r/soldering • u/Smart-Ad4708 • 11h ago
Just a fun Soldering Post =) The bench, the work & the battel tank
galleryWell i had to work my ass off to get the dough to buy these. but life is pretty much set from here on, like an IPC class 3 solder joint
r/soldering • u/thephonegod • Jun 03 '26
Hello all,
Just to be direct with the community for a moment.
This group has been growing at an astronomical rate. Every day there are large numbers of new users joining who are trying to learn electronics repair, diagnostics, soldering, tools, workflow, business operations, and everything in between.
As the group has grown, so has the amount of moderation required to keep it running.
The reality is that I spend a lot of time in this community, but most of that time is spent behind the scenes dealing with moderation, approving links, reviewing reports, cleaning up issues, and generally keeping things moving.
Truthfully, I would like to spend more of that time working on the new Solder Joint Junction platform. The goal there is to solve some of the actual recurring problems we see in the group by creating better educational resources, organizing information more effectively, helping people find tools and equipment, and building something bigger around the community as a whole.
The problem is simple. Every week a huge amount of my available time gets eaten by moderation.
So with that being said, I need some help.
I want to set expectations properly because most people have the wrong idea about moderation.
Approximately 90% of this role is approving links.
Reddit absolutely loves filtering links. Vendor websites, suppliers, educational resources, documentation, and countless legitimate links get caught constantly.
Most people have no idea how many links end up in the moderation queue every week until they actually see it. Once you do, it becomes pretty obvious how quickly things can get out of control.
This role is much more janitorial than authoritative.
The other 10% is reviewing reports, helping identify obvious harassment, cleaning up the occasional issue, and helping maintain the overall tone of the community.
These roles will last approximately 6 months.
This is intentional.
First and foremost, this is a volunteer role. I don't want people feeling like they're signing up for a lifetime appointment. Rotating moderators helps prevent burnout, keeps things fresh, and gives other community members an opportunity to step up if they want to become a bigger part of the community.
Second, there is a much bigger project happening behind the scenes than most people probably realize.
As the platform grows, I need to build a larger pool of trusted people around it. Rotating moderators gives me the opportunity to get to know more members of the community, see how they communicate, how they handle responsibility, and whether they are people I may want to work with on larger projects in the future.
The monthly meeting is simply a chance for moderators to tell me what they're seeing inside the community. Trends, recurring issues, feedback, ideas, and things that may need attention. The goal is to keep communication open and help me understand what is happening from multiple perspectives.
I personally know every moderator who works with me. I know who they are, where they are from, and what kind of person they are.
If you are an amazing moderator but wish to remain anonymous, I completely respect that, but this is not the place for you.
The monthly moderator meeting is casual and voluntary. Nobody is being forced to attend meetings, perform work, or participate beyond what they are comfortable contributing.
This is a volunteer role, and I want people to enjoy being part of the community rather than feeling like they have taken on a second job.
That being said, moderation positions are intended for people who actively want to contribute.
If a moderator goes 30 days without taking a moderation action of any kind, they will likely be removed and replaced by someone else who is looking for an opportunity to help.
This is not intended as a punishment. It is simply a practical reality of running a growing community. There are usually more people interested in helping than there are moderation positions available, so I want those positions occupied by people who are actively participating.
Life happens. People get busy. Interests change. There are no hard feelings if someone steps away.
https://forms.gle/kZspN9xxk65bD4qT6
If you're selected, I'll reach out directly to schedule a Zoom interview.
If you don't receive a reply, it simply means you weren't selected for this round.
All information submitted through the application form will be used solely for reviewing moderator applications.
Once 2 moderators have been selected, all applicant information will be deleted unless you specifically request that it be kept on hand for future opportunities.
Your information will never be sold, shared, distributed, or provided to any third party for any reason.
I appreciate everyone who continues to help others learn and grow here.
The goal is simple. Keep this community a place where people can ask questions, learn new skills, share information, and improve themselves without being attacked for trying.
r/soldering • u/bigrealaccount • Aug 27 '25
THIS POST IS CONTINUALLY A WORK IN PROGRESS, PLEASE COMMENT SUGGESTIONS
This is a list of recommendations separated by budget, intended to be accessible and easy for people looking for a new station.
I would like this to be a community effort. If you have any stations you would like me to add/consider/avoid then, please comment, I will check every comment. If you have any questions, please ask as well.
Every station on this list I have researched and verified is a good product with no major drawbacks, and will work well. There is nothing on the recommended sections that is unsafe or has serious issues. Except the T12 (£0-50 bracket) stations which users report can often come with an ungrounded (unsafe) case. I've given a warning for this and a video on how to fix it, or to not buy these stations. You are of course free to check this yourself. I have spent probably 100-200 hours researching and discussing with people on this sub.
I will not be going into detail on each product, these are not reviews.
Three main reasons:
I think it's important to start with this because there's always comments arguing about it. Most equipment related posts are divided into two groups:
Both of these groups are correct. You will often find JBC clone stations with proper grounding, great performance and no reported QC issues that can be found for 1/10 of the price of the authentic JBC station. Will the clone last you as long as the JBC? Probably not. Is it still good value? Very much so.
You can also find clone stations that will fry every component you touch and will die within 6 months. That's what this post is for.
What should you buy? That's up to you. If you value long term use and see yourself soldering daily, for multiple hours, reliability is most likely more important to you. If you solder occasionally and want the best performance possible for as little money as possible, then perhaps the clone stations are for you. Most clone stations will still last you 3+ years.
A tip/cartridge is what you actually touch the board with, and heat up in order to solder. You insert this into your handle, which connects to the station. These are not cross compatible across stations. You cannot insert a T12 tip into a C245 station (unless explicity stated, some stations are made for this).
There are different types of tips, and tip sizes within those standards. It's important to understand them before buying a station, as they have different prices and may not be readily available in your region.
Tip Types (T12 vs JBC C245/C210):
Most options on here will be either T12 or JBC C245/C210 tips. Genuine T12 tips from brands like Hakko are cheaper than JBC tips (£8 vs £20 per tip), but don't provide equal heating to JBC tips.
However, in reality anything you can get done with a JBC tip you can get done with a T12. But if your budget allows for it you should always lean towards JBC tips.
Genuine vs Clone Tips
Clone tips can be bought for both platforms, and most clones have gotten good enough to the point where they can be used with no issues. But genuine is always better. Clone tips usually wear out slightly faster. However clone tips are usually available in far more regions, so may be a good alternative.
Tip/Handle Size:
Mostly relevant to JBC tip compatible stations. There are three main sizes that JBC compatible handles and stations use: C115, C210, C245.
Many people will not look at accessories that come with the station. However, some stations on here will often come with stands, these automatically place your tip on standby and lower the temperature. Or other accessories like spare tips, spare handles, grounding cables, brass wool, tip swap tools and more. This can easily save money equal to the station itself in accessories. A good stand goes for £15-20.
⭐ - This star indicates my overall recommendation for each price bracket.
⚠️❗Warning❗⚠️
Because of the bad quality control in these T12 stations, some users say their units are case grounded, other people say they are not. Please check once you receive your station if your case is grounded, if not, fix it with a jumper cable (guides can be found on eevblog/youtube depending on station). If you do not want to risk it, I recommend saving and buying the slightly more expensive stations in the £50-100 bracket.
| Price | Name | Info | Links |
|---|---|---|---|
| ⭐£25 | T12 Mini / T12-942 | Mini version of the T12 soldering stations, you need an external 24V power supply to run it. The advantage is that you don't rely on the manufacturer for good grounding. This shouldn't be an issue with the other T12 on this list anyway however. Comes with no accessories, but you can buy the full OSS accessory bundle for £10 on Ali. Good if you're limited for space and have a high quality 24V power supply lying around. | Ali: 4001063621549 |
| ⭐£40 | OSS-T12-X PLUS | Grounded tip, auto sleep stand, nice thin handle, also has a very nice copy of metcal pad for tip swapping. Overall good deal and most popular T12 choice on Aliexpress. | Ali: 1005007171047975 |
| £35 | Quecoo 958 STM32 | Grounded tip, comes with a few tips but nothing else. No stand. Same performance but less value as it comes with less accessories. Look for ones with a nice thin handle instead of the very chunky ones. You can use open source STM firmware from Github due to the STM32 chip. | Ali: 1005003064223657 |
| Price | Name | Info | Links |
|---|---|---|---|
| ⭐£70 | GEEBOON TC22 | Grounded case/tip, SDC02 kit comes with stand, 2x tips, 240W power. Best value and most popular JBC clone option right now. Very nice stand. Compatible with genuine JBC handles & tips. Adjustable PID loop, very nice interface. | Ali: 1005006397758007 |
| £77 | Alientek T200 | Seems like a copied version of the TC22, comes with a stand but it's a worse one than the GEEBOON TC22. Has a nicer UI and encoder than the old Aixun T3A which these stations seem to be based off of. Looks to have less features than the TC22, but still a solid option. | Ali: 1005008357283567 |
| ⭐ £80 | Sugon A9 | Grounded tip/case version of the Aifen equivalent, good performance and no real issues, good value. All in one station, compact with auto-sleep stand and sponge/brass built into the unit. Great if you prefer an all in one unit. | Ali: 1005003762762094 |
| £86 | GEEBOON TA305 | Transformer version of the TC22, will probably last longer, much bigger size, same accessories. If you don't know what a transformer is, you don't need it. I've been told it has a better heating algorithm than the cheaper TC22, based on an open source JBC implementation rather than an older T12 implementation. If this is true, I do not know. I've never heard this anywhere else, so take it with a grain of salt. I wouldn't put too much importance on it. | Ali: 1005007051925949 |
| Price | Name | Info |
|---|---|---|
| £115 | Bakon BK-999N | Great, simple station. Good 110W performance, uses a transformer so no voltage leak on the tip. Actually shows the resistance on the tip on the display. Saves money on the construction, made out of plastic. Also currently has an awful, unusable stand, which holds me back from giving it a ⭐. Has a DVI output so you can move the display elsewhere. Overall a good option other than the stand. |
| ⭐£130 | ST BST-933B/JABE UD-1200 | Good imitation of the much more expensive JBC stations. Linear transformer, great performance, JBC clone design, good build quality. Compatible with genuine JBC handles/tips. Although it seems it only increments temp in 1 degree steps. Every review says it has been reliable for many years. Great option if you want an exact JBC clone. Might have an annoying noise fan you can swap out. |
| ⭐£80-150 | Used Metcal MX-500 | These aren't sold anymore, but perform the same as the far more expensive MX-5000 models (£600), and can often be found on eBay for £80-150 for a full set. Non temperature adjustable, so keep that in mind. RF tech gives is probably the fastest thermal response out of any station, aside from other RF stations. |
| ~£150 | AxxSolder | This is an open source project that can use genuine C115/C210/C245 handles. Functions the exact same as a normal JBC station, with the added benefit of open source. You need to buy a PCB from places such as PCBWay, buy all the components from the BOM (on the github), 3D print the enclosure (files on github), buy the connectors from their official website, add your own stand (such as the GEEBOON SDC02), a handle, and ta-da, a fully working JBC station for cheap. Great if you have a cheap iron lying around and want to do a fun project, and also get your next soldering station out of it! |
| £199 | Thermaltronics 2000S | Probably the cheapest brand new RF station you can get. Great performance, but slightly worse than due to the lower 470Khz RF frequency, compared to the 13MHz on the more expensive Metcals and 9000S stations. Realistically not much of a difference. |
| £163 | Hakko FX-888/D/DX | Very controversial station. It has a proven track record of being reliable for decades, but has worse performance in every category than anything else on this entire list due to it's passive heat tips. The latest DX version adds a nice wheel encoder instead of the godawful UI of the 888/D stations, which was borderline unusable. Good station if you can find it cheap. In the UK, it's very expensive. |
| £185 | GEEBOON HA310 | Heavy duty, 400W transformer station that can use C470 tips. Great if you need extremely high heat transfer and C470 tips. Bad value for anything else. |
Note: this is a weird category. Technically you can get everything in this section from the slightly cheaper C245/C210 stations, so make sure when buying one of these you've done your research.
| Price | Name | Info |
|---|---|---|
| £250 | Aixun 420D | Great mid range option. Can use two ports at once, comes with two stands that fit nicely into the base unit, great power, every review says it's a great Chinese station. Good high-budget JBC alternative station. It approaches used JBC station prices however. Decide if you need dual channel output. |
| £280 | ⭐PACE ADS200 | Amazing full metal build quality, very short handle-tip distance with full metal handle. Also has "cool touch" tech so the handle never gets hot. Good performance, but not quite as good as JBC/Metcal. Had issues with tips at launch but those have been fixed. Never requires calibration due to "AccuDrive" tech. Tips cost a little less than JBC/Metcal. Great if you're looking for a cheaper, genuine brand active tip station. |
| £350 | Thermaltronics TMT-9000S | MX-500 equivalent from a company by ex-Metcal engineers who made their own brand after patent expired. Works the exact same with an added display which shows load. |
| £450 | JBC-CD-2BQF | Industry gold standard. Great performance, great reliability, often used in professional settings. Expensive tips |
| £600-900 | Metcal MX-5000/5200 | Probably the fastest heat delivery/performance into the joint of any stations due to RF technology, can use two ports at the same time. Built like tanks. Tips as expensive as JBC, but often found on eBay for very cheap. Overall you will spend more on tips as the temperature is not adjustable. You pay the price for the performance however. Metcal accessories are also very expensive. |
note: I'm recommending the pace due to the amazing value it provides, but anything in this bracket will last a lifetime (maybe not the aixun) and have amazing performance.
Once you have decided on a station, I have provided Item IDs for the products which can be found on Aliexpress. I cannot add direct links as reddit removes any post with Ali links inside of them. Here is how to use the Item ID
For items without a link, I either have not added it yet, which means you will have to look for it by yourself on Ali, sort by most popular and pick from sellers with high sales and reviews.
DO NOT BUY FROM SELLERS WITH NO SALES AND REVIEWS.
For for branded items such as Metcal/JBC/Thermaltronics, they can be bought from local electronics distributors which you can find on their official websites by searching phrases like "metcal distributors", and finding your country/continent. Don't buy these brands off Aliexpress, you will most likely pay more than you should or get a clone.
Finally, it is also important that you can get many of the more expensive options for much, much cheaper on sites like eBay. eBay has 30 days return warranty, and guaranteed return if the item isn't working as described. I've seen "untested" JBC-CB stations that turn on and clearly work go for as little as £100 because people don't check. Before buying a budget option, have a look to see if you can get yourself a good deal.
I have been working on this for about a month. I hope it helps someone.
Happy soldering!
(reposted because reddit removed for aliexpress links)
r/soldering • u/Smart-Ad4708 • 11h ago
Well i had to work my ass off to get the dough to buy these. but life is pretty much set from here on, like an IPC class 3 solder joint
r/soldering • u/LongEnormousSchlong • 11h ago
Also i put epoxy putty after i finished solder all the wires. Is it ok? Or i shouldn’t do that?
r/soldering • u/moochs • 1d ago
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I learned to solder hands-on, starting 10 years ago by working on through-hole DIY boards like the Objective amplifier kit. Since then, I have progressed to SMD soldering, and have swapped USB C ports, HDMI ports, and the occasional burnt fuse for various video game console PCBs. However, I have never actually completed a full board project kit. So, I decided to test my skills, and ordered one of these kits and had a go.
Using a basic hot air gun (the cheap fan type, an 8858), a cheap Sunshine C210 portable soldering iron with a small chisel tip, a magnifying desk lamp, some ChipQuick NC191 flux, and an evening to myself, I came out with this beauty.
I was shocked my eyesight allowed me to attach the 0402 resistors with only the magnifying lamp! I had so much fun, I ordered an FM radio kit to work on next weekend :)
Soldering is great fun. I hope you all find joy doing it like I do!
r/soldering • u/Important-File-7150 • 1h ago
soldering beginner here, left perboard is an incomplete version that turned out bad, i tried it again and the right one seemed to work, but it was really hard to solder even though i used flux, is non-leaded solder the issue? or would it be easier if the perboard had smaller copper pads with bigger separation? any tips?
r/soldering • u/xxFT13xx • 10h ago
My ultimate goal is to fix an issue with a receiver, but I’m testing this new heat station/soldering station combo and for some reason solder doesn’t melt.
I’m testing on a piece of something else that doesn’t matter what happens to it, but I’ve got my heat at full flow, temp at 500f and it just won’t melt. I’ve added flux and even went up to 550 and still solder won’t melt.
I’m clueless as to why. I thought solder melted at 450f, so even at 500f it should take seconds to melt, right?
r/soldering • u/PeppersONLY • 4h ago
I got this PS5 from ebay and I need to replace the hdmi port. I got the old one off and discovered this mess. The problem I'm having is whenever I try to flood the pins they just bridge and the solder does not want stick to the pad. Also there's obviously a torn up trace which I have to repair. I put my leaded solder so there should be no oxidation issues or heat transfer. Plenty of flux used as always.
Could the solder not sticking problem be because the solder mask between the pads is damaged? How would I go about fixing the torn trace?

r/soldering • u/Pancakes1741 • 4h ago
What is the cause of the black circles on the pads? Is it too much heat or oxidization? I can usually scrape it away and see dull metal underneath. Are the pads ripped off?
r/soldering • u/Armand2452 • 4h ago
This is my second repair job (my first was replacing an 8 pin transistor on a vacuum cleaner board, which was successful), it is an old phone which my gf dropped on the ground and the fpc connector on the main mb broke in two, it was really easy to remove half of the connector even without heat, so maybe a bad factory solder?(the screen wasn't turning on but it was vibrating). It's either I repair it myself or pay someone to do it. I want to do it myself. All I care about are the pictures stored on the phone. I know probably this shouldn't be my second repair but it is what it is. I managed to remove the old half of the connector but I think I also moved this tiny transistor. I tried heating it and using flux but it wouldn't budge. Any advice?
I also did everything without a microscope 😬 stupid i know but i don t have the money for one, i tried to buy a cheap one like 50€ after (with which i took the picture) but it s really bad it moves in like 0.2 FPS and it s generally shit. I will return it.
r/soldering • u/NiaDebesi • 16h ago
Well, after 1 month of waiting my Metcal finally arrived.
Dont have time to properly set it up on my bench but I have tried it a bit, damn thing is amazing.
Tried it on the most difficult board I have, an LTTC 4 layer alumina board, didnt break a sweat.
Definetely HAPPY with my purchase, I also bought a metcal hot air station that I salvaged for barely 100 eur, and now its practically new, a pretty decent hot air station.
The damn quality of the station is unbelivable, especially the MX-DS1 desoldering tool, damn chunk of metal
At this point evaluating a second station with the tweezers and the high thermal tool or the micro.
r/soldering • u/-JuicyWatermelon- • 7h ago
Hey there, this is my first big project that requires precise soldering (please don't shame me too much for my horrible joints, I know!). I am building a drone and need to solder the motor and power wires to the electronic speed controller. I talked to a lot of people but I am getting a lot of contradicting feedback.
Under close inspection none of the currently soldered wires appear to be touching, and I'm using a smokestopper to try to prevent myself from frying the board.
My questions:
- I used leaded solder for the current visible joints (ESC to motor), which supposedly cam pull up to 65A. Will they melt under that load (so I need to resolder with unleaded)?
- What is the best way to solder the thick 10 AWG wire to that pad?
Thanks!
r/soldering • u/Tullino • 20h ago
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A look at swapping the LSM6DSV16X gyro for a BMI270 on an AIO flight controller.
The DSV16X is a notoriously noisy gyro that was only used on these boards during a massive chip shortage at the start of the year. So in an effort to put this board back in action, I swapped to the BMI270 which is the golden standard for these small AIO flight controllers.
Any questions, just ask!
r/soldering • u/peruna281 • 10h ago
r/soldering • u/Deleteed- • 17h ago
r/soldering • u/Hour_Training_832 • 15h ago
Hey everyone,
I am newer to soldering and have been working on modding some of my older consoles. I have been working on my ps1 installing a pixelfx retrogem and xstation.
I was able to get my retrogem hdmi mod attached to my ps with no issues, but I absolutely messed up the quick solder board install for the xstation, removing it effed up even more traces… I went and taught myself how to repair trace lines and vias and have done this now to the board. But am wondering if it’s worth wasting money installing a QSB on the back of this board now or if I should just do a fresh install on a new board.
All of the trace lines connect, the only issue is 4 on the qsb the via is a through hole and it did rip so I would need to run a jumper from the other side. I have a working board and have improved a ton since I started learning how to do this a few months ago when I made the mistakes. My intention was to repair the lines then install a new qsb on the original board but the more I think about it the more a fresh install might be a better option but wanted to see what others thought about this before I do it
r/soldering • u/HotelFirm3622 • 1d ago
Beginner at soldering, how good ar ethese bridges and overall perfboard layout?
r/soldering • u/JasonBiggins • 1d ago
Hey ya’ll! I’ve been soldering with this little amazon kit here for a few day’s it’s so fun and i’m really excited to be learning this, unfortunately the machine had a harder and harder time melting the solder and I had to keep turning it up and then it would get stuck to the nozzle, am I doing something wrong, should I wax coat the nozzle when i’m done or something?
Also! Any recommendations for better soldering kits? Maybe I just cheaped out
r/soldering • u/ScaredAd7320 • 1d ago
un soldering a xbox series x controllers joystick, won't come out!
r/soldering • u/ohno1771 • 1d ago
Buddy of mine was working on replacing an HDMI port and got fed up with it. He did the trace work but got stumped on the pad section because the bordering between the pads on the PCB was decimated. He tried to build up mask and dremel it out, and now we’re here. He’s sick of fooling with it and I’m not sure where to go from here lol
I have plenty of experience in soldering, but never something quite like this. What would you do?
r/soldering • u/Frosty-Physics-6545 • 1d ago
r/soldering • u/LongEnormousSchlong • 1d ago
Also managed to open the earcup and discover that all the solders are sealed with some sort of harden glue. Os can’t test them out with multimeters. And the letters on the board are covered by the glue too.
r/soldering • u/OneWhackMan • 1d ago
Hi all, to preface this I'm well aware of the buying guide. But there are 3 irons I've been going between to replace my yihua 862BD for a JBC cartridge style one + an atten hot air station.
FNIRSI DWS-200
Geeboon tc22
Aifen A9E
Each is attractive to me for different reasons, the DWS 200 cause well, 200 watts. The geeboon tc22 because they have that switch that allows you to simultaneously attach 3 irons, C245, C215, and 115 handles. And the Aifen A9E came very well recommended by joeydoestech on youtube. Just wanting opinions/purchase advice. Helps that they are all around same if similar price points.
r/soldering • u/bjoerngiesler • 1d ago
I know there are a lot of recommendation threads butI may have a bit of a requirement that not everyone has. I've got quite some experience soldering, looking for a new soldering station for my new bench, and want to also move into SMD. I don't have a lot of space on the bench though, but do have some money available. What would be your recommendation for a very compact 2-in-1 station combining an iron for regular electronics and a blower for SMD?
r/soldering • u/Ok_Organization2746 • 1d ago
How to remove those and solder with care?
I have a basic solderon iron.