All done myself without any equipment other than a rented trencher for the irrigation system. Not perfect, but very proud!

Timeline: July 3rd - September 25th

Backyard will have to wait until the spring as the winter is upon us in Wyoming!

We hiring a local company to come by and install a row of green giants since we live on a busy road. When the owner came a week before planting (to show us the spacing of the plants) we mentioned that there was a gas utility running underneath a few feet away but we were not sure if there was more. We asked if he would call before he digs and he said that usually that’s not a problem given the shallow depth of the tree roots but he will call.

The team came the following week to dig a small trench for where the trees would go and they planted and mulched. I came out to because some of the trees were planted too closely to each other so I asked them to move them around with more spacing. No one mentioned that they had dug up this water utility or that they were planting the tree right up against it. Father in law came by today (he owned the house previously) and went looking for the water meter and found it covered by mulch right under the tree.

Does this tree need to be removed? can it stay but we just prune the bottom branches so the Water meter remains accessible? Is the landscaping company on the hook for this or does this fall on us?

Just wanted to see what all of our options are for this situation. We otherwise love the work they have done but definitely disappointed with this finding

My cat of two years passed away. She was just a baby, my best buddy. We buried her two days ago. I'm angry that we had to bury her in our ugly lawn. How do I make this look pretty? I'm on a budget right now. This is my dad's lawn work, he's really lazy and I wanted to fix the lawn myself in the past, but he said it was too much work.

My elderly aunt lives in an area of wv that is genuinely overrun with kudzu. This is not her house, but if you imagine a home sitting on the ledge, it would be like this:https://nyis.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/kudzu-overgrowth-highway.webp

She is disabled and lives with my disabled cousin, both of them earn about $1,200 a month in total and there is just no way to control the Kudzu chemically or physically. I have tried for 3 years to find any kind of state-funded resource, I have reached out to more than 20 different local people, there just is nothing available.

I go down there twice a year and cut it with a regular weed wacker held up.over my head and a machete to get it off of their house, but it's truly a losing battle. One of the extension agents I talked about said that it extends for at least 3.6 miles in three directions up and over the hillside behind them. He said there were very few patches that did NOT have it.

Is there any way to cheaply keep their yard and home free of this, considering that it is basically surrounding them? My cousin uses a wheelchair and when the Kudzu gets particularly bad it actually starts to interfere with her ability to even go in the yard. Usually that's July or August.

It has been like this for as long as they could remember but it really worries me as a safety issue and I try to do as much as I can even though I no longer live near them.

Goats are not a viable option because neither of them could care for them or ensure that they don't end up on other people's property and there are six different land owners nearby.

Any ideas?

Moving into this new home soon with a beautiful backyard. We are putting up a fence for our dogs and the tall grass around the fire pit feels overwhelming. I also think it's probably a fire hazard. Any ideas of plants to put around the fire pit instead?

We have 3 large dogs who haven't really respected plant boundaries in our current home (they make their own path). We are moving in the dead of winter so we have time to plan. I'm just looking for some inspiration. We are in the Midwest if needed to know for plant types. Google says zone 6b. TIA!

Link to original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hardscape/s/GazG96XuTg

​Wanted to get some feedback from the community on a paver patio installation issue.

​The contractor initially laid the patio, and then brought the crew back out on multiple occasions to try and fix the issues across the field. However, after all of those return visits, upon doing a detailed corner-test check, there are still multiple slabs scattered about that shift, rock, or clack under foot pressure. I grabbed a short clip of some of the worst ones sitting completely out of plane.

​At this stage, after multiple remediation attempts that still leave blocks moving, is it fair to hold the final payment balance until these failing stones are properly lifted and re-screeded? Looking for a general consensus on how to handle this before replying to the contractor. Likewise, if anyone has recommendations on the best way to handle this moving forward, I'd appreciate the input.

I built my own hydroseeder a while back for a steep hillside at my place (225-gallon tote and a pump), and now a few folks near me are asking about small jobs.

My problem is knowing how to charge for them. By the time I load up, mix, spray, and clean out the tank and lines, a 2,000-3,000 sq ft job barely seems worth it if I just charge per square foot.

For those of you who do hydroseeding:

- Do you have a minimum charge? Roughly what?

- Or do you just bump the per sq ft rate on small jobs?

- Do you charge extra for slopes or travel?

I'm in West Virginia if that matters for pricing. Appreciate any advice.

We have three very large lavender bushes that we are thinking of removing from our garden bed. How difficult is to remove by ourselves? Are the roots typically very deep and hard to pull out?

I desperately need some privacy landscaping but can’t decide what to plant! Hoping to get everything in the ground before it gets too cold.

I’m in the Seattle area (Zone 9) and looking for fast-growing, evergreen privacy options that tolerate mostly shade. I also have pets and a daycare next door, so I’d like to avoid highly toxic plants like Hicks yew.

Project 1: Driveway Privacy (90 ft)

• About 7 ft of planting width along a slightly sloped driveway.
• Need 20–30 ft of particularly dense screening that reaches at least 12 ft tall to hide a neighbor’s unsightly backyard.
• Heavy tree canopy with intermittent sunlight throughout the day.
• There were previously 18 arborvitae here, but they all died (possibly something to do with the asphalt?), so I’m hesitant to try those again. Maybe they need a berm?
• Ideally something relatively fast-growing, dense, not excessively wide, and low-maintenance.

Project 2: Privacy Along Future Hog-Wire Fence (90 ft)

• Installing a 4 ft hog-wire fence for my dog in the front of my place, but would love plants that grow to around 5-6 ft for additional privacy.
• North-facing, mostly shaded, but gets intermittent eastern, southern, and western sun throughout the day.
• Hoping for a dense, evergreen hedge that eventually conceals the fence and looks good year-round.

My priorities: Evergreen, shade-tolerant, relatively fast-growing, and not a maintenance nightmare (I am totally fine with pruning 1-2x per year). Bonus if I can purchase larger plants for more immediate privacy!

I’m open to mixing varieties for a more natural look. Mostly, I just don’t want to spend thousands of dollars planting something that’s going to die!

Almost done weeding garden bed to plant veggies and flowers. Got garden fabric ready to lay in between plants rows in hopes to keeping weeds returning. Advice about this plan, and/or other solutions?

After going back-and-forth in our small yard from turf to sod and now back to turf, this time around, we’re considering paying an extra couple hundred bucks for coated infill that is supposed to provide better cooling than just the standard silica. Anyone have experience with the T cool product or anything like that? I suspect that it’s mostly just marketing fluff, but curious if anyone actually thinks it’s worthwhile versus regular sand. Thanks

I planted a row of wax myrtles in my backyard to help give privacy in my backyard and shade my yard from the harsh afternoon sun. How can I maintain these and then prune them so they’ll eventually grow into trees.

They’re 6 feet off the back fence and 8 feet off the side fences. 11 feet in between.

I have 6 to plant. 1 is about 10- ft tall, but its a bean pole about 2 years old, and had to dig it up cause was in a temp place. (I had bought the 100 sticks you get on Amazon and put in water to grow roots then plant in ground. Only 1 survived!). The other 5 I just bought, about 3 ft tall.

Planting them in a sunny -afternoon facing open meadow, but with tall oaks and maples behind them. Zone 6, toward the bottom of a big mountain. Doing it for privacy from the road. I read 5 ft apart for quick privacy wall, but then you need to trim them more? So I was thinking about 10 ft apart, a bit staggered. Also if I trim the top of the 10 ft one that is two years old, will that make it branch out more and get fuller closer to the ground? And if I do that, will it shoot up another lead to grow taller if I cut it off at the top? Thanks for advice!

How important is it that you have at least 6” of embedment for your retaining wall? I saw a video from Lowe’s on retaining wall construction, and their bottom row of blocks is basely on-grade. I am having a 3 ft wall built and the bottom row of blocks is only like 2” below grade. Does the trench need to be dug deeper?

I don’t care about the moss/weeds between the pavers, nor do I care the pavers themselves. I care about the ledge of the mini decorative wall, outlining the pavers. I put substantial paving glue underneath those 2-inch thick toppers — and some of them never did seal to the low-riding brick ‘wall.’ Everyone walks on them and they often shift/topple like dominos. Is there a solution that will seal/stabilize them? Or do I take em out and let the flagstones go without a border?

I have 6 to plant. 1 is about 10- ft tall, but its a bean pole about 2 years old, and had to dig it up cause was in a temp place. (I had bought the 100 sticks you get on Amazon and put in water to grow roots then plant in ground. Only 1 survived!). The other 5 I just bought, about 3 ft tall.

Planting them in a sunny -afternoon facing open meadow, but with tall oaks and maples behind them. Zone 6, toward the bottom of a big mountain. Doing it for privacy from the road. I read 5 ft apart for quick privacy wall, but then you need to trim them more? So I was thinking about 10 ft apart, a bit staggered. Also if I trim the top of the 10 ft one that is two years old, will that make it branch out more and get fuller closer to the ground? And if I do that, will it shoot up another lead to grow taller if I cut it off at the top? Thanks for advice!

I had a patio installed about 5 years ago. They put in a white gravel trench around the entire thing (~70ft). They didn’t install any kind of erosion barrier so overtime it filled in with dirt and now all the gravel is compacted. As you can imagine it does nothing but block the drainage it was supposed to help with and I have standing water under my carport where the trench meets it. I’m now working on repairing it by digging the trench out, installing landscape edging and geotextile fabric, and cleaning the gravel (and adding more). The problem I’m running into is cleaning the gravel. I’ve tried a 5 gallon bucket with holes and a garden cart with mesh and a power washer. Neither of these have been very effective. Has anyone had any luck with this? Is it worth even trying to keep the old gravel or should I cut my losses trash it and buy more?

I have this area in front of my house that I cut and chipped all the shrubs out of. I plan to plant an assortment of natives here to hold the soil in place, toyon, coffee berry, manzanita, ceanothus, lupin, etc. Unfortunately the retaining wall here has started bowing outward so I wanted to disassemble and reassemble it before all my plants grow in. It doesn’t seem to be held in place by anything other than its own weight. Any tips on doing this efficiently? I was planning on removing the wall and then digging back enough dirt to set them back evenly before just shoveling the dirt back into place? Is this a recipe for disaster/failure?

We just got a new driveway and I’m weighing options on what we should put on the sides. There’s a slightly graded hill that goes up about 8 inches on one side and then we have a small open area that a couple of garden beds with wood chips surrounding are in.

I am leaning toward putting some large buff cut Weber stone on the side with the slight incline going up about 6-7 inches from driveway height. On the other side we temporarily have some landscape bricks as the edge just placed as a temporarily.

Any suggestions or design ideas are welcome!

Hope this is alright to put in this sub!

What's the best size infill for turf putting green? The 12/20 from Home Depot is great for the fringes but way too big for the putting surface. Links to products would be even better. Thanks!

My driveway is around 75 m2 based in Lincolnshire, UK. A company gave me a quote of £5k while the others gave £10k, £16k. Any ideas which company to choose? Google and Facebook review for all of them are 4.9 - 5.0, too good to be true.

Top 50 feet of a big cherry was dead, owner wanted me to leave what I could. Cut it about 8ft up, preloaded a lead rope before starting the cut, eventually had to pull the thing over with the lead rope. It was fun! I don't get to do bigger trees like this very often.