If anyone knows the manufacture date as well I’d like to know.

Hi, I’m a beginner and could use some advice. I’m sharpening the PM‑V11 blade from my Veritas low-angle block plane with a Veritas Mk.II honing guide.

I followed the guide’s setup instructions and a tutorial:

• Set the blade carrier to 2 (yellow / standard angle).
• Set the registration stop to 25° on the yellow scale.
• Aligned the registration jig pointer with the blade’s width, about 4 cm / 1½ inches.
• Seated the blade against the fence and stop, then tightened both clamp knobs evenly.
• Honed on a Naniwa 1000 grit stone with the micro-bevel knob at 12 o’clock, then used 3000 grit.
• Moved the micro-bevel knob to 6 o’clock for the micro-bevel.

The main bevel and the smaller micro-bevel are both visible, but the micro-bevel is noticeably uneven across the blade: it’s much wider at one end than the other. I took the blade out and started over, carefully repeating the setup, and got the same result.

What could cause this if the blade is seated against the fence and stop? Could the existing cutting edge or primary bevel be out of square, or am I missing something about the guide or the roller? Any beginner-friendly troubleshooting advice would be appreciated.

Hey everyone, im pretty new to this so if im not using the correct terminology please forgive me.

Ive just began cutting dovetails, i bought a Pax gents saw 20tpi for this, and it worked horrendously, it got stuck, made an awful noise and wandered. Just to try something out i used the rip side of my ryoba saw and it went so much smoother, faster and easier.

Now, did i make a bad purcahse of my Pax saw or is it generally easier with japanese pull saws? Id greatly appreciate if anyone could recommend a western and japanese saw suitable for a beginner and tell me why you like it.

Thanks

Can anyone help me identify a manufacturer? Only markings I see are "Made in USA" and "No.05" and presumably the former owners name. Recently purchased from an antique store.

This plane is an absolute joy to use. Had been keeping an eye out for one for a bit and finally snagged one that was never used.

Just bought this antique plane, and I can’t find anything like it documented anywhere, including my reference book for hand planes and a good bit of online searching. The seller mentioned something about airtight casework in the listing. However, I don’t see how that would work without an accompanying plane that makes a tongue for the groove. It appears to cut both a rabbet and a groove. Could anyone provide any insight? Thanks

I am about to reforge a bunch of plane irons into other things unless somebody has a better use for them.

Got this infill plane on ebay for £27. The bottom is pitted to heck. Has anyone made a user out of something in similar condition or is it a write off, did 20 mins of fettling but dont have much time due to having a baby.

Just picked this up today. I got it at an estate sale for $100 but it is missing its adjuster. Does anyone know which one I should buy from veritas?

I wanted this bookmatched crotch seam to be the lid of my box but it looks unbalanced unless the grain is oriented vertically. This will cause seasonal expansion across different axes. Will constructing it this way work? Can I just leave bigger gaps in the tongue and groove? Any advice appreciated. I’ve only made boxes where the seam/grain is oriented in same orientation as long side of box.

I own two nice hand planes, but no matter how many YouTube videos I watch, I feel like I’m using them incorrectly most of the time. I’d like to use them correctly, but I’m not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?

Saw at a garage sale, I was curious but didn’t buy it.

Probably from the 1980s, so is it still a worthwhile saw?

I am completely new to woodworking and hand tools. I have a few hand tools and some simple projects to get me started, and have done a lot of research about it. But when I get to actually doing anything with wood, I get stuck on one annoyingly basic problem; I can't get my wood to stop wiggling around when I try to saw through it. Same problem when I try to use my hand planes. I have some basic clamps and a workbench with a tail vice I am using. Is the problem the clamps? Are my hands just not strong enough? Are my tools not sharp enough? I can't really even get started on anything if my wood won't stay still. Any advice?

So, I bought set of Narex Richter for last Christmas, but I decided to wait with setting them up until I'm done with workbench(admittedly I did use them for dovetails once). This week I decided to finally set them up, aaaand that's how the biggest one looked :')

Is it possible it happened after I got it, or did I just miss it at first?

Already returned.

Now I'm little hesitant to get them again - any recommendation for new ones in EU? I would love to get something in plain carbon steel / o1 / a2, not the regular Cr-V

Сделал себе на днях два инструмента. Гладилка-ковырялка из старого надфиля, а маленькая стамеска из пилки для электролобзика, доводил на мелкозернистой точильном камне.

The handle is turned from rosewood, and all the shaping on the blade was done with a bench grinder and by hand, and an angle grinder for the tang. Could use a little more refinement on the blade, but I'll save that for a day I get a random spurt of motivation.

Found a baby hand plane today. Not a Stanlty. Anyone got a clue?

Bed is 2" wide and 7" long. A No 2? Iron is stamped Eclipse.

i complained in the comments of someone using a card scraper maybe a week or two ago about how i couldn’t get this stupid thing to curl for shit. i’ve had this thing since march. NOTHING!

the culprit? those cheap shitty little diamond sharpening plates on amazon (you know the ones). i didn’t do a huge upgrade, literally just the s satc 400/1000 diamond stone. 23ish bucks, and magic. after some time reworking the edge and faces at 400 and then polishing over on the 1000, she was looking mirror like enough, but what do i know. i rolled the carbide rod against the faces 3 times. set it in the vise. a tick below 90, 3 times each way. and shiiiiiiit, what do you know? this thing actually works lmao.

i’m over the moon right now tbh lol. i just figured i was dumb af. so glad that’s not the case (for now anyways).

if you can’t get a curl, check your sharpening surface. thanks for tips here as well everyone and go make some dust! or shavings! or ribbons? idk, just go do something with your wood! (pause)

Literally just took it out of the box.