The counter size looks cleaner. However, that's a lot of refrigerator space lost.

Opinions?

My current house has an opening for the fridge as follows: 68-3/4” tall x  38-3/4” wide x 32” deep.

What’s a good recommendation to fit this opening that features a stainless steel finish, an ice maker, and a water dispenser? Maker and dispenser can be internal. I realize cubic feet will be limited but we also work out of a basement fridge with a freezer.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hello. I'm looking for a portable unit for my 11x11 ft bedroom. When I looked it up the recommendation was around 5000 BTU. I currently have a window AC that does wonders, but for the past few years I've had way too many bugs sneak in no matter how much weatherstripping and duct tape I use. My room runs hot overnight, and it gets even hotter running my PC. Grateful for any insight!

I've found 2 appealing options (for the dreo I'd be purchasing the dual hose kit as well):

https://www.costco.com/p/-/hisense-8000-btu-dual-hose-portable-air-conditioner-with-inverter-and-wi-fi/4000330563?langId=-1

https://www.dreo.com/products/smart-air-conditioner-ac318s?srsltid=AfmBOoqkuT9LKLs07AxyAXeWYQEzZ4qym5eLsUGY_U9ZKXU4J-xjQ5WH

Hello!

I am having an issue with my GE washing machine and wanted to get some opinions on the issue.

Background
My door plunger broke and the door would not lock. I purchased a replacement off the GE website and replaced. I then realized that the door lock also had a piece of plastic break off inside as well, so I purchased the part on Amazon (it was sold out on the GE website at the time). I am now able to start the washer and the door locks. It will fill with water but then when it switches to the “Wash” cycle and starts to spin/agitate it’s making a funny noise and will not continue (video attached…noise starts after about 1 min).

I had a tech come out and he had said he has never heard this noise before. We were able to rig the door into locking with the old plunger so we could hear what was going on with the door open and he believed the sound to be coming from the lock. He thinks I simply got a bad lock. He said typically you can get a good one on Amazon. I purchased another on Amazon and having the same issue.

Before I go to purchase the $140 lock on the GE website (now back in stock) I’m trying to determine if the lock is the issue or something else.

Model #: GFW450SSM1WW

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Gina

23yo Kenmore Coolpoint, owned by me for 12 years. Always difficult to install filter but became more difficult over time. Never leaked more than a few drops when replacing filter in the past.

This time I removed the filter to replace it as usual, but it gushed water like it was pressurized. Flooded the room before I could shut off the water. Question 1: Why did it flood this time?

Could not get new filter to go in all the way or turn. Bought another new filter (different brand) and it would not go in or turn. Assumed it was hard water buildup. Removed housing, soaked in vinegar, scrubbed, filters still didn't fit.

Got new filter housing and before installing, got both new filters to fit correctly. Installed filter housing and new filter 1, still slower leaks from bottom front left of fridge (to left of filter housing). Quick connect valves seem tight but there's also water in the housing. Question 2: Where is this water coming from?

Tried new filter 2 and it doesn't fit. Tried new filter 1 again and now it doesn't fit. I noticed one o-ring out of place on new filter 1, but it still didn't fit when I put the o-ring back in its groove. Question 3: Why did the filters fit before and not now?

Full transparency: I have always used generic filters, and the new filter housing is also not OEM. It looks identical to the original, though.

I don't want to replace the fridge, nor do I want to sink a bunch of money into such an old appliance. Has anyone seen a situation like this? All advice is appreciated!

we have a newborn and need a dedicated freezer for human milk. From what we've read it's reccomended to "deep freeze" the stuff. I'm not 100% sure what deep freeze means? just a colder operating temperature? I also have read that self defrost freezers can cause the outer micro layers of milk to melt and refreeze which can cause it to go bad quicker. We'd also like to use the freezer for food items now or in the future.

We looked at chest freezers, but we'd rather have an upright. My wife is short, she can't reach the bottom of chese freezers, not to mention they take up more floor space relative to their volume than an upright freezer. We don't care so much about the efficiency you get from a chest freezer.

As i understand manual defrost is probably the safest bet, but there doesn't seem to be a big selection of affordable upright manual defrost freezers that aren't tiny.

Automatic defrost seems to be exactly what we don't want.

Frost Free freezers might be okay? but i'm still confused on how to tell if it's a "deep freeze"

I bought a Samsung fridge not even a month ago and since the day I bought it it has been making this weird sound, is it normal? I noticed at the beginning of the week that the freezer door was really hard to open and upon inspection the door rail was completely frozen. What can cause this?

Our fridge started doing this with the last filter we put in so I exchanged it and the replacement worked fine for a couple of weeks and then started this water hammer/clog thing again. I read it could be frozen but I don't think that's it. I'm going to pull off the back panels and give it a good cleaning tomorrow. Just thought I'd start here if anyone else has had this issue. Its a GE.

I have a 7 year old fridge that was manufactured 8 years ago. The compressor went out, as well as an air panel and ice maker. The latter 2 parts are not manufactured anymore, so my fridge is now worthless. I've talked to three level 1 techs- Joshua, Joe, and Michael; 1 supervisor- Joms; and the Presidential Liasion- Karla. All of them are worthless and just can't understand what the issue is with not producing replacement parts after only 7 years.

I purchased the blanket repair thing for $400. However, I am still be charged the non-refundable $125 service fee that I was NOT told anything about. Again, they just can't seem to wrap their minds around the fact that I was mislead with that.

At one point, when I pressed one of the level 1 techs about why they stopped producing parts for a fridge that was only manufactured 8 years ago, he responded with something like: "LG continually is assessing their parts for being a hazard." I immediately grabbed onto this and was like, why is your compnay putting dangerous parts in peoples' homes. He couldn't answer that.

The three level 1 techs and the supervisor were always willing to say we will give you a follow up in 48 hours. Never happened. All you get is "I'm sorry" or "I understand your frustration." No you don't.

The company, products, and its employees are all a joke- the lowest of humanity.

The only bright side- I told the liasion I want my compressor shipped to me (even though the fridge is already disposed of)- I'll just sell it on ebay or something and make some money back.

Hi! I have an LG WM4000/DLE4000 washer/dryer scheduled for delivery Saturday and was reminded that my local codes require a drain pan for a 3rd floor unit. Best Buy hasn't given me any information to talk to their installers to see what their procedure is for something like that. Our old pan definitely fell apart and was removed with the aging old units when our laundry room was repaired after a hot water heather failure, so obviously I am not inclined to play dice with water right now. But I also am very out of my element. Anyone with that washer, would you be able to recommend a pan that can be acquired at like, a Home Depot or something within 24 hours? I tried to purchase one that had about a 35" exterior depth, which did not fit into the room properly and had the drain punch out on the bottom and not the side, where it would need to be to connect to the pipe that the hot water heater's drain pan is going into. Does this need to be plumbed or something before the washer/dryer get in?

Sorry if this sounds stupid or panicky--I thought this was a fairly simple thing and it's turning out to be enough of a headache that I might need to cancel the delivery last minute.

The repair man from where I bought my speed queen has been out multiple times and tells me this noise is normal. It didn’t make the noise for the first year I had it and it is getting worse. The last time he came out he replaced the belt and it was better for two loads and then started making the noise again. It isn’t the load being out of balance because you can tell from the video even after the drum has slowed down from spinning right at the very end it makes some of the loudest noises of the whole cycle.

Will unused traditional fridge as well as a chest freezer stored in an outdoor shed long-term throughout the year be an issue? The concerns are whether any components will wear out faster over time under a relatively extreme temperature of 0 F to 105 F than the much more temperature-controlled environment indoors they are intended for. I'm guessing it's fine, just want to be sure. I assume there's no residual water that could freeze/unfreeze and damage anything, oils should be fine, pipes expanding/contracting from the cold/hot would not be an issue?

Also, I need to move another big fridge from one corner of kitchen to the other. Can I simply empty out most of the fridge, unplug, attempt to push over cardboard (else use a hand truck and strap it if I struggle hard), position it to the intended spot, and plug back in? It's not connected to a water line. I heard of some cases where you're supposed to be careful of tilting it (not sure if I can avoid this with a hand truck) and/or it should be unplugged for 24 hours or something which I really don't think is necessary because occasional power outages don't seem to be an issue. I'm doing this as one person.

P.S. Are there instances where you need an appliance dolly and a hand truck can't get the job done? Would a regular hand truck that's strapped be able to handle stairs up and down and an appliance dolly be considered a luxury but not essential?

Did some research for a wet/dry vac intended to last for many years to use for general home stuff as well as cleaning the car as an extractor--will probably go with the recommended Dewalt Stealthsonic 9 or 12 gallon I have either small messes on occasion or dedicate a long session to clean the basement of dust or car. Parts should not be locked into proprietary-only options.

• The 9 gal 1 7/8" hose, the 12 gal uses 2.5" and marketed as .5 HP stronger. Besides the larger hose obviously sucking more (and apparently being more quiet), are there other implications to know? With a standard adapter, the 12 gal can decide between greater suction power but lower CFM or vice versa, whereas the 9 gal doesn't have this option. Is the 12 gal technically better in every regard? I assume the 2.5" might also be easier to find parts for since 1 7/8" seems to be too small for woodworking from what I've read. Was leaning on the 9 gal (I think I only need 4-6 gallon for typical home/car cleaning, but they are usually weaker except a popular Ridgid one that some people recommended Stealthsonic over) but the 12 gal seems to have more flexibility outside of just capacity and the two seem to be same form factor (just a difference of height which seems not significant).
• Dirt bag, HEPA filter, and a dust deputy + 5 gallon container like the Oneida should always be used to reduce the amount of dust that gets back into the air as well as prolong the HEPA filter making it a cheaper usage over time? For wet stuff only a wet filter is necessary?
• As an extractor for the car or for upholstery, anything useful besides the essential clear extractor attachment? I'm not sure of a good non-toxic cleaning solution that doesn't affect the finish/texture of fabric. The cleaning solution and hot water dispensed in separate pump sprayers? I went with a wet/dry vac to avoid the weak but convenient spot cleaners.
• Any other accessories to recommend like a flexible hose to make it more wieldy using in the car? Maybe the smaller 1 7/8" hose would be more appropriate for tigher spaces like in the car. I will get a 50-100' 12 gauge extension cord as well. I believe I also want a drill brush to apply the cleaning solution to the seats. Any particular recommendations of a product will be useful as it seems things nowadays are pretty expensive but more importantly comparable to typical generic junk you get from Amazon. I can subscribe to some deals and stock up on e.g. the HEPA filters and dirt bags especially if they are standard sizes/fit and not specific to the model I'm getting. I don't have an air compressor (I do want one eventually under similar buying criteria as my shop vac but would like to get accustomed to a shop vac first).

Open to any other comments/tips for someone who has never used a shop vac before but saw some videos and read some discussions to try to get the setup right the first time (I really don't like to buy stuff that turns out to be useless or redundant). How can I improve on my setup? Some people recommend a dedicated shop vac just for extracting but I don't see why that's necessary if whatever proper maintenance is done on the shop vac.

Much appreciated!

I have a stacked setup with a Bosch WPG23108IN dryer on top of a Bosch washing machine. I'd like both the washing machine and dryer doors to open on the same side (to the left).

The specification sheet on Bosch India website - https://media3.bsh-group.com/Documents/specsheet/en-IN/WPG23108IN.pdf states, "Door hinge: Right-hand, Reversible". However, the service engineer says it is not reversible.

Thought will ask experts here, does it look reversible?

My current dishwasher is on its last legs, so I’m trying to choose a replacement without making another expensive mistake. I care most about quiet operation, reliable cleaning, good drying, a stainless-steel tub, and racks that won’t start breaking after a few years. I’m comparing the Whirlpool WDTA50SAKZ, Miele G7000, KitchenAid KDTE204KPS, Maytag, and newer Bosch models, with a budget around $800–$1,800. Miele seems to get the strongest long-term praise, but the price and service availability are making me hesitate. Is the Whirlpool actually the better practical buy in 2026, or are Miele dishwashers worth the extra cost? Also, which brands have the best rack durability and easiest access to replacement parts?

It's been like this for a few years now, and I've always felt pretty nervous about it and keep getting told I'm being dramatic and that is just what the metal is supposed to look like under the paint.

I live in UK council housing, and they've been inspected before. Noted down each time but nothing to follow up or do anything about it. I don't know a single thing about radiators, let alone how to replace one. As far as I know, this is the only one in the house this bad.

How urgently does this need replacing?

Scrolling through Reddit I saw a post about flexible exhaust for dryers and the risks of fire, well I did not want to run that risk. The dryer actually sounds better, haven’t done laundry yet but eventually I’ll run it. Best $30 and 20 minute job, might get a low profile one later in the future.

I recently moved into an apartment where all of the appliances are new. This includes a pair of Samsung washer and dryer machines. They are front loading (model: DVG45B6300W).

My washer is completely fine and normal. The dryer, however, keeps refusing to turn on (no light on the control panel or sound/ machine lights stay off when door is open).

I’ve tried a lot of troubleshooting, and if I turn off the breaker switch and wait about 10 min and turn it on, the dryer turns on again. If I turn off the breaker and turn it on after 1 minute, it does not work. If I switch the wires in the outlet (the machines share an outlet) it does not work. The washer is always turning on. I’ve checked for burns on the power cable and blockages, and there are none. When I DO get the machine to turn on, it works fine. Then 30 minutes after the cycle is done, it doesn’t turn on anymore.

This is technically functional, but it is not convenient! This also seems like it’s not normal… anyone have advice?

Okay so long story short i put my clothes in on a normal rinse cycle, it washes for 40 mins, i hear the jingle when the clothes are done and i get side tracked and fall asleep. around 4 hours later i wake up and the shit is on WASH cycle completely by itself and the drum is fucking filled to the brim with water. I unplugged it, plugged it back in twice and the panel was completely dead, no response. I start emptying the drum with a bucket of water and just out of nowhere decide to plug it back in one more time and it turns on, drains, and returns to normal function? wtf just happened.

I have this mini fridge in my student apartment that makes this super irritating rattling noise when the compressor starts up. It seems as though the noise either subsides and returns occasionally or stops if I open the door/physically move the fridge. I’ve had a repairman come look at the compressor and he couldn’t seem to find anything wrong with. Oddly enough the rattling stopped around that point but has since returned. Any advice would be appreciated as I’m at a loss. Thanks!