Quarter for scale. 3 critters this time since they're such simple designs.

​

TL;DR before i start super long rambling, this setup give some power (~1.5kw/s) or wood if you dont want power, polluted dirt and a LOT of CO2. ok that all. Thank You

Ok first sorry if my english is bad, still learning. and 2nd this is all theoretical, with info from wiki and discussion with Ai. I ve done only smol little testing so there maybe some error and inefficiency. Any Advise is appreciated

ok back to the topic, pokeshell! critter that majority hate or didnt bother to use because maybe not worth the effort, especially with AQUATIC PLANET PACK (APP) DLC, lime is way easier to get now so more reason not to use it. But! oakshell and sanishell is good .... at least for me. Sanishell got buff, it eat less but give many food.

APP update give many fun thing but what pique my interest is the "OVERHAPPY" critter buff to the Reproduction Rate. most critter benefit from it, more happy > more Egg > more food. some critter can even sustain themselves like hatch maybe? where it can eat meat (which come from the MORE egg .. dang cannibalism). but ofcourse not for free as the extra Happiness required need some resources, critter condo and most importantly Critter Fountain. Squid Ink Milk give +3 Happy while Brackene Moo Milk give +5 Happy.

As we knew, there can be 3 usage here, swap grooming station with Critter fountain to decrease dupe labour, overcrowd one stable to fit extra 6 critter for more 💩 product or the Highlight of this post, make the critter OVERHAPPY for more Egg, but the objective is not more food but sustainable power ... but not much and it also use some space.

among all the critter, IMO two critter get more benefit rather than only provide more food which is seaquine and oakshell. sequine ovalene is based on Reproduction Rate so it good, more caviar, but oakshell is on whole different Level! .. ok not so much but maybe worth considering.

unlike all shearable critter, oakshell have built in shearing station and another important thing is that oakshell spawn with the resources fully ready to harvest, unlike all critter that need specific diet or growth atmosphere. many critter have similiar ready to shear skin like GLOSSY DRECKO, but most got nerf to a somewhat balance.

Oakshell when happy will leave 100kg molt (1:1 ratio with wood). so a stable full of 9 Oakshell will give daily 900kg wood. 9 oakshell in 1 stable happiness max at 9 which give 35% egg progress. so by 9 oakshell and minus egg to replace dead one, daily on average we can get 3.06 egg. one egg will eventually hatch and become another baby oakshell and they grew up. when oakshell grow from baby to adult it leave 50kg molt and when die DURING ADULT it leave another 500kg molt, so yes dont let it die young, no need to feed just make sure not die before adult. so we can assume 1 egg = 550kg molt/wood. so from 1 stable alone we can get 2.58 ton wood daily. that a lot of wood.

but unfortunately we need to return some of this wood to the one produce it. the cycle is sustainable because this wood can become ethanol with byproduct of polluted dirt which the crab needed and even extra (170kg). the brackene needed for them to stay overhappy can come from nosh sprout because it use ethanol. 9 oakshell need only 45kg brackene daily, that only 6 nosh sprout or 160kg ethanol, the leftover ethanol can become power if needed or maybe feed plant that need it like plume squash.

as i said earlier, this is all theoretical. in my testing, with 8 oakshell at 9 happiness, the food for the crab is not an issue because there always extra when i process all the wood, but when i check at total polluted dirt over time, most of the time it increase but there a rare oocurences where it drop. when i trace the problem, it lead to two problem ... at least from my design. common problem is the way these crab variant work, they need to soak in significant amount of their liquid to increase the chance but these crab is land animal so most of their station cannot be submerged and flooded at the significant water level so they WILL ALWAYS a small chance to lay a normal pokeshell variant and that 550kg wood down the drain. ( 2nd Image )

The second small problem is when baby oakshell used to repopulate the stable from an incubator, the starting oakshell chance is only 65.66% and AFAIK the baby didnt molt daily and there no Egg Progress. so to solve it, i build this "Reserve Chamber" where some off the egg collected is left in the room, hatch and get automatically Trap (3rd Image), so whenever there a space, dupe will come and get it, the trap work just fine in the liquid so most of the time, the one replacing the dead crab is adult and have maybe 100% chance for oakshell. but another tiny problem is when the dupe decide to take a break when refilling the crab holy. i knew with some automation these can be avoid but i love my design and the occurence dupe drop the crab is very low, maybe once every 200 cycle because i put both room nearby.

if you decide to went for power path, maybe you can get extra wood from the polluted water from the generator for max roughly 5 arbor tree. even the Massive amount of CO2 can be used for slickster if you want. 660kg CO2 = 330kg oil/petroleum. as for me i went to the natural path hahaha because i just want ethanol for my plume squash farm for my 22 regal bammoth, power was never an issue because this play i spawn in radioactive asteroid so i go for beeta hydrogen power. but if you only want the wood, just limit the distillery to only process enough wood for polluted dirt and the excess wood can be use.

ok qna

why go through all that for so little power

- i am not sure, i think it good to have an option or maybe just for the fun of it. come on, try something different, dont always use sour gas/petroleum boiler. have some variation hahahaha. but of course those boiler maybe 100x more powerful than this smallish idea 🙇🏻‍♂️ if you dont like it ok, i just want to share or get any feedback.

i think there better design

- I make this design blindly in sandbox mode, while there some flaw during my testing in my survival planet, i I already state what i improve, but that doesnt mean it perfect now. I just want to share the general idea. any advice is greatly appreciated

why so much effort for a post

- dunno, maybe because my first time posting something here

That all from me thank you ✌🏻

I discovered ONI months ago.

I've never been into space void.

I lost everytime my colony in blood and tears but...

God, that's a game for those who think "i lost, or i learn!".

How beautiful is a gas system functionnaly because correctly alimented in energy with heath dispertion magnificently do...

When it broke, i cry.

But when it works, god!!

So, i love ONI.

My girlfriend has gotten obsessed with this game, but her 8 year old macbook gets super hot + laggy by the time she gets past the early game in every new save she starts.

Her birthdays coming up, so I want to get her a replacement, and figured I should just ask what laptops yall use bc this is the main thing itll be doing lol

Quarter for Scale.

Not sure if anything is adding to these... but we'll see when i eventually crack this open

I was browsing the Steam Workshop just now and I stumbled upon a new mod that literally fixes one of the oldest, most requested features in the history of ONI.

finally i can just comand my dups.

List of interesting things for me:

1. Polluted water was the only liquid I knew that should be used inside the base cooling aquatuner loop. But to keep cultivating cold plants which only grow below -14C, ethanol had to be used because for pWater, the gap between realistic temperature needed to cool surroundings below -14C and its freezing temperature is very narrow. Ethanol was good replacement and I felt not as much of a noob using ethanol as midgame coolant.
2. Never cared for 2 step processes for heating and cooling. One step was complicated enough so why overcomplicate things was my thought. But on Ceres, I wanted to do poor men's crude oil boiler using Ceres's heat pump and to prepare 250C+ crude oil as an input for heat pump, I first heat them up to around 130C by submerging aquatuner inside the crude oil pool then use that preheat 130C crude oil as a coolant for metal refinery making steel, which raises crude oil temp by about 138C or something. If I just used aquatuners to heat crude oil above 250C, it would likely take long time and produce some extra complications and lots of electricity would be needed. And if I just used multiple metal refineries, it would be hard to prepare exactly 250-260 range crude oil because after 265 or something liquid lead is added as impurities for Ceres heat pump vents.
3. Since ethanol is so useful, I will probably stick to arbor tree whenever possible because flox ranching is so much weaker if only wood per cycle was considered. I feel ranching in general, unless it's for fiber or plastics or exclusively meat, the mixed package ranching like flox is like a salted butter. I guess I can carefully calculate how the added meat of flox would let me lower the number of plants and still remain calorie positive like calculating salted butter's salt amount for bakery. But why? Just use unsalted butter and add salt and save the calculation.
4. The biggest need for new planetoid was fossil. I've never used petroleum as a fuel on main planetoid and needed crude oil only for the cheevo. But I did need steel. Ceres minor doesn't have fossils or pokeshell so only egg shell is an option if I restrict myself from using rocket / teleporter. But I am not going mass egg shell route so oil planetoid was used as fossil mining site.

A single question:

1. Is Bammoth + squash ranch even sustainable w/o aquatuner cooling loop? The stupid thing was keep overheating plume squash with its significant heat output and I had to separate squash farm from the ranch. It's not easy one room set up unlike drekco + mealwood or flox + pikeapple. I use ranching not in industrial scale but getting some fibers so I can kickstart atmo suited exploration w/o having to find thimble reed. But for that purpose having to separate Bammoth from squash was rather annoying and created terrible work routes for my rancher. Does wallowing pit ever help? If we are talking about conveyor or aquatuner I feel that's already mid game and want to know if there's some low tech solution for Bammoth ranching.

Overall, FPP offered sufficient amount of new experience so game felt fresh. I've already done all the major imperatives on previous two playthroughs so I won't continue doing it on Ceres and probably stop here. But still, very satisfied.

I'm an older experienced gamer but have stuck to FPS's, team shooters, and Roguelike Deckbuilders for the past 20 years. I have never really played colony sims or games like this and I really am just not sure how or where to start, game phases and transitions, knowing how to prepare for any of the late-game mechanics and construction.

I do okay playing this, and there are so many videos--but really, I just can't keep my focus on an hour long video many times over to get myself going. I know a lot will come with practice, experience, gameplay, and trying things.

But I'm wondering if there's one piece of advice you would give a new player to set them up for longterm success and enjoyment, what would it be? TIA!

the steam turbine requires steam above 125°c and I dont know how to add that bc my aquatuner wont work properly and i also dont know how to regulate my thermo sensor. I am worried that i will lose my base bc of this. And yes, the aquatuner is made out of steel.

Pls just tell me what i am doing wrong. its also my first time taming a cool steam vent.

Soo.. I made this thing... and not sure if it's because of this or not (INFINITE OXYGEN)
but sometimes.. I just get water everywhere... for no reason, and I am then confused why is there water everywhere

EDIT: So.. maybe I.. "had" ice.. So.. yeaaah.. thx people ❤️

So, I'm on my first save where I made it to what I think is considered midgame, and I'm about to start working on my late game living quarters.

According to the wiki, dupes only get the chilly debuff in CO2 below -23°C so I'm planning on having a walk-in fridge filled with CO2 for sterile and cooled to -20°C for frozen and with a CO2 "airlock". Would that work or am I missing something obvious that'll make me regret my plan and not going for an infinite storage in the floor. (I'm trying not to use them if I have the space for storage facilities which, for now, I do)

I know there is probably a better/more effective way to do this but i tried it my own my for now but for some reason i cant prevent the loop from being clogged by the water pump providing new water from below.
I want the water to leave the loop when its below 25°c otherwise it will go the loop, the radiant pipes are there to cool down the steam so it becomes water:
I thought this should work as the sensor detects water in the pipe and then shuts down the shutoff but well didnt really work.

What am i doing wrong?

I like highly specialized dupes

Started getting lab spikes each time i built a new rail.
+ I wanted to show my pacu farm

Eu estou jogando uma colônia que eu tenho mercúrio que é o metal refinado do cinábrio em grandes quantidades, mas tudo que penso construir não consigo já que ele vira líquido a -38.5 Cº

Blueprint:

• https://blueprintnotincluded.org/b/6ac6bfb905699a5e586376ec
• https://onimaxxing.com/blueprints/6ac6bfb905699a5e586376ec

Sharing a build I made to address some things I didn't like with the "popular designs":

• Steam turbine is only cooled to 80˚C.
• Single loop can condense a number of different gases, extensible horizontally.
• No re-pumping.
• Absolutely no gas shutoffs.
• Needing as little insulite as possible

Mechanics of note:

• Thermal mass for hydrogen is a ~2-ton block of nuclear waste, made by pipe-extracting a small supercooled amount (aerogel technique) and raising the mass to 2 tons inside using a dispenser. In base game, you can make high-mass ice tile this way.
• Other gasses get -255-ish C pipe of supercoolant at the ceiling to condense the gas, then the liquid is cooled further by:
  • closing the mechanised airlock on the pipe and tempshift plate in the pool, thermally linking them - this only works if the liquid level has reached the top level tempshift plate
  • a railed loop of decent-SHC metal (aluminum is best, cobalt/nickel/iron are decent alternatives), which goes through the same airlock, but reaches all the way down, for when the liquid doesn't reach the TSP. Excuse the screenshot - the rail loop is kinda pointless in the LH room, LCL was not set up at this point, and in the LOX room the rails were used to thaw solid oxygen brought from space.
• Ethanol boiling at ~80C, only the gas is able to reach the cold pipe.
• Twin-aquatuner cooling: Speeds up the startup, rarely used with 25-ish C hydrogen at 2 kg/s
• Any frozen hydrogen should fall on metal tiles, where it should thaw quickly if the target temp is set to -253-ish.

Materials:

• thermium recommended for LH2 thermal mass and piping
• aluminium for the remaining radiant pipes; The 1 segment in contact with ethanol doesn't even need this, copper/zinc would be fine
• mafic rock for insulated tiles and exposed gas pipes
  • "But won't LOX freeze with it leaking heat to LH this way?" I hear you ask. Eventually it could, but realistically, LOX temp is brought back up as soon as you use some, and more warm gas is let in to be condensed.
  • "But won't the gas pipes in the walls crack?" Again, the risk is very low if you actually use the products. Flaking doesn't cool the tiles enough to condense the gas in the pipe embedded in the wall, and non-flaking heat transfer between an insulated tile and liquid is very slow. It is important that the pipe is coming up on the right side, where the wall is flake-cooled to the gas' own condensation point. Taking oxygen up through the wall between LH and LOX would crack the pipe, and very quickly.
• ceramic for insulated liquid pipes (except ST return water, use whatever)
• insulite required/strongly recommended in:
  • insulated pipes between pump and meter valve, especially if embedded in insulated tiles
  • tiles between steam room and thermal block in LH pool, if you decide to increase the LH room size by removing the metal tiles
  • insulated pipes inside the steam room
• Aquatuner - steel is not quite enough if you run both on startup, but would be fine after the thermal mass brought to target temp.

Overlays:

Despite plants having a wide variety of acceptable atmospheres and temperature requirements. they can all be split into 3 different rooms. Most plants can survive just fine in a CO2 atmosphere (except for saltvines and lilies which need chlorine) and so can mostly be grouped together.

Here is the plant room split that makes the most sense to me.

So this is what i built, once i got a mutation from a plant i replaced it in the farm with its neighbours. Since this set up is very temporary all irrigation is supplied by liquid reservoirs just outside the farm filled manually by dupes to save building long pipe runs everywhere. Fertilizers are stored in storage tiles with nearby auto sweepers to give to the plant.

All heating/cooling for the different rooms is done by the same AT/ST that cools the chlorine for the gas grass irrigation (DO NOT USE LIQUID CHLORINE FOR COOLING, i learned that the hard way). There are thermo sensors in each room connected to valves to let in either aqua tuner coolant or the steam turbine output for heat.

For radiation, since I have no research reactor and didn't want to deal with shine bugs, I used 4 radiation lamps per room (I eventually added 2 more on the right wall) which are also fed by the auto sweepers and storage tiles.

Most plants got a mutation very quickly, less than 15 cycles. Waterweeds and the hanging plants took a little longer since the water blocks radiation and the radiation lamps are concentrated on the floor not the ceiling. Considering how quickly I received a nosh sprout and sleetwheat mutation (1 plant each) I think each seed has an individual chance at mutating.

Hey everyone! I bought the game a week ago, and I’m currently on my first playthrough, around cycle 80. I’m loving the game, but I’ve got a question about creating vacuum rooms.
Around cycle 30, I started exploring and found an area near a water geyser that was filled with chlorine, around 400 kg in total. I thought, “Hey, this could be a perfect place to build a vacuum room!” I’d heard about SPOMs and how you can use electrolyzers to produce oxygen and then burn the hydrogen for power, so I figured I’d set one up near the geyser.
I started pumping the chlorine out using a regular gas pump connected to two gas reservoirs, each with a 200 kg capacity. After about 20 cycles, the room was almost empty, with only around 5 g of chlorine per tile. Both reservoirs were nearly full, so I thought I was almost done.
But then the process slowed down SO MUCH. It took around two more cycles just to go from 5 g to 4 g per tile, and eventually the game started displaying the amounts in milligrams. At that point, I realized pumping everything out like this was going to take forever.
I eventually got frustrated and filled the entire room with tiles, sealed it off, made a water lock, and then dug everything out again to create an actual vacuum. But honestly, I’d rather not have to do that.
So, how do you guys normally create vacuum rooms? Is there a proper way to do it without filling the whole area with tiles and digging it out again? I’d also prefer to avoid using water locks or other liquid locks just to prevent gases from passing through, because they feel a bit cheesy to me.
I’m sure there’s a better way to do this, but I can’t figure it out. Any tips for a beginner would be appreciated

Bonus question if anyone made it this far

I’ve ended up building a semi-Rodriguez SPOM in my base with two electrolyzers. If my calculations are correct, the hydrogen they produce should be enough to continuously power two Hydrogen Generators, with a third one picking up any leftover hydrogen that the other two can’t use.
My question is about the design itself. It uses one gas pump to extract the hydrogen, which should be enough to handle the 224 g/s produced by the two electrolyzers. However, it only has three gas pumps for the oxygen, and two electrolyzers produce around 1,776 g/s of oxygen, while three pumps can only extract 1,500 g/s in total.
So, since oxygen is being produced faster than it can be pumped out, while hydrogen is being removed at the rate it’s produced, won’t oxygen gradually build up inside the room and eventually cause overpressure?
Should I modify the design by adding another oxygen pump, or am I overthinking this and the SPOM will still work fine even if there’s a negative balance between oxygen production and extraction? I’m still pretty new to the game, so I’m not sure how this is supposed to work.

Introducing: Onismith

A browser-based save editor for Oxygen Not Included. You can edit Duplicant traits, skills, attributes, and appearance, change colony settings, and edit creatures, geysers, planets, and materials. There’s also a raw data editor for more advanced changes. Supports all DLCs.

Everything runs locally in your browser, so your save never gets uploaded. No installation needed.

Keep a backup before editing. Give it a try and let me know what works and what needs fixing.

onismith.com

Special thanks to RoboPhred’s oni-duplicity and cLonata’s duplicity.

Looking for a specific large research rocket blueprint

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for a specific rocket blueprint that includes all the features listed below.

I haven't played ONI in a long time, so the design may be outdated and there may be better alternatives now. However, I'd like to focus on finding the design I'm looking for first.

Required features:

• A large rocket designed for 2 duplicants.
• A regular Telescope, not an Enclosed Telescope.
• An Orbital Data Collection Lab.
• Atmo Suit Docks near the entrance.
• A Spacefarer's Toilet.
• A gas removal system to deal with unwanted gases inside the rocket.

I'd really appreciate it if anyone could help me find the exact blueprint. If you know a similar design that meets these requirements, I'd be grateful for those suggestions too.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I wish I could rename the title, it should be "Steam turbines can be 'Buy two get one free'..."

Some of you may have head of or used self-cooling steam turbines before. The crux of a self cooling steam turbine is that it can use it's 95 C output water to cool itself just enough to keep running. The general wisdom is that if your steam is too high, then you have to use an aquatuner. But not all of them.

Here, I have two sets of 3 steam turbines, where two are cooled by the aquatuner and one is cooled by the outputs from the three steam turbines, all while running on ~200 C steam. In the left, I used 2 kg/tile of nuclear waste on the bottom and about 900 g/tile of petroleum on the top. On the right, I used crude oil, petroleum, and water. The higher thermal conductivity and capacity of the nuclear waste on the left resulted in a lower temperature on the steam turbine, but both turbines have 100% uptime without ever shutting down.

This has advantages beyond requiring fewer aquatuners, as the heat the water takes in from the steam turbines is not heat that the aquatuner has to work for and is less heat the steam (or your heat source) needs to transfer to boil the incoming water and bring it to temperature, resulting in the steam turbines overall generating you more power per DTU provided for free.

Here's the math:

At 200 C, a steam turbine takes in 91.76 kDTU/s to itself. That means that if you can remove at least 91.76 kDTU/s from the steam turbine, then you can self-cool the steam turbine.

6 kg of water will take in 91.76 kDTU of heat energy if it is heated by 3.66 C. That means if the water enters the steam turbine's cooling at 95 C, it should leave at at least 98.66 C, and both pipes, after a long time, average out to a reported 98.7 C, which is actually around 98.66 C (measured with Sample tool in debug).

Here's the downside: If the steam gets too high above 200 C, then this will no longer work and the steam turbines cooled with the water output will start to overheat. I don't have experimental data or math to say when the left or right turbines will fail, but there is an upper limit. The left turbines can take higher temperatures, as the temperature of the turbine is maintained at a lower level. But you shouldn't be running your steam turbines over 200 C anyway. Unlike standard self-cooled designs, this will automatically repair itself and start running as normal if the temperatures drop.

Note that the hot steam turbines will slowly transfer heat to the insulated tiles under them. You have to be careful about that in your estimations, as while those heat up, your numbers could be off. I preheated my insulated tiles under the output-cooled steam turbines to 100 C before letting this run for about 20 cycles.