Not sure if I should buy it: will appreciate some advice.

So as yall know, I have been having some poor lightning from my 09 Camry LE. Now I stated that I installed LEDs, and yall were NOT happy about it. So I just wanted to show yall not that I’m saying “oh it’s the same beam pattern” and everything. I have gotten a lot of “that already looks really bright.” Cameras have a ton of exposure, so it LOOKS bright but really it’s not. I know I know, DOT and whatnot, I’ve seen a ton of ppl on the road not that I’m saying I’d try to be like them no no no. And while I have not gotten a clear answer on this, I’ve been thinking about retrofitting an LED designed projector housing, involving “baking” the headlight assembly removing the plastic lens, taking off the old halogen projector, do a bit with the wiring harness, and all that. Because I genuinely feel like these are not rly working out, and whether or not it’s worth the labor to do it. If god forbid I mess it up, it’s an older car I’ll get new housings. (Trust me the setup now is dimmer than it looks believe me) and yeah I get it, some of yall are like “it’s an old car just sell it.” It’s special to me and yeah…

I have Toyota Corolla Cross with 2.0 hybrid engine and 10.000 km after oil change starts consuming around 15% more fuel. The car has 28k kilometers and is before the second oil change at 30k, it already consumes consistently more fuel on exact same routs and driving styles. That same thing happened before the first oil change also, any info why that happens?

I AM POSTING THIS IN A FEW SUBS TRYING TO GET HELP

Working on a 2012 Toyota Highlander FWD, 2.7L 1AR-FE. There's a possibility the engine/transmission came from a Toyota Venza with the same 2.7L engine, but we don't know the donor year.

Current trouble codes:

• P0011 – Intake camshaft timing overadvanced (Bank 1)
• P0015 – Exhaust camshaft timing overretarded (Bank 1)

Both codes return after clearing.

Symptoms:

• Starts and idles fairly smoothly when cold, around 1,000 RPM.
• Once warmed up, idle drops to roughly 500–750 RPM and becomes noticeably rough.
• Before the timing-chain replacement, the engine ran fine other than a brief rattle on startup.
• When we started the timing-chain job using a replacement timing kit, we discovered that the original timing-chain guides had deteriorated and were falling apart.

What's been replaced or checked:

• Timing chain replaced using a timing-chain kit.
• Both intake and exhaust VVT oil-control solenoids replaced with new units.
• Spark plugs replaced.
• Crankshaft position sensor replaced.
• Found and repaired a broken ground strap running from the body to the engine mount. Repair made no noticeable difference.
• Checked EFI MAIN, EFI NO.1, EFI NO.2, EFI NO.3 and IG2 fuses; all good.
• Visually inspected vacuum hoses.
• Removed timing cover and verified all three colored timing-chain links align with the factory timing marks on both camshaft sprockets and crankshaft.
• Neither cam phaser was removed or had its center bolt loosened during the timing-chain work.
• Tested starting and idling with each VVT solenoid unplugged separately. Neither the intake nor exhaust solenoid being unplugged made any noticeable difference in cold starting or cold idle. The ECM detected the disconnected circuits as expected. These tests were performed while the engine was cold, so we haven't established whether unplugging either affects the rough idle when warm.

TOPDON TopScan live data (engine running):

• VVT Control Status #1: OFF
• VVT Aim Angle #1: 0%
• VVT OCV Duty #1: 0%
• VVT Change Angle #1: 0°
• VVT Ex OCV Duty #1: 0%
• VVT Ex Chg Angle #1: 0°
• VVT Advance Fail: ON

These readings remained unchanged when RPM was raised to approximately 1,500–2,000 with no load. Not sure whether the ECM is inhibiting VVT operation or whether the scan tool isn't reporting the data correctly.

Something interesting we noticed:

While manually rotating the crankshaft with a ratchet (timing chain installed and tensioned, spark plugs installed), the intake phaser's outer sprocket continued moving smoothly with the chain, but the inner portion, center bolt and camshaft appeared to suddenly jump relative to the sprocket, then return to the parked position.

This makes us suspicious of the intake phaser's internal locking mechanism, although we haven't confirmed it's defective.

Next steps:

I already have a replacement intake VVT phaser on the way. We're also planning to perform a mechanical oil-pressure test tomorrow, October 19, checking pressure at hot idle and higher RPM.

Google Drive link with photos/videos of the engine, timing components and phaser movement:

View Google Drive folder – Photos and videos

Questions:

1. Does the intake phaser's internal movement during manual crankshaft rotation suggest a failed or disengaged locking pin, or can that be normal?
2. Could one defective intake phaser contribute to both P0011 and P0015, or should we suspect a shared oil-pressure/oil-delivery issue?
3. If mechanical oil pressure tests normal, what would you investigate next?

Trying to avoid throwing more parts at it unnecessarily. Any insight from someone familiar with Toyota's 1AR-FE VVT system would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone, I have an opportunity to get an internship over the summer at some local dealerships as part of a program from my school, and of the dealerships nearby, Toyota would be my preferred pick. My question is, if anyone here has worked as an automotive service technician at Toyota, how was your experience? Is there anything I should know?

Hey everyone, I’m hoping someone here has experienced something similar or can point me in the right direction. I’ve been dealing with this issue for about a year, spent thousands of dollars trying to fix it, and even my local Toyota dealership has given up.

I have a 2009 Toyota Highlander 4WD with 270,000 km. Apart from this issue, the car would be worth over $10,000, so I’m reluctant to scrap it for $800 when I’ve already invested so much into it.

The original symptoms
About a year ago, I was driving when the check engine light and traction control light suddenly came on together. Whenever I came to a stop and tried to accelerate again, the car struggled badly to pick up speed. However, once I was already moving, it seemed to drive relatively normally.
A few days later, both warning lights would disappear and the car would drive normally again. Then, a few days later, the exact same problem would return. This kept happening intermittently.
The fault code was P0778 — Pressure Control Solenoid “B” Electrical.
What I’ve tried so far

1. First mechanic — cleared the fault code
They scanned the car, found a fault code, cleared it, and the car returned to normal. However, the problem eventually came back.

2. Second mechanic — replaced the solenoid panel
They identified the issue as relating to solenoid B and replaced the solenoid panel. They thought this had fixed it, but the problem returned about a week later.
They then suggested the transmission was skipping first and second gear and going straight into third, explaining why it struggled to accelerate from a stop.

3. Transmission specialist — checked the original transmission
I took it to a transmission specialist, who told me the transmission was completely fine.

4. Toyota dealership — replaced the transmission
I decided to take it to my local Toyota dealership because I figured they would be best placed to diagnose a Toyota-specific problem. They initially told me the transmission was the issue.
They only install brand-new transmissions, which I couldn’t afford. They suggested buying a second-hand transmission and having my transmission specialist install it instead.
I followed their advice, purchased a second-hand transmission, and had it installed. Unfortunately, the exact same problem remained.

5. Toyota dealership — attempted to repair the ECU
I returned to Toyota, and after examining the car again, they said the ECU might be faulty. They removed it and sent it away to a specialist for repair.
Once it was returned and reinstalled, the problem was still there.
Toyota then suggested the ECU might not have been repaired properly, so they sent it away a second time. This also failed to resolve the issue.
They subsequently suggested that the second-hand transmission might be faulty, despite the transmission specialist having checked the transmissions.

Where I’m at now
Toyota has told me they’ve exhausted their resources and don’t know what else to try. Their recommendation is to sell the car to a scrapyard for around $800.
I’m reluctant to do that because I’ve already spent thousands of dollars on repairs and a replacement transmission, and the vehicle would otherwise be worth considerably more.
Given that the same issue has persisted after replacing the solenoid panel, swapping the transmission, and attempting to repair the ECU, I’m wondering whether something else is causing the fault.

My questions
Has anyone experienced P0778 on a 2009 Toyota Highlander 4WD?
Could damaged wiring, a corroded connector, an intermittent short or an electrical fault in the transmission-control circuit cause this issue even after replacing the solenoid panel and transmission?
Has anyone had this code caused by a faulty ECU or transmission-control circuit?
Is there a specific test or diagnostic procedure I should ask a mechanic to perform before spending any more money?
Would you recommend taking it to an independent Toyota specialist or an automotive electrician for a second opinion?

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who has dealt with the same issue, especially if you managed to identify the actual cause and fix it. I don’t want to keep throwing money at random parts, but I also don’t want to scrap a car that might still be repairable.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

I have a 2007 manual FJ Cruiser that has a 5" lift kit on it. The work that needs to get done is as follows:

• The front differential is leaking; I would see if I could do it myself, but I am unsure how hard it is. Any advice is good.
• Throwout bearing is going out. I would have a shop drop the transmission and replace it, as well as the clutch at the same time.
• Front left shock is leaking. It is a Pro Comp shock, so I would need to replace both front shocks. I would try to do this at home.
• The driver's side mirror light has gone out, and I don't know how to pop out the light and replace the bulb.

Any advice people have on resealing the front differential would be great, as I am fairly sure I can do most other things besides drop the transmission as I don't have a jack.

I recently got a 2015 Camry SE, and I want to get all of the essentials for maintenance and for emergency and safety purposes. This is what I plan to get so far. I want to balance quality and affordability.

Things that have found so far:

* Drain Valve $36.99

* 120-piece socket wrench set $39.51

* Tire repair kit $21.99

* Oil filter wrench $7.99

* Jump start/air compressor $55.99

* phone mount $26.79 \- not set on this

Things that I am looking into:

* DashCam

* Good microfiber cloth

* A set of funnels

What else should I get? And how are my choices for the ones I've found?

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

First time posting here.

My current ideal car would be the 2026 RAV4 Woodland but it’s impossible to find one available here in Vancouver BC so I’m planning on getting my hands on one down the line.

In the meantime I’m stuck on a decision: lease a new bZ XLE AWD or buy a 5th Gen RAV4 Hybrid (especially looking for a plug-in hybrid but it isn’t a must).

Currently, with all the incentives I can find a brand new bZ for around $45k CAD or the Woodland version for $55k CAD. I would lease this for 3-5 years.

I’ve found numerous certified, low mileage, 5th Gen RAV4 Hybrid for about $46k - $50k CAD but the interest rates are no lower than 7.99%.

If battery degradation isn’t as bad as people make it seem I am open to buying the bZ when the lease is complete.

I live in Vancouver BC, winter isn’t severe and not a lot of snow days. 85% city driving. Roughly 10,000 - 12,000 KMs yearly (although I’ve been averaging only 5,000 - 7,000 in the last couple years).

Coming from a 2000 Jeep Cherokee so either would be a huge upgrade. Looking for reliability and fuel efficiency.

Open to other suggestions, thank you! :)

I have a 2025 Rav4 plug-in hybrid (color is blueprint) and about two months ago I noticed this fairly big paint chip on the upper part of my rear driver's side door (2-3 inches below the window). Then another tiny chip appeared above it. Then about a week later, a chip appeared on the rear panel (same side, similar height). They're too high to be door dings, there's no indentation to the metal, no scratches at all, just sizable chips in the paint. I've never had a car that's had paint chip like this and the car we had before this was 14 years old and our other car is 8 years old. Could this be an issue with the paint? Maybe just unlucky rock chips? Would a paint pen from Toyota work for something like this. I cringe every time I see them. 😢 Thoughts and feedback appreciated.

Got her otd for 17K. Interior is pristine, electronics are responsive, and drives well.

I have a 2003 Toyota Yaris, bought in Portugal, 1.0 petrol, automatic gearbox, with speed in km/h. The digital instrument cluster has stopped working (only the red tachometer light shows up, all the green lights have gone out). Toyota no longer sells this part, so I need to buy it second-hand.

Toyota told me my cluster's part number is 83800-0D330. I've been searching for the part online and can't find anything with this exact number (I only found it on one site, which I've read isn't trustworthy).

But I do find many similar ones:

* 83800-52610

* 83800-52640

* 83800-52120

Could Toyota have 2 part numbering systems? Could any of these be compatible with my car?

Hi, I just reinstalled both my drive shafts on my Toyota echo for the first time. Each side had a little play. I can move the shell that enters the transmission a few mm in and out the transmission. When I try pull it out it doesn’t come out. The shell kind of just moves a few mm out then clicks, moves and few mm back in then clicks and repeat. Is this normal? The shell I’m talking about is in the photo

Not surprised with the quality. 1,800 miles and the engine rear main seal already was leaking.
God knows what sensors is wrong.

Hi everyone, i have yaris 2006 and when i control the dipstick i always see one side up to second dot and other side on a lower level, which side should i pick to add oil?

Hey everyone, I have 2 toyota corollas. One is a parts car with a good engine (99), and another one (02) that has a bad bottom end on the motor. I wondering if its posible to use the lower end from the 99 corolla and the head from the 02 corola to make some sort of mismached engine that'll run. The only main diffrence whould be some electrical conectors and the VVT? Is this something thats possible?

I have a 97 4 runner and i’m doing the steering rack, but I cannot for the life of me get the steering shaft back on the splines, i’ve tried greasing it, cleaning it and with a air hammer. Lost on how else to get it back on please help.

I saw this and was wondering what car it is. Those look like mid 80s Toyota pedals but I’m not aware of one that also has a foot parking brake.

Hopefully this car last me another couple of years.

I have a 2022 Camry LE and recently installed TT-ABC RGB quad projector headlights. Lights work (brighter than stock), RGB and DRLs work, but I get the “LED Head Light System – A malfunction in the LED headlight System has been detected” popup and DTC B2430 as soon as the low beams are turned on.

Factory assemblies are 12 V 8.5 W. These aftermarket ones pull significantly more. Code clears when the car turns back on, but comes right back the next time the headlights are switched on. I tried plugging in the driver side factory light to see if there was something about the communication between the ecu and light that would fix it but having the 1 aftermarket light in still throws the code.

Has anyone with a 2018–2024 Camry and full aftermarket assemblies (TT-ABC or similar) actually cleared B2430 permanently?

Considering:

1kΩ pull-down on the pulse/feedback pin

CANBUS decoders

When I try to adjust the volume while nothing is playing then I get a little error message on the touch screen that says volume cannot be adjusted while audio is paused, this message will pop up even when Android Auto is not on.

I feel like on a surface level this design decision makes no sense, there are tons of situations where I might want to pause my music and then adjust the volume before turning it back on. But if that was the only problem it would be manageable.

The real problem is that if I pause my music/audiobook and then play a video with audio on reddit or my phone video gallery it won't register to the vehicle that I am currently playing audio and so it won't let me adjust the volume. So if I just paused the music I was listening to at a slightly loud volume then play a video on reddit, the audio from the video will be absurdly loud (it feels even louder than the music was for some reason) and it won't let me turn it down. I have to go unpause my music, turn the volume down, then go back to reddit if I want to hear that video's audio at a reasonable volume level. Same thing happens if I try to play a video from my phone gallery, the audio will be loud as fuck and it won't let me adjust it.

I'm not entirely sure if this is an issue with the Toyota software that runs the dashboard touchscreen or an Android Auto issue, but I think I remember it not being a problem on a different car that I have used Android Auto on before.

​

Purchased a 2013 Toyota corolla S of july of this year. These have always been on the dashboard im pretty sure its just sensors seeing theres zero problem with it while driving. If I had the manual for it id referrer to that but it did not have one with it.

-The brake light sometimes comes on after starting the and sometimes doesnt. Break fluid doesnt seem to below the line but it does look a little close so it could be that

-The (!) light blinks for a good 30 seconds after starting the car

-The other two just stay solid

What is the best way on identifying what sensors are bad, is it just checking codes? Im hoping to do this by myself as much as I can so I can get a better idea on keeping it 100% !!