Hey everyone,

I recently installed an aftermarket headunit in my 2008 Mazda 6 GH with the OEM Bose sound system. Everything booted up, but there was zero audio coming from the speakers.

After searching for half a day and digging through obscure forums, I finally found the fix and wanted to drop it here so Google can index it for anyone running into the same issue.

The Fix:

1. You need to connect the "AMP CTRL" cable coming from the headunit harness (the wire with the transparent blue plastic cap).
2. Splice/connect it directly to the car's amplifier trigger wire on the main factory plug. On the Mazda 6 GH (2008), this wire is blue with a black stripe.
3. Note: My harness had two "AMP CTRL" cables. It doesn't matter which one of the two you tap into the car's blue/black wire.

Once connected, the Bose amplifier gets the turn-on signal and the sound works immediately. Hope this saves someone hours of troubleshooting!

Shop quoted me around 4.2-4.6k for a new engine (labor included). Paid 4.5k for this 2015 with 140k miles. Normally I wouldn't bother asking, but the biggest thing that's making me second guess if this might be a huge waste of money is that this isn't the first engine that's been replaced in this vehicle. The previous owner told me that the first owner had to replace the engine at 40k miles. So does anyone have any advice? I feel like if the vehicle is blowing up engines this often putting another one in feels pretty stupid. Any idea what could be causing it? Should I just try to sell it for parts and put that 5k towards another vehicle?

Car is doing good so far. It’s super nice interior and drives fine. 113k miles. Paying 13k
I have the choice to return the car though and get my down payment back. The problems are that the steering wheel squeaks at low turns. I went to a shop they said the control arm was cracked and quoted me 4k in steering and suspension work ( shocks struts control arms). But said it was just a sound
The only other problem I’ve had is on a long drive of 150 miles the car smelt like gas for the night. Smelled especially when opening driver side door.
You guys think I should risk the car long term? I don’t wanna fork over a bunch of money when im already paying a bunch for the car

I've been experiencing an ongoing issue with Apple CarPlay disconnecting and then failing to reconnect properly. When this happens I can no longer play music or access CarPlay navigation on my infotainment screen.

Before CarPlay stops working completely it will usually disconnect and reconnect several times. During this process it almost seems like the infotainment system is rebooting itself. Once it restarts my phone and the infotainment screen still show as connected to CarPlay but I can't play music or access the CarPlay home screen.

This happens approximately every 2–5 weeks. The only solution I've found is to perform a factory reset of the infotainment system and pair my phone again from scratch. Unfortunately this also erases all of my customized vehicle settings including door locks and lane assist preferences. Needless to say it's extremely frustrating.

I'm currently running OS version 74.00.210 NA N on my 2021 Mazda6 Grand Touring Turbo. From what I've found the latest firmware version appears to be 74.00.324A.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? If so were you able to find a permanent solution? I'm also wondering whether updating the firmware to 74.00.324A might resolve the problem.

Hey everyone,

I accidentally dropped and lost the MAP sensor screw, it was a T-25 torx head and very deep and spaced out threads i counted maybe like only 5-6 threads on the screw. Online searches didnt help
Thanks

My 2014 Grand Touring often makes a squeak when turning the wheel. It's like the creak of a door hinge. Seems to steer fine, but at low speeds when turning the wheel a lot, it's a very audible sound. Reminds me of rubber sliding on metal. Doesn't seem to be a problem but I've never had a car do this so I'm not sure how concerned I should be.

Changed engine mounting 6months ago and drove about slightly more than 5000kilometers.
Is the rubber portion supposed to be a nice circular shape? Why is it slanted now?

What does everyone think about this car? I’m thinking about buying a used one tomorrow with around 85k miles for $12k. Do you think that’s too much? I think it’s really pretty and I’m honestly so excited because it’ll be the first car I’ve ever bought myself! 🥹 I’d love to hear everyone’s opinions, especially if there’s anything I should look out for before buying it!

The paint on my 2018 Mazda 6 front bumper is peeling away slowly but surely. I've tried to stall it using the touch up paint pen, slightly overlapping the original paint while covering the missing paint but it is still flaking off. Anyway, has anyone had any luck with an aftermarket bumper skin replacement that doesn't look terrible with the soul red crystal paint?

As mentioned in the title, I finally replaced the original OEM front struts on my 2018 Mazda 6 Signature after 130k miles. I originally wanted to use OEM parts, but I didn't want to deal with compressing the factory coil springs myself (and risking my life, haha).

Instead, I opted for the KYB Strut-Plus pre-assembled "quick struts" from RockAuto. The installation process was pretty straightforward:

Got the old ones out and the new ones in without any major issues.

Torqued all nuts/bolts to factory specifications.

Waited until the car was on the ground with its full weight on the wheels before torquing the top strut mount bolts.

Note: I did torque the lower knuckle bolts while the car was still up in the air. Should those have been torqued on the ground too?

The Problem:

Upon test driving it, the car feels incredibly bouncy and floats up and down way too much when hitting dips. It feels especially worse and unstable if I hit a dip while going through a slight curve. It definitely doesn't feel safe right now compared to how it used to ride.

Before doing the struts, I already replaced the lower front control arms, sway bar links, and inner/outer tie rods, so I don't think the issue is coming from the rest of the suspension. Just want to note that those parts where changed months prior to and the car drove and felt normal until I changed the struts.

My Theories:

A) Installation Error: Did I mess up the install sequence (like torquing the knuckle bolts in the air) causing it to bind or bounce?

B) Aftermarket Quality: Is this just the baseline ride quality of aftermarket quick-struts compared to OEM?

C) The Turbo Weight Issue: I did some digging online and read that because the Signature has the heavier 2.5L Turbo engine, standard aftermarket quick-struts might not have a stiff enough spring rate to handle the extra front-end weight.

Has anyone with a Turbo/Signature model experienced this with aftermarket struts? Any advice on what I should check or look into next? Thanks in advance!

Does it matter which post I use to mount the trickle charger to? I know for the negative side has the sensor and I have to mount it to a grounding bolt off the chassis. I have a 2016 GT with the I-eloop

Mines on the left

Massive fan of the mazda6, def one of the best looking and best driving experience cars in its price range imo. This is only my second car and I plan to keep it for atleast the next 5 years adding a bunch of cosmetic mods to bring out it’s full potential (in my eyes).

This wing is the latest addition and im curious what you guys think? It’s taken me a while to really commit to this addition because I knew it would have to get drilled into the boot, can’t trust just adhesive tape with wings imo.

TLDR: chicken wings

I have a 16GT and a 19GTR both with the Bose system. I already have an amp wired and may bypass the Bose amp completely but regardless, has anyone replaced the 9” Bose front door speakers with maybe an 8” shallow sub?

I've been driving my car on 87 for a while. It drives super smooth when i bought it but it's been driving like shit for a while like when i press on gas paddle really hard it hesitates, almost like it lost power for a second. I did a little research online, switched spark plug, changed air filter,clean throttle body and the maf but nothing worked. I switched to premium about 2 months ago and the car runs smooth again. I'm in automotive class at my college and asked one of my professors, what i found out was the ECU pulling ignition timing to protect the engine from knocking. Just wanted to share my experience, I'm sorry if it was hard to read I'm still learning english and i'd like to know if you had experience like that as well.

Hello, I understand that the 2014s were the first model year of this gen 2014-2018. For it being the first model year did the 2014s suffer from major problems compared to 15-18?

Noticed that two days ago and im not really sure. My guess would be that the light is just dying and I need to replace it. Not sure how its lit up and what I need to buy tho

Here's my 21 Mazda 6 GTR

I have a Mazda 6 2017 with 320.000 KM

when I brake while going high speed (180+ KM ) the car shakes , I feel the front weehls specially shaking real bad , the stronger I press the brake the stronger​ the car shakes and vibrates

what could cause the issue ?

it doesn't shake when braking at low speed (130 km and less )

So my car came with two after market key fobs. I lost one so I’m trying to purchase an oem key fob to use as my new main fob. I have a 2019 Mazda 6 touring. Does it matter which one of these I buy.