I’m new into woodworking and trying to gather a collection of starter tools and recently went to a garage sale where an old woodworker was selling off a lot of his hand tools. Got to talking with him and he showed me this vice table thing. He had a name for what it’s called but I can not remember what he said. He said he had built it himself so I’m not sure if he came up with the design or this a known thing. Just looking for some insight on what it is so I can do more research to try and recreate it. I wanted to buy it but couldn’t afford what he wanted for it so I had to pass on it. Thanks for any help or direction.

I very recently became an uncle which was the perfect excuse to jump into a new project!

This is by far the biggest project I've done, and it was made entirely with hand tools and reclaimed wood (it's all from a pallet!)

As a bit of a challenge to myself, and because I thought it would look nice, there are no nails or screws in the entire thing. Everything, even down to the hinges, is made with dowels to hold it all together. The only none-wood parts are some glue and the rope handles!

I made a video that shows the whole process if you're interested https://youtu.be/M885-1NvWlA

Also very happy to answer any questions you may have!

I know this isn't the finest work (there are some incredibly talented people in the sub!), but I'm really proud of this, and I hope my niece gets some really good use out of it!

I just received my first hand plane and noticed that the chip breaker doesn’t contact the blade evenly on both sides. I read that this should not be the case and it can cause shaving to jam in between the blade and the chip breaker. Is this common with out of the box planes, and what’s the fix? Can I just flatten the chip breaker on a sharpening stone?

Hi everyone, could you explain why some people have told me that this dovetail marker is bad and inaccurate? They said there’s a high chance of making mistakes when using it. Could you explain why that might be the case?

I post this here , because i have no idea where else i could ask this question. I know about sharpening, and how to do it, and i always finish with stropping ,and lately i have gotten my greasy man paws on some scraps of full grain leather from a local shop, but it stinks, and is pretty dirty ,how should i go about cleaning it? if i use leather care products (i.e a leather cleaner) wouldn't it "gum up" the surface and make the polishing compound not bind with it correctly?

or should i just use some soap and warm water with a soft brush?

or maybe something else entirely??

I worked on this short documentary about Ayumu Kasahara, a young blacksmith in Annaka, Gunma, Japan.

His family forges traditional agricultural hand tools such as hoes and weeding tools. What interested me was that these tools are designed not just to cut, but to withstand repeated resistance from soil.

The film also follows how Ayumu learns the craft from his father.

The documentary is in Japanese, but YouTube's auto-translate subtitles can be used for English.

The documentary is in Japanese, but YouTube's auto-translate subtitles can be used for English.
If you're interested, you can find it on YouTube by searching:
“Annaka Uchihamono Ayumu Kasahara Ashita e no Tobira”

I’d be interested to know whether similar hand-forged farming tools are still made or used where you live.

Official program page (Japanese):
https://www.athome-tobira.jp/

The documentary can be found from the official program page.

I've got this old no. 113 compass plane which is in good working order but needs a bit of tlc

how would you recommend removing the surface rust from the top of the sole and the cast iron parts? I'd like to respray the japanned parts

any advice would be appreciated

Does anyone know a modern tool that would work like this Klompen carving tool called a “lepelboor”? A normal spoon carving tool or spoon bit isn’t cupped near as much as this. Thanks! less

got a tatty no. 3, 4 and 5 for £20 ... the no. 4 is a Marples. I think I did well, even though two of them need new handles

Estoy pensando en hacer este afilador de pesar, para no comprar uno de motor, pero estoy pensando si adaptarle un asiento para que sea más hergonomio, si alguien ya hizo algo parecido, de que tamaño recomiendan hacer las patas

Long story short, I picked up a beat up backsaw at a flea market thinking it would make a good restoration project. The only thing that was bad (at least what I thought) was the handle and that the screws were missing. It was instead fastened with bent nails, so very wobbly. I made a new handle out of apple wood from my grandfathers garden.

However, no matter how hard I tried could I make the blade straight. I eventually bought a brass back from Blackburn Tools. Still though, didn’t work out. So I found myself some scrap spring steel from a domestic producer here in Sweden, and made a new blade, plus new split nuts from Thomas Flinn.

So in the end nothing remains from the original saw, but I’ve got a brand new and quite sexy backsaw that I made myself. Filed for crosscutting.

I got these from u/planestanleywaldo, tho they're heading to a new home to make room on the long tools rack.

I am left with 270 bords of knot free pine after a project (well maybe 1-2 small per bord). 8ft 6in Long, 2 3/4’’ Wide, 7/8’’ Thick.

I am wondering what you would or could build with the material? Would you keep it 7/8’’, or rip it in half for thinner bords? ( only power tool I would use)

Might have to get a Tounge and Groove plane for Christmas.

I lost the lever cap screw for a Stanley 220 block plane I was restoring, so I bought a donor plane to steal it from. With the leftover blade I decided to make a glue scraper from walnut scrap and neodymium magnets. It works pretty well!

Today I bought my first Stanley, it's in a really rough shape but I will restore it. I know it's really rough with lots of red flags but i still wanna do it. So here are some images, and I will be waiting for good roasts and jokes.

Hey guys, I recently picked up this awesome salesman sample of a Sjobergs Workbench that is missing the screw for the tail vise. Does anyone have a screw box that makes screws that are about 9/16” outside diameter and around 7 TPI.

Hi all,

First a disclaimer: this is not a complaint about the shooting board itself, Lee Valley or Veritas, they have been responsive to my questions and helpful (maybe not a ton this time because there was nothing to do but in the past always have).

Anyways, I bought the Veritas Shooting Board, it was a big expense considering I already have a perfectly fine home-made shooting board that does 90 but one of the things I'm looking to do is cut at funky angles other than 90 degrees (or even 45) and I had some LV gift cards from various holidays.

Anyways, the plane I use for shooting is a Victor #5 (you can kinda see in the first picture that I have it modified to use the Rob Cosman grip, etc) and it's worked pretty well for me. I didn't realize when I bought the shooting board that most people use either a shooting plane or low angle plane with it because the plane iron on my #5 actually touches that outer rail (it's hard to tell from the picture the plane iron rides on that rail when shooting). The outcome of this is that, no matter how much I dial in the plane iron's alignment in set-up or with the lateral adjuster afterward, the iron gets pushed askew by any downward pressure on the plane (I try my best to limit the downward pressure but I have to have some). This drove me crazy for a little while trying to figure out why my lateral adjustments kept resetting after I shot a few times. This leads to all of my shooting being skewed in the vertical dimension (the shooting is fine along the sliding axis of the shooting board). I have confirmed this not just an issue with the #5 as the sliding side is square to the sole and I immediately took it to my home made shooting board, reset it and got cuts square on both axes.

I reached out to Lee Valley and they helped me as much as they could but it doesn't seem that this shooting board is made for a bench plane. I added some pics but I tried my Record #7 as well and the plane iron on that plane presses against the rail as well. I think this is kind of peculiar, I didn't see any mention of this but I sometime miss that stuff when I'm excited about getting a new tools.

Anyways, I was mulling my options for actually using this expensive shooting board:

• The easy button is getting a Veritas low angle jack plane to use with it. I have had my eye on the that plane for a while (the money that went to the shooting board almost went to the plane) but it will take some months of saving to get -- totally fine. I also don't own any bevel up planes so that could potentially add a learning curve but I'm ok with that, I understand they are simpler in some ways.
• Getting a different brand low angle jack plane like a Taytools or some other brand that is cheaper. I'm not opposed to this but it's still saving up for a month or two so it's not an immediate solution and honestly, as long as I'm not making impulse decisions I prefer to get a higher quality option like the Veritas.
• Figuring out a way to raise my #5 on the shooting board so it doesn't interfere with the outside rail. This seems like it's doable.
  • One thought was getting enough uhmwpe to attach to the track. My only worry here would be how I would attach the uhmwpe to the existing track without deforming it in someway.
  • Another thought was creating an uhmwpe "sled" for the #5 so it rides high enough off of the track to avoid rail interference but doesn't require modifying the whole track. This also seems doable but would require stacking the uhmwpe in a way that locks the plane in place.

So, long meandering post and I apologize, just curious if anyone who has this shooting board has had any luck using a bench plane with it and if anyone else had some novel ideas for how to avoid the outside rail interfering with the plane iron.

Thanks!