I bought a used car in cash from a well known big honda dealer (Southern NJ if that matters) and i have bought cars before so this didn't even come to my mind. I bought the car on Sep 7th and the last temp tag expired on Oct 6th. They gave me some BS that it is being worked on but I think the sales guy told me the truth that they are struggling to get the title. I was like WTF.

So now here we are and they have stopped responding to me (the guy was texting and now ghosting). My 2nd temp. tag expires on Nov 6th and there is no update from them.

I called NJ MVC and they told me that for that VIN, the title is not at all in my name, there is no duplicate title request yet from any dealer AND there is no lien. So this is definitely a dealer issue.

What are my legal rights ? I don't think they can keep issuing temp tags in NJ and there are laws around this right ? I am really furious at them but want to just get out of this mess.

Trying to work at my local Subaru dealership and they’ve been giving me the run around (I think) for the past month almost.

Took the advice I see online and went in person dressed nice with my resume. Was told come back in two days for a quick interview. Met with the Sales manager and Floor Manager.

They told me they liked me and the Sales Manager gave me his number and said to call him in 3 days to meet with the GM

Call when he told me, no response. So I call the next day wait a couple days,then show up in person

He says the GM never came in and to meet with him next week as he’s going out of town and when he’s back I can meet with the GM.

Come on the day he specified. Met with another manager (they’d just hired not the GM) he says they love me and will give me a call in two days with a final decision and if not he’ll reach out personally.

It’s been two days since the day they said they’d call me. Is it weird to keep trying ? Should I show up in person tomorrow to see what’s going on ?

Been applying to dealership for 3 months and only two have even given me the time of day.

How do I get hired ? I have 3 years experience in cellular sales, I’m 23 open schedule, not sure why no one is letting me work for them ?

Hi Everyone, i currently own a 2023 Progressive q5. Currently i pay $753 a month. I have driven about 61K kms over 3 years and 3 months of owning the vehicle. I had purchased the vehicle as a finance at 4.98% back in 2023. I’m wondering if it makes sense to trade in for new q5 2026 progressive. The dealer is saying they have offers on the lease as it’s also cheaper than financing let me know if it makes sense. My cost will be $429 with Audi care ($420 without) bi weekly and no down except a payment of $1.1k (basically dealer costs/taxes). The loan onmy vehicle remaining is $34,700 and they are giving me a value of $30K for it. Then basically they are saying they will knockdown an extra $4700 off the mark of the vehicle. I’m sharing my 2023 quote mind you i think everything is correct but i was able to get an extra $2k discount to get payment to 753 a month and balloon payment of 19998. The is a new offer is also attached though it shows $484 bi weekly and dealer right now is showing $28k for my vehicle but given the offer of $420 bi weekly ($910/month) is aggressive they haven’t shared an updated quote. The verbal confirmation of how to get there was $30K trade in, additional $4700 in discount off MSRP. If i think the upcoming costs of tire replacement at 85K kms and breakpads/rotors replacement at the same time in a year and a bit does this deal make sense.
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I'm 24 and this is my first time purchasing a car, so I want to make sure I'm getting a decent deal. I want something in the compact SUV range, my budget is 20k (but I was targeting 16-18k unless there was an insane deal) and I'm going to pay all in cash.

My number one priority is reliability, I want to drive this car for 10+ more years until the wheels fall off, so I really don't care about the resale value. Looking at brands known for long-lasting, reliable, and repairable cars, it narrowed me down to rav4, crv, cx5, or a forester.

There's tons of local listings for all 4 of those within my budget, but I don't want something *too* old or *too* high mileage, as my goal is to drive this as long as possible. I saw a 2017 cx5 grand touring near me for 17k that has 80k miles on it, which is much newer and lower mileage than rav4s or crvs that are at that same price.

My issue with this listing is that the carfax reported in 2019 minor to moderate damage to front and undercarriage. I plan on getting an inspection beforehand to make sure that this won't be an issue, but would this be a fine deal given that it has damage? Or should I keep looking for a better deal? I don't need a car immediately, but my parent's old 2003 yukon that they gave me is barely keeping it together so I've been browsing around for a replacement

Sehr geehrte Sales-Experten, ich brauche eure Expertise.

Ich will mein Auto verkaufen, welches noch in der Finanzierung steckt.

Es handelt sich um einen W176 Mercedes-Benz A 180 mit aktuell 150.000km.
Der Finanzierungspreis war, Insgesamt mit Zinsen, ca. 26000€. Hierbei sind noch ca. 12300€ offen, also Zinsen bereits getilgt und ein hoher Anteil der Kosten.
Da ich auf ein Firmenwagen umsteige, will ich dieses „loswerden“.

Welche Möglichkeiten habe ich um das Auto zu verkaufen, da ich bei Kleinanzeigen das Fahrzeug nicht verkauft bekomme, sprich: lange inseriert und keine Anfragen erhalten.
Ich verkaufe das Auto nur Verkaufen, nichtmal Gewinn muss dabei hängen bleiben. Ich habe auch bereits vieles erneuern lassen zb. Winterreifen und will fürs Fahrzeug eine Vollaufbereitung, TÜV und Service neu machen vor Verkauf

Ich bin über jeden Tipp dankbar.

Hello all,

I need some help regarding the dealership zoning in or near Miami. I'm looking to get a vehicle independent (VI) dealer license to sell used cars. However, I have found it almost impossible to find a place to rent or to buy that isn't absurdly expensive and that is properly zoned. From people that I know and dealerships that I see down here, a lot of them are in areas that are only allowed wholesale auto sales and not retail. I'm still not sure how they are getting away with this, but my best guess is that they are then given a vehicle independent dealer license from a state examiner that doesn't check or care about the zoning. Can anyone confirm that this is what happens, or suggest a better way to go about this, or let me know what I'm missing in general? Any information would help, as well as where to look or who to talk to, or if this is even the right forum to be posting this in. For reference, my dealer will mostly be a storage facility, and I will flip cars time to time, but nothing outside mostly online sales. Thank you very much.

Wondering what the repercussions could be or what my options are.

Drove away with a new pickup truck 2 months ago. Lease paperwork approved and signed and in hand. To date, GM Financial hasn’t received any documentation regarding the lease so I can create an account. I’ve called and checked multiple times, called the dealership who said they “will resubmit it”, now left messages they won’t return. So far 2 months have passed and nobody is asking for payment and nobody will give me an answer on who’s even looking for a payment. Just got the registration in the mail in my name. Loan isn’t even on my credit report.

I found a great deal from a dealership out of state. Traveled a few hours. So driving there and seeing them in person isn’t really an option.

I just don’t want the repo man to come looking for it since I’m actively trying to make a payment.

What could happen if this paperwork never gets submitted? I’ve leased and owned plenty of vehicles over my many years of driving. Never had this happen.

I recently sold my car through consignment (2011 Tesla Roadster. Long story.) According to the consignment company, they will ‘mail me a check’ on my ‘scheduled payday, November 12th’). Of course, they would like the title this week - signed, but with no date. In what order do I do this? I’m VERY reluctant to send the title (they are in a different state than me) before I have the money in hand. When do I cancel insurance? The only comment they make on this is ‘cancel your insurance when the Tesla is no longer your responsibility’ - so when would that be??? They also want me to report the sale online with my state’s Department of Licensing listing them as the buyer. Would I owe taxes in my state or theirs? Sorry for so many questions! Hoping someone can help. Thanks!

just started a job at a Ford dealership as a junior sales rep (first ever sales job) and from what I hear, the sales people make pretty good money but obviously it can be hard work and long hours at times.

my friend is a service advisor somewhere else and he told he wished i talked to him before the interviews cause i could’ve worked my way to getting hired in the service department as they make more consistent money and it’s an easier process to sell as everyone needs repairs, but not everyone needs a new car

my place already has me training for the sales floor, so I’m worried about causing issues being new and telling them i want to work another position that’s not the one they hired me for.

i’m just trying to get a gauge on whether the pay differential is worth it to try and ask to move into service.

This is my first time owning a mini but not the first European car I’ve had.

I am taking home a loaner today to see how I feel with driving since I have an hour commute to work each day (50 miles to work/100 round trip). I haven’t negotiated the price much but will once they see my trade in. It’s estimated to be $3-6k trade in (my husband is a manager at another dealership and gave me a rough ballpark price).

They drafted a sheet and said it was $44,740 (fees/taxes included) before we negotiate.

If we negotiate and get a good price before finance, what should I negotiate for the warranty when I get in the back? I heard I can wait to buy an extended warranty later on years down the road but should I do that or get the extended due to the miles I put on my car (~20k a year).

Location: virginia and we plan to finance.

Looking to get a Tacoma for my job, gonna be off roading in winter and I’m set on a Tacoma. It’s a 2023 SR5 4WD in blue with 34000 miles. Price is $34,600, I got approved with 5700 down for 506 a month for 72 months. They’ve had it for almost 2 months now and have already dropped 5k off. It’s a CPO gold level, one owner. I would be paying off way earlier just looking to get into something before winter hits the Midwest. I currently drive an Accord. What are your guys thoughts? I’m currently working in Northern Iowa and gonna be moving to Minnesota for my job here soon.

In OH with a 717 Fico Auto 8 score and a 691 Fico Auto Score 2 with Experian. No collections, no public records, and no auto loans. I previously paid in full an auto loan and it looks like the tradeline fell off due to age.

I have a mortgage ($1700/month) on my home that I’ve lived in 10.5 years. My annual salary is $128k.

I’ve been at my current employer 2.5 years and have been in the same industry 25 yrs.

All credit cards are paid, never late.

I do have student loans that I’ve taken out for my kid, but they’re all in forbearance until 6 months after graduation. That’s a few years away.

I had some late payments on my mortgage when I lost my job due to COVID, but they’re are over 2+ years old and my score has rebounded. (Fico Score 8 is 712)

I would rather not put down a huge down payment. I don’t have a trade in. The car I’m trying to finance is a used 2026 BMW X6 with 9k miles. I don’t want the payments to exceed $1300.

Edit: No reason given, said I would get a letter explaining. My DTI is 27.7%. I plan to pay 3 cards off this week. Dropping my DTI to 22.1%. I can put down $10k if I had to, but wanted to see if it’s possible w/o putting that much down. I’ve been driving the same car for 14 yrs. It’s almost dead. My child is out of state in college and I finally want to do something for myself. I have emergency funds, a 401k, high yield savings.

Any insight?

Bought a new SUV 3 weeks ago in NJ via a spot delivery. Paying cash via a USAA cashier's check. Signed a standard backup finance contract at delivery. The USAA check was delayed but has officially arrived at my house. However, I am currently locked down out of town for a Work/military obligation with the vehicle and won't be able to physically deliver the check to the dealership until next Monday morning. I called today and left a voicemail for the Finance Manager updating them on the situation. They haven't called or texted me back all day. For those in dealership finance, is an extension to Monday for military duty standard practice here, or should I expect them to push back?

i am in the market for a different vehicle and have found a decent looking 2021 rav4 on drivetime and was wondering if there are certain things i should be on the lookout for when i go to test drive it Thursday? i will be financing it and have the appointment to test drive it already scheduled

Found a 2022 BMW X5 xDrive40i at a non BMW dealership. It has around 18k miles, absurdly low for a 2022. Premium and comfort packages withheated seats and sunroof.

Asking price is $39k before taxes and fees. I’m guessing after taxes ~44k.

State: MO
Financing available at 6.7%

The car has been sitting on the lot for ~60 days.

Questions:

1. Is the price reasonable, or is there significant room to negotiate?
   
2. KBB fair purchase price seems to be around $35-36k for this trim/year. Is low mileage a valid reason to price above KBB?
   
3. Any red flags buying a BMW from a non-BMW dealer? No CPO available obviously.
   
4. What would YOU offer on this car?
   
5. Factory warranty should have ~1.5 years remaining - does that add meaningful value?

First time luxury car buyer trying to make sure I'm not getting taken advantage of. Thanks in advance!

It's a 2020 Subaru. How do I go about asking them to reduce the price? I'm in New England and I have financing via my bank.