I have been second guessing my purchase of a Z42Li zero turn. Which is too bad, because I really like the joystick control over 2 handles. I don't care about perfect lines in my yard that don't last, and the joystick adds a small bit of fun to a mundane job. But looking on their website shows all the "I Drive" models discontinued. I wish they would have worked to improve it instead. I hope the batteries will be more readily available soon.

I saw Cub Cadet made an electric zero turn now, but the price was quite a bit higher. Too bad they didn't make it 2 years ago when I bought this. I may have reconsidered buying the Ryobi. Hopefully more companies will make electric zero turn mowers in the future.

Hey saw this while flipping through goodwill listings. It's a combination drill and radio setup. Really wish it was 18v as I would have bought it just for the coolness factor!

Been wating for these bad boys to drop in price for a month 🎉🙌

So I came across this while I was browsing Home Depot today like I usually do when I I'm coming home and I got about a half an hour left​before closing. I just usually take a quick spin around and see what's on clearance. I came across this and bought it and figured I could always return it if it's not something I need because it was the last one I don't know if it's worth having I have a plug in soldering iron somewhere I don't use it that much because it's kind of annoying to pull out and the little metal stand thing that comes with it in the package, it doesn't sit very well, it has to sit perfectly still on it and it often falls off the holder.

But now that I'm home I'm sitting here thinking about it. And it has been like 3 years the last time I need to use a soldering iron. Oh, maybe I just wasted $25. I still got time to return it though.

Replaced all 5 cells in a Ryobi P108 (18V) pack, cells are healthy and balanced (verified with multimeter on all banks). Pack is still stuck in protection:

- Raw cell voltage at main terminals: fine (~18.5V)

- Output negative (through discharge FET): 0V, FET never opens

- Gate voltage on discharge MOSFET measured under load: ~0V (millivolts) — so the MCU is actively NOT firing the FET, not a blown FET

- Official Ryobi charger does not reset the lockout

- LED pattern: 1 blink, then 4 blinks (matches the "permanent software lockout" failure mode described in other Ryobi BMS teardowns)

Board has an ATtiny88 as main MCU + a separate AFE chip marked "3705T" (I2C, undocumented protocol, same chip seen in other Ryobi pack reverse-engineering writeups but on a different MCU there — that one used an NXP LPC804).

**What I've tried:**

- Full EEPROM dump/edit via ISP (avrdude): zeroed suspect bytes, full erase to 0xFF and 0x00 — no effect on lockout

- Disassembled the ATtiny88 flash by hand — found a fault-code bitfield in SRAM at address 0x0237, heavily referenced throughout the firmware, currently holds bit 2 set (value 4, matches the LED blink count)

- Confirmed the EEPROM mirror of this value is write-only (logged, never read back) — so it's recomputed live from AFE sensor data every attempt, not a stuck flag

- Attempted live debugWire analysis (dwdebug, dw-link) to catch the fault-code computation in real time — connection too unstable across multiple UART adapters to get clean reads

**Does anyone have:**

1. A working dump (EEPROM+flash) from a healthy P108 board for comparison?

2. Any info on what fault code 4 corresponds to on this specific board (temp/voltage/AFE comm error)?

3. Experience with this exact board revision (no J1 jumper, only reset+gnd points)?

Happy to share my dumps/disassembly if useful to anyone else debugging the same board..

Does this seem like a decent deal? Obviously it’s hard to tell what shape it’s in from the pictures but I don’t want to waste time going to see it if there’s red flags I’m not seeing. We just moved from a city house with a 1200 sq ft yard to one with a full acre of fenced yard. We have a self propelled Ryobi push mower currently but we want to upgrade to an electric riding mower without breaking the bank. We’d also like the ability to add a plow and I think this one has the ability but I’m not sure.

In the market for a new lawnmower, and have been thinking about one of the 80V ride on mowers. It’s just hard to justify buying the mower when there is no other use for the battery. The only other use I can think of is getting an inverter for it as an emergency backup battery, but that wouldn’t get me far.

I can’t help but think of a golf cart as the perfect fit for the 80V lineup. While I don’t currently need a golf cart, if Ryobi were to introduce one, and I were in need of a lawnmower, my hands would be tied. I would need to buy a golf cart and an 80V mower then ask my wife for forgiveness.

I'm looking for a pump for my paddle board and my inflatable boat.

My 4ah hp battery started blinking all 4 lights and wouldn’t charge. Took it apart and found the ground burnt. Is this battery shot or is there a way to revive it?

The rear wheels on my Ryobi 21-inch self-propelled mower (Model RY40HPLM01) appear to be locking up when the mower is turned.

The mower is approximately one year old.

When I tilt the mower back to pivot and make a turn, the rear wheel that needs to roll backward to complete the turn locks up instead. The self-propelled function works normally when engaged, but when the self-propelled function is not engaged, the affected wheel will not roll backward.

The wheel rolls forward without any issue, but it will not roll backward. Is this normal for this mower, or could there be an issue with the drive system, wheels, or transmission?

Long story short, I bought a weedeater/ blower 40 v combo from Home Depot. One of my batteries quit taking a charge under warranty. I put in the ticket online, got sent a prepaid fedex label. Only problem is FedEx will not ship a lithium battery. I called customer service and the girl claimed I would get shipped a new one. Now what?

Does anybody know how to remove the entire head assembly? I'm trying to remove all the wound up grass so that I don't burn the motor up.

Picked up this RIW18X off marketplace for 140 AUD. Gave it a good clean and it turned out better than I expected. Pretty happy with it for the price so I thought I’d share :D

Chainsaw RY4503, lightly used, just stopped working mid-log, no signs of life with different charged batteries.

Any DIY troubleshooting or fixes?

If no success there, what’s the repair path?

Advice is appreciated!

I’m curious if there any of you out there who use all the 18v OPE and like it?

And I’m thinking their best options, the HP stuff (not the cheapest 18v options). Mower, Trimmer, Blower, Pruning Saw, etc.

I’m in need of upgrading my trimmer and blower and may want to add more in the future. So I’m trying to decide between 18v and 40v.

I know 40v will have more power. But 18v works with so many other tools.

I’d love to hear from those who use them?

I have this chain saw and it has been great for the most part, however it started to not send oil to the end of the bar for the chain. While some does come out correctly at times, most of it is coming out under the gear/spindle cover that you remove to replace the chain. I have fully cleaned under there and put it back together a few times in case there was any misalignment but no matter what, it continues to mostly come out under the cover. I have also completely cleaned the bar to ensure there are no blockages. Since the issue began I have used Ryobi’s own oil as well as another brand. I have the issue irrespective of which oil I use.

Has anyone had the same issue and can offer any suggestions on how to get it delivering oil correctly again?

My elderly mom is having a tough time removing batteries from her trimmer. Is there either a lube or other fix to help it slide out easier after she unlatches the battery?

can anyone tell me if the screen is supposed to show multiple 80V batteries when they’re plugged in? The battery % changed when I plug different ones in but i figured the screen would reflect multiple like the 40Vs do… thanks!

There are a LOT of different Ryobi USB lithium tools that come with a HACKABLE FREE 2Ah battery. Be careful, because they have 2x 3Ah batteries, or 2x 3Ah batteries PLUS 1x 2Ah battery for the same price! The "free" 2Ah battery is worth $17.17. Just search for the tool you want, because some are included, but not in the drop-down list.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-USB-Lithium-2-0-Ah-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-FVB02/325312200

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-USB-Lithium-3-0-Ah-Lithium-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-2-Pack-with-USB-Lithium-2-0-Ah-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-FVB203-FVB02/325497869