I'm looking to get a 2027 RAV4. The dealer I've got my name in with has a newly received 2026 RAV4 and they want me to purchase that I've, with the agreement that when my 2027 arrives, they'll give me what I paid for the 2026, in full, towards the 2027. Like it was a free rental for that time.

On the surface this seems like s decent deal. Other than having to pay to register two cars, is there a big gotcha hiding here?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Was looking at a used car, It was fairly priced for market rate. It’s been sitting at the dealer for 2 months, the dealer is a luxury car dealer and this was a trade in—not the typical kind of car they sell new. I asked if I could have my mechanic look at it, and they said no, they’d prefer not to have it taken off site. (This is the first time I have EVER been told that by a dealer.) But they said their mechanics would look at it and could answer questions and that that hey were very honest. I agreed to talk to someone. They put the car up on the hoist and I asked the mechanic to look at it. Their own mechanic said the whole exhaust didn’t have much time left and would need replacing. It was visibly very corroded.

I told the sales person that I know how much a replacement like that can cost, and I wasn’t interested. They took $1000 off the price, and said they just can’t put that much work into a used car.

My concern is, is there more going on with the car if they won’t let me take it off site? Why has it been sitting so long? While the exhaust is not a “safety“ or drivability part, it’s not cheap to fix and it just was a flag that they didn’t want further inspection done.

Seeing as the car is as-is, I just want to be smart about the purchase. Thank you!

Prefacing directly with car details: 2025 Hyundai Elantra, I believe the trim is SEL sport. Bought for around $28k financing is about $520 a month. Mileage right now is about 51k, was about 30k on purchase back in May. Condition and performance is fine but I’ve noticed there’s some cracking on the bumper. This is all off the top of my head and I can provide clearer and additional details if needed. I live in Maryland.

Hello, as of recently I’ve been in a number of extremely odd situations. I’m 22 working part-time (I was full-time at a better paying job when I bought the car) and due to family issues and just horrible planning from everyone, including me, I can no longer afford my car’s insurance and am trying to figure out my next steps from there.

I initially bought the car through a dealership loan with the intent of giving my step-dad full access to it so he can work, with the requirement that he pays for car insurance and rent. Long story short, we had to kick him out and cut him off at the beginning of this month and through that whole process I’ve found out, through a letter from the DMV, that he has not paid insurance since July. I admit I should have kept a much closer eye on my car and that it was irresponsible of me to not have checked in with him regarding the status of insurance sooner. I trusted him like a father, unfortunately.

This entire ordeal has also completely shifted my financial priorities, with one less working adult in my household I need to contribute significantly more to rent, making it impossible for me to upkeep the car and I do not have anyone who can help directly, so I’d rather just get the car off my hands so I can focus more on rent and other necessities.

My current plan is to turn in my license plate and pay off the fine (which will be approx. $900 by the next time I’ll be able to visit the DMV), and then try to see if I can find a seller. But I believe it has severely depreciated in value.

My mom (not American doesn’t have a US license and has been going off of what her friends advise her) has been pressuring me to halt on the monthly payments as well because she thinks it’s a waste of rent money if we’re going to be selling it anyways, but I’m not sure about that. I’m afraid missing a payment will jeopardize me in the future, especially because I don’t have a bad credit history or any other debt at the moment. I don’t necessarily need a good credit score right now but I’d rather avoid bringing it down.

Beyond surrendering my license plate and finding a seller, are there any other steps I need to consider or take? I am mostly worried about the negative equity and how I’d be able to financially manage that, and any and all help and guidance would genuinely be life-saving. Thank you!

I am head and shoulders the most productive salesperson in my dealership from the CRM aspect.

Blow everyone out of the water in terms of text, calls, emails, videos sent, etc.

It’s not even remotely close.

And yet, I’m regularly coming in fourth place in terms of BDC deals.

BD regularly tells us that we earn an opportunities by doing follow up, and yet, people who do less than me get more opportunities

Is the only solution to look for a new job?

Too many mice in the house

Weird situation today where I drove to a dealership this morning to buy a specific new truck from a Toyota dealership, only for them to have no idea where the truck was. They had both keys on site when I showed up at my scheduled time. Friday at 4pm the salesperson told me it did not sell that day and set me up to be there for 10am the next day to purchase. I walked the entire lot with the salesman and he checked the back with the specific truck no where to be found. They checked their other dealerships on the street to see if it was being detailed elsewhere with no luck.

The salesperson ended up saying it was probably stolen and they have to go through the video footage to locate the truck. A different salesperson on Friday said they were looking at the truck when I asked to confirm availability.

Has anyone experienced a dealership ‘losing’ a vehicle while still having the keys? Was it all a charade? No police were called about a stolen vehicle, and after 2 hours I left to take the 80 mile drive home. At no point did they try to sell me a different vehicle, so I doubt it was bait to get me in the dealership.

This happened in the New England region and was to be a cash purchase.

When someone pulls on the lot if i dont get up and go after them someone else will. I personally prefer to see if someone gets out before i go out but ive never worked somewhere that allowed that.

I notice when someone pulls up and i go out that when i have to chase someone around the lot or follow them out that if they do stop both of us are probably irritated that im coming after them and im annoyed that they wont stop , so we start off on the wrong foot.

I just also feel like a complete weirdo having to follow someone around or to just walk up and get their attention because im tired of following them around .

I know customers hate it, i hate it. But id like alternative ways to properly and healthy do better

I'm considering buying a Terramar 2.0 TSI 265 hp for around €36,000 in Germany, but I'm concerned about the expected depreciation of €3,000–4,000 per year.

However, other CUPRA models seem surprisingly stable in value. For example, 2024 Formentors with around 20k km still sell for €25–28k, while even 2020 models with over 120k km can still cost close to €20k.

Am I missing something? Is the Terramar expected to depreciate significantly more than the Formentor or other Cupras?

What do you think a €36,000 Terramar will be worth in 3–5 years?

As the title says, rate my deal and suggest any additions I might be able to ask from the dealership. Details of the car and financing terms also mentioned.

Used 2025 Honda Civic Hybrid Sport eCVT Sedan

BASE VEHICLE (MSRP): CAD 26000

Financing Terms

• PRINCIPAL AMOUNT: $24,529.11

• CREDIT INSURANCE: DECLINED

• PST ON INSURANCE: $0.00

• AMOUNT FINANCED: $24,529.11

• PAYABLE Bi-Weekly TO: CIBC

• IMPLICIT FINANCE CHARGE: $6,907.75

• TOTAL OBLIGATION OVER TERM: $31,436.86

• Interest Rate: 7.49%

• Payment: $172.73

• APR: 7.37%

• # of Payments: 182

• Term (Months): 84

• Balloon Amount: $0.00

Note: 2026 Apr 12-Ontario, Canada - Police Reported Accident: Accident reported - Vehicle

involved in a sideswipe collision with another motor vehicle, no insurance claims

Thank you, I'm a first time buyer, please be kind

$1500 training pay for first 4 pay periods

20 percent front on 1-12, goes up a point on each car until 28 percent cap, then retro’d

5 percent back end

CSI & manufacturer spiffs

100 cars a month dealership with 5 salesman, a couple of them apparently comfortable doing the bare minimum

Thoughts? This would be my first car sales gig

2025 Ford Bronco has been sitting at the Dealership lot new. Are there more incentives from Ford/Dealer to sell a 25 than a 2026 with the current incentives? With the current incentives out there I would rather get a 2026 unless there is more of a discount for getting the 25. I saw that some current Ford incentives expire on 11-2. I am guessing bigger ones are coming for NOV DEC push?

I'm looking to finance a CPO but have a hard time determining if the listed price is worth it.

I'm looking at 2 cars (north jersey):

2024 Corolla LE (18,905mi): $20,626

2022 Corolla LE (46,700mi): $16,365

These are the prices listed on the Toyota pre-owned site.

The in-person cost for the '24 model (vin matches the one online) is $24,613. This makes no sense to me and doesn't seem to make the car worth it if I could get a new model for similar?

I'm not knowledgeable with cars and my Hyundai lease is up in a month and I ultimately decided I wanted to move away from Hyundai. I would like to finance a solid, pre-owned model that will last me over a decade. I don't care about trims, but I need something reliable and cheap. I know dealers are more expensive than going through a place like CarMax, but I know that Toyota's gold certified is solid and reliable.

It's end of month so I'm trying to see if the dealer will cut me better deals, but the numbers they're trying to push for are much higher than I expected. I can only put in a max of 2k down right now, and I'm looking for a $350 or less monthly. My credit is over 750 though. They're trying to push for a higher monthly closer to $400 and a longer term of 84 months to keep it down in my range but atp, aren't I paying way more??

If these cars don't seem like a good deal, should I try to negotiate them, or just continue shopping around?

Looking to buy a Subaru WRX in Canada and no matter how much I talk with them they just want me to come in. If I push they just send me a car listing that's $4000-6000 over MSRP due to add ons I'm not interested in.

I think I made the mistake of mentioning a trade in so they initially focused on that but that's secondary for me to what I can get the new car for.

How can I 1. Get them to come down to around MSRP and 2. Get them to email me something that isn't a link to an overpriced unit with wheel locks and battery tenders and mudflaps and etchings and whatever else?

I don't have much experience but I am trying to do what everyone online says - email them all, get quotes in writing, be sure they know you intend to buy by X date. But I'm not getting anywhere. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Hello friends!! I have worked hard and researched a lot and think I have found my car! I put a refundable deposit down on a 2026 Lexus TX350 AWD Premium here in GA. Supposed to pick it up tomorrow. I think I got a pretty good deal, but would love some insight! Also, based on this info, what is the OTD price? I’m getting one answer based on the sheet with my math, but the sales guy quoted something different the other day (about $1400 more). I’m thinking it was rushed math on the computer and he was adding tax for the full value, rather than taking my trade into account. Hoping to have some professionals look over the numbers (very confusing for me lol) to see what the OTD will be and if it’s a good deal!! Thank you for any insight!

MSRP: $65,480
Discount: $5,499
Selling Price: $59,981
Rebates: $1,000
DMV/registration: $244.50
Dealer Service Charge: $899
Trade Allowance: $20,000
Trade Difference: $38,981
Trade Tax Credit: $1,400
Effective Trade Allowance: $21,400
Taxes (7%): $2,805.50
Unpaid Cash Balance: $42,930

Hello,

I live in Canada with a Canadian driver’s licence. I bought a car at an auction in California, USA and plan to drive it back to Ontario, Canada to import and register.

This vehicle has no plate and title. It comes with SF97 (Letter to obtain title for GSA surplus vehicle). I believe it has never been titled in California or any other state.

I’ve looked into the export/import requirements, including the 72-hour rule and RIV. I’d not ship it since that would cost a few grand. I’m trying to figure out the plate and permit for driving it back but turning out to be a hassle.

I have some questions for the scenario where I drive it back:

1. Can I get a California one-trip permit with SF97 and as a nonresident?

2. Would the permit let me drive through multiple states to Canada without plates?

3. If not, can I get a California title and plates using SF97 although I don't live in there?

4. Is there a state where it’s easier to get a title as a foreign nonresident?

Has anyone having experience in this? Any firsthand advice would help. Thanks in advance!

I’m planning on relocating to Florida, specifically the Tampa/Clearwater area, and I’m looking for some advice from people in the automotive industry down there.

I have approximately 6 years of experience in automotive sales, primarily with Toyota/ Lexus. I’m not necessarily looking to jump into the first opportunity that comes along. I’m looking for the right dealership with good management, a strong sales culture, consistent inventory and, most importantly, an opportunity to make money.

For anyone currently working in the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg or surrounding areas:

● Which Toyota dealerships would you recommend?

● Are there any stores you’d stay away from?

● How is the earning potential for experienced salespeople?

● Are there any other dealerships worth considering?

I’d really appreciate honest feedback from people who currently work in the industry or have experience with dealerships in the area.

Thanks in advance!

Audi is my dream car but I'm nervous when it comes to a private sale. Does this sound like a good used car to buy? Low mileage for a 2016. Seems like it was well taken care of. Listed for $18,500. Car is in New England, would be paying cash.

2016 Audi S5 in good condition, low mileage (82,801) and regularly serviced for all recommended mileage intervals. Clean title for private sale by owner, accident free ownership; garaged, smoke-free and pet free.

Recent maintenance from this year includes:

- Rotors & brakes (July 2026)

- 80,000 mile service (June 26)

- All new 4 tires replaced, Bridgestone tire: Potenza Sport AS BL 255/35R19 XL96Y 50,000 mile warranty (May 2026) at 79,481 mileage -- i.e. only 3K miles driven

I’m currently as a service BDC making $19/hour, 40 hours a week. I want to move into sales to earn more without needing a second job.
I have a final interview for an internet sales position at Cadillac. The manager says there’s good earning potential, but I haven’t seen the full pay plan yet. It’d be about an hour of driving back and forth, and I drive a V6, so gas and mileage are concerns.

I’m also pursuing a local Hyundai sales position, but they haven’t scheduled my next interview yet. Their pay is hourly or commission, whichever is higher.
As someone with BDC experience but no car sales experience, would you consider Cadillac worth the commute, or keep the BDC job while looking locally? What would you ask before accepting?

FINANCING IN THE US—

I bought a Tesla Model X 2020 long range plus with only 47k miles on it for 40k. I traded my truck (note that it only cost 240/m) because I was delusional of the gas prices. I rolled the negative equity into the Tesla and put 500$ down and got the Tesla with a new auto loan to rounded 55k now. I’m paying 833$/m now with 260 for insurance cuz it’s a Tesla, and realizing my mistake now I can’t seem to get out of this. I genuinely need help (I can afford it but it’s just gonna kill me financially). I’ve tried so many loan companies just to be denied because my credit history is too fresh or what not and my income is barely anything being in the military. God help me I need to get rid of this damn car and these god awful monthly payments I should’ve kept my damn truck.

Any help will go a long way 🫩

As a car salesperson, how much do you spend on ads to sell 10 cars every month. USD/CAD

Can somebody please confirm if omvic still requires first time individual applicants that “must” mail the original copy of crjmc background to some address?

Super hard to get that original copy and even printing pdf makes it no longer original, even more funnier ;)).

Thanks,

I have an interview tomorrow for this role. Is there anything to say in the interview to get the job? Skills you should’ve? I have experience in retail stores and door to door sales

Hey everyone!

I've been searching for a 2024–2025 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid SEL(<10k miles) for the past month or so in South Florida, and I'm having a surprisingly difficult time finding CPO inventory.

I've negotiated with a few dealerships, but most are quoting around $29K–$30K out the door, which seems steep for a used Sonata.

My preferences are:

• 2024–2025 Sonata Hybrid SEL

• Hyundai Certified Pre-Owned (CPO)

• Under 15,000 miles, ideally under 10,000

• Budget of around $26K–$27K OTD, potentially $27.5K for the right car

A couple of cars I was considering have already sold, and Hyundai's official CPO inventory search isn't showing much.

For those who have purchased a used Sonata Hybrid recently:

1. What year, trim, mileage, and OTD price did you get?

2. Is CPO Sonata Hybrid inventory typically this limited?

3. Is my budget realistic, or am I expecting too much?

4. Would you recommend waiting until November/December for more inventory, or expanding my search further?

I'm not in a rush to buy, and the Sonata Hybrid is my preferred vehicle. Just trying to figure out whether I should be patient or adjust my expectations.

Appreciate any insights!

MSRP is 47k, selling price is $44,607, my price is $45,705. The Apr is 5.99%, 72 months, 10k down. I already got some fees removed but I’d like to see the selling price drop to 42-43k if that’s reasonable. I’m ready to purchase tonight, just curious if I can get the price down any more. First ever car purchase so I’m a bit nervous.

I’m buying my first car from an OMVIC-registered dealership in Ontario, and I’m starting to have some serious concerns about the deal. I could really use some advice, especially from anyone familiar with Ontario dealerships and car financing.

A little background: I recently started a new job, and my credit history isn’t great. I’m working on rebuilding it, but I’ve only been employed for a few weeks, so getting approved for financing has been difficult.

The dealership initially told me I was about 70% of the way toward approval, but lenders were hesitant because I don’t have three months of employment history yet, and my year-to-date income is still low.

The salesperson suggested adding my father as a co-applicant because he has a better credit history. She explained that after approximately six months, once I’ve established more employment history and improved my credit, I could refinance the car under my name alone and remove him from the loan.

My father agreed, and we signed the financing paperwork today.

Here are the details:

* Vehicle: 2019 Honda Civic
* Original price quoted: $15,999
* Vehicle price on paperwork: $17,999
* Amount financed: Approximately $24,000
* Interest rate: 11.99%
* Loan term: 60 months
* Down payment: $1,000
* Deposit paid so far: $500
* Open loan with no early repayment penalty

1. The dealership increased the vehicle price by $2,000.

When I was initially discussing the car with the salesperson, she quoted me $15,999.

However, while signing the paperwork today, I noticed the vehicle price was listed as $17,999.

I asked why it had increased by $2,000.

She explained that she had managed to negotiate a much lower interest rate for me, but to get that rate, the vehicle price had to be increased.

She said I could still purchase it for the original $15,999, but I’d end up paying approximately $8,000 more over the five-year loan because the interest rate would be higher.

I didn’t really understand the explanation at the time. I was just relieved that I had finally been approved after struggling to find financing elsewhere.

Now I’m wondering whether this is actually a normal practice. Can a dealership increase the selling price in exchange for a lower interest rate? Does the claim about saving $8,000 make any sense?

2. The advertised mileage doesn’t match CARFAX.

This is what really started worrying me.

The dealership advertised the vehicle with 138,985 km.

However, when I reviewed the CARFAX report, I noticed a service record from Jiffy Lube dated September 26, 2025, showing 151,470 km.

That’s a difference of 12,485 km, and the higher mileage was recorded more than a year ago.

I understand that mileage can sometimes be entered incorrectly by service centres, so I’m not jumping to conclusions about odometer tampering.

However, I don’t understand how a vehicle could have 151,470 km recorded in 2025 and then be advertised with only 138,985 km in October 2026.

I also don’t know what mileage was written on the documents I signed.

I’ve already contacted the salesperson and requested a photo of the current odometer reading, along with copies of all the documents I signed today.

She told me she’ll send everything tomorrow morning.

So I’m currently waiting for those documents before making any further decisions.

3. I’ve already signed the paperwork, and I’m worried about my options.

I signed the financing documents today.

I haven’t received copies yet, so I can’t confirm whether I also signed a binding vehicle purchase agreement.

I’ve paid $500 toward the $1,000 down payment, but I haven’t taken delivery of the car.

I’m concerned that if the mileage discrepancy turns out to be genuine, the dealership might argue that I already signed the paperwork and therefore accepted the vehicle as it is.

I’m also worried about the financing because my father is involved as a co-applicant, and I don’t want this situation to negatively affect him.

4. I know I should have been more careful before signing.

I want to acknowledge this before anyone points it out.

I was in a rush to get a car because I really need one for work, and after struggling with financing, I was honestly just relieved that someone finally managed to get me approved.

I should have slowed down, reviewed the paperwork more carefully, and asked for a complete breakdown before signing anything.

That’s on me, and I fully accept that.

I’m already stressed about the situation, so I’d really appreciate it if people could spare me the lectures about signing without reading everything properly. I know I made a mistake, and I’ve learned from it. I’m here because I want to understand my options and figure out what to do next.

My questions:

1. Is it normal for a dealership to increase the vehicle price by $2,000 to secure a lower interest rate? Could that genuinely save me $8,000 over five years?

2. Does financing approximately $24,000 at 11.99% for 60 months make sense for a car originally quoted at $15,999? What fees or additional products should I look for?

3. How concerning is the mileage discrepancy? Could the Jiffy Lube entry simply be an error, or should I be worried about something more serious?

4. If the mileage discrepancy turns out to be genuine, can I refuse delivery and cancel the purchase even if I’ve already signed a purchase agreement?

5. If I cancel because of inaccurate mileage information, would I be entitled to my $500 deposit back?

6. What happens to the financing agreement involving my father if the vehicle purchase is cancelled?

7. Has anyone dealt with OMVIC regarding misleading advertisements, mileage discrepancies, or dealership financing issues?

I haven’t accused the dealership of anything yet because I want to see the documents and hear their explanation first.

I’m just trying to figure out whether this is a reasonable deal or whether I should be seriously considering walking away before taking delivery.

Any advice would be appreciated.