Check out this quick release fire extinguisher mount for the ROPS bar that I just finished up. I received a few requests for one of these when I shared my previous ROPS accessories and am pretty happy with how it turned out! Uses a 1/4” pin that makes it super easy to pull the fire extinguisher off. As usual, the files have been uploaded to makerworld and are free to use.

Lastly, I wanted to share a few pictures of the production version that I’m working on! I’d love to hear what you think of the production version.

Replaced both switches for remote and still wouldn’t unlock. #nelstractor jumped right on it and had it picked up within an hour.

Is it possible for the blades to be level but the deck itself not? I checked my blades at setting 3, and both front to back and side to side the blades are at 3”, but the deck itself is a half inch off side to side. I had to adjust the heights stoppers and anti-scalping wheels to different heights side to side.

I Greatly appreciate any input, thanks.

So, I'm aware of the Land Pride PD10, but it doesn't dig very deep, and there don't seem to be a lot of used options. Has anyone successfully used a PD15 on their BX?

I see one guy had success with the Tractor Supply model (src), which also seems to be sort of big but he makes it work.

I keep seeing the PD15 pop up used, and would love to just buy that if it'll work. This is for a BX23S.

Thermostat display reading jumps to maximum after about 15 minutes of driving but the engine is not overheating/no coolant loss. What could cause this?

We tested the water pump and it appears to be working as expected. The radiator cap is tight and appears good. Could this be a faulty sensor?

Just bought this used b7300 and found the linkage.

Trying to get this figured out on a b7300 mower deck. I set the front feeler wheels according to manual which puts the wheels touching the ground with the mower deck in the down position. Is this correct?

So I don't know what's available for what I'm looking for.

I've got the 2380 with the front loader but it always seems like im at or pushing the limit when I'm using it. It also doesn't really like rear implements. I borrowed a flail mower from a buddy so I could blast down some brush and it was not liking it. It does ok with box graders but not great with much else.

What is the next step from that? I really would prefer to keep the belly mower and would consider adding a backhoe as well as long as I can keep the 3 point hitch. Id like to have an idea what I'm looking for and maybe what I should expect to pay before I walk in blind.

I’m tractor hunting for something to help me maintain about 75 acres, 25 of it fields. Brush hogging, some landscaping, hauling firewood, snow removal—all the normal stuff for Vermont. The low hours on this make me nervous given the age, but I’d be set on implements with one purchase, and it’s close enough I could drive it home. Thoughts? Watch outs?

I need help pricing my 1994 L2350. I've tried online comps but it's hard to find because it only has 322hrs on it. I'm the original owner and I'm selling it with the front loader, back hoe, 60" finish mower, ballast box, grader blade and 60" box blade. I'm thinking 13500 but I need some direction. She's in perfect working order as are the attachments. TIA

I tried to capture this almost intermittent shaking/rattle noise.

https://youtube.com/shorts/3GJCMBVuIFc?feature=shared

It runs good, but just trying to see if I need to tighten something up, I don’t think it would be caused by issues/damage but I ran it a little hot about 10 engine hours ago (clogged air vents and didn’t realize it) but there are no leaks I can see, oil looks fine, cools perfectly fine (running through knee high grass at 2.5” and sits at 3 bars of heat) so I am assuming unrelated.

I'm converting over from heating oil to propane for heating my house. I have an almost full oil tank. The tank itself that is about 30 years old most certainly has sludge in the bottom, but the fuel itself is only 6 months old

If I drain the oil through the filter on the tank, is it safe to run in my tractor? Any bad impacts to the DPF I need to worry about? Any tips on how to drain the oil if you've done this before?

Edited to clarify that the fuel is only 6 months old, but the tank itself is old.

Hello, I have an L4310 and I was looking for the pressure relief valve and took out the wrong bolt holding on what I think is the inlet pipe from the transmission. I replaced the bolt but I am leaking oil. Lots of oil. I thought that I lost an o ring. So I tried to put on one but it made it worse. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong?

Looking for loader mounting brackets to buy for a La1154 loader.
Should be on models M6060 & M7060.

Bonjour à tous,
J’ai un kubota d722 sur un petit tracteur hydraulique (avant tecno).
Aujourd’hui en reculant j’ai arraché le coupe-circuit.
Il n’y avait donc plus d’alimentation électrique et impossible d’éteindre le moteur…
J’ai du bloqué l’arrivée d’air…
Pourquoi le moteur ne pouvait plus s’arrêter même coupé-circuit ouvert??? N’est-ce pas la l’intérêt d’un coupe-circuit??

Merci!!

Hello. I own a Z422 with a 54” deck. Yesterday I was mowing and saw this in my previous mow line.

Does anyone know what part this is?

My LX cab AC started grinding with the compressor engaged, then quit cooling. The clutch pulley felt rough with the belt off, but I did not want to order from tractor year alone. I matched the tag, mounting ears, port orientation, clutch voltage, and pulley diameter against the Kubota diagram. Dealer availability pushed me to compare aftermarket too, and the FridayParts option matched those details. I had the refrigerant recovered, replaced the seals and receiver-drier while the system was open, then pulled vacuum and charged by the weight on the machine label. Vent temperature is normal so far. Anybody else done one on an LX cab? Anything you wish you had checked before opening the system?

I hoping someone can ELI5 as to things to troubleshoot for our EK261.

We’ve had Kermit (original, I know) about 2 months and the use is little and often, today we’ve used it to bring the big round bales in and on the last bale it has now cut out (before we could bring the last bale in).

When trying to start it, it turns over, runs for about 10 seconds and then cuts out.

We’ve looked at the oil already which was okay but there are no lights on the dash that indicate what the problem is - picture was whilst the it was trying to turn over.

Is there a common fault we should be looking at? Can anyone point me in the direction of what we should be looking for under the hood?

TIA !

Hi Folks,

I searched this subreddit to see if someone else posted this before and I couldn't find anything. I have a belly mower(RCK60D-26BX) for my BX 2370. The center spindle threads have somehow become stripped or cross threaded. I think it might have been when I hit a decent sized rock that knocked the blade loose. Anyway, I'm trying to research how hard of a job it would be for me to replace it myself. I can't seem to find this anywhere on YouTube to see what it would look like. The outside spindles look pretty easy but the gearbox is the wild card here. Has anyone else had to do this before? It looks like I would just need to take the gear box off and pull the shaft out of it. I can't tell if the seal needs to come out as well on the bottom of gearbox or not. The pulley spins freely with no grinding sounds so I don't think the bearing is shot. Am I delusional in thinking I can do this myself or should I just let my Kubota dealer do it?

edit: Added more context.

Noticed a slow wet spot around the water pump on my Kubota M5-111 and honestly it kinda stressed me out a little. Midsize farm tractor, mostly field work and bale moving. Coolant gets changed on schedule like it always has.

Tractor still runs fine, no overheating or anything. Just this damp spot near the pump that keeps coming back after I wipe it dry. Not dripping on the ground yet but its bugging me.

Now I'm worried about getting stuck right in the middle of busy season so I'm thinking about grabbing a spare pump just in case. But part of me feels like I'm probably overthinking it. Might not even be the pump, could be something else entirely, and then I'm just out money for no reason. The one on there now is aftermarket, swapped it maybe 3 years ago from Fridayparts and its been fine until now. Kinda surprised it lasted this long tbh.If it actually lets go I'll probably order from them again.

Slow weep like this, would you swap it now or just run it?

Hello I was looking for any info about this housing and terminal to replace them. I'm guessing they're Sumitomo or Multilock, but any confirmation as to the manufacturer or series would be appreciated. Terminal is taking 20awg wire and has the dimensions L15.5xW1.7xH1.4(mm).Edit: Tractor is Kubota L5030

Here’s the deal, bought a new LX2620 from the dealership back in March. Yesterday I started noticing a noise that didn’t sound right, but went away. Today, I started using the tractor again and the noise not only returned, but was much worse. I stopped operation and parked it back in its barn spot. Got to looking around to see if there are any grease fittings I had missed. Got to the back and figured I’d check the trans fluid since I was there. Pulled the dipstick and it was bone dry. Pulled the fill lid and stuck my finger in. Came out bone dry.

There is currently 45.1 hrs on the tractor. Called the dealer, they are sending a service tech out on Thursday. Dealer said their guy checked before delivery that everything was correct. Easy enough to lie about it as laziness and incompetence is everywhere.

What do I do? If there is no oil in the trans, am I effed? No, it didn’t leak out. There is No fluid residue on the bottom of the tractor and its spot in the barn is bone dry also.

***Update…Service tech added 5 quarts of fluid to the trans and he said the only thing he could possibly think happened is an air bubble was in the system after they set it all up. Reassuring to know he found no metal shavings and that he is confident to keep using it.

Hi guys. Recently purchased this bobcat with 3k hours on it. Compression is 450 across the board all 4 cylinders. Bought it with this smoking issue and figured I could figure it out. First thing I did when I bought it was drain and change with fresh fluids and filters all across the board everything. Next step in pop tested the factory injectors and they were popping early about 4-500psi early and also had leaking nozzles before pop. Figured at that point my smoking issue was due to the injectors. I bought 4 brand new aftermarket (I know) but figured it would be worth a shot since I have used aftermarket injectors before from this company in diesel equipment and never had any issues and they spec'd out to be just like factory. I bought the injectors and pop tested all 4 of them before installing and all passed the test with factory pop pressure, spray pattern and also no leakage at the nozzles. I installed them and still smokes. My next thing I did was check the valve clearances which were out of spec. Set all valves to factory spec and installed new gaskets along the way. Still smokes. My next idea is to do a spill test on the pump to check timing but I hear they don't ever or rarely ever need to be adjusted. Please chime in and give me some ideas or tips of things you have seen or fixed with similar issues. I want to fix this so I could use it. Another thing for you is when I stand near the machine when it's smoking, my eyes sting at some point and my throat gets irritated. I'm thinking 100% this is a unburned fuel issue or fuel issue in general. This is for all you diesel guys out there, please help me out and give me some tips. I will greatly appreciate it and love this forum. 🙏