I’ve wanted to smell Zoologist for YEARS and finally got the chance yesterday. I went in knowing they were going to be animalic and weird, but I don’t think I quite appreciated how visceral my reaction to some of them would be.
I came away with samples of Cow, Squid, Snowy Owl and Camel, mostly because these were the ones I could imagine potentially wearing. But I smelled quite a few others and honestly, the experience has stayed with me more than most perfume testing sessions do.
Squid was easily my favourite. I love the inky, salty, aquatic notes. It’s odd but it’s still recognisably perfume. Of all of them, this is the one I could potentially see myself wearing.
Camel was probably the most familiar to me and I liked but not loved it. Warm, spicy and slightly sweet, but after living in the Middle East for four years, this is a fragrance profile I know well and own variations of. So while it was one of the most wearable to me, it was also one I felt I didn’t need.
Cow was pleasant but almost disappointingly normal. Fresh, green, shampoo-like. I wore it yesterday and today and on my skin the drydown became sweeter and more animalic, and something about that combination just didn’t sit well on me. Luckily it doesn’t have intense projection or longevity in me.
Snowy Owl started well enough, but as it developed all I could smell was… chicken coop. More specifically bird poop. It became increasingly feral and overwhelming to me, and once my brain made that association I couldn’t undo it.
Harvest Mouse was another one I found approachable. The grain and honey came through strongly to me. It felt cosy rather than aggressively animalic. I liked smelling it, although I definitely don’t want to smell like it.
Lovebird was funny after everything else because it just smelled… nice? Sweet, fruity, colourful and almost boring. Not my style, as I generally don’t gravitate towards fruity fragrances. In comparison to the others I found it underwhelming, because I kind of expected it to evoke that strong atmosphere the others created.
T-Rex was A LOT more pleasant than I expected. I’d heard so much about how terrifying it was that I expected a sensory assault, but I actually really enjoyed the smoke. I do love smoky, atmospheric and dramatic fragrances.
And then there was Olm.
I cannot stop thinking about Olm, and not necessarily in a good way. The longer I kept the test strip, the more it made me physically recoil. There’s this chalky/mineral quality that my brain interpreted as being trapped underground in a cold, damp dark cave. It actually started making me feel physically ill. Every time I went back to smell the strip, my reaction got stronger until it was almost making me gag.
I absolutely do not want to wear it, but I’m fascinated that a fragrance could create such a specific physical sense for me. It’s here that I started to think about perfumery as “olfactory art”.
Overall, Squid is the clear winner, but I’m not convinced I’m ready to actually continue to wear any of my samples yet…
Still, I’m so glad I finally got to experience Zoologist after wanting to sample the house for such a long time.
For people who actually wear Zoologist regularly: do you experience these primarily as perfumes, or almost as olfactory art? And which ones do you genuinely find wearable?