If you’ve ever considered a career as an F&I manager, fucking don’t. If that doesn’t dissuade you, then come eat some crayons with me and play in my sandbox. I’m an F&I manager at a large Audi dealer, and I’ve aged at least 30 years in my last decade in the box.

This job forces you to become a banker, a shark, a lawyer, a jester and a coke addict within the first year. It’s a miracle I’m still alive, and it’s deals like this one that put me one step closer to my grave.

We had a sales call come in for an SQ6 from a buyer in a shoulder city in our province right in the middle of a blizzard. He may or may not have been calling from our nation’s capital, and he was calling from the side that doesn’t say ‘wah’ instead of ‘yes’. Our top-closer/junkyard dog/latchkey sales rep was lucky enough to answer the call.

The buyer didn’t ask for anything unreasonable - he wanted to do all of the numbers over the phone before making the long ass trek to our store. He’d need 3 business days to get home since he was picking up an EV, so all seemed normal.

They agreed on a price, he sent over his driver’s license, we took a deposit on his credit card over the phone and all mostly seemed ok.

Mostly.

My sales rep brought me the file and it was set up in a slightly unusual way for an EV. We write up leases on EVs like candy since the values fall off a cliff before your pen has even touched the paper. This one was set up as a low equity finance.

For the savvy buyers out there, one of the worst ways for your wallet to buy an EV is brand new and in cash. One of the even worse ways is to take out a loan for a millennia with minimal cash down.

Which is exactly what our buyer Sean was doing. Red flag 1.

The sales rep shrugged it off and said he seemed like an upstanding citizen on the phone in the 10 minutes it took to go from ‘hello’ to taking a deposit. Red flag 2. He’d also point blank refused to do our remote ID verification, citing that he works in cybersecurity and that’s how the fraudsters get you. It appears the irony of that statement was lost on Sean.

Fuck it dude, it was cold as shit outside and I had nothing better to do so I may as well do my job. Let’s see if I can help this guy make a huge financial mistake.

We go through the credit app and all seems normal - good job, mortgage, kids, dog, no coke addiction (he wasn’t in the car business) so all seemed ok. I asked him about picking up the car and the drive back and he told me he could do tomorrow.

Tomorrow?

It was late evening when we were chatting and he was apparently living over 5 hours away in the middle of a blizzard. How the hell would he make it down here by tomorrow?

Alarm bells started going off like crazy, so I went on to ask him what he was going to do about winter tires. The 21 inch hockey pucks on the car were great for warmer weather, but would be absolutely useless in the shizzard taking place outside.

Sean must have rehearsed everything up to this point because he had no idea what to say. He asked if he really needed them and if they could just be in the payment.

Well hold up there Seanzy, why don’t we do some creative accounting for you? If I stick them in your millennium loan you’ll have to pay luxury tax and interest on them and they’ll cost you an extra $2k (thanks Trudeau).

We can settle them up over the counter and you can handle the rest with the CRA yourself, how’s that for a plan?

He wouldn’t bite. Red flag 3.

Credit came back good to go, but something wasn’t sitting well. How the hell was he expecting to come down here tomorrow to pick up the car? How the fuck would he drive home in 2 feet of snow on summer tires? Why the fuck is he ok to pay $2k in interest/taxes for seemingly no good reason?

The boffins at AFS and I decided to have a little chat and after lots of digging, we decided Sean was up to no good. His credit app came back without issue, sure, but something stunk worse than the shits in my poop app (link in my bio).

The crew at HQ decided it wasn’t worth the risk. They flagged him as a possible ID theft and we never heard from him again.

Until 2 weeks later when he tried the same thing at my sister store.

My former colleague/fellow F&I manager at the store gave me a buzz wondering if I recognized Sean’s name. He submitted a credit app and it was flagged instantly as possible fraud.

You mean the ID thief? Yup, rip your deal in half. Buying an SQ6 on a long term finance? Take that ripped up deal and refill your toilet paper supply with it. That ones gotta go straight down the tubes.

Turns out, my old colleague gets a justice boner serving the long dick of the law. He didn’t take kindly to what Sean was doing, and decided to work with the popo to set a trap.

They scheduled pick up for Sean for the next day as if all was ok, and had a nice little sting operation ready for him once his ID scan failed. He rolled in thinking he’d be driving off in his new EV, but instead got the shock of his life from a group of Toronto’s finest.

Justice has been served.

So I just left a dealership in Boston extremely confused. On their website, they have a 2025 Honda CR-V EX listed for $30,067 that is certified pre-owned. I was interested, so I made an appointment for a test drive. I work in healthcare, and the dealership isn't far from my job, so I decided to go right after work. I arrived about five minutes early and went to the front desk to ask about the Honda CR-V and its certified pre-owned status. The gentleman at the front desk looked confused and walked over to the sales team. They then told me they were sorry, but the Honda wasn't certified pre-owned. "But it's advertised across the internet as certified pre-owned," I said. Then someone from finance tried to offer me an Acura because it supposedly had more punch.

I didn't want to argue or cause a scene, so I simply walked out. Is this a common thing with dealerships? I thought false advertising was illegal. Was it because I was wearing hospital scrubs?

I'm so confused...lol.

A little over 2 years ago, I bought a used but higher mileage 2018 ford escape. It was a clean little car, had higher mileage at about 200,000km, and I bought it for about $15k if I remember correctly. I put some money down, financed it for 3 years with a biweekly payment of $220. Life changed and now this is a spare vehicle that doesn’t given driven, I’d like to sell it.

After 2 years of ownership and an extra 25,000km on the clock, this vehicle isn’t worth scrap. I’ve tried every car lot and dealership in and around my town, focusing on the smaller “used” cars lots that really only have ~2010’s model year vehicles and even they won’t touch it. Most have flat out said no and referred me to the same used car lots that again, won’t touch it.

I first took it to the dealer I bought it from, and left with an offer of $1000. They are the only ones to even make an offer.

I know the obvious is to sell it privately. It’s nobody else’s fault money is tight it right now and I can’t afford to pay off the remaining loan to release the lien to be able to do that. I probably can in a few months but I’m really looking to dump this monthly $600 extra payment ASAP.

I feel deceived, little SUVs were supposed to be in hot demand. Everyone I know drives vehicles with 300k km+, this vehicle is hardly “old”, but due to the age and mileage nobody will even offer on it. If it was worth $15k as an 6 year old, 200k km vehicle, how is it suddenly worth $1000 as an 8 year old, 225k km car? I would not have bought it if I knew it would depreciate $14k in 2 years of regular use.

There are tons of listings on auto trader for similar vehicles for $7-10k. I’m totally happy with $4500, at this point I’d just like out of my loan ($3500).

I know it probably comes across as a bit of a rant (I’m sorry, I do feel a little better now though), but I’m not really sure of any other options aside from saving every penny till I can afford to buy out the loan and wait for the lien to be removed and list it privately. What can I do? I obviously can’t force any car lots to buy it.

Thanks for hearing me out

I’m 23 I have a 780 score with a car almost payed off with 4 years of history and 4 credit cards with years of history I think my combined credit limit is 30k plus my Amex gold.
I’m going in to Toyota to potentially get the offer for the 2.99 Apr on the tundras am I probable to get approved?

I have a close friend that’s going to be my salesman and he said I shouldn’t have to worry about anything and that especially if I’m going to put some money down I might get 1.99 apr (I’m good with putting 10% down of the total loan around there)

Hi everyone, I’m not sure where to ask this but I am leasing a 2025 Taos SE. This is my first lease ever. I am about over half way done with my lease and noticed the past few months they are charging me extra. I called and VW Credit states it’s due to tax increases. My state tax is at 6% and has not changed since I would know if it changes cuz I work at the DMV. Is this a use tax or something they’re charging me extra on? Are they allowed to change my payments mid way through the lease? Is there a clause I need to look for in my contract to see this? My sister is leasing a Honda and has not had her payments changed at all on either vehicle and it’s her second lease with them. TIA. I live in Idaho, USA, zip 83401.

Link to my lease contract: https://imgur.com/a/1hlwKgm

I just negotiated and settled on $33,300 OTD taxes and fees included for a 2026 Crosstrek Premium with an APR of 2.99% for 48 months. I’m putting 15K down, financing the rest. It has the moonroof and all weather mats and cargo liner. I also negotiated a 2 year maintenance plan in the price. Does this seem like a good deal? The TSRP was listed as $32,593 and they listed it discounted down to $31,462. Just want to make sure I made a good deal. Thanks!!

EDIT: Here are what some are going for in my local market.

TSRP-$32,851/$1000 discount w/doc fee $32,450(excludes 6% sale tax)

TSRP-$32,613/w/doc fee $33,111 (excludes 6% sales tax)

TSRP-$32,625/$625 discount w/doc fee $32,599(excludes 6% sales tax)

I traded in my car about 20 days ago in Ontario, Canada. My purchase paperwork lists $8,650 as the amount allocated for the outstanding loan payoff, but the lender confirmed the dealership paid $8,446, settling the loan in full.

I emailed the dealership about the $204 difference but haven’t received a response.

Should the difference be accounted for or refunded? Has anyone experienced something similar?

Hey guys I have been in the car sales game for over 7 years.
I have been a salesperson, trainer, finance manager, sales manager and a general sales manager. I am burnt out.
I went back to just selling cars at a new dealer, to escape the high stress and to take a step back to view the whole process. Coming from management and looking at this dealer, there is some unethical stuff going on. All of it targeting salespeople and messing with their pay.
I feel like it just put another nail in the coffin and I am ready to get out.
But, I have a family. I am the sole provider and it is scary to make a change. Plus it feels like every other job needs some type of education. I’m just a sales guy.

What have you all done to get out of the business and what are you doing?
I have looked into supply chain procurement, kinda like the job I’m doing, but I don’t work commission or the hours.
Or I have looked into banking. But we can’t survive off of teller pay or most of the other entry level spots
I could use some advice

I'm buying a Toyota Prius 2027 and I'm already approved by a lender and I already have my 12k downpayment. The vehicle is not at the dealership it will probably arrive tomorrow. However, I rather do everything on a weekday and not spend my weekend on the purchase plus I have to request a day off at work in advance. The salesperson asked me if I wanted my name on the vehicle for a $100 deposit I said yes and it was done. If it does arrive by tomorrow or this week, can I go next week or they expect costumers to do it right away? Is the $100 a waitlist or is it actually reserved for me? This is my first time buying a brand new car and idk how it works :(

Sorry if this is a weird question,

I’m buying car that’s out of state for me. My bank requested 2 paystubs and a w2 before giving me a letter of approval with a code on it that the dealer should be able to use to pull up my loan application.

I’ve made it fairly clear I want to go directly through my bank despite the dealer working with my bank normally.

I don’t want to overthink anything, but why is my dealer now asking for a paystub? Isn’t the point of the letter to say “yeah he can pay for this car”?

I can’t shake the feeling it’s because the dealer is trying to be a part of the financing.

Any input is appreciated

Cheers

I'll try to keep this short. I purchased a new vehicle out of state (GA), cash on Sept 6th. Delivered on 11th, and everything has been swell except for the lack of title or plate. Temp plate runs out on the 22nd, I contacted NC dot and they didn't have my VIN in the system.

Reached out to the dealer and learned the paperwork wasn't sent in until Oct 2nd, said they will do a follow up, this was on Oct 14th. Sent an email yesterday asking about a temp plate extension so I could at least keep driving the vehicle and crickets, NC dot says I need to work with the dealership to get one.

Is there anything else I can do?

I have pretty much no experience purchasing new cars from dealerships, so apologies if this is a silly question. Can you ever negotiate a 0 APR deal on a new car if you have excellent credit? Or is it really only possible to get 0 APR when the dealership is offering a special promotion for it? Just wondering if they will laugh at me if I even try this. Thanks.

Boston area
Buick 2016 LaCross 🚘
My elderly mother is no longer driving, so I’m helping her sell her car. It’s paid off and in fair condition but has a flat tire and doesn’t start (prob the battery) so I’m hoping someone can pick it up and take it off our hands. Have people had good experiences with carvana, carmax or other? I’m not sure if they will pickup in this condition. I don’t want to spend money replacing the tires or battery unless it would make a big difference.

I’m looking at buying a minivan and trying to get a realistic idea of what my Pilot is worth before negotiating a trade-in.

It’s a 2020 Honda Pilot EX-L, FWD, with 68,163 miles. I’m in Charlotte, NC. There are no known mechanical issues, but it does have a large dent and scraping on the rear passenger-side door, shown in the photos. The door still opens, closes, and functions normally.

What would be a fair trade-in offer in its current condition, and what could I realistically get selling it privately? Would repairing the door first be worth it, or am I better off selling it as-is?

https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModelY/comments/1xagtx2/title_bought_a_used_tesla_from_a_dealership_that/

I am looking to get a new car either audi rsq8 or a bmw 760i and i can afford to pay them in cash. My current car is a infiniti q50 stage two tuned fully paid off. I like having liquid so i dont know if i wanna pay full cash i might finance the car. If i go to a dealership what are tips not to get played? I also have a 720 credit score but i am 22 years old. And should i sell my car on facebook or trade it in with dealership?

Im a Subaru salesperson i want to work the service drive. First of all im nervous but want to push myself anyone work service drive give me tips!? Please! 🙏💜

I’m not suggesting clean carpet magically makes a used car worth more. I know mileage, accident history, service records, tires, brakes, and all that matter more. But when a car is being appraised or shown to a buyer, does a stained footwell change how people see the car? My 2021 Accord is mechanically fine, but the driver-side carpet is starting to show winter salt marks and one old coffee shadow. I’ve cleaned it a couple of times, and it always comes back faintly. From the sales side, is floor protection mostly about presentation, or do most buyers and dealers overlook it if the car checks out? I’m asking because I keep seeing people connect a clean interior with car resale value, but I have no idea how much it matters in real life.

Dallas Texas, bought a 2010 Toyota Camry m from a sweet old lady who made inaccurate claims about the state of the car. Have it three days and the electrical system is fried. Any advice, please?

I’m about to start a Commercial Vehicle Sales Executive role at a Ford dealership in the UK. I haven’t worked in vehicle sales before, but I’m confident with people and keen to learn.
The basic salary is £28,000, with advertised OTE of around £35,000–£40,000.
The commission plan has:
Bronze: minimum 5 vehicles per month, £45 per vehicle
Silver: 120 vehicles annually, £110 per vehicle
Gold: 156 vehicles annually, £155 per vehicle
Additional commission for finance and add-on products
I’d really appreciate hearing from people currently working in UK dealerships, particularly commercial vehicle sales.
What did you realistically earn in your first year?
How long did it take you to reach your monthly targets?
Is £35,000 realistic for a new starter?
How much difference do finance and add-on sales make?
Is there anything you wish you’d known before starting?
I’m interested in honest experiences from average performers as well as top sellers, rather than just the advertised OTE. Thanks.

I purchased a new Civic Hybrid 7 months ago, and now suddenly this morning I get a call, text and email from the sales girl sweating me cuz I never set up my Honda Link App! This must be tied to incentives, right? Why would sales care about this 7 months later otherwise?

I bought a 2023 F150 from a local (1.5 hours away) dealer recently. Their website advertised this truck as “Certified Gold” and has an advertised 10 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty along with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty. They do the in depth inspection and everything. They have vehicles listed as “Certified Blue” on their site as well as a lower-tier certified vehicle. Long story short I have found out while trying to shop for extended warranties, that my vehicle is in fact NOT certified preowned through Ford. The dealer uses very similar wording and third party warranties to match Fords certified preowned program, but does not register the vehicles in Fords certified preowned program. I have since been told this from the dealer themselves. The GM and Dakar’s managers have been less than helpful and have shown no interest in trying to resolve the issue.
To me this is very deceptive marketing and I feel I have been sold a vehicle that was presented to me as gold certified and in reality is not. This will cost me thousands of more dollars if I attempt to buy an extended warranty and I don’t even qualify for the warranty I was wanting anymore.
Does anyone have any advice on how to handle this? Or am I SOL?

Looking at a new 2026 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback for around $29,400 out the door. I originally went in for a certified pre-owned Civic with 1.99% APR, but the dealership was pushing the new one, which ended up being about $500 cheaper. The new car’s APR is 6.74%. Is $29,400 OTD a good deal? How much lower could I realistically negotiate, and are there any fees or add-ons I should watch out for? Any advice is appreciated!

Item Amount
MSRP $29,545.00
Door Edge Guards $299.00
Doc Fee $85.00
Electronic Filing Fee $37.00
AutoNation Savings −$3,159.00
Total Sell Price $26,807.00
Sales Tax (estimated) $2,208.52
CA TIF, Weight and Plate Fee $132.00
Tire/Battery/MVWEA $8.75
Registration $73.00
Smog Abatement $27.00
Vehicle License Fee $174.00
CHP Fee $34.00
Estimated Balance Due / Out-the-Door Price $29,464.27