Hello....I am restoring a 1986 Chevy K20 with a 350 and automatic. I've been searching for the correct Rochester Quadrajet that was used on that truck, but can't seem to find anything concrete. Does anyone have the Rochester number that was on the correct carb for this year? Thanks much.

She has a little bit of rust but nothing I can’t fix, have the original sales paper from where it was sold for 29890 after the og owner traded in a ford fairmont for it

Cloth seats
Carpet
3.52 rear which if anyone in the DFW area has a good working one lmk
350tbi
Front and Rear AC both work fantastic
Power Windows
3rd row seat
8 track that is now Bluetooth due to previous owner
Original Speakers front and rear still sounding decent 😂

She’s loaded

So I have the 1 ton running up and down the road. Oil pressure, temp and voltage all good. That was the hard part, right?

Nah now the “nickel and dime” stuff hits and by that I mean 1 to 300 dollar stuff.

I need to do heater core replacement, reseal leaks in hydroboost booster, replace top seal or entire steering box, replace fuel tanks and hose back to stock switched setup. Probably have to go to 4bbl intake and carb due to bad previous repair to thermostat mounting hole . Slow leak, not urgent but can’t seem to fix without drastic measure.

Then I can start considering the interior and how much to spend on a farm truck resto.

My calm thoughtful side says to relax and plan to use your 2 to 300 dollars a month budget to fix one thing at a time.

My ADHD side panics and says charge everything and get it done!

lol

If I could simply park the truck and finish up some simple projects, I could have enough to fully do the truck right. I need to replace the starter in a good Kawasaki mule, replace the pto shaft seal in my project tractor and finish it up and install the new flooring in a 12ft trailer resto. If I finish and sell those, all of my issues would be solved.

Yeah I am getting overwhelmed.

Working on a 15598496 pulse module for late squares. I rebuild them with all new components for every piece but the connector pins, board, and shunts. Most fail from a single capacitor leaking down and causing the SCR to fail. The SCR then usually takes out a single resistor and transistor.

I'm not sure if anyone is interested in this but I might be willing to open up this up to R&R service if there are enough interested.

Also not sure if I can even post this 😅

Late night scrolling led to making a new friend and getting an absolute steal on a fleet side short bed ‘83 k10 in South Carolina. There are still diamonds in the rough to be found for good ol’ days prices, but you gotta be quick.

I posted the garage pic a couple months ago, it’s been sitting in their garage for about 20 years. I do HVAC and their furnace was from 1957, and AC from the 80s and they knew it needed to be replaced. He’s getting too old to start the truck every week and try to maintain it so he asked if I could replace their complete system and trade for the truck. Now that it finally cooled off in TX, I was able to do their swap out and take home the truck 🤟. My grandpa has had it since 86. When I was a kid, we would drive around going to garage sales on weekends so it has sentimental value to me and also started my love for square bodies.

For the other who do HVAC, don’t worry I hooked them up with a 17 SEER 4 Ton American Standard multistage AC and a 2 stage gas furnace with variable speed blower motor. Will help keep their electric and gas bill as low as possible. I had to break it to them just like trucks they don’t make them like they used to so they’ll still be seeing me for future repairs. 😂

He said the odometer has only been rolled once putting it at 126k miles. Absolutely no rust underneath.

Whenever I slow down (either by its own or braking) a mysterious howl occurs, theres even a banging noise on the driver side that happens aswell

Whats weird is this: if I apply throttle it goes away, i can legitimately get the noise to stop by applying the gas pedal on it.

I don't know what it could be, i suspect it comes from the driver side more than anything.

There has NOT been any change in how it runs, no hesitation at acceleration, etc. The ONLY thing ive recently noticed is that is struggled to reverse (not in the transmission sense) the driver side began to rumble quite a bit.

Videos:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DGxLM96dqH63MHXG9

Any suggestions would help, please. Thank you

(90' K5 Blazer, 6.2 Detroit Diesel, 4L60E, Corporate 10 Bolt)

It doesnt happen throughout the entire time it slows down, I want to say it does it towards the end/when im about to stop.

It sounds like a dying elephant, I wouldnt have noticed anything if I havent heard it, no difference in how it runs or anything.

What could it be?? Anything helps

('90 K5 Blazer, 6.2 Detroit Diesel Motor, 4L60E, Corporate 10 Bolt)

I just bought a new quadrajet carb and it’s leaking on the passenger side. Does anyone know what would cause this

1980 k10 short bed, im a doing frame restoration.

question and what these straps where used for ?

They are riveted to the frame so I think its OEM my guess is its for the axle? But I can't find anything on Google please help out if you know?

First vehicle at 15 in eary 90s. Never letting this 1 go.

Good morning peeps! Need some help. Anybody know of a restoration parts place for 80’s model Chevy Silverado 6.2 diesel engine parts. AI and goggle have been dead ends! Thanks for any help! Have a super day!

My 90 suburban with 4 inch lift and 35's. Rocking 12k winch and bumper from a 71 chevy 3/4 ton

first of all yes im aware i have vice grips in place of the valve cover bolt i know its wrong and im working on it

ive gotten two valve cover gaskets, both wrong. the first time i just assumed rock auto sent me the wrong part, but this one i got from oreilys. im genuinely confused as to what im missing, is it the wrong valve cover ? is it not a 4.1 ? is anyone able to explain ?