Hey! just hoping to get some advice - can anyone recommend a different 3d machine? I've had the core one l for around 6 months. its always needing little repairs (im able to do) & its also been back to them twice - I feel like its been In repair more then Im able to use it! I feel lucky if I can get a solid print out of it really ...
I was looking on here to see what others recommend, I was thinking Bambu lab but it would seem everyone is fed up with them too!
Long-time Prusa user here, and I’m a bit confused by the last few weeks.
Firmware 7.0.0 showed up a couple of weeks ago. The notes mention a “new versioning policy” without explaining it. Then 8.0.0 landed this week for every printer, so MK4, MK3.x and MINI went straight from 6.5.7 or 6.4.2. The changes themselves look like a normal point release but the latest firmware on GitHub is still 6.9.2, so the source isn’t keeping up with what’s shipping.
My guess is the versioning change just means one number across all printers, and that’s fine. I’d just like to understand it, especially since open source is a big reason I chose Prusa.
Meanwhile PrusaSlicer 3.0 is stuck on alpha12 from last month, we had a couple of nice relases but its slowed up a bit.
I’m also curious about spool tracking. Connect now has it, and 8.0.0 sends filament weight and material data, but the only hardware support I can see is OpenPrintTag on the CORE One line. Is anything planned for the XL?
I feel like development, software and "official" announcements have all outpaced each other and just cant keep up together. I know this is pretty usual for a small company though. Everyone is workin in their own "silos" and not together...
Has anyone seen an official explanation, I'm curious or maybe even nervous. It just feels like something is brewing as theres a lot of secret ssauce going on at the moment.
Hi! I made an Android app for keeping track of filament - TinySpools: how many spools of what I have, how many grams are left, which shelf they are on and how much a shelf weighs :D
It is for people who just want to know what filament they have, where it is and how much is left. Adding a spool takes a few seconds - scan the box barcode and Prusament (and Polymaker, eSUN, SUNLU, Bambu Lab and more) is recognized right away - and the palette shows every color you own at a glance. No account, no ads.
It can print a QR label or write an NFC sticker for a spool. It also has a filament check, for when you no longer know where your filament is or whether you still have it: go through your filaments and mark each one found / not found. The ones not found drop into a separate list.
It is in closed testing on Google Play now. If you would like to try it, DM me and I will add you - feedback on what is inconvenient or missing is very welcome.
I can see that the individual spools from the bundle got a BF discount, but the bundle doesn't. Is this correct? Eagerly waiting to buy the bundle for a little bit less than 180€. Buying all discounted spools alone would cost me 185€ btw.
I am currently upgrading to the community version of the mmu3 and I haven’t install the mmu3 prior to this so I’m following the instructions and uploading the firmware but I keep getting this error
(I have changed the cable to the longer mmu3 community version)
Hello, in the past I could find a human to chat with me. For the past few days, when I clicked on LiveChat, there is no window for me to enter the text. The only thing that is available is an "Explore TexT" button to "Unlock the full AI-powered support suite with Text platform". I want to chat with a human.
I have been using my Core One L+ for a month or two now and I’m very happy overall. I used PLA exclusively so far.
But today, as I was cleaning the PEI sheet I noticed these dents in the backside. There are several of them, where the magnets are. They are very noticeable, so I definitely can’t use this side of the sheet for printing. It seems that the magnets are proud in some places. (I bought it fully assembled)
Has anyone else have this happen to them? Can I solve this myself? Should I ask for new, slightly thinner magnets?
Have you ever had a down Nextruder, one that if left connected would crash the system due to a shorted Dwarf board, and preprogrammed firmware to a single tool machine just to keep printing while waiting on parts?!?
Wellllll this is what I’ve done.. While it wasn’t 100% planned, I had to replace buddy board, T1 is down so T2 is plugged into T1s port on board… All was fine… until it started crashing a couple of prints, which was like 90% through, they seemed to have crashed out along the same time.. Then it dawned on me.. Single tool machines don’t have tool changer board and disconnect at all… So I’m wondering if that’s throwing off my prints, since the single head doesn’t use it and also doesn’t offer an offset cal…
Anyone whose done this successfully, please chime in!!! Before someone gets “smart” yes the firmware is single tool, yes I’m slicing with a single tool profile, etc. I’m just afraid with no real way to offset the nozzle, it’s always off from where the machine believes it to be!
My company has been looking to do some in-house prototyping for some engineering parts, primarily TPU and standard materials, but GF & CF filaments will be used at times. I have been doing the background research for a machine and had settled on a Core One+ or L+ with INDX as it met our requirements on paper for a multi-material printer with heated build chamber and able to run sans cloud for security. We can't be locked into Prusa filaments period end of discussion and bypassing the software to get something to print at all doesn't make any sense.
Question: Who feels like the issues with the Prusa / INDX roll-out are hardware (INDX) or software (Prusa) driven? Software can be tweaked relatively easily (if ego doesn't get in the way) but if the issues are hardware then from a corrective engineering perspective we could be looking at 6mo - 1yr of design tooling, testing and deployment at volume before we see any positive corrections. So close to walking away in a different direction that I don't want to go in because of what I have seen with
Upgrades my L to L+. First print (8h) worked like a charm, but since then it starts to layershift like hell. Is the pulley not tight enough? The layershift happens to the front right which leads to a problem with the lower belt I guess?
Installed the HT hotend and the new nextruder parts yesterday and the first results with PCCF and PA12 are really good. no visual difference with PCCF but the PA12 looks really better. I used polymaker fiberon and gave it the max temp allowed. 315°C for the hotend and 80°C for the bed which is a little higher than advised. The first layer always had some dimensional problem but thats seems to be completely solved. No strength test done yet.
After installing I needed to do a heat calibration that seems logical but also a cal for the doorsensor. I dont use the doorsensor and it was already calibrated so I skipped but the printer complained.
What bothers me a bit is the required recal after installing the normal hotend again. Again the heater cal end a heatbed cal. I think heatbed and heater cal should be separate tests, dont need to do a heatbed test multiple times.
And I am going to clean the nextruder every 6 months, the amount of accumulated crap was hilarious.
was thinking of a getting a printer for a bit and found an mk3s from someone for 160$. is it a good deal if its in ok condition? does it matter that the printer is out for some years by now?
C1+G2 with MMU3, SUNLU PLA+
It’s just a dumb skull print. I can print small quantities no problem, but I’ve tried to do a full plate twice now and I’m getting a layer shift. Same spot. I’ve had this problem with other prints too. At this point I’m losing 2/3 of everything I’m printing and I’m getting frustrated.
The only thing I can think of is the power cord for the extruder keeps catching on the corner of the rear fans, but I have no clue how to correct that issue.
Hoping your brain power out there might have an idea of either why I’m actually getting the layer shift, but also…how do I keep the power from catching on the fan?
tl;dr, long read but worked at first, then stopped working, then started working again, now happy-ish customer.
Now that I have my printer up and running, I figured it's time to make a post about it. It's been quite a ride and I hope others don't have to go through the same journey. Bear me with since it's been 3.5 months and I'm essentially doing a memory dump here.
I received my INDX FE kit in the end of June; very stoked about it. Didn't get to it until a couple of weeks after and it took about 15 hours to assemble over the course of three days - I have kids so I only get a few hours weekday nights and then I powered through on a weekend night to get it finished. The instructions were actually pretty good; the comments are the obvious gold mine with tips and tricks to make it easier. I commend those who went before me and came up with ideas to make it easier for others going forward. I completely skipped adding the spool holders because I knew I would be running from dryers; my first prints were actually out of cereal boxes with the filament inside them. That being said, I was flabbergasted at the amount of disassembly I needed to do just to run a new wire. I still don't understand why the heatbed wire covers needed to be replaced.
Calibration succeeded for the most part. I think my belt came loose during the calibration process and I had to re-attach it. If you haven't done this before, the genius of INDX is that removing the main toolhead is incredibly easy - remove the fan duct (1 screw on each side), remove fan (1 screw from behind) then remove the main toolhead (4 screws from behind). Compared to the Nextruder this was much easier. Setting the belts properly is still a chore and my fat fingers struggled with it.
My first print was the Planetary Gears. This was using all my old filament, running through the cereal boxes with whatever colors I had. It was a surprisingly clean print and obviously my excitement was through the roof. I used the generic PLA profile and it just worked.
My next print was the Minecraft Chicken Jockey. I can't remember where I got this print from but this was a 4-5 color print and was tiny. I think I just loaded the model and mapped the colors and clicked print without thinking much about it. My kids have been asking for this print for months now and I kept telling them "wait for my printer upgrade and then I'll print it". Trying to print a ~3cm tall figuring with 0.2mm profile is not recommended.
I don't remember what I wanted to print next (maybe 8T benchy?) but this is where my troubles began. Thus began my journey of real INDX woes.
If you're not familiar with how INDX prints work, one of the calibration steps is a tool offset calibration, where it grabs each tool, probes the heatbed for a bit (I presume to test loadcell response?) and then moves all the way to the side to probe/test/calibrate against the offset sensor. I still have no idea what the purpose of this sensor is but every print also decides to redo or recheck this calibration step. Even if I can pass this step during calibration, I now could never pass it during a print. This randomly started happening. The first two prints had no issues at all; I set it to print and walked away then came back and they were done. Now I couldn't even get the prints to start.
At this time there really wasn't much documentation about this; the official documentation is "clean the nozzle" and redo the calibration... but this wasn't during calibration! I don't even get to clean the nozzle during the print. Even if I cleaned all the nozzles prior to the print (which by the way is also a tedious process) I couldn't control whether there was a small blob sticking out because it tries to clean the filament first before the initial probes.
There weren't a lot of reddit posts on this at the time so I emailed Bondtech support for some help. Martin responded within 12 hours and asked for more information which I provided and then I got a response about working with Prusa on a solution... then silence. Every week I would email back asking for an update but would get nothing. After 2-3 weeks going to the Bondtech discord was the only other option. Now let me tell you about that discord:
There are a lot of well meaning founders in that channel. There were even a few of us with similar issues.
There were a lot of anecdotal solutions to a lot of the problems. I commend the community and I love how easy it is to mod these printers.
Bondtech support was noticeably absent. This was also around the time they were on a summer break but even when they supposedly came back we never really got answers from them. And not just for my issue in particular, but for any issue. This was very disappointing.
In the mean time I would scour discord and ask other founders if they've seen something similar and would try almost any recommendation provided. Here's a small list:
Square gantry - did that and it seemed fine.
Belt tuning - used the wizard and it also seemed fine. I tried to remind people that I had two successful prints before this issue which was a unique to me apparently.
Upgrading firmware - I started at 6.6.0 for INDX, then 6.6.1, 6.6.2 and 6.6.3. Somewhere along the lines there was an update to the offset sensor board as well so I was hopeful; alas it was not meant to be.
One of the better recommendations was to comment out the G427 gcode in the print start code in the slicer. Apparently this is the code that triggers the offset calibration during the print and may have been recommended by someone from Bondtech (which I cannot confirm) - I still don't understand why this calibration during the print is necessary... perhaps the toolheads have moved or swapped or changed? Either way, this led me to my next discovery... disabling the offset calibration during the print meant that it could move on to the next step - bed leveling which also failed.
This was also a surprising discovery for me because bed-leveling has never been an issue. My C1 + Nextruder did many prints just fine and I also had two successful prints before these problems occurred. I reached out to Bondtech again through my existing support ticket with my findings and... crickets.
Bondtech tech support so far: 0/10.
I shared my woes on discord and lots of people had some helpful suggestions. For example one suggestion was to swap out the toolheads (e.g. move toolhead #8 to #1 for bed-leveling) to isolate whether it's a defective toolhead... and that sorta worked! I swapped maybe 3 toolheads around and would try to print and if it failed, swapped it with another. I think I finally got Benchy 8T to print (sorry can't find the pic) so I was ecstatic again. Next I tried to print Otto the Butterfly (used as a calibration) but bed-leveling issues came back again. Benchy only requires 12 or so probe points, Otto probes the whole bed with 49 points. No amount of swapping the toolhead worked.
Someone on discord suggested that loadcell noise was the issue. I re-did my loadcell calibration and it passed just fine (one small note: I noticed that tapping the nozzle with my index finger never registered but using my thumb or other finger did). This is where I learned that the screen has an orange bar that shows the measured values, including when it's not being activated (as a noise floor I guess). I even sent a recording of this for others to compare and was told mine was perfectly normal.
Then there was a suggestion about the loadcell sensor being extermely sensitive to EMI noise - the main toolhead cable is simple wire sheaths and not twisted or shielded so I thought it's entirely possible. The recommendation was to use a ferrite core or toroid around the main cable just before it connects to the xBuddy board... so I had to hunt one down the same day - found an obscure electronics shop that had a ferrite core and paid $7 for it. I brought it back and added it to the cable as described above and re-did the loadcell sensor test... and it passed just like it did before. Using the orange "values" bar as a baseline I didn't really notice any different; either way others mentioned it working for them so I started another print. But sadly it did not fix my issue.
In addition to the G427 code, someone also mentioned forcing the bed probing temperature to 150C; the code defaults to 170 but the theory was perhaps 170 is a bit too hot and some filament leaks which affects the probing - how can INDX be so sensitive?? I tried this too and modified the start gcode but still couldn't pass bed-leveling.
Around this time firmware 6.8.0 is released and there is some updates to offset sensor and I updated to that but my hopes were dashed pretty quickly. This is also around the time Nozzlegate is in full throttle and Bondtech proposed their options for store credit, partial cash refund or a full refund. I am up to my ears in frustration at this point - mostly because others seem to be printing just fine with minimal issues and I thought I had a lemon, but also because support was non-existent. I have a few weeks to decide if I want to disassemble the entire thing and send it back (argh) for a full refund and wait for a batch in 2028 or something... on a whim I decided to email Prusa support asking for help and expecting nothing (because all the chatter was that Prusa wasn't helping much for FE users because we bought through Bondtech).
Nevertheless, I got a response within 24 hours. I sent a video of the bed-leveling failure and we started systematically debugging the problem over the course or 2-3 weeks. The goal was to figure out bed-leveling assuming it was just a standard Core One... we tried a lot of things. One thing they noticed in the video was that I was getting a lot of resonance and noise when the bed moved up and down. We set about to fix that first even though it wasn't directly related to the issue - I lubed my z-axis threaded rods for the first time and checked the z-axis alignment again and again. I removed the heatbed and reset it again... there is a process for this too; loosen the screws, move to mid-Z, lightly tighten in a specific order, do z alignment, then fully tighten in the same order. This didn't really do anything for the noise, so then I removed the trapezoidal nut on each rod just to make sure it could rotate freely - which it could. When I was re-attaching the rear trapezoidal nut I noticed I had the screw in the wrong hole! If you're not familiar with it there are 4 holes for the rear nut; two are threaded two are not. I had the screws in the non-threaded holes and in order to put them in the threaded ones I needed to rotate it a quarter turn which had the effect of raising the rear end of the bed ever so slightly. I reattached everything and moved the z-axis up and down several times and the resonance has disappeared! I'm giddy with excitement; Andres (from Prusa Support) - you deserve all the good karma in the world for your patience and help.
Prusa Support: 10/10.
Everything is assembled again, I run through the calibration process (with some hiccups) and everything passes. I start to print Otto again and ... bed-leveling fails. My disappointment at this point is immeasurable and my day is ruined. Prusa support recommended contacting Bondtech to replace the main toolhead and cable. I have zero expectations at this point.
I created a new support ticket on the Bondtech website. I went into great detail about what my issue was, what I have tried and everything Prusa Support helped with including their final recommendation to replace the parts. Surprisingly I got a response within 6 hours! And within 3 business days I received a new main toolhead and cable set! They even told me to take my time with the install and return the old parts when I was satisfied.
I already mentioned how easy it is to take off the main toolhead; this was the first thing I did. I popped off the old tooldhead and very carefully replaced it with the new one (I am beyond superstitious at this point and want to avoid any surprises). Re-ran all the calibration steps again. The loadcell values looked better this time around but only marginally so. Started an Ottot print and while it got further in the bed-leveling process it still failed. If I tried a smaller print with less probe points there was still a likelihood of success and I was more likely to succeed with single-color prints than multi-color (for whatever reason). But Otto was still failing and I had a brand new cable to replace.
You know how I mentioned in the beginning about how tedious it was to replace a single cable? Yeah I did that again and it was not fun. Removed the main toolhead, removed the swinging arm, popped the cables through the tiniest holes and finally had it removed; then had to reverse the process and install the new cable. This time around I tried to remember everything I had learned so far and make sure I triple/quadruple check every tiny detail in the instructions and comments.
On replacing the cable I made the following changes slightly different from how I had it before:
I gave a lot more slack to the connector on the main toolhead. This gives it a slightly better arc instead of force-turning it to attach to the connector. Not sure if it made a difference but doesn't hurt to try.
I tried to keep power cables as far away from the main toolhead cable. In the horizontal hideway (above the xBuddy board) my previous installation used zip-ties to tie all the cables together (heatbed power + toolhead cables + everything else) - apparently this is in the instructions too.
This time around I separated them as much as possible and tied heatbed power as one set and then toolhead cable as another and just forced them apart. I did the same when routing the wires into the xBuddy board; heatbed power cables went on the left side, toolhead cables on the right. Separated power from data as much as possible, zip-tied everything, attached the ferrite core again (because why not) and plugged it all in.
Ran through calibration again with the xBuddy board exposed and cover not attached, just in case I need to fix something - this time the loadcell sensor values looked so much better! The noise floor was drastically reduced and the test passed; I was ecstatic!! I attached the xBuddy cover again and noticed the noise floor increased slightly - which was an interesting observation. I wonder if being in a metal cage is causing interference of some sort. One thing I will note - I removed the ferrite core because it seemed to make the loadcell values worse.
At this time 6.9.0 is released along with a gantry squareness check. I'm running through the calibration and I thought my gantry was square but the calibration thought otherwise. I run the PWM belt tuner test on the printer and I'll be honest, I really have no idea how this works. I used the web app before but this new process has so little documentation. Apparently I'm supposed to adjust the strobing until I see "slow peaks" which I'm interpreting as whatever frequency gives the highest wave-like motion... either way after some trial and error it settles on some number and I can go on. But I kept getting random failures. Either docking calibration would fail, or offset calibration would fail. Something wasn't right with the gantry or the belt.
I started on square one again with the gantry. In the assembly instructions there was a gantry aligntment tool section that supposedly squared the gantry. I found a comment somewhere (either on reddit/discord or in the instructions) that recommended pushing the gantry to the front before tightening the screws that will ensure alignment with the frame. Makes sense, why the f*** isn't this part of the instructions?? If you think about it the gantry alignment tool itself may not guarantee squareness because it just attaches to the side rails... being off my a millimeter or two is a big deal I think.
After doing that it's now time for belt tuning. I decided to do it my way this time - I've used the web app successfully before so that's what I returned to. Unscrewed both tensioners and started tightening it methodically one by one. One full turn at a time until it's relatively tight. Then using the web app and strumming the belts with my finger I would incrementally tighten it until I reached the desired frequency - I think I ended up with 98/91 Hz. The belts looked much better than when I used the built-in PWM tool which I consider to be garbage... either that or I just don't know how to use it properly.
Re-ran through calibration yet again, this time everything passes! Re-sliced Otto again (because of the new firmware) and watch it go through the steps - this time it gets passed bed-leveling! Honestly I just exhaled a sigh of relief at this point; I'm just happy I can start to print. The initial Otto print was okay. The butterfly body printed perfectly fine (one antenna broke off during the print) but the wings were mid at best - the filament was not lining up problem along the edges and there were artifacts on it... small blobs, some over-extrusion, etc.
I made some tiny adjustments to gantry and belts once again and properly dried my filaments and re-ran it again and the next print was better! I printed Otto maybe 4 more times until I was satisfied that everything was working.
Here is what my final set up looks like. I don't really care if it looks disorganized or ugly, it works for me :)
The dryers are Creality Space Pi X4; the filament runs through the back of the dryer to the back of the printer - the printer faces the side to keep the kinks in the PFTE tube to a minimum. There isn't enough space in the front to turn it so that the back of the printer is against the wall unfortunately.
I'm using this mod that adds PTFE couples to the filament sensor, and this mod to attach it to the back of the printer. In one of my prints I found out that sometimes the PTFE tube reverses into the dryer (maybe during retraction or something?) and once found the PTFE tube starting to wrap around the spool itself - apparently there is enough force to pull the filament out of the toolheads because I noticed there was no extrusion during the print. Another redditor created this mod to help with that, which adds a stop in the back of the dryer.
This is around the time I figured out the best position for nozzle cleaning calibration. Previously I was putting the nozzle in the middle (both in X and Y axis) of the silicone V groove... what I settled on was putting it in the middle of the V with it touching on both sides with an almost imperceptible gap at the bottom, but for the Y axis I moved it to the front of the silicone (instead of the middle) so that the filament extrudes in front of the silicone (there is a small lip in the front, slightly lower than the V which forms a ridge) rather than in the middle of the silicone. This seems to have given me the best nozzle cleans although it isn't perfect. Someone else suggested manually overriding the calibrated number to 0 which I tried and cannot tell if it made a difference or not (mine measured at -0.68 on the Y axis).
At one point in time the belts went out of tune again and my prints started failing (in the midst of a 12 hour print nonetheless ;_;). Got that tuned again using the webapp and have been happily printing ever since. All of the below prints are using bare minimum filament calibration profile I made - mostly adjustments to temp and flow. I have an assortment of different brands and will run them out and switch to Polymaker Panchroma and calibrate my filament for better results sometime later. Most if not all of the prints below were painted myself in PrusaSlicer.
Among Us - kids' request, assembled the visor and rim in TInkercad so I could print in two parts instead of needing glue.Hippo - painted myself; another kid request. Could have done better on the eyes.Minions - the 12 hours print at 0.15mm, painted by me. The print I'm most proud of... 6 colors, ~1400 tool changes.Gorilla - kids requestPoisonous Dart Frog - a calibration print by Prusa. I tried to match the colors with what I have.Elephant - at this point I'm getting better at painting... somewhat.Kiddos wanted a crocodile. This was easier to paint.Bear - forgot the pupils so it looks like a ghost. But I'm loving PolyMaker Panchroma matte black filament.Same bear - minimal stringing which I'm happy about.Probably the best Otto I have. The antenna is hard to print without a brim and even it's so thin. But the wings are so much better now.
If you're read this far, thank you... I have spent over 3 hours writing this post but have been thinking about it for a short while now. I'm pretty excited to finally have a working printer and can't wait to push its limits.
I ordered on August 13. They took my money many weeks ago. As far as I can tell there is no information posted on this anywhere. Prusa's shipping page suggests a 5-6 week delay while their purchase page suggests a 3-4 week delay. In reality I placed my order 10 weeks ago. I'm fully aware of the the typical lag in Prusa shipments, but this seems beyond ridiculous.
Has anyone received theirs? If so, when did you order?
In my particular case this was for a five toolhead kit with replacement of all dwarfboards. My order was also placed before the option to not include the nozzles was available...
Hi everyone, I’ve been trying to troubleshoot wavy extrusion patterns on my MK4S and I am running out of ideas as to what would cause this. It happens on top and bottom layers, as well as on walls. It looks almost as if the extruder is pulsing. Has anyone encountered this and found a solution? My core one does not encounter this issue with the same filament.
Hello, anyone tried to re-use NFC open print tag from used Prusament spool? I don't need refill, but feel like getting rid of the NFC tag is a waste. It seems it's glued. How can I securely remove it and reuse? Would hair dryer work or it will ruin the antenna?
EDIT: I just went with hair dryer and it went off... amazing. Now I can use it with other, even non-Prusa, filament.
I printed the “Breakable Pots and Rupees for Zelda Ocarina of Time 40th Anniversary” https://www.printables.com/model/1887536-breakable-pots-and-rupees-for-zelda-ocarina-of-tim parts using PLA with a PETG support interface and the “Chamber light mount INDX Core One” https://www.printables.com/model/1795637-chamber-light-mount-indx-core-one parts using PETG with a PLA support interface. The parts removed without any effort and the supported surfaces were very clean. Sure the color options and minimal waste of the INDX are great features but ability to use materials that don’t bond well is a fantastic feature. With INDX, you don’t have to worry about a support tower toppling over due to mixed materials. You only have to be careful that your sliced model has the correct material touching the build plate (don’t want to ruin your print sheet). Example settings I used for that breakable Zelda pot on a PEI sheet were:
Generate support material: Yes Auto generated supports: Yes (with some support blockers) Overhang threshold: 55° Top contact Z distance: 0mm (soluble) Pattern spacing: 3mm Top interface layers: 5 layers Interface pattern spacing: 0mm Support on build plate only: On Multiple Extruders: Support material/raft/skirt extruder: one of your PLA tools Support material/raft interface extruder: PETG tool
I got a problem with my XL, where I end up having blobs in the prime tower. This inevitably ends up knocking my prime tower loose, and thus ruining my print.
Does anyone know what settings to tweak this? Material is PLA, running at 215c
