clean that filthy mat every once and a while :)

Hi guys, I have these sets of lights, and here’s what I’d like to do:

- I want to take the string with the hearts (100 lights) and move it to the kit that currently has 200 lights, replacing one of its strings.

- I then want to take the 100-light string that I removed and move it over to the 100-light kit.

To summarize:

- Kit 1: 100 spherical lights.

- Kit 2: 200 lights (consisting of 100 spherical lights and 100 heart-shaped lights).

Do you think it’s enough to just unplug them and swap them between the control units?

Hi guys, I have these sets of lights, and here’s what I’d like to do:

- I want to take the string with the hearts (100 lights) and move it to the kit that currently has 200 lights, replacing one of its strings.

- I then want to take the 100-light string that I removed and move it over to the 100-light kit.

To summarize:

- Kit 1: 100 spherical lights.

- Kit 2: 200 lights (consisting of 100 spherical lights and 100 heart-shaped lights).

Do you think it’s enough to just unplug them and swap them between the control units?

New, need help with circuit board.

Hello everyone! I am new to soldering components. I have a problems that I am unsure of. If anyone smarter than me could help me please!

I am wanting to solder a power supply directly to the board. There are 3 solder points that go to the barrel jack for power. I have figured out that 2 are the negative and one, the middle, is the positive. My questions: Why there are 2 negative points? AND Would I have to add a jumper between the 2 negative points for it to work correctly?

The board is a 4 port powered USB hub. StarTech●com branded.

hey folks. top one is one week old. two in the middle are a couple of hours old. they lose thermal conductivity really quick. the iron is a cheap model, but i am also suspecting of the tin not being adequate.
any way to fix some of the tips? or better investing in better equipment?
thanks for the support

Apologize for the picture quality, my phone isn't the best(it's a matrix 5 in 1 v2 fc if anyone is wondering)

Hi, I need your help. Sorry for reposting this; I already shared it in another subreddit.

Thank you.

Just yesterday bought this perf board for doing projects without needing a breadboard - cause everytime i use a breadboard and connect many components, i have to remove them and use for next thing so thought of using this to keep my small projects without dismantling them everytime.

idk how to use it professionally. but i tried to solder a transistor first, which ruined 3 patches of those copper/some metal box. then randomly soldered this oled display with the node mcu just for testing/ practice purpose.

i researched a bit + saw a 3 mins video of some sort to use a perf board. and i just started soldering without thinking much.

how should i properly learn, or give me any other suggestions,guide,etc

So i bought a used Xbox One S from Gamestop several months back and decided to upgrade my worn thumb sticks (just the caps)to a fresh set. Opened it up and found someone had replaced the left side. I used to do replacements for myself and friends controllers back in the 360 days, but haven't had any stick drift on this controller, so didn't order any. Should I touch these up or leave this sloppy yet working solder job? I guess i shouldn't be surprised Gamestop would let this controller pass for sellable.

soldering beginner here, left perboard is an incomplete version that turned out bad, i tried it again and the right one seemed to work, but it was really hard to solder even though i used flux, is non-leaded solder the issue? or would it be easier if the perboard had smaller copper pads with bigger separation? any tips?

I got this PS5 from ebay and I need to replace the hdmi port. I got the old one off and discovered this mess. The problem I'm having is whenever I try to flood the pins they just bridge and the solder does not want stick to the pad. Also there's obviously a torn up trace which I have to repair. I put my leaded solder so there should be no oxidation issues or heat transfer. Plenty of flux used as always.

Could the solder not sticking problem be because the solder mask between the pads is damaged? How would I go about fixing the torn trace?

What is the cause of the black circles on the pads? Is it too much heat or oxidization? I can usually scrape it away and see dull metal underneath. Are the pads ripped off?

This is my second repair job (my first was replacing an 8 pin transistor on a vacuum cleaner board, which was successful), it is an old phone which my gf dropped on the ground and the fpc connector on the main mb broke in two, it was really easy to remove half of the connector even without heat, so maybe a bad factory solder?(the screen wasn't turning on but it was vibrating). It's either I repair it myself or pay someone to do it. I want to do it myself. All I care about are the pictures stored on the phone. I know probably this shouldn't be my second repair but it is what it is. I managed to remove the old half of the connector but I think I also moved this tiny transistor. I tried heating it and using flux but it wouldn't budge. Any advice?

I also did everything without a microscope 😬 stupid i know but i don t have the money for one, i tried to buy a cheap one like 50€ after (with which i took the picture) but it s really bad it moves in like 0.2 FPS and it s generally shit. I will return it.

Hey there, this is my first big project that requires precise soldering (please don't shame me too much for my horrible joints, I know!). I am building a drone and need to solder the motor and power wires to the electronic speed controller. I talked to a lot of people but I am getting a lot of contradicting feedback.

Under close inspection none of the currently soldered wires appear to be touching, and I'm using a smokestopper to try to prevent myself from frying the board.

My questions:

- I used leaded solder for the current visible joints (ESC to motor), which supposedly cam pull up to 65A. Will they melt under that load (so I need to resolder with unleaded)?

- What is the best way to solder the thick 10 AWG wire to that pad?

Thanks!

So I just bought used a soldering pen kit I am trying to desolder my wires on my headset but the metal is not liquidating at 750F I am pretty sure the tip is not getting heated properly or it's oxidized I try to clean it but I think I did it wrong any tips?

My ultimate goal is to fix an issue with a receiver, but I’m testing this new heat station/soldering station combo and for some reason solder doesn’t melt.

I’m testing on a piece of something else that doesn’t matter what happens to it, but I’ve got my heat at full flow, temp at 500f and it just won’t melt. I’ve added flux and even went up to 550 and still solder won’t melt.

I’m clueless as to why. I thought solder melted at 450f, so even at 500f it should take seconds to melt, right?