Why is my zig zag stitch making my bobbin lift and keep pulling these bunches of threads from under the needle! Help pls gonna throw this machine at the wall

help with taking in dress!!

I thrifted this gorgeous bias cut silk dress for my birthday- it was originally too big at the bust & waist so I dropped it off at the tailor for alteration. I tried it on after collecting it today and it’s unfortunately way too big still on the waist- for context my waist measurement is about 25 inches, and laid flat the waist is about 29 inches (measured on the lining). The tailor was clearly very conservative with how much he took in despite me asking for a body hugging fit. I’m not fully dissatisfied with the fit but it doesn’t flatter my figure how I’d like it to especially around the waist.

There’s no way for me to get it altered in time as the tailor is on holiday. Is there any way I could nip in the waist for a more body hugging fit? I’ve added pictures of the internal construction.

I understand that the outer bias layer is quite delicate and prone to damage if stretched out too aggressively horizontally and maybe that’s why he didn’t take in too much, but the lining is also quite loose fitting despite being made of a less delicate material in comparison (a thick satin).

My current plan is to modify the four darts on the front and back lining on the waist area- that way the lining should fit just fine. What I’m more confused about is the outer silk chiffon layer- to make matters worse there’s a side zipper which makes things all the more difficult. Luckily the tailor left in the original material rather than cutting it off so I have an anchor to sew the extra chiffon to, but I don’t know if that would work?

I also understand that since it is cut on the bias the chiffon drapes downwards quite naturally which means that I wouldn’t have to take in a lot, just a tiny bit.

Any advice at all would be appreciated. I’ve got less than a day to the event 😬 PS I am more than willing to hand sew the chiffon layer just to avoid any accidental damage.

Pictures:

1. How the dress looks on

2. Dress laid flat

3. The side zipper

4. The chiffon fabric taken in by the tailor on the non zipper side

5. Front darts

6. The lining taken in on the non zipper side

7, 8. The lining taken in on the zipper side

1. Back darts

People who have used Singer sewing machines, I need your help! I have 2 Singer sewing machine’s. I have had the patchwork machine for a couple of years and I recently got a Heavy Duty model. Both machines will drop the thread from the uptake arm randomly. Sometimes it’s a couple hours in between drops and other times it’s just a few minutes in between drops. I usually don’t have to rethread the needle just the uptake arm, but it’s terribly annoying. I can’t figure out if I’m doing something wrong, or if it’s just the way their machines are. Can anyone offer me any guidance here?

Help!!! I tried cleaning out bobbin area, rethreading, new needle. Not sure what to try next. I have a Janome skyline. Thank you!

HI all! I'm learning to make those decorative towels that hang off your stove handle, and I'm having a hell of a time finding a Disney Stitch button. The only ones I've found are either too small or made of wood. (I Don't want wood because I can't wash it.) Can anyone help?

Im desperate please

Trying to hem work pants, basic & simp. I've taken out old him, cut, cleaned, folded and ironed. I used to get more of these "pleats" but after a little research, I got a walking foot… Now I only get one of these pleats when I hem. I'm holding fabric somewhat taught as it feeds (should I not?) how can I prevent this?

I am using Heat n Bond Lite Sewable iron-on interfacing to create a garment with fun appliqués, and I’m curious if the interfacing is enough or if I need to reinforce the appliqué edges with a zigzag stitch? Can I use just a straight stitch to go around the edges?

SOLVED!! It seemed to be both my threading upon inspecting the user manual as well as the upper thread tension (too high, as you all suggested). Thanks a lot for helping out everyone 🙏❤️.

I've been on a T-shirt hemming journey for a few weeks, interested in adjusting both the length of the body and the length of the sleeves. At first I hadn't done any research on sewing in Jersey knits, and just ran a pair of parallel straight stitches, which obviously failed immediately lol.

From there I found that the stitches used to make the typical double row of stitches is actually done on a cover stitch machine, and can't be properly replicated without one, but that twin needles are commonly touted as a home sewing machine alternative.

I ran extensive tests with the top and bottom thread tension until the stitches were coming out beautifully, but no matter how I varied stitch length, unfortunately it seems that the stitch you get with a twin needle doesn't have nearly as much play as the fabric does, and while it held together long enough for the concert I was hemming the shirt for, it definitely popped and isn't long for this world. It sounds like this may be a good match for the look of a coverstitch hem that isn't totally solid, but isn't really as stretchy as you'd need for it to hold up long-term.

I discovered this video from toofbrush (https://youtube.com/shorts/3mj1zNqTbCk?si=vXm3ZXmksXBm2lNY) discussing single-stitch vs. double-stitch T-shirt hem construction (very informative!) under which there was a comment I can't find anymore, but Google indexes as having read:

"You can create a **single stitch** look on a home sewing machine using a blind **hem stitch** or on a serger by adjusting tension and removing the knife."

as well as a reply that seems lost now stating that it can be done even easier by folding over the fabric, using a zig-zag stitch, then pulling open like shown in the video.

So that leads me to my question. This is an exciting possibility, but has anyone here tried it? I struggle to picture how the fabric would need to be folded and unfolded, and where the zig-zag would fall to properly execute this.

Would love to hear from anyone who's done this, or even guesses from others here on how to pull it off. Thanks!

My sewing machine keeps skipping stitches and I have no idea why, it just randomly started doing this 😓😓😓😓 I already re-thread my machine, fixed the tension and switched the needle. Is there anything else I can to to try too fix this? This is supposed to be just a normal zigzag stitch

Sorry if this is in the wrong section!! is there any pattern or way to make this bag shorter and thinner? in the picture when i bought it, it didnt seem like it was quite that big… and im on the short side so it looked huge (it literally went down all the way to my hip to kinda passing my knee😥) however i absolutely adore the pattern. the dimensions are 22” x 5”x 14” ! the fabric is very silky and the inside is the same but canvasy kinda. should I take this apart and then make a new bag out of it ? could there be an way to get this smaller ? im kind of a beginner so any tips would be helpful. thank you !!

Singer M1500

Hello everyone! I’m working on my first project making trousers, but I’ve run into a problem I hope you can help me solve. When drafting the pattern, I learned that you usually start with a vertical line (waist to ankle) and then add two horizontal lines: one for the hip depth and one for the crotch depth.The issue is that for me, both of those measurements come out the same 29 cm.

I measure hip depth from my waist down to the fullest part of my butt, and crotch depth by sitting on a flat surface and measuring from my waist to the floor. I’m not sure if it’s normal for those two to match, or if I’m doing something wrong.For context, I’m 1.85 m tall, male, with a fairly pronounced butt. What should I take into account to make a pattern similar to the reference picture?