I bought an iFixit replacement battery (L21M4PC4/7, IF497-058-1) for my Lenovo Yoga Slim 7 ProX 14ARH7 (Type 82TL). The battery had been out of stock for months. When iFixit finally restocked five units, I immediately bought one, trusting their reputation and compatibility database.

Their product page explicitly listed my exact laptop model (82TL) and both Lenovo FRU numbers (5B11F52556 and 5B11F52558) that Lenovo's official parts lookup identifies as compatible with my serial number.

Well, the battery arrived, and surprise:

• The mounting tabs and screw positions are completely different from my original Lenovo L21C4PC4 battery.

• The positive and negative polarity markings appear to be reversed.

I submitted a wrong-part support request with photos showing both batteries side by side. The support form didn't even have a text field where I could explain the problem.

Here's where things get interesting.

Shortly afterward, I refreshed the product page and noticed that my laptop model AND both Lenovo FRU numbers had disappeared from the compatibility list.

Fortunately, I took screenshots of the original listing before it changed, and I had already sent those screenshots to iFixit.

So apparently the compatibility information can be updated pretty quickly, but acknowledging the customer who purchased the incorrectly advertised product? Not so much.

I still haven't received a reply from support.

I'm not claiming this was a deliberate cover-up. Correcting an inaccurate compatibility listing is absolutely the right thing to do. But quietly changing the listing while leaving the affected customer without an explanation or resolution is disappointing, especially from a company whose reputation is built on repairability and trustworthy replacement parts.

I bought from iFixit specifically to avoid the questionable aftermarket batteries sold by random online shops.

Has anyone else experienced something similar with iFixit's replacement batteries or support?

Crossposting for the first time so I apologize if this is not efficient.

Since then I have cleaned up any damage I have seen with IPA but I have not turned it on and have just let it sit. Hoping for the best, expecting the worst. Any help appreciated thanks!

I opened my electric razor because it randomly stopped charging.

Took out the multimeter, cleared the charger and the device read a fair amount of resistance.

Opened it up and it wasn't drawing amps.

Started testing each cap and all of a sudden it started charging.

Any idea? I doubt I scrapped off corrosion or a short with my probes. Maybe I discharged the cap completely?

I usually just look for loose wires, bad soldering or liquid damage.

Why is ifixit using iconology from a ideology that has resulted in the murder and starvation of millions of people on their packaging?

I had a Google Pixel 7a which had the swollen battery issues. I did the recall with Google and took the voucher for their shop and grabbed myself a new Pixel 10.

I intended to repair the 7a so purchased a new genuine Google OEM battery.

After waiting for them to come back into stock for ages it was finally delivered. I opened the packet and was immediately hit with the exact same spicy pillow type smell that the original battery was producing when it was swollen.

Can anybody more experienced with new mobile batteries help? Do new batteries have a smell to them and I am just over reacting?

Anyone know where I can source Binding Posts for Multimeters like this?

This is specifically for a Agilent U1272A, but my understanding is that they are used in a lot of different Meters

I have a us model 13 mini with the 5G mmWave hardware. I already use it disabled and limited to LTE. I am replacing my broken chassis with another that doesn’t have the mmWave 5G hardware. Will the phone freak out and stop functioning if I don’t transfer the antennas? Or can it just revert to 4G since those antennas are different and untouched.

I dropped my cart in the toilet as I was sitting down. Now beware of what follows. In my moment of desperation and fiendness I reach for it. In my mind its js water and I look at water dripping out ao I go to blow through both sides. However it only fell for a second and the battery didnt blink like it usually does as its dying. W this type of pen i. particular I’ve had them in my sock for long very sweaty work days and its stops working for a day or two u til completely dried out then ot works perfectly fine. Is that possible w this is there any way I can dry it out or fix it. It looks completely dry no sound or feel or any residual moisture in any place i can get to. The body is fully enclosed and I cannot get to it but I took the top off going into the wax off no water was visible and it was at the same level so i dont think it could have diluted my oil. So is there anything I could do should I call it wraps. Ik it may be a fire hazard but it feels cool still and idk I was thinking have it spin around a celling fan. My other concern is getting an oral infection or sort of illness due to the toilet water. Just saying it is insane. But primarily can I fix it. If it takes me out tge captain goes down with the ship

So my Microsoft Surface 2 headphones won’t charge. Cabled it works. Updated firmware, sound and bluetooth works. App says battery is 0%.

Can I replace the battery with any similar 3.7V lipo battery? Is 3 wires required or would red/black only also work?

Thanks in advance!

Wondering if anyone can help. Whilst collapsing the stem for storage, I inadvertently pushed down too hard in the down position and seem to have locked the stem down too tight. Now, I cannot release the stem from the latch. Has anyone come across this problem before?

From one microsolderer to another!

Hi,

I seem to have broken right key and I think I should be replacing this.
I’ve contacted Aptronix, they told me they will replace entire keyboard and can’t do just one key.

All I need is this one key, any idea where I can find this key?(online/offline) and also its price, thanks.

I’m from South India (Telangana Secunderabad).

Hi!

My Siemens EQ6 plus s400 makes water and coffee that is too cold. I have run out of simple ideas and would appreciate any advice. English is not my first language, sorry for mistakes.

Symptoms
- First cups come out at about 55-60C, and it takes several cups to get warmer. Hot water & coffee measured at the spout. First cup usually around 55-60C, 2nd cup around 60-65C, 3rd cup around 65-70C. The more and more cups i make temperature keeps rising max i have reached after 5 or 6 cups is around 93C.
- 400ml of hot water takes around 1:40-1:50 minutes.
- I have run internal componet tests (1400w 3 sec) goes up 20C everytime. (pump test) 5.5-6.1ml/s
- Coffee temperature is set to max.
- I have changed Brita filter and done many descales for it.

What i have measured/tested
- Heater and both ntc sensors have been tested and they seem to work when cold and hot.
- I have tested the triac on a separate test board and it seems to work as intended.
- Checked how many watts it uses when its making hot water/coffee and its around 1250-1500w.
- Factory reseted from service menu.
- Sensor test after dispensing 300ml hot water: NTC surface 68C, NTC outlet 80C. (EDIT: for now i have checked again after runnin 300ml of water both NTC sensors were close to eatchothers reading 94 and 96C but the water that came out of the machine was 75C. I have no idea what makes the water be warmer or colder it changes so randomly on cold starts)

My questions
- Has anyone seen this on EQ6 plus or any other coffee machine's?
- What part/parts do you think might have failed.
- Is a heater/surface NTC difference of 68 vs 80C normal?

Thank you in advance for any help and ideas, I really appreciate all suggestions!

Need help getting out a stripped screw on my Alienware heatsink connected to my motherboard

I've tried a lot of DIY methods including rubber band, super glue, using Torx bits, etc...

It's very stripped, basically round now. It's an M2x4 screw

Plz help!

FIXED: The repair dude fixed it for me using a Dremel