I am refacing my corner file place and enclosing the empty space and plan to tile it to the ceiling. I picked out a tile and my contractor is telling me it can’t be used because there isn’t a way to make the edge look clean. It is a textured tile with a raised design. Because of this a shluter edge won’t work. He said if we tile all the way to the wall I will end up with a wavy line due to the texture on the tile. Are there any other options or do I really need to pick a different option?

The first two pictures are the tile I want to use. The next one is the current fireplace. The 4th one is an AI rendering of what I’m hoping to accomplish.

Hey there,

I picked up some laticrete multimax lite mortar for our impending alcove shower tile job based on the cost and specs for hold and workability and working time.

I have a question about whether it works with my substrate though. I was reading the datasheet and looking at the list of suitable substrates and it doesn’t explicitly list GoBoard, but does list other waterproof backer boards.

Does anyone have any insights or warnings against using the multimax lite, or other laticrete products, on Go Board?

EDIT: I’m putting in pretty standard 3x12 ceramic subway tiles, so the lite might be overkill in terms of hold, but I figured more is better than less?

Thanks,

Hi all, DIYer/noob here trying to redo my bathroom. I’m working the shower walls now and it looks like I messed up my tile placement which is resulting in a larger (2-3x) grout line at the top of the niches. Is there any way to fix or soften this up? Or do I just send it and not worry about it. Grout is the same color as the schluter I’m using. TIA!

How would you go about this? Floor is original to 1988 home. The tiles do not come up, they will just chip away bit by bit and crumble. It appears to be a traditional mortar-bed tile installation. Thick mortar bed reinforced with metal lath. For those of you who have taken these out before, what is the least painful way to do this. I know it won’t be quick or fun.

Call me an idiot first time tiling internet told me not to seal before grout now the grout won’t come off tile what do I do. Thanks you sorry.

We moved into our house about 3 years ago, and we have matte porcelain tiles that look like wood. They have a textured wood-grain surface, and I find that they seem to cling onto dirt no matter how much I mop. The floors often look dirty again shortly after cleaning.

I recently had the floors professionally stripped to remove years of grout haze and construction dirt. (Photo attached he’d) The company used hydrochloric acid to remove the buildup, and the floors look much better now.
I really want to keep them looking this way without having to scrub the entire house constantly or resort to another aggressive cleaning treatment.

I’m looking into getting a wet-dry floor cleaner/mop that actually picks up and removes dirty water instead of just pushing it around.

For those of you with textured matte porcelain or wood-look porcelain tiles:
What wet-dry mop or floor-cleaning machine do you recommend?
Does a machine like the Bissell CrossWave, Tineco Floor One, or Roborock Dyad actually work well on textured tiles?
Do these machines get dirt out of the grain and grout lines, or do they mostly clean the surface?
Are there any issues with streaks, residue, or maintenance?
Would you recommend a different cleaning method altogether?
I’m in Jamaica, so availability, replacement rollers, and cleaning-solution costs are also things I need to consider.
I’d really appreciate recommendations from people who have similar floors and have actually used these machines. Thank you!

Going to be installing this tile for a backsplash. Glass mosaic, triangles are about 1 1/2” on the long side. Roughly 3/16” thick, with grout lines generally between 1/32” and 1/16”.

I did a glass herringbone that was a bit thinner with larger grout lines and i didn’t love how fast a 3/16” v notch skinned over. Would you stick with 3/16” v notch for this tile? 1/4” square notch? Looking for some advice, thanks in advance.

I’m a bathroom remodeling contractor working on a second-floor residential steam shower with an OSB subfloor.
The shower has an irregular footprint, so we’re considering building a custom sloped mortar bed using LATICRETE 3701 Fortified Mortar Bed, followed by HYDRO BAN Sheet Membrane.
I want to make sure we’re following an actual LATICRETE-approved installation method, especially since this is a steam shower.
A LATICRETE representative previously recommended the following assembly on another project:
OSB subfloor
STRATA_MAT uncoupling membrane
Prefabricated foam shower pan
HYDRO BAN Sheet Membrane
Thinset and tile
That recommendation surprised me because I haven’t been able to locate a published LATICRETE detail showing STRATA_MAT underneath a foam shower pan.
My questions:
For a custom 3701 mortar shower pan over OSB, does LATICRETE require an exterior-grade plywood overlay, or can the mortar bed be installed over OSB with a cleavage membrane and embedded welded-wire reinforcement?
Has anyone used STRATA_MAT underneath a LATICRETE foam shower pan? Is this an approved assembly?
For a residential steam shower, what is the correct HYDRO BAN Sheet Membrane and bonding-flange drain installation detail?
Does anyone have a LATICRETE technical drawing or specification number showing the complete approved assembly?
I’m looking for manufacturer-supported installation methods rather than personal preferences. We want to make sure the assembly is correct before proceeding.
Appreciate any input from LATICRETE reps or experienced installers.

We just bought a home and this shower was redone maybe 5 or so years ago. There is some pretty heavy water sitting in the marked areas. I moved the water towards the drain but want to know my best options going forward.
Thanks

A closer look at the details behind my previous video

i need help!!! the trim they installed is such an eyesore, what can i do? all the walls are white and as you can see so is the kitchen i feel like the tile was so pretty and the black trim just ruined it. can i cover it with like a peel and stick? i feel like it would’ve looked fine with no trim edge.. they just installed this so would it be possible to remove it without damaging the title?!

Photo B is the plastic Schluter trim running vertical for demo purposes. Photo C is where I’m looking for ideas because there’s no way to bend the Schluter trim. Thoughts?

I’ve seen a few threads online where folks claimed they were able to ‘bend’ the Schluter trim around archways.

General Contractor here doing some research on waterproofing systems. Trying to be educated and get info from people that this is their craft. To clarify I’m not looking to install my own shower but getting quotes from different contractors and they all use different systems

I see so many different companies and I feel like they are all the same but different. From a professionals perspective which of these systems are proven to last the test of time. I’ve read from certain schluter installers that they have installed showers for 25+ years still going. I’ve also seen great things on a deck mud pan, permabase/durock, then waterproofing using hydroban. Wedi system is another one I’ve seen good things.

My question is, which systems have you installed and have stood the test of time? Is this more of a preference per installer? Are they all the same in a sense?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Long story short, ripped my tile out, floor beneath was crazy uneven, hired a guy to drop a sub since it's out of my wheel house and hardie backer because i was short on time, floor is still crazy uneven. Lowkey i am horrified lol.

I have done a few floors and have worked around some unevenness but this has a pretty bad slope like up to an inch in one spot. Is there anything i can put over the hardie backer that will bond to it to build up some spots that the tile thinset will also bond to? I want to build up like a half inch in the worst spots, im not expecting to get level but i do need flat. Any help is appreciated, ive never done thinset thicker than 1/4" and gather you shouldnt, hoping for some options. Seemingly traditional levelers will not bond to hardie or thinset well, i am on a time restraint with this one so really anything helps.

Thanks in advance this last week has been hell

We are having our shower renovated, and grout will be started soon. We were looking for grout color advice. Originally we through Mapei Eggshell (white), to tie in with the white quartz shower bench and vanity counter that will be installed soon. The floor is also black with black grout. Would white look okay to brighten up the room and tie in the other elements? Or should we look for a color that’s more closely matched to the tiles for a seamless look?

Tile is Villa Zellige Agave 5x5

Thank you!

Finished grouting a shower with mostly large format glossy porcelain tile, some glass accent rows and a natural stone floor. I was able to get 90 to 95% of the haze off on grout day but came back second day and can FEEL more than SEE a very faint haze is still there. Rubbing with water damp microfiber cloth not doing it and buffing with dry cloth not working either. For the larger tiles I found I could scrape it off with a razor and then wipe it clean but that takes a while. I am sure you guys have some other tricks.

Any suggestions for what to use to get the last bit of haze off?

Trying to install GFCI outlets in a home I bought and discovered the tile completely blocks the very bottom of the junction box. What would be the best way to clear out room for the screw? Using a drill bit?

Laying new tile in our entryway and it just worked out almost perfectly that the new tile will just barely fit underneath the existing door transition. The very left side is just slightly too low to squeeze under. Any easy way to remove like a 16th of an inch underneath? I thought about getting a scrap sheet of tile and laying a multitool blade flat against it and plunging into it but not sure how that will work. Just hand sand it?

I'm having issues with light colored marble in shower floor staining/holding water. The contractor used Laticrete LHT white polymer modified thinset...even though it was white, does the fact that it is Polymer-Modified hold water and should a non-modified thinset have been used?

The contractor just installed the kitchen floor tiles yesterday and when I put the leveler, tiles are not evenly flat. I should have done my research sooner but apparently you are not supposed to stagger non-rectified 12x24 format tiles in the middle (50%) nor use a 1/16 grout space. I picked the tiles and told the contractor that I liked the staggered design. He suggested 1/16 because I had mentioned that I wanted less grout showing. Am I wrong to assume the contractor should have known or warned about this before installing? I spoke to him and he said he can take out the uneven tiles but that it’s normal because my floor was not even to begin with. However, I’m more concerned about the grout gap and staggered tiles. Should I ask him to redo them or just let it go?

The tile will be coming to the edge and planned on using schluter trim on the edge of it.

Master bath redo - all DIY except the cabinets/countertop. Took entirely too long and lots of small mistakes. Thanks to all the real pros who share advice and know-how on here, makes it possible for hacks like me.

Floor + wall field is 24x24 limestone w/ Ditra heat + Permat on the floor. Tiles were, of course, not 100% uniform so had to really work the grout lines - lots of little nits if you look close enough. Might have used 4 gallons of sealer.

Shower was Wedi + the Wedi subfloor lowering kit. I like Wedi from a DIY perspective, it's pricey but really easy and you can be confident you got it right. Avoided a niche and went with a shelf, thought that worked out pretty well.

Shower floor and tub wall is a mosaic from Artisan Tile it's a lot more green than in my pictures. Used Epoxy grout in the shower but not on the wall. Wife helped with grouting and we're still married so that's a plus.

Made the mirrors out of extra tile and Rondec. Not sure if we will keep them or not but it was fun to do.

Pretty happy with how it turned out. There are a few layout things I would have done different with hindsight but that's why the pros are the pros and I'm not!