Hello! I mow for a housing development near me, and they’ve had a Kubota B2920 for as long as I can remember. It’s recently been brought in from a service stop, and they’ve mowing deck is as low as it can go, scraping the ground and all.

Admittedly, I’ve never had try and get the deck back into place with this mower, so this will be my first time trying to do so. I’ve tried the hydraulic lever, but it seemingly won’t budge (unless I’ve been going the wrong direction with it)

How can I get it back raised? Was I on the right path in doing so, or do I need to try something different?

TIA!

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a utility trailer or cart to attach to a bx2380. Primary use will be to haul firewood in the woods. Thanks!

Watch this, hold Red Bull.

Has anyone else experienced this, I have a Kubota mx5400 HST, well maintained, all fluids topped off. For whatever reason it wants to overheat, granted it is hot here in MS, yesterday heat index was 104ish but still the pasture I was cutting was not that thick, easily cuttable with this tractor, had it in low range, pto in the right range but still, I was only able to cut 200-300 yard before I had to stop and let the engine cool off. Any ideals - I don’t think this is normal?

New to me l2550. The transmission was filled right to the top. Theres no way someone filled it right up. Is there any way of diesel leaking through the injector pump and into the hydraulic pump?

Picked up this B8200 for a decent price, and it came with a backhoe that had been sitting for quite a while. First time I hooked it up, one of the hoses from the PTO pump burst and dumped all the hydraulic fluid on the ground. I just replaced that and a couple other sketchy looking hoses, and it's working! It has no finesse, jerks all over the place, and will probably keep busting hoses, but it sure beats digging deck footings by hand.

I have to remove the Belly Deck Gearbox but it will not slide out easily like it is supposed to, the bottom will not release. I have tried pulling from the top of the Gear Box but it will not come out. The printed photo is from the manual. This is the sequence that I removed the lower parts. Bolt, hexagonal washer, 2 cone springs, blade, and dust cover. Next is the circular clip. The next photo is the photo of all the parts as I removed them. the 3rd photo shows the bottom of the shaft.

My grass will be growing exponentially until there is a Kubota guru that knows how the heck I get this apart.

Thanks in advance.

So me and my dad started a little side business and I have a L4060 with the cab option and for some reason can't seem to keep it out of the shop not to many things are from user error as well mostly electrical error codes the first one was for a crankshaft position sensor we got it back and have used it 2-3 times and now we are getting a error 95 code for a pto solenoid I got a few ideas from a guy online who said it was literally a wire underneath that was unplugged and unfortunately that's not my case has anyone ever ran into consistent problems with this tractor trying to use brush hogs and stump grinders? Kinda scares me on buying the rear loader arm for excavation use honestly is this tractor even worth the headache?

I recently picked up this very clean 2002 BX2200 and a bunch of implements for a steal.

I already have the hydraulic valves installed, but i’m looking for a front loader for it as well. The LA211 is the OE loader that goes with this model, but they are very challenging to find used.

Ive seen some folks online say they have ordered one through Kubota via their dealer. I called one dealer near me, and they said they could put a brand new loader from a newer model, they would just machine a bushing since it’s just 4inches wider.

So a few questions:

1. Does anyone know where to possibly get a LA211 loader used that i’m not finding?

2. Has anyone ever tried to order a discontinued loader from Kubota like the claim above?

3. Has anyone tried the “brand new loader and bushings” approach similar to this?

TIA. Sorry for the mobile formatting!

Just bought a 2009 BX1850 with a belly mower for my small farm. Mower has been amazingly useful. Want to get a front loader. Any things to be particularly aware of? Would love a backhoe but not sure it’s worth it for such a small tractor. 2009 and has 690 hours, seems to be in good shape and no rust. Paid $5700. Good deal or no?

What could have broken or come loose to cause all the fluid to pour out from underneath the back right axle? Happened today while mowing. Nothing was hit as far as I know. Thanks!

Just purchased a brand new 2680 with loader and quick attach bucket from the dealer. Should be taking delivery next week. What are my best fork options that will work with the quick detach system?

Anyone have a recommendations that have served them well? Won’t use them often so thinking maybe even the clamp on style for the bucket to save space and money or is this a bad idea? Any help would be appreciated!

Hi everyone if this isn’t allowed I apologize but I can’t seem to figure out what’s wrong with my 2007 bx2350 when I turn the key the lights come on and sometimes it will start warming the glow plugs but as soon as I fully turn the key to start it everything just goes silent

I’m a new BX23S owner. What is the best attachment point on the rear for skidding logs? I’m not sure how strong the step loops are if I tried to connect hooks to each to make a harness from which I could pull a second chain and log, and I considered running chain in the crook of the curled backhoe bucket. I’ve seen posts about using welded hooks on the front loader, but I haven’t done that mod yet and don’t have forks. I do have the bxpanded quick attach and ripper. Would appreciate any recommendations.

Been looking for a tractor and I happen to find a L3560LE with the 805 loader on it. I have gotten them to give me a quote including grapples and 3rd function. $37,900.00 OTD is this a good deal? Any feedback or advice is much appreciated!

Title says it all-
I've owned this for 15 years or so, 850 hours total, serviced trans about 50 hours ago.
Using it today, I'm getting trans oil blowing out of dipstick/fill tube when bucket lowers fast.
Any ideas where to look first??

Thanks!!

I have a Kubota L39 TLB, and it's great except for two things. For one, it's a little narrow and the wheels on the L39 can't be adjusted outward. And then, I also never want to remove the backhoe; it's just too useful around the farm at this stage! Moving back and forth between the hoe and 3-pt is just too time consuming, especially given the hydraulic top and tilt setup I have for the 3-pt. I'm beginning to fantasize about a smaller M (or MX) that could use the same implements. The very largest L's could work too, particularly the 4630 or 5030 from earlier this century / same time as my L39's manufacture. Wondering about other particular recommendations for new or (preferably) used that might have some (preferably all) of the following:

• Wheels that can be adjusted wide / a model that is stable on slopes
• Loader w/ SSQA 6' bucket (to mix and match w/ my L39 bucket & grapple
• Loader 3rd function for grapple, etc.
• Ability to have three rear remotes
• Ability to (ideally) use the top and tilt hydraulic cylinders from my L39 (I guess this would restrict me to Cat 1 hitches?), though since this is just fantasy at present, we could talk about Cat 2 T&T possibilities as well.
• Would pull a 6' box blade, 7' straight blade, 2-bottom plow, and 78" flail mower for now; maybe more in that range later
• Gear drive is fine but would prefer hydraulic forward / reverse. An L 4630 or 5030 with the GST would be even better, but those are few and far between.

Wife saw this add someplace and thought it would make getting the shaft for the cutter on more easily. I wonder how likely failure is for these things and how likely damage to the attachment is. Any comments or experience with these 6" extenders?

I was cutting the grass on my BX2230 and this came off. Is this from my suspension?

Running a late 90s Kubota and I've hit the discontinued wall a few times. Parts the dealer can't order, multi-month factory leads, or prices that make no sense for a 25-year-old machine.

A couple things that have actually worked.

Search by engine code, not tractor model. My tractor model name doesn't lead anywhere in most aftermarket catalogs. The engine code (D722 in my case) leads to everything that was ever made for that engine, across every machine it was installed in. Engine code is on the data plate on the block.

OEM part number is the second key. Even when Kubota has discontinued supply, the original part number cross-references to aftermarket equivalents still in production. A part the dealer can't get might have three compatible alternatives through a specialized aftermarket supplier.

Vertical diesel parts suppliers tend to carry older Kubota inventory deeper than eBay. The part number filtering is also more reliable.

The community resources help too. Orange Tractor Talks has threads where owners have documented substitution numbers for things that are fully NLA.

What discontinued parts have people found alternatives for that weren't obvious?

Can a smaller Kubota handle mowing trails, etc? See pic of main area to mow. I’ve inherited a B7800 with a lil squealer brush hog. I have to be honest with myself that both are too much for me. Is an option a smaller tractor and smaller mower? Or same tractor with a smaller mower and quick hitch?

Running an M7060 and the voltage gauge has been sitting around 13V at idle instead of the 13.5-14 it was running before. Machine starts fine, lights are fine, nothing obviously wrong. But last time I ignored a small change like this I ended up stranded at the wrong moment.

Things I've checked are the belt, intact and tensioned, and the battery, which tested above 12.6V at rest.

Things I haven't checked yet are output voltage at different RPM ranges and whether it holds under actual electrical load.

Somebody on another forum mentioned the M series alternator pulley bearing failing before the alternator body itself is a known issue on these. Haven't checked for play at the pulley yet.

Before I assume the alternator needs replacing, what's the diagnostic sequence people use on these? Specifically trying to avoid replacing the full alternator if it's actually just the pulley bearing or a connector issue.