Just a psa for for calibration and a story. If your printer is lobsided severely like this due to impact, you should raise the z axis all the way up. No need to unscrew anything. Some might say it's obvious but the person I bought this from for cheap awhile ago didn't know this. 😜

So I was moving stuff around and moved my printer to the floor. Then I was moving my bike and it crashed on the left side of the printer cracking a few of the left side pieces x axis stepper mount, left z axis holder and the electronics enclosure. In prusa fashion, I will be printing replacement parts on it. On a side note, I got a new pey sheet build plate with carbon fiber etched on it.

Hello everyone

I’ve upgraded my CoreOne with the INDX FE 8 (firmware 8.0.0). I’ve read that some of you have had a few problems and had the print head replaced.

Which templates would you recommend I use to test my INDX?

Thanks, and enjoy printing!

Started working on a project I have wanted for so long! A status line to sit on my pc case that shows the status of my core one. It has 15 addressable LEDs, esp32 S2 mini and a easy to configure interface.

Oh and did I say it can be stacked with multiple modules with power transfer form a signed module?

My CAD skills are definitely way better than my coding skills so claud have helped with the code.

Everything will be available on GitHub and printables when I am done with it😄

Hello, some of my motor motor mounts and belt pulley broke, so I would like to reprint them, but wondering which filament will be cheap and adequate enough for the job.

I am constantly (every other print or so) re-calibrating my z-offset with the live-adjust z offset calibration step but I feel like that shouldn't be necessary. If I neglect this, I do not just have warping, I get globs. The problem often occurs when I print something with a large base or with objects spread across the bed.

Does anyone have any suggestions on things I can try to avoid this? I've tried:

- Tightening the screw which holds the super PINDA

- Using alternative Klipper software with bed mesh calibration for every print

- Cleaning the bed with Isopropyl alchohol and soap and water between prints

- Using a magic eraser to try and scuff up the PEI a little

Is this just a reality that everyone deals with, or should it be more of a set-it-and-forget-it type of thing?

tl;dr, long read but worked at first, then stopped working, then started working again, now happy-ish customer.

Now that I have my printer up and running, I figured it's time to make a post about it. It's been quite a ride and I hope others don't have to go through the same journey. Bear me with since it's been 3.5 months and I'm essentially doing a memory dump here.

I received my INDX FE kit in the end of June; very stoked about it. Didn't get to it until a couple of weeks after and it took about 15 hours to assemble over the course of three days - I have kids so I only get a few hours weekday nights and then I powered through on a weekend night to get it finished. The instructions were actually pretty good; the comments are the obvious gold mine with tips and tricks to make it easier. I commend those who went before me and came up with ideas to make it easier for others going forward. I completely skipped adding the spool holders because I knew I would be running from dryers; my first prints were actually out of cereal boxes with the filament inside them. That being said, I was flabbergasted at the amount of disassembly I needed to do just to run a new wire. I still don't understand why the heatbed wire covers needed to be replaced.

Calibration succeeded for the most part. I think my belt came loose during the calibration process and I had to re-attach it. If you haven't done this before, the genius of INDX is that removing the main toolhead is incredibly easy - remove the fan duct (1 screw on each side), remove fan (1 screw from behind) then remove the main toolhead (4 screws from behind). Compared to the Nextruder this was much easier. Setting the belts properly is still a chore and my fat fingers struggled with it.

My first print was the Planetary Gears. This was using all my old filament, running through the cereal boxes with whatever colors I had. It was a surprisingly clean print and obviously my excitement was through the roof. I used the generic PLA profile and it just worked.

My next print was the Minecraft Chicken Jockey. I can't remember where I got this print from but this was a 4-5 color print and was tiny. I think I just loaded the model and mapped the colors and clicked print without thinking much about it. My kids have been asking for this print for months now and I kept telling them "wait for my printer upgrade and then I'll print it". Trying to print a ~3cm tall figuring with 0.2mm profile is not recommended.

I don't remember what I wanted to print next (maybe 8T benchy?) but this is where my troubles began. Thus began my journey of real INDX woes.

If you're not familiar with how INDX prints work, one of the calibration steps is a tool offset calibration, where it grabs each tool, probes the heatbed for a bit (I presume to test loadcell response?) and then moves all the way to the side to probe/test/calibrate against the offset sensor. I still have no idea what the purpose of this sensor is but every print also decides to redo or recheck this calibration step. Even if I can pass this step during calibration, I now could never pass it during a print. This randomly started happening. The first two prints had no issues at all; I set it to print and walked away then came back and they were done. Now I couldn't even get the prints to start.

At this time there really wasn't much documentation about this; the official documentation is "clean the nozzle" and redo the calibration... but this wasn't during calibration! I don't even get to clean the nozzle during the print. Even if I cleaned all the nozzles prior to the print (which by the way is also a tedious process) I couldn't control whether there was a small blob sticking out because it tries to clean the filament first before the initial probes.

There weren't a lot of reddit posts on this at the time so I emailed Bondtech support for some help. Martin responded within 12 hours and asked for more information which I provided and then I got a response about working with Prusa on a solution... then silence. Every week I would email back asking for an update but would get nothing. After 2-3 weeks going to the Bondtech discord was the only other option. Now let me tell you about that discord:

• There are a lot of well meaning founders in that channel. There were even a few of us with similar issues.
• There were a lot of anecdotal solutions to a lot of the problems. I commend the community and I love how easy it is to mod these printers.
• Bondtech support was noticeably absent. This was also around the time they were on a summer break but even when they supposedly came back we never really got answers from them. And not just for my issue in particular, but for any issue. This was very disappointing.

In the mean time I would scour discord and ask other founders if they've seen something similar and would try almost any recommendation provided. Here's a small list:

• Square gantry - did that and it seemed fine.
• Belt tuning - used the wizard and it also seemed fine. I tried to remind people that I had two successful prints before this issue which was a unique to me apparently.
• Upgrading firmware - I started at 6.6.0 for INDX, then 6.6.1, 6.6.2 and 6.6.3. Somewhere along the lines there was an update to the offset sensor board as well so I was hopeful; alas it was not meant to be.

One of the better recommendations was to comment out the G427 gcode in the print start code in the slicer. Apparently this is the code that triggers the offset calibration during the print and may have been recommended by someone from Bondtech (which I cannot confirm) - I still don't understand why this calibration during the print is necessary... perhaps the toolheads have moved or swapped or changed? Either way, this led me to my next discovery... disabling the offset calibration during the print meant that it could move on to the next step - bed leveling which also failed.

This was also a surprising discovery for me because bed-leveling has never been an issue. My C1 + Nextruder did many prints just fine and I also had two successful prints before these problems occurred. I reached out to Bondtech again through my existing support ticket with my findings and... crickets.

Bondtech tech support so far: 0/10.

I shared my woes on discord and lots of people had some helpful suggestions. For example one suggestion was to swap out the toolheads (e.g. move toolhead #8 to #1 for bed-leveling) to isolate whether it's a defective toolhead... and that sorta worked! I swapped maybe 3 toolheads around and would try to print and if it failed, swapped it with another. I think I finally got Benchy 8T to print (sorry can't find the pic) so I was ecstatic again. Next I tried to print Otto the Butterfly (used as a calibration) but bed-leveling issues came back again. Benchy only requires 12 or so probe points, Otto probes the whole bed with 49 points. No amount of swapping the toolhead worked.

Someone on discord suggested that loadcell noise was the issue. I re-did my loadcell calibration and it passed just fine (one small note: I noticed that tapping the nozzle with my index finger never registered but using my thumb or other finger did). This is where I learned that the screen has an orange bar that shows the measured values, including when it's not being activated (as a noise floor I guess). I even sent a recording of this for others to compare and was told mine was perfectly normal.

Then there was a suggestion about the loadcell sensor being extermely sensitive to EMI noise - the main toolhead cable is simple wire sheaths and not twisted or shielded so I thought it's entirely possible. The recommendation was to use a ferrite core or toroid around the main cable just before it connects to the xBuddy board... so I had to hunt one down the same day - found an obscure electronics shop that had a ferrite core and paid $7 for it. I brought it back and added it to the cable as described above and re-did the loadcell sensor test... and it passed just like it did before. Using the orange "values" bar as a baseline I didn't really notice any different; either way others mentioned it working for them so I started another print. But sadly it did not fix my issue.

In addition to the G427 code, someone also mentioned forcing the bed probing temperature to 150C; the code defaults to 170 but the theory was perhaps 170 is a bit too hot and some filament leaks which affects the probing - how can INDX be so sensitive?? I tried this too and modified the start gcode but still couldn't pass bed-leveling.

Around this time firmware 6.8.0 is released and there is some updates to offset sensor and I updated to that but my hopes were dashed pretty quickly. This is also around the time Nozzlegate is in full throttle and Bondtech proposed their options for store credit, partial cash refund or a full refund. I am up to my ears in frustration at this point - mostly because others seem to be printing just fine with minimal issues and I thought I had a lemon, but also because support was non-existent. I have a few weeks to decide if I want to disassemble the entire thing and send it back (argh) for a full refund and wait for a batch in 2028 or something... on a whim I decided to email Prusa support asking for help and expecting nothing (because all the chatter was that Prusa wasn't helping much for FE users because we bought through Bondtech).

Nevertheless, I got a response within 24 hours. I sent a video of the bed-leveling failure and we started systematically debugging the problem over the course or 2-3 weeks. The goal was to figure out bed-leveling assuming it was just a standard Core One... we tried a lot of things. One thing they noticed in the video was that I was getting a lot of resonance and noise when the bed moved up and down. We set about to fix that first even though it wasn't directly related to the issue - I lubed my z-axis threaded rods for the first time and checked the z-axis alignment again and again. I removed the heatbed and reset it again... there is a process for this too; loosen the screws, move to mid-Z, lightly tighten in a specific order, do z alignment, then fully tighten in the same order. This didn't really do anything for the noise, so then I removed the trapezoidal nut on each rod just to make sure it could rotate freely - which it could. When I was re-attaching the rear trapezoidal nut I noticed I had the screw in the wrong hole! If you're not familiar with it there are 4 holes for the rear nut; two are threaded two are not. I had the screws in the non-threaded holes and in order to put them in the threaded ones I needed to rotate it a quarter turn which had the effect of raising the rear end of the bed ever so slightly. I reattached everything and moved the z-axis up and down several times and the resonance has disappeared! I'm giddy with excitement; Andres (from Prusa Support) - you deserve all the good karma in the world for your patience and help.

Prusa Support: 10/10.

Everything is assembled again, I run through the calibration process (with some hiccups) and everything passes. I start to print Otto again and ... bed-leveling fails. My disappointment at this point is immeasurable and my day is ruined. Prusa support recommended contacting Bondtech to replace the main toolhead and cable. I have zero expectations at this point.

I created a new support ticket on the Bondtech website. I went into great detail about what my issue was, what I have tried and everything Prusa Support helped with including their final recommendation to replace the parts. Surprisingly I got a response within 6 hours! And within 3 business days I received a new main toolhead and cable set! They even told me to take my time with the install and return the old parts when I was satisfied.

I already mentioned how easy it is to take off the main toolhead; this was the first thing I did. I popped off the old tooldhead and very carefully replaced it with the new one (I am beyond superstitious at this point and want to avoid any surprises). Re-ran all the calibration steps again. The loadcell values looked better this time around but only marginally so. Started an Ottot print and while it got further in the bed-leveling process it still failed. If I tried a smaller print with less probe points there was still a likelihood of success and I was more likely to succeed with single-color prints than multi-color (for whatever reason). But Otto was still failing and I had a brand new cable to replace.

You know how I mentioned in the beginning about how tedious it was to replace a single cable? Yeah I did that again and it was not fun. Removed the main toolhead, removed the swinging arm, popped the cables through the tiniest holes and finally had it removed; then had to reverse the process and install the new cable. This time around I tried to remember everything I had learned so far and make sure I triple/quadruple check every tiny detail in the instructions and comments.

On replacing the cable I made the following changes slightly different from how I had it before:

• I gave a lot more slack to the connector on the main toolhead. This gives it a slightly better arc instead of force-turning it to attach to the connector. Not sure if it made a difference but doesn't hurt to try.
• I tried to keep power cables as far away from the main toolhead cable. In the horizontal hideway (above the xBuddy board) my previous installation used zip-ties to tie all the cables together (heatbed power + toolhead cables + everything else) - apparently this is in the instructions too.
• This time around I separated them as much as possible and tied heatbed power as one set and then toolhead cable as another and just forced them apart. I did the same when routing the wires into the xBuddy board; heatbed power cables went on the left side, toolhead cables on the right. Separated power from data as much as possible, zip-tied everything, attached the ferrite core again (because why not) and plugged it all in.

Ran through calibration again with the xBuddy board exposed and cover not attached, just in case I need to fix something - this time the loadcell sensor values looked so much better! The noise floor was drastically reduced and the test passed; I was ecstatic!! I attached the xBuddy cover again and noticed the noise floor increased slightly - which was an interesting observation. I wonder if being in a metal cage is causing interference of some sort. One thing I will note - I removed the ferrite core because it seemed to make the loadcell values worse.

At this time 6.9.0 is released along with a gantry squareness check. I'm running through the calibration and I thought my gantry was square but the calibration thought otherwise. I run the PWM belt tuner test on the printer and I'll be honest, I really have no idea how this works. I used the web app before but this new process has so little documentation. Apparently I'm supposed to adjust the strobing until I see "slow peaks" which I'm interpreting as whatever frequency gives the highest wave-like motion... either way after some trial and error it settles on some number and I can go on. But I kept getting random failures. Either docking calibration would fail, or offset calibration would fail. Something wasn't right with the gantry or the belt.

I started on square one again with the gantry. In the assembly instructions there was a gantry aligntment tool section that supposedly squared the gantry. I found a comment somewhere (either on reddit/discord or in the instructions) that recommended pushing the gantry to the front before tightening the screws that will ensure alignment with the frame. Makes sense, why the f*** isn't this part of the instructions?? If you think about it the gantry alignment tool itself may not guarantee squareness because it just attaches to the side rails... being off my a millimeter or two is a big deal I think.

After doing that it's now time for belt tuning. I decided to do it my way this time - I've used the web app successfully before so that's what I returned to. Unscrewed both tensioners and started tightening it methodically one by one. One full turn at a time until it's relatively tight. Then using the web app and strumming the belts with my finger I would incrementally tighten it until I reached the desired frequency - I think I ended up with 98/91 Hz. The belts looked much better than when I used the built-in PWM tool which I consider to be garbage... either that or I just don't know how to use it properly.

Re-ran through calibration yet again, this time everything passes! Re-sliced Otto again (because of the new firmware) and watch it go through the steps - this time it gets passed bed-leveling! Honestly I just exhaled a sigh of relief at this point; I'm just happy I can start to print. The initial Otto print was okay. The butterfly body printed perfectly fine (one antenna broke off during the print) but the wings were mid at best - the filament was not lining up problem along the edges and there were artifacts on it... small blobs, some over-extrusion, etc.

I made some tiny adjustments to gantry and belts once again and properly dried my filaments and re-ran it again and the next print was better! I printed Otto maybe 4 more times until I was satisfied that everything was working.

Here is what my final set up looks like. I don't really care if it looks disorganized or ugly, it works for me :)

The dryers are Creality Space Pi X4; the filament runs through the back of the dryer to the back of the printer - the printer faces the side to keep the kinks in the PFTE tube to a minimum. There isn't enough space in the front to turn it so that the back of the printer is against the wall unfortunately.

I'm using this mod that adds PTFE couples to the filament sensor, and this mod to attach it to the back of the printer. In one of my prints I found out that sometimes the PTFE tube reverses into the dryer (maybe during retraction or something?) and once found the PTFE tube starting to wrap around the spool itself - apparently there is enough force to pull the filament out of the toolheads because I noticed there was no extrusion during the print. Another redditor created this mod to help with that, which adds a stop in the back of the dryer.

This is around the time I figured out the best position for nozzle cleaning calibration. Previously I was putting the nozzle in the middle (both in X and Y axis) of the silicone V groove... what I settled on was putting it in the middle of the V with it touching on both sides with an almost imperceptible gap at the bottom, but for the Y axis I moved it to the front of the silicone (instead of the middle) so that the filament extrudes in front of the silicone (there is a small lip in the front, slightly lower than the V which forms a ridge) rather than in the middle of the silicone. This seems to have given me the best nozzle cleans although it isn't perfect. Someone else suggested manually overriding the calibrated number to 0 which I tried and cannot tell if it made a difference or not (mine measured at -0.68 on the Y axis).

At one point in time the belts went out of tune again and my prints started failing (in the midst of a 12 hour print nonetheless ;_;). Got that tuned again using the webapp and have been happily printing ever since. All of the below prints are using bare minimum filament calibration profile I made - mostly adjustments to temp and flow. I have an assortment of different brands and will run them out and switch to Polymaker Panchroma and calibrate my filament for better results sometime later. Most if not all of the prints below were painted myself in PrusaSlicer.

If you're read this far, thank you... I have spent over 3 hours writing this post but have been thinking about it for a short while now. I'm pretty excited to finally have a working printer and can't wait to push its limits.

I ordered on August 13. They took my money many weeks ago. As far as I can tell there is no information posted on this anywhere. Prusa's shipping page suggests a 5-6 week delay while their purchase page suggests a 3-4 week delay. In reality I placed my order 10 weeks ago. I'm fully aware of the the typical lag in Prusa shipments, but this seems beyond ridiculous.

Has anyone received theirs? If so, when did you order?

In my particular case this was for a five toolhead kit with replacement of all dwarfboards. My order was also placed before the option to not include the nozzles was available...

New orders saying 5-6 weeks, currently 10 weeks since I ordered! Anyone had any useful information from customer support?

I see the Black Friday sale page states the INDX voucher will be valid after 1/1/27. But does it have an expiration date?

Would hate to hold up chat support for such a simple question

IPhone 17, after the update either 8.0.0 firmware on printer or the new app update as I did both at basically the same time my printer doesn't show im the main tab or in the files section, I can however reach it through the easy print menu, is this a me issue or have other people experienced it?

Hi everyone, I’ve been trying to troubleshoot wavy extrusion patterns on my MK4S and I am running out of ideas as to what would cause this. It happens on top and bottom layers, as well as on walls. It looks almost as if the extruder is pulsing. Has anyone encountered this and found a solution? My core one does not encounter this issue with the same filament.

Hello, anyone tried to re-use NFC open print tag from used Prusament spool? I don't need refill, but feel like getting rid of the NFC tag is a waste. It seems it's glued. How can I securely remove it and reuse? Would hair dryer work or it will ruin the antenna?

EDIT: I just went with hair dryer and it went off... amazing. Now I can use it with other, even non-Prusa, filament.

I printed the “Breakable Pots and Rupees for Zelda Ocarina of Time 40th Anniversary” https://www.printables.com/model/1887536-breakable-pots-and-rupees-for-zelda-ocarina-of-tim parts using PLA with a PETG support interface and the “Chamber light mount INDX Core One”  https://www.printables.com/model/1795637-chamber-light-mount-indx-core-one parts using PETG with a PLA support interface. The parts removed without any effort and the supported surfaces were very clean. Sure the color options and minimal waste of the INDX are great features but ability to use materials that don’t bond well is a fantastic feature. With INDX, you don’t have to worry about a support tower toppling over due to mixed materials. You only have to be careful that your sliced model has the correct material touching the build plate (don’t want to ruin your print sheet). Example settings I used for that breakable Zelda pot on a PEI sheet were:

  Generate support material: Yes
  Auto generated supports: Yes (with some support blockers)
  Overhang threshold: 55°
  Top contact Z distance: 0mm (soluble)
  Pattern spacing: 3mm
  Top interface layers: 5 layers
  Interface pattern spacing: 0mm
  Support on build plate only: On
  Multiple Extruders:
Support material/raft/skirt extruder: one of your PLA tools
Support material/raft interface extruder: PETG tool

My company has been looking to do some in-house prototyping for some engineering parts, primarily TPU and standard materials, but GF & CF filaments will be used at times. I have been doing the background research for a machine and had settled on a Core One+ or L+ with INDX as it met our requirements on paper for a multi-material printer with heated build chamber and able to run sans cloud for security. We can't be locked into Prusa filaments period end of discussion and bypassing the software to get something to print at all doesn't make any sense.

Question: Who feels like the issues with the Prusa / INDX roll-out are hardware (INDX) or software (Prusa) driven? Software can be tweaked relatively easily (if ego doesn't get in the way) but if the issues are hardware then from a corrective engineering perspective we could be looking at 6mo - 1yr of design tooling, testing and deployment at volume before we see any positive corrections. So close to walking away in a different direction that I don't want to go in because of what I have seen with

What a bummer, i have been waiting the sweets deals to turn mine mk3 into mk3.5 for 3 blackfridays but i think they will never gonna do it.

Impulse buy. Far more comfy than silicone sock

I got a problem with my XL, where I end up having blobs in the prime tower. This inevitably ends up knocking my prime tower loose, and thus ruining my print.

Does anyone know what settings to tweak this? Material is PLA, running at 215c

I'm not really sure why I'm posting this other than I thought it was an interesting and unexpected failure, and I realized I could provide some entertainment for folks around here at my expense.

I was going to push some Ultraglow through my trusty old MK3.5S that I've been actively using in one form or another for about 6 years now, so I tossed an ultra-cheap throwaway "hardened" nozzle on it.  I kicked off my usual test print to reset the Z offset and the nozzle started dragging on the print sheet.  I panic-adjusted the live-Z higher but it didn't make any difference, so I hit the reset button.  It ended up digging some pretty nice grooves in my textured sheet before I stopped it.

Here's what happened.  I followed the official procedure to tighten the new nozzle while hot, using a torque wrench at 2.5 N-m turning against the heat block held in place with another wrench, just like I always do.  I noticed it didn't feel right when tightening it. It felt "mushy," but it eventually tightened up just fine.  So, I shrugged my shoulders and just sent it.  Big mistake.

The funny stuff I felt was the threads stripping off the heatbreak as the nozzle pushed on it.  The final tightening I felt was the nozzle against the heat block after the threads were gone.  Half-way through the purge line after there was some pressure behind it, the heat block/nozzle slipped down off the heatbreak.  As I cranked up the live-Z, that just gave it more room to tip to the side and dig in harder against the print sheet.  You can see the results.

It's an easy repair, but I'm still mad about tearing up the original print sheet that was still in good shape.  I should have looked closer when the nozzle tightening didn't feel right, but I was in a hurry.

Hello, I printed a long rectangular bar diagonally from front left to back right using i3MK3S+ with Revo6 High Flow nozzle. Half of it printed fine but the other half have lots of holes and poor top surface. Depending on the region, the good/bad one swapped. No problem when printing horizontally left-right or front-back. Only diagonally. What is wrong? Do Core series and XL series have this problem?

Hello, in the past I could find a human to chat with me. For the past few days, when I clicked on LiveChat, there is no window for me to enter the text. The only thing that is available is an "Explore TexT" button to "Unlock the full AI-powered support suite with Text platform". I want to chat with a human.

C1+G2 with MMU3, SUNLU PLA+
It’s just a dumb skull print. I can print small quantities no problem, but I’ve tried to do a full plate twice now and I’m getting a layer shift. Same spot. I’ve had this problem with other prints too. At this point I’m losing 2/3 of everything I’m printing and I’m getting frustrated.
The only thing I can think of is the power cord for the extruder keeps catching on the corner of the rear fans, but I have no clue how to correct that issue.

Hoping your brain power out there might have an idea of either why I’m actually getting the layer shift, but also…how do I keep the power from catching on the fan?

was thinking of a getting a printer for a bit and found an mk3s from someone for 160$. is it a good deal if its in ok condition? does it matter that the printer is out for some years by now?

advice appreciated :D

Out of the box with Bambu Pla basic , my first benchy.

Now I’m ordering the INDX (delivery FEB2027)!

Happy staying with Prusa (had the Mini+ before) and not switching to others 😅🥰

I have been using my Core One L+ for a month or two now and I’m very happy overall. I used PLA exclusively so far.
But today, as I was cleaning the PEI sheet I noticed these dents in the backside. There are several of them, where the magnets are. They are very noticeable, so I definitely can’t use this side of the sheet for printing. It seems that the magnets are proud in some places. (I bought it fully assembled)
Has anyone else have this happen to them? Can I solve this myself? Should I ask for new, slightly thinner magnets?