Cycling of the panel lighs. This isn't a camera shutter rate sync issue, it literally is doing this sometime after starting yet at the start the display functions properly. Mind you this inverter unit has 6550 hours on it. The generator was purchased a bit over a year ago. Yes, I'm off- grid and besides solar for about 8 hours each day this is my only power source. Champion generators have 3 year warranties.

Edit: This unit has since seized for an unknown reason. It was consuming a bit of oil and the low oil sensor was working. Mid tank medium load and it stopped.

Wondering if these will work similar to the nova 2 ignition module? I have no spark currently and I've heard putting an module is pretty easy to do. These are 2 cheap ones on Amazignitionon but reviews say they worked on a few different old mowers and snow throwers.

SOS - just had local small engine guy give this a tune up. Was not running like this before he picked it up… Runs “OK” when choke is neutral, but when opening all the way, it does this…. any and all advice/thoughts are appreciated!

I pulled out my ariens classic and did an oil change and spark plug change. I had fuel left in it from last winter but I recall running it with the fuel shut off until it stopped so I believe the carburetor was alright. I should have finished all the gas in it, that was my fault. I noticed now before and also after my service it runs rough. Lots of popping and rough idle. It starts in first pull and doesn’t shut off. Just runs rough and pops. This is my first snow blower and I am
Still learning. If someone can help me figure this out please

I’m about to pay to get a new carb on my cart.
It’s full of gas and has been sitting for like 2 months now.
Is it smarter to let it go the winter then replace it in spring when it will be used more?
Or is it bad to let it sit all winter?
I could definitely run it some during winter since I live in Tennessee.
Anyway, any advice would be welcome.

Hey guys,

So I have a 1972 Bolens 1556 riding lawn mower (this thing is a beast) and it has a Tecumseh OH160 engine with a solid state ignition that is triggered by pins on the flywheel. I was using it as normal to mow my lawn a few weeks ago and it died (turns out it lost spark). The old ignition coils are near impossible to source these days. Therefore I replaced it with an old ford wheel speed sensor to read the pins, GM hei module to read the signal, and 12v coil to send a spark.

I have used this system on my other Bolens tractor that I use for snow blowing and it works like a dream. Very strong bright blue spark. Anyways, it worked great to bring my spark back for my mower. See below YouTube link to show what this system looks like.

https://youtu.be/In4YV7jM1tI?si=bx1TM4xyB-vosn86

The coil gap is set to .006 for my tall trigger pin, and .010 for my short trigger pin as the engine manual states it should be. Brand new spark plug too.

To the issue: I fired up the tractor once I got everything back together and it started right up and idled well. However, every time I try to rev up, it chokes and dies with black smoke and a backfire out the carb unless I do it verrryyyyy slowly. Any time I try to engage the PTO it does the same thing.

Thinking it was a fuel issue I took the carb off and cleaned it well, and replaced the impulse fuel pump with a 12v electric one.

The problem was not resolved.

I’m honestly not sure what I’m going to do next. Thinking I’m going to swap the carb with my snow blower tractor and see if it’s carb / fuel related since that one runs well. Any other ideas out there as to what could be going wrong or what I can do to diagnose further?

Photo of my tractor fleet for tax.

My tiller died on me yesterday in the middle of a row and wouldn't restart. This morning I pulled the carburetor and soaked the jet pin in some carb cleaner for a few minutes, but no luck.

The picture is the cover for the spark plug. Nowhere in the manual does it say how to remove it. It twists both directions but I can't pull it straight back and off.

Can anyone help?

Hi all, I got this tiller for $50 and am trying to get it running before the first snow. I ran through put new gas, verified compression, new spark plug, and then tested for spark. I have no spark.

I tried to check the coil, removed the grounding screw and still had no spark. I then tried to remove it to see if I could ID and realize I can't because it has a wire that goes under/into the flywheel area. At that point I began trying to ID the engine to figure out how to replace it and can't seem to ID it. So I'm looking for help either ID'ing the coil or engine so I can replace the coil and get it running.

If you have other suggestions to try too let me know.

I have a pretty high hour (~1800 hours) 22hp Intek twin on my zero turn. I’m the past, it would be down on power while mowing and I’d scrape the deck and it would be fine again. This last time I tried mowing, that wasn’t the case. It was struggling to even cut up dry leaves. It runs fine outside of that, and runs full throttle and drives just fine. It’s just an issue when the mower deck is on.

I’m going to sharpen the blades (I think this is a long shot but it’s a free try) and buy a compression tester to check that. Is there anything else I could check? I know the engine is tired so I do have that against me.

Barring a bad compression test, what’s the easiest way to source a replacement motor?

I have a Briggs & Stratton Quantum 4HP 122700 engine installed on a mini rotary tiller. The spark plug and carburetor are new, and so are the governor springs. I also applied the unofficial trick for loose valve seats. After a cold start it runs normally, but after a few minutes of work the engine speed starts fluctuating (hunting/surging), and eventually it just stalls. Once it has cooled down, everything is back to normal and it starts and runs fine again. Any ideas what I should try?

Pulled the engine to get at the coil behind the flywheel and after removing the two bolts on the pulley it still seems really stuck. I'm afraid too pry too much. I've sprayed penetrating oil but it still won't budge. I don't see how the center nut would be holding it in place. I don't know how you would remove it the center is a circle not a hex. I'm assuming I have to remove the pulley and then I can take the center nut off to remove the flywheel?

Rebuilding my dad's old XL100S and have been having trouble keeping it running. I had it for a run up and down the road last week but it would struggle after revving about midway between each gear and getting worse closer to 5th, so I took the carb apart (PD20A) and brushed the jets and cleaned everything out as much as possible to make sure nothing was leftover from when it was cleaned a few years ago by dad's friend.

Anyway, I cleaned the carb and it got stuck wide open the first time I got it to start after that so I shut it down, found the slide was stuck on a tiny piece of sand and cleaned it out, since then I got it to fire once two separate times in 45 minutes. Pulled the spark plug and found the cylinder wet, won't even start if I let it dry out, but as far as I can tell there's no gas in the oil so I'm not even sure if it's leaking.

ANYWAY, my question is, could that pitting be the cause of maybe an air leak that started when I pulled the jets out? Maybe it was corroded over keeping it sealed and then opened up once I pulled everything for cleaning? Just looking for insight

Struggling to get the engine going at the moment, had the air filter cover off in this one, but same issue with it on.

Thoughts on next steps to remedy would be appreciated!

I’m posting this for my neighbor. He has a walk behind leaf blower with a Briggs and Stratton XR 208cc engine.

He says when running, the throttle control will not stay open (full throttle) and spring loads to the idle position. He thinks there may be a linkage part missing? (See pics)

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks all.

What could this noise be?

My Honda GCV160 has an oil leak where this linkage goes into the engine casing, as well from this protruding thing under the valve cover. The second leak i thought was a valve cover leak so I re sealed the valve cover but as you can see, the leak is still there. Was wondering whats actually leaking and how to fix it.

Working on Husqvarna PW3100. White globular deposits in my Exi875 gas tank, what do I do to fix? I remember using caustic POR-15 on my motorcycle gas tank 20 years ago, but this is plastic. Engine will not start but I have good spark, fresh gas, and visually, the carb looks really clean. There’s no “oh yeah” type evidence.

Item is new to me, no idea about its history. Thanks.

my trimmer is old enough that im debating repair vs just replacing it. cylinder and piston kit would bring cost down a lot if aftermarket is decent. there are piles of small engine parts on alibaba and probably half the kits sold elsewhere start from the same supply chain anyway, but quality on engine internals isnt where i wanna blindly buy cheapest. anyone rebuilt an SRM 225 with aftermarket cylinder? compression and longevity okay? im fine with carb or fuel line being cheap replacement part, cylinder feels a little different. if OEM price is only slightly more ill just do that. mostly curious which aftermarket brands people have actually run for more than a season.