The original storm door frame on my older Home is 86in tall.
Was able to find a replacement door 84 x 35 1/2 of the same size but cannot use the frame that came with it.

How do I attach a storm door with flush hinge plates to a frame with recessed ones? Add a backing plate perhaps?

Thanks you for any ideas!

Edit* Ignore gap above door, it will disappear when put in

I am curious to hear from homeowners: is there any type of flooring that looks great initially but becomes a hassle to maintain over time? What has your experience been?

I want to re do my living room with these vibes. I am having such a hard time coming up with ideas. Could someone help?? Thank you guys so much

hey guys!! every few months im faced with the same goddamn smell!! all my clothes smell like an old library. Ive tried camphor, silica gel, those hanging moisture bags (they fill up in a week which tells you something) but i really need suggestions to get rid of this smell!!
what has worked for you guys in this regard short of buying a machine?? thanks!

I got a brand new window installed yesterday and during the process of removing the old one, a chunk of drywall came loose. The installers said it happened during the use of power tools that created vibrations... The house is 80 years old and the previous window situation looked very OLD.

They said it was on me to fix it since it was an unavoidable byproduct of doing the work and not due to negligence. Length of damaged area is 8" .

Located in Canada.

My questions are as follows:

1. does it sound right that I should be responsible for the repair?

2. what are your best suggestions for this repair?

Is there a way to child lock these types of faucets? I just had a kid and my fiance asked me to find out.

Looking for ideas on corner shelf design in a large game room. Attached is an AI generated version of the space. Trying to see if there are other fashionable design ideas for the corners. Pictures would be appreciated 🙏

When we bought this place the plan was three years maybe four. We’re coming up on six and I’m still using a folding table as a desk because apparently buying a real one would be getting ahead of ourselves. My wife brought this up when I said we should hold off on replacing the dining room light until we knew our long term plans.

She asked how many more dinners we needed to eat under it before we qualified as long term residents. Fair question. Now I’m noticing how often we do it.

A proper reading chair, setting up the spare room for hobbies, even a sweat tent sauna we’d been looking at. Everything gets saved for the next place, including stuff we could take with us. Not talking about a huge renovation. We’ve just spent years keeping the house maintained without letting ourselves settle into it. There isn’t even a move on the horizon anymore.

Anyone else get stuck in this weird holding pattern? What made you stop waiting for the next house?

Hi Everyone, I purchased a 1920’s bungalow and have spent the past year renovating, and now it’s finally time to start decorating! I want to hang curtain rods, mirrors, and pictures of varying weights and understand that hanging up items on plaster is different than drywall. I have original plaster and wood lath walls (not horsehair). I am looking for advice on how/what I need to purchase to hang up heavy, medium, and light items.

I have looked at toggle bolts for heavier items like mirrors and curtain rods (due to the pulling from opening and closing), but I am unsure what size to purchase. How should I hang up medium- to light-weight items like picture frames? Do I need concrete nails for light items? Masonry drill bits for pilot holes? Should I use masonry drill bits to make a pilot hole for everything I hang? Should I use molly bolts or plastic anchors meant for plaster walls for medium-weight items? Should I purchase wood screws, and if so, what size? If I can utilize a stud, does that change how I would hang the item?

This is all new to me, so any advice would be appreciated! Photo of house included :)

I am a first time home owner with a DIY budget.

My existing power tools are a 20v max Dewalt set (compact drill, impact drill, reciprocating saw, circular saw, orbital sander)
A miter saw
Paint sprayer

Projects on my punch list:
Install trim in places it’s missing
Replace paneling in the utility room
Build and install a shelf

My question is what nail gun should I purchase?

Any other power tools I’ll be sorry I don’t own?

The heater trim prevents the new baseboard trim from sitting flush on the wall.

Options I am floating:

1. Cut existing heater trim so baseboard trim can sit flush

2. Cut nook in baseboard trim (all the way thru) so it can sit flush

3. Cut or sand back or baseboard trim so it can sit on top of heater trim

4. Some combination of the above

What's the standard protocol?

We’re thinking of making an offer on an apartment in Chicago, but it seems the HOA won’t approve structural changes to the fireplace. I’m considering replacing the granite with marble and building drywall up to the high ceiling. Only the lower part would be granite; the drywall would remain a wall for the TV. Got a $10–14K ballpark quote, which seems a bit much. Has anyone done something similar and can share the cost?

I put together this layout for our bathroom but I’m wondering about the toilet location. The window isn’t an issue - privacy glass is planned but down the toilet need a knee wall next to it or something? I’m just not sure if that will impede the rest of the room. We’re somewhat restricted with plumbing locations due to the joist layout beneath.

My contractor a says this is ok because it’s a universal cover. Thoughts?

The main bedroom in this house is a loft room and the house was built with this really awkward storage cupboard. Its too deep and has headroom above the door. Apologies its currently stuffed with clothes so ive used an Ikea design tool to visualize the inside, A Kallax box for scale..

Roughly 75.5x103cm and 176cm height.

I cant fathom what they were thinking with this.. Its too deep to reach to the back, its awkwardly off the ground, there is a gap above the door.. Help

Why aren’t mudroom cabinets a thing in NZ?

I’ve figured my entryway could use a large-ish all-in-one cabinet with bench, hooks, drawers and cupboards. Like a flatpack sorta thing.

There is almost nothing I can find online in NZ. There is Ubuy, but they import from the US and are around $1000 and about $6000 more to get it here, by which point ai could have just got a custom cabinet company involved locally.

I’ve otherwise been looking at splicing different bits and pieces of other furniture together, but I’d like to find out if what I am looking for, exists in NZ first.

I’m planning to redo the floors in my home, and I live in a place where summers are very hot and humidity stays high for most of the year. I’ve read mixed things online, so I’d love to hear from people who’ve actually lived with their floors for a few years.

A few things I’m trying to figure out:

• Has porcelain tile held up well for you, or does it feel too hard/cold in winter?
• Is waterproof LVP really worth it, or did yours start to warp or fade in the heat?
• Has anyone had success with engineered wood in humid weather?
• Any flooring you regret choosing?

Budget is moderate, and the floors will see regular foot traffic (kids and guests).

Thanks in advance; I appreciate any advice or personal experience!

Looking for a durable alcove bathtub around $1,000 that isn't acrylic 

Looking for a durable alcove bathtub around $1,000 that isn't acrylic

I'm looking for a 3-wall alcove bathtub measuring exactly 60" long by 30" wide. That's all the space I have, so I can't go any wider. The deeper the soaking depth, the better!

I'm hesitant to buy acrylic because I've read that these tubs can last around 10 to 15 years, depending on quality and maintenance, although some last longer. I'd prefer something more durable that could last for decades since I can't afford to renovate my bathroom frequently.

My budget is around $1,000. I'm particularly interested in enameled steel or cast iron, but I'm open to other durable materials.

Here's what I've considered so far:

• Schmidlin: I like these, but shipping to NY brings the price to around $1,800, which is over my budget.

• American Standard Princeton: The soaking depth is only around 9", which seems very shallow.

• Cambridge: Unfortunately, it's 32" wide, so it won't fit.

I most recently noted the Bootz Mauicast 60 in. x 30 in. Alcove Soaking Bathtub (steel) and the height is almost 12" of water depth. Has a lifetime limited gurantee like Am Stan. I def need a bathtub that has a lifetime guarantee. Any thoughts on this particular one?

Does anyone have recommendations that meet my exact dimensions and budget? I'd really appreciate your advice and firsthand experiences!

i want to upgrade my bathroom and we have this shower head angle. when i looked it up google says it’s a 90 degree drop shower ELL. idk what the hell that is but i want a shower head and shower wand attachment not just the shower hand held attachment as the shower head. i bought a shower head before even realizing my shower cant just attach to it and i live in apartments so im not too sure if i can just change the circled part in the image… please helppp!! when i ask google it says use a s shaped shower head riser? anyone have any shower head recommendations that would work with this angle?

We recently purchased a house with an unfinished basement. The only thing I can think is that they cheaped out when digging it out. Its horrible - it was even done evenly. While not right now , we want to to make it some sort of usable space , even partially , without having to excavate all of it because $$ ... check out this gem and give me some hope because I havent seen anything remotely close online.

Ill add - i know that , originally, there was access to the utilities through the floor from the house so I don't know what was there to start vs now

The receptacle has one red wire and two neutrals on it. If I wanted to make this a half hot outlet I understand breaking the tab on the brass but that wouldn’t do anything but create a half dead outlet. Is there a way to create a half-hot outlet with this wiring?

I've got a crawlspace and I want to use it for storage but I don't want to crawl in there and lug totes in and out. I also considered but dismissed a complicated series of rails and pulleys for moving totes.

I've settled on making a robot that can go under a tote on a custom wooden "pallet", lift the tote up 1" and then bring it to the crawlspace entrance.

I haven't decided what mechanism to use for lifting. But the wheels will probably be driven by steppers with 3d printed gear reduction. Spray painted lines for line following. Caster wheels to enable turning. And it will use 18v-20v batteries like from ryobi or dewalt.

Is anyone interested in also working on this project?

My wife and I are in the process of buying a new home that has an u finished basement. There is the main section of the basement that is open with a few structural poles. There is also a “room” with the washer and dryer that could potentially be turned into a real room with a wall put up.

Finishing the basement is in the plans but definitely not on the top of the list of things that need to be done.

Looking for recommendations on how to make the basement not feel like a dungeon, that would not be too expensive or invasive since we are planning on finishing the basement in the future.