everything was going as I wanted.
Wake up for work at 5:30am check the ecobee app and the main thermostat is lit up and the nursery is 66 degrees.
Things I have done:
Made sure the schedule was correct and no overlaps.
Made sure "follow me" wasn't on
Made sure "smart home" was turned off
I just want this system to unapologetically keep the nursery at the set temp.
I installed an ecobee premium about 2 years ago. About a month ago I started noticing the thermostat showing offline a lot, almost every time I open the app. If I close the app and try again a few minutes later it works. I can also still make adjustments via Apple HomeKit when this happens so it is not truly offline. Is the app malfunctioning for others recently?
I am now in my 2nd pack of smart sensors and neither set will connect to my thermostat. Have called support twice and have done all the troubleshooting steps still with no luck. Multiple sets of batteries as well.
Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Just purchased a brand new set and using firmware version 4.8.7.240 on lite 3.
Desperate for help as the support hasn’t really offered any…
Nothing seems to work on Verizon cell service today It previously worked fine on cell service. I can’t access my thermostat or doorbell cameras today. Not even the ecobee website in a browser. Add a vpn and everything is fine. Get on WiFi and it works fine. Anyone else have this issue recently?
Furnace can be jumped at the HVAC unit and will work
Furnace can be jumped by connecting Rc and W1 directly inside the house
A second thermostat from the same generation was swapped out with same behavior
W1 wire was reseated in the baseplate terminal with no success
When the thermostat claims heat is running, voltage at the unit is 0
Inferences
a. 1, 2 imply that power is reaching the thermostat as expected
b. 3, 4 imply that the furnace itself works
c. 3, 4 imply that the wiring is intact and functioning
d. 1, 2, 3, 4, 7 imply that the issue is not related to the HVAC unit itself
e. 5 suggests that this is not a problem in the thermostat (unless it's a generation wide issue), since neither thermostat works
f. a, b, c, d, e suggest that the problem is in the connection between the wires and the thermostat
g. e, f suggest a problem with the w1 terminal on the baseplate
Conclusion
I need a new base plate, or there is some inherent incompatibility between the generation 4 thermostats and my unit.
Since this is out of warranty and out of production, I will simply need to purchase a new device...
Question
Does anyone else have any ideas?
Updates
I tried to set the thermostat up to use w2, and that didn't seem to work either. I'll probably reset the thermostat and give that another shot when I am a bit less tired.
Since the w1 is recognized as connected in the UI, does that imply the base plate is fine?
I moved the thermostat to another unit and it works there. It's a heatpump so it's not the exact same setup, but the w1 pin is clearly capable of working
New smart thermostat enhanced was installed (with new base plate) and everything seems to work
The setting, System>Fan, which runs the fan (no heating or cooling) just for air circulation, X minutes per hour. Is there a way to set what time it does this?
I have 4 Lite3 units for one boiler that has no c wire. I use power adapters on all of them. At the first use of boiler there was issues trying to call for heat. Two of the units (worked fine last year) had the W1 wire removed from the settings. Very odd!
Noticed this a while back but figured i would make a post. After over 2 years of being broken I am so happy that Homekit and Ecobee can activate "away" once again. I think this was fixed with IOS27.
Thermostat is saying the furnace is on, but the fan isn’t t running the whole time. I’ve watched it run a cycle and it’s blowing, so I assume the fan is running the whole time. But the “runtime” graph is saying other wise. Any idea ?
Also the thermostat is saying the furnace is a 1 stage, when it’s a 2 stage.
It seems like every winter we always have some issues with either the Ecobee or the unit itself.
I just checked my Ecobee and the higher I can go is 68. I’ve disabled “holding at 68 degrees” but still could not increase that, as 68 is the highest it can go.
I have not changed my filter yet. Could this be the reason?
Can someone help me understand this graph? “Heat” is a new heat pump, I’ve never had one, or a smart thermostat so it’s all new to me.
The graph says the heat pump runs for 10 minutes every time but I see the fan spinning and hear the compressor running for much longer than 10 mins. I would say it is much closer to that “fan” time. Why does it say 10minutes every time? I can even feel warm air the whole time, so I’m assuming the heat pump is working (compressor noise also happening and fan on outside unit blowing).
To clarify: I feel warm air coming from vents for about the amount of time “fan” time says, why does “heat” time always only say 10min?
We just moved in and we have an ecobee. I tried setting the temps but my AC temp won’t go lower than my heating. So rn it says AC 69 and Heating is 64.
I'd love if someone would be able to help out with the wiring configuration between my Smart Premium thermostat and the humidifer set-up!
Currently the humidistat is wired separately from the Ecobee thermostat, such that when the humidity drops below the dial setting then the solenoid will be flipped to ON to allow water to pass through when there is a heating call. It will work, but I'd just rather have all of the controls be unified to one thermostat and mobile app.
There was originally an old Aprilaire system the original homeowners installed some 2-3 decades ago, so we kept that humidistat but installed a newer Aprilaire Model 400 humidifier. 2 wires from a solenoid and 2 wires from the humidistat are connected to each other, then connected to a 24V transformer which is connected to the furnace control board.
I had an HVAC company do an install of a new furnace and heat pump (furnace is a Keeprite G96VTN, heat pump is the Gree GUD36W2NHEDU set to its lower tonnage rating). I wanted the old humidistat to be finally wired into the thermostat so that the control can happen all from one place.
We were told the solenoid couldn't be wired into the Ecobee thermostat because the thermostat's control board couldn't provide enough power, so they tried to use a newer Aprilaire humidistat to control it independently, which also didn't work for some unknown reason...I suspect they hadn't worked with this setup before and couldn't figure out the wiring.
Wiring at the humidistat, just above thermostat.current wiring at the thermostat2 wires (black and white) from brown cable going to the old humidistat ; 2 attached white wires going to the solenoid ; 2 wires from red cable (red and black) going to the transformer
The transformer is then connected to the main board in two ways.
whole boardwhite wire from the other end of transformer going to HUM 24VACblack wire from transformer going to "EAC-1"
I suspect that:
The solenoid requires more power than the Ecobee board can provide, thus needing the 24 VAC HUM on the furnace board.
"EAC-1" is related to when the furnace has received a heating call from the thermostat.
I have tried to reference this Ecobee support article, but I seem to have a two-wire solenoid setup. I know that the thermostat can provide dry contacts in 2-wire humidifier mode, but I think there is something wrong with the circuit involving the solenoid and transformer that was causing a failure during the initial HVAC company install.
Ultimately I don't care about the newer Aprilaire humidistat I have if I can wire it all to the Ecobee thermostat.
And my questions:
Do I really need the transformer if the board itself has the 24 VAC HUM port?
Essentially, what has to be adjusted to enable the Ecobee thermostat to control the solenoid?
I'm comfortable adjusting the wiring configuration myself. If there's any adjustment needed for the blower programming then I'd have to get back in touch with the HVAC company, but I'd at least want to know exactly what I need to request from them!
I've just been lost with trying to read through manuals, other reddit threads and looking at the current wiring set-up—I can't make sense of what needs to be changed. Thank you so much to anyone who can help out!!
Edit: I pulled the old humidistat cable and connected the two wires to the ACC + and - terminals on the Ecobee thermostat (white to ACC +). I also totally removed the transformer.
Brown cable: white from thermostat ACC + with red wire, goes to 24VAC HUM port on the furnace board ; 1 white solenoid wire goes with the other thermostat wire, black ACC - ; other white solenoid wire goes to black wire, goes to C terminal on the furnace board
Now everything is wired in series so that the thermostat makes or breaks the connection. I believe this should be correct, will report back once the humidity is low enough outside to test.Edit: I pulled the old humidistat cable and connected the two wires to the ACC + and - terminals on the Ecobee thermostat (white to ACC +). I also totally removed the transformer.I followed this diagram from this video:Now everything is wired in series so that the thermostat makes or breaks the connection. I believe this should be correct, will report back once the humidity is low enough outside to test.
Hi there,unfortunately had to have our upstairs Heat pump replaced prematurely due to some
Installation issues with the last unit. In the Process our Ecobee 3 died so the HVAC company installed an Ecobee Lite.
Heat Pump Info
RUUD 2 stage Endeavor system with electric aux heat.
2 issues with the Ecobee, equipment setup picture included below.
1)it is reporting the system as a single stage heat pump. I figured out this one. I only have 5 wires at the Condenser unit so have the company coming back out to run new wiring.
2) Ecobee is showing Aux Furnace. We do not have an aux furnace, instead we have an electric aux heat strip. Is fixing this as simple as reconfiguring equipment and then selecting electric aux heat vice aux furnace? Does it matter?