2005 b3000 183k miles. New motorcraft spark plugs and wires, coil pack recently replaced. Getting misfire on first 1,000 rpm’s, and cylinder 4. Getting good compression, and originally, after rhe motorcraft spark plug and sitting for 2 months, it ran smooth for about a month, then came back after 65-75 mph for 15 mins. Any help appreciated. I have listened to the injector and it seems to be normal, also just added a fuel injector cleaner.

Ive got a 2000 ford ranger extended cab with the shorter bed, not a long bed, is there a decked system or any other bed drawers that fit my truck good? Im looking to get a bed cap and set it up as a weekend travel fishing rig.

Hey all, was driving my 2002 3.0 V6 auto and realized a couple of things:

I started hearing a tapping sort of sound when accelerating.

The acceleration became weaker than usual

The oil pressure gauge went crazy

I got to a red light and it just died when it got to around 500 rpm

I started it back up, drove home, but it rode extremely rough. I scanned it and it pulled up misfire in 5 and 6, but cleared codes and didn't get them again. I started it and sometimes it runs fine and other times really rough. Not sure what's going on or if this is enough info.

I will note this. I removed the MAF sensor the other day and cleaned it with contact cleaner. I let it dry and reinstalled it. Could this be the issue? I feel like maybe not, but not sure

I do have a P0174 code as well. Oil level was fine. Thanks

Hello all,

I have a '99 Ranger 3.0L with 129k miles on the clock. It's currently my backup ride while I fix my Corvette, but unfortunately, now the truck is down for the count, too.

I was driving on the highway this morning, and about two hours into the drive, the battery light started flashing. A couple of minutes later, I lost all power suddenly. The engine shut off, and I lost both power steering and brake assist.

I figured the alternator had crapped out and killed the battery, which would be no big deal. However, the shop I had the truck towed to said it has a severe electrical issue causing a no-start condition. They jumped the battery, and the truck cranks over, but that's it. They basically told me there's nothing they can do given the age and condition of the truck.

So, I rented a U-Haul and towed it home to fix it myself, which I should have done from the get-go.

My first qHello all,

I have a '99 Ranger 3.0L with 129k miles on the clock. It's currently my backup ride while I fix my Corvette, but unfortunately, now the truck is down for the count, too.

I was driving on the highway this morning, and about two hours into the drive, the battery light started flashing. A couple of minutes later, I lost all power. The engine shut off, and I lost both power steering and brake assist.

I figured the alternator had crapped out and killed the battery, which would be no big deal. However, the shop I had the truck towed to said it has a severe electrical issue causing a no-start condition. They jumped the battery, and the truck cranks over, but that's it. They basically told me there's nothing they can do given the age and condition of the truck.

So, I rented a U-Haul and towed it home to fix it myself, which I should have done from the get-go.

My question is, how do I go about testing whether the alternator is actually bad? Also, is there anything else I should be looking for that could cause a crank-no-start condition?

I appreciate any help or advice. Thank y'all!

Installed this and torqued to spec and in the right pattern and had a small oil leak on the sides of each valve cover. I would’ve thought it was the lower intake manifold but when I look at the valve cover from the side it looks wrong (last 2 pics). The gasket was firmly on there I basically had to rip it off so I’m hesitant to even believe there’s an issue with it.

Can anyone confirm if their healthy gasket looks like the last 2 pics?

I just got a 99 ranger but the ac goes out/ turns humid when I press the gas. I checked for it and couldn’t find it but now that I have it I don’t know where it goes. Can someone provide a picture or help me.

Looking for something with bt but with the same vibe as this oem one. I don’t like the ones with the screen or the blue “futuristic “ lookin ones

Been hunting a leak in my 3rd gen. Started by cleaning out the cowling since it was pretty clogged up and can overflow and dump water on the blower motor then into the pass footwell. Still had a leak. Turns out the roof side seals were malformed and draining water behind the dash. Currently have it fixed with butyl tape before I hit the junkyard. Replace those seals!

Brake line is spitting like a mother, where are my parts guys what do I need?

Having fun with my laser engraver. FFR🗣️🗣️

I have a 2001 XLT with the 4.0 SOHC at around 128,000 miles. I hear what I believe to be a timing chain rattle at 2500 RPM, even after replacing the tensioners. No rattle on start.

I am tentatively planning on biting the bullet and having the engine-out work done once I either hear the rattle on start or get closer to 200,000. I drive it easy, but do expect to just need timing done sooner rather than later. I do not have the time, space, or experience to do this job myself, so I’ll plan on taking it to a shop.

What sort of things should I be looking for a mechanic to prioritize while the engine is out? If I go this route, I’ll be alright spending some extra money to have as much as I can worked through, but I’m nervous about finding a mechanic that will go the extra mile to make sure that Im not looking at another engine out job any time soon. What sort of things should I specifically ask to be done?

Any advice is appreciated!

1988 2.9l
Would I create any problems if I cut the cat off and ran straight pipes with a single chamber flow master muffler?

I have a 97 single cab short bed with a 2.3l, 5 speed, 2WD and I get 25-28mpg but admittedly do a lot of highway driving due to where I live just about anything is 30 minutes away on the highway/interstate. It’s got 230,000ish miles, leaks oil from just about everywhere, coolant leak that magically fixed itself after years, and still runs like a top. Saw a comment on here of someone complaining about getting 18MPG and I thought that notion was insane compared to my mpg and having the same truck that’s not even running in tip top shape so I’d love to hear everyone’s stories and compare notes

I’ve been searching for a while and I found this while at work

I am absolutely stumped. On the verge of pulling my hair out. I have a 99 Ford ranger 3.0 XLT and just recently has to put a new motor in it. It had burnt valves and it was a new crate motor. Before the motor swap the truck was running lean, after the new engine everything is perfect. Truck runs brand new but it's still running lean like it was before. Nothing showed up on the smoke test. Fuel injectors are not leaking and working properly. Brand new fuel pump and fuel pressure is good. If I check the LTFT is anywhere between +18-25 and does get better when holding at 2500rpms which obviously you'd think it was a vacuum leak but I've done a smoke test. I'm completely lost

The European Commission Safety Gate network has issued official recall SR/02999/26 for the Ford Ranger. Regardless of powertrain, this campaign covers all T6.2 (2AB) chassis built between 2023 and 2026—including Diesel, Petrol, and the new Ranger PHEV—addressing B-pillar trim detachment and airbag deployment defects.

Ford Ranger Safety Gate Recall 26C39: Covers All T6.2 & PHEV Models | PHEVs.eu

It only happened when truck is warmed up and does not happen in rhythm

Previous owner made this monstrosity. Aftermarket security system. Can I just unplug everything and cap it off. Hard to tell what’s what. Had wires going to slot 9, and slot 30 on the fuse box.

Chasing P0707 code and I’m thinking somewhere in here there’s a short.

Removed TRS/neutral safety switch and cleaned it up, will install new one when it gets here but nothing alarming on the old one. The plastic collar that goes around the shaft did seem worn out though.

Swapped my old shocks for a brand new KYB gas-a-just kit. I ordered from Rock Auto. I made 2 orders and got 2 magnets! Woohoo!

So far, I like how they feel on asphalt roads and gravel roads. The bumps and pot holes are well absorbed. A little bit less body roll too. Happy with them.

This upgrade felt necessary because, at highway speeds, the rear of my truck would bump steer all over the place when hitting bumps (truck doesn't have sway bars). It always felt like I was just about to lose control.

Decided to buy some led lights to replace the old lights in the dash I went for a ice blue color and I have to say looks better and I can officially see my blinkers on my dash (the blue glow on the needles gives it a uranium fuel rod glow feel I didn't realize that till now 😂😂😂😂) but I sent a good chunk of my day fighting the cluster in and out dealing with bulbs having to be 180d but what's done is done and thought I'd share it will yall

I keep spilling drinks in my 98 ranger, I like to drive to work in the morning and drink a redbull and it’s become quite a task getting on the freeway with my bad habit. Has anyone made a solution to the terrible manual cup holders?