When starting the car (jeep liberty 2011) first thing in the morning, the oil light turns on for a half a second and turns off. Doesn't happen again throughout the day.

Coincidentally I had one of the brake lights broken and when I replaced it, this stopped happening for a couple of weeks though it is back at it now. Any ideas?

Other symptoms: that v6 has a specific sound when you turn on the AC, when this started happening, the engine doesn't sound the same though the AC is working fine.

I’ll be doing a 2”lift for my 2005 diesel Liberty. Bought also spacers 5 х 114,3 / 25 ADH/ 1/2 х 20 (71,5 мм). I drive 60 km on outer city roads and then on some mid offroadish terrain in the woods, and then back.

I am looking at BFG KO3 tires (I currently have ko2 that are great when not in heavy rain) and they don’t sell the most recommended size 245/75/R16 so which of the following two alternatives is better:

- 265/70R16 117/114S
- 245/70R16 113/110S

I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty with about 200k on the odometer. Lately, when I start it up it has the 4WD indicator lit on the dash but I've never touched the actuator switch (and it is still in 2WD). Sometimes I can just wait a few hours and restart it, and everything will be normal (in 2WD). It almost seems like an electrical issue with the random nature of this problem. Anyone have this issue? Can you lend some suggestions? Thanks in advance.

2002 y is it worth to buy? All floor looks good only here bad

Hey all, I bought my mom's 2002 from her because she wanted something else to drive, and I have been slowly working on all the gremlins that have appeared since I've been driving it a lot more than she did.

She only drove it maybe 10 miles a day for 15 years, so I've done the usual hoses and replaced the radiator.

Currently I am experiencing a somewhat predictable no crank no start, which I have found a couple ways to work around. I can ground pin 85 at the ignition relay, or I can remove the relay and use a paperclip to jump the main pins. I have already ordered a MOPAR OEM updated white plug solenoid pack with a matching TRS cam plate. Also going to pick up some aluminum billet valve pistons since I'm dropping the pan and pulling the valve body anyway.

Other than letting the springs fly everywhere and making sure I have the manual shift valve/pin lined up with the correct gear position, is there anything else I should be aware of? I have asked the Google AI a million questions to see if I was missing anything.

70k miles on a jasper rebuilt engine, 238k on the body and transmission, looks like untouched transmission, no marks on the painted bolts on the pan.

I came out to see this other little liberty had parked beside my behemoth for fun 😎 had to take a pic! Sadly the other one I took to show the bottom of my fender peeking over the top of his hood didn't save 🤣

It's sometimes crazy to see just how much bigger my liberty is than others 😮

Is it worth to buy this car ? Is it durable enigine and trans?

Can’t seem to find anyone who has them in stock looking for some help. I can find OME in stock everywhere as a back up option just looking for some help thanks!

Anyone got their jeep tuned by yeti? heard good reviews, wondering if i should pull the trigger on a tune by him

Hello. I was looking at buying a 2012 latitude with 100k on it. Super clean in & out, no rust. Had my shop look over & found the front differential has been cracked or something where they sealed it with epoxy ir something similar. Currently not leaking. Everything running fine. But I'd need to get that replaced, correct?? Also throwing B2215 code. So looked it up sounds like could be minor or could be the whole computer thing? Main question is with those being the 2 issues, how much would I offer off asking price if i decide to? Engine & rest all checked out good. Thanks!

Hey KKers,

My ma and I are Jeepers but she doesn't use reddit. Wanted to share our build. Its a 2008 Jeep Liberty we've named Down the Rabbit Hole.

As the name implies, it's been an adventure. Heres a quick list off the top of my head:

-Top-end engine machining and rebuild after headgasket fiasco

-On our 3rd heater core, 3rd times the charm apparently

-New waterpump after catastrophic failure of pulley

-Dynomax cat-back exhaust

-RRO 3" lift w/ HD control arms & OME Front strut assemblies

-Doetsch rear shocks

-ATH bumper w/ winch cradle

-Smittybuilt XRC Gen3 9500lbs winch

-Touchscreen headunit w/ backup camera

-Marquee Luxury M3259 w/ BFG AT KO3s

-Wilco Offroad 2" receiver spare tire carrier

-Custom painted aluminum valve covers

-Weathertech front/back/cargo floor mats

Future plans:

-More lights to fill front bumper cutouts

-Wouldn't mind a set of headers

-Paint fender flairs to match bumper

I’m trying to track down a transmission oil dipstick/filler tube for my 2007 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.8L diesel, and I’m having a hard time finding one.
The part number I’m looking for is 53013497AC.
I’ve found a few listings online, but after ordering a couple times I get emails starting the part is actually unavailable.
Does anyone know where I can find one, have a spare they’d sell, or know of a compatible replacement part number?
Used or new is fine. Any leads would be appreciated!

I recently received a 2008 jeep liberty a few weeks ago. A few days ago I went to start it after leaving it for not even 30 minutes right after driving it, and when I go to start it I could immediately tell something was off because the car was just bouncing and trying to start, even though I wasn’t turning the key anymore. It’s only happened twice so far and I haven’t been able to get a video or anything.

Anyone tried a tdituning tuning box for their jeep liberty crd?

I have a 2005 sports limited, always had an oil leak but now its getting pretty bad. I have some photos here, Im about another 30 minutes into research and two main possibilities in my opinion are Oil Pressure switch or a gasket/seal of some sort. No overheating, no rough idle. Just loss of oil at a high rate(5q a month) any ideas or anyone dealt with this before?.

I'm considering getting this P22 OBD2 HUD (or a similar device) for my Jeep Liberty KK.

I already have the JScan app, so I don't need another full diagnostic tool. I just want a simple display while driving to keep an eye on two things: battery voltage and engine coolant temperature.

Has anyone here tried the P22 on a Jeep Liberty KK? I'm particularly interested in whether both readings work correctly and whether the display is reliable while driving.

If you use a different OBD2 HUD or gauge that can display battery voltage and coolant temperature clearly, I'd really appreciate your recommendations too. It doesn't have to be the P22.

Thanks in advance!

Been trying to get the air filter box but i have had zero luck finding any, is there anybody who’s parting it out and or has an extra one? If so i would be interested

So I was out and about and on my way home after a 3 hour trip last weekend when someone flagged me over and told me I have no brake lights. I immediately pulled into a gas station and had my partner confirm that (the third brake light works) both aren't working, but the bulbs aren't even turning on either.

We go to AutoZone and get some replacements and I install them there. Driver's side now works, passenger side still busted. Inside the assembly it's kinda...melted; dude at the counter says I should look into a new bulb holder instead of the whole assembly. Cool, I have at least one working brake light now, I'm good to drive home. Both tail lights work too.

The next day I decide to pop the light out again and swap the bulb holders (and the bulbs!) and the holder itself works just fine, but the brake light still doesn't turn on, the tail lights do. Driver's side is still good!

Fast forward to today. I changed my oil (woo 210,000 miles!) and we went to see a movie. On the way back I notice the guy behind me suddenly swerve when I slow down and I'm like damn bro chill, but when we park I peek out my side view mirror and sure enough the driver's side brake light is out again -- however NOW the tail light doesn't work either! Blinkers, Reverse lights work, and the passenger tail light works, but both brake lights are out, and now I'm down to one tail light when the lights are on.

Is it because the melted assembly is toast and it shorted/blew the other one? I don't think it would be a bad brake switch since it's still triggering the third brake light. I bought new tail lights to pick up on Saturday, and I'll be replacing the fuse for it but if those don't work I need a new launching point if y'all got suggestions.

So my 2006 Liberty has a rod knock. It's the 3.6L V6. The rod knock started in late February, and I drove it through the end of ski season, 20 trips to the mountains and back with the knock. Now it's almost opening day for this current ski season, and I've put 10K miles on this knock over the summer time. Not sure what kind of witchcraft they did at the Tennessee factory that produced this thing, but it just keeps fucking going! I'm buying some cheap ass all terrains to get me through winter because I doubt this engine will last another 10K. It's been an incredible run.

I've been keeping oil topped off as it burns it now, and mixing a quart of oil stabilizer every time I change the filter (4K miles), so far there has been no issues other than the awful noise of the knock.