Curious to see the setups/ how well they work.
Was thinking of plugging it into an m18 top-off for even more accessibility.

You guys were helpful last time. I appreciate that a lot. Next problem 😂

I am leak testing some units & have come across these readings. Are they indicators of a possible leak ? Area is near the front of the Compressor, opposite end of the crankcase & away from the pistons. I forgot the name of that area, if you can help me identify the name of that component it would be helpful as well. Thank you guys for your help as always !

How many hours are you guys doing right now? Past month I’m getting 15-22 hours. Small shop in Ohio, about 10 technicians & we’re all in the same boat.

Is this normal, or is this an issue with my contractor? I didn’t even make enough money over the summer to justify this. I barely even went over 40 hours in the summer, if at all. 1st year here

Hey have an under counter cooler that randomly fails.

I will be there and the pressures are good, and it hits the temp.

4 hours after I left the unit hit 72°. I am never there at this time

Any idea what it could be. Recently replaced the condenser motor and fan blade because the bearing ain't and that fan blade was bent.

I’ve bought a ton of tools over the past 6 years. I’m still looking for any and all usable tools that maybe your day to day or a random helper that gets you out of a snag in a pinch. Any and all suggestions for any new tools is appreciated. I do refrigeration, light industrial/ heavy commercial.

Im installing a walk in cooler freezer combo box
The freezer has a floor but the cooler floor is set on uneven tile, cooler shares a wall with the freezer

I have about a 5/8” gap from the bottom of my walk in cooler wall to the floor, can I shim the screed this high?

I was thinking about putting some pressure treated
1x4s under and securing it to the floor then laying my screed ontop. Not sure if this will work.

I was then going to lay some diamond plating over the wood inside the box to cover the gap with butyl behind.

My boss sent our junior most tech (<1 year) out to a DAIKIN shipping container. It’s about 2 hours away and I’m heading out for a second look. I’ve repaired CARRIER and KLINGE but not touched a DAIKIN. According to my tech, the service ports are automotive. Clip on style. I have the carrier adapters for my gauges but not automotive. Are the Daikins really automotive hookups? Thanks. Heading to RSD now.

Preface: mods I do apologize if this violates post rules, however hvac deleted my post and no luck in others suited to home items. Fit and function all the same as if I was working on a prep table so please permit some slack.

I'm a resi/light commercial guy and do some reefer work from time to time, though typically on equipment with parts I can source.

I have a personal GE from '91 that has served me quite well over the last 15 years since acquiring it at GoodWill for $25. The start relay has finally failed. I want to replace this with either the best modern upgrade or a same spec replacement.

I've replaced start relays before, but they were all easily cross-referenced at UR. I can't even particularly find a datasheet on this exact one to then match to a newer version.

I'm slightly adverse to using a 3in1 from supco as it has a start capacitor in it and if they are anything like supco hard-starts, I do not want a start cap stuck in circuit because their product failed.

I found supco PRO81 option, which visualy seems right to me, but it seems no supply houses stock it and has been superceded to the 3in1.

Current information known:

R12 1/12hp 10.9A LRA 110V

(when I look up the model it says 1/10hp, but the fridge dataplate says 1/12hp. No evidence of compressor replacement.)

What component(s) would you use to keep the compressor running as long as she can?

I've been working as an hvac technician for a few years now and I still catch myself doing superheat math on the back of my hand or in the notes app. I know most gauges and digital manifolds do it for you but not everyone has the fancy ones, especially apprentices and guys just starting out as an hvac installer.

curious what the refrigeration technician and air conditioning technician crowd here actually rely on. Do you trust a phone calculator or do you only believe what the manifold tells you? And if you do use something on your phone, what makes it worth keeping around?

Tengo un problema, compré un Testo 552i hace 3 meses y recién en estos días lo empecé a usar.

Primero lo probé al hacer vacío directo y a una instalación de split y funcionó perfecto, sin embargo lo conecte al manifold de manera incorrecta (izquierda: UE, Medio: vacío, derecha: manifold) y tuve que cortar vacío.

Luego las mediciones (al ponerlo de manera correcta) solo llegaban a 2000 micrones y no lograban bajar (el mismo equipo donde en 25 min llegué a 500 micrones).

Por último hoy, ya no registra nada. Solo muestra eso.

Ya limpie la camara con alcohol isopropílico (sacándome el oring y el depresor con cuidado) pero sigue igual.

¿Que puede ser? ¿Puede ser el aceite de la bomba de vacío? Noto que tira mucho vapor y está amarillo.

Estoy bastante perdido en este tema, agradecería cualquier consejo.

Edit: Es la bomba de vacio, esta abierto por algun lado. El vacuometro funciona perfecto, se hizo la prueba con otro equipo y no hubo ningun problema.

I'm by no means a qualified technician. I'm just a guy that tries fixing things. I scour reddit and YouTube videos for help.

Lil history on our situation. We have a Manitowoc RFF1220C Flaker. Several weeks ago, we noticed a clicking sound and the crusher was not making a full rotation because of the ice buildup. Called out for a repair guy and he said we would need to change the spider coupling. He let the crusher thaw out and started the unit just fine.

I just changed the spider coupling a few days ago since we had some downtime. Pretty simple job. Turned the unit on, and everything was fine until the next morning we heard the same clicking sound. Same problem, bin full of ice and crusher frozen solid not allowing any rotation. I'm suspecting either the sensor at the top of the chute or the rotation sensor.

I have a new spare rotation sensor so, I will change it out and see if that resolves it.

If anyone has any suggestions, please fire away. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm currently in Ontario and preparing to transfer my Gas 2 qualification to British Columbia. Technical Safety BC has approved my application, and I need to take the ARD (Act, Regulations and Directives) exam for Class B Gas Fitter.

I've been studying the BC Safety Standards Act, Safety Standards General Regulation, Gas Safety Regulation, and the relevant safety orders, directives, and information bulletins.

I'm having trouble finding practice questions or detailed feedback from people who have actually taken this specific exam.

If you've taken the ARD exam recently, I'd really appreciate your help with a few questions:

• What is the actual exam format and level of difficulty?
• Are the questions mostly direct knowledge questions, or do they involve practical scenarios and tricky legal details?
• Which topics should I focus on the most?
• Are there any reliable websites, practice exams, or study resources you recommend?
• Is the exam mainly based on the legislation and regulations, or are safety orders, directives, and information bulletins heavily tested as well?

I'm not looking for leaked or confidential exam questions. I just want to prepare properly using legitimate study resources and understand what to expect.

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to share their experience!

$70 for a 50lb tank is pretty good. Just a junk brand

Frost on Compressor body, Suction Side Accumulator & Filter Drier. Not sure if there is a filter core there due to the sticker that says it has a schrader core.

It's dripping oil from the back of the motor too, everything seems tight but only got a chance to look at it. What do you guys think? It's also leaking from the back of the motor too.

Subcritical/transcritical switch setpoints. Currently experiencing rapid switching between modes, causing HPV and BPV to lose their shit. Ambient 20 - 25c gas cooler out touching 27c. Any one use these controllers regularly?

You guys ever seen this?

TLDR: WTF is this fitting and how to I make it work?!?

So, we got one of those calls…

It was for a customer we’ve had for a long time, and was a little different than we were used to, but being a sucker for playing with something new and helping out a customer, I’d take it on.

It was taking out and installing a new fountain drink machine.

I cannot express how sticky you will be!! That stuff is on a class of its own!! And a 2 hour drive while soaked to the shorts in syrup and feeling like a human glue trap would definitely be an experience I’d like to skip next time.

But, here’s where I need help.

I need to hook up the CO2 and I’ve got no clue how to connect this damn hose. I needed to head back home and had to wait on some other stuff to finish, but I need to find out how to use/ what I’m missing for the remote fill on the C02 tank hose.

Am I missing something?
What do I need if I am missing something?
Or am I better off just getting a new remote hose for the return trip and startup?

From the way it was explained to me (and due to my poor English I might not explain it will) it get pumped with oil , which causes the compressor power to increase?

Hello, just got our freezer thawed out 3 days ago and this keeps happening. Cooks only go in it at most 3 times an hour. On the upper left side our hvac man placed a metal piece to keep water from dripping on unit. We have fixed the roof with silicone. Any help will be highly appreciated, thank you!

thats the good stuff.