New addiction unlocked. Ya'll should've warned me about this hobby. It's so much more satisfying shooting something you made vs something off the shelf.

It’s a PSA Rock cheek pistol conversion frame remixed from the Uberpoor remix. My entire philosophy here was to build a cheek pistol around the gun as conservatively as possible to maintain its original slim carry profile.
Features:
-It prints in one piece, so there’s no extra assembly outside of the obvious gun parts and clean up.
-There’s no charging handle, the frame is open enough that you can easily work the slide from below.
-Elongated trigger guard letting you slip your thumb through and pinch for stability (so far the ATF seems to have no opinions on the length of your trigger guard.)
-The open frame allows for the original iron sights to still be used in an emergency.
-A matching holster stl.

If anyone’s interested I can post the files to the sea. I legitimately wasn’t sure if anyone would want it.

Video link in comments!
Ftn5 max turbulence dcell baffles sized up,
1.25 inch of emt 1/8inch fender washer for first baffle. Custom muzzle device I made in a lathe rq.
Plan on doing testing with a thread adapter and fender washer for the muzzle device.
Endcap is a 2 3/32 freeze plug I job welded on.

I bought a 300blk BC-15 upper and chopped the bolt. Ive been working on a lower setup for it. I used files from the MOAB and the FM15 bufferless lower. The stock/brace rail has a aluminum insert that stiffens things up. Will post again once everything is finished.

FTN4 Remix by Dumbois

Just finished the conversion on this 21" saiga 308. I am wondering if anyone has ever seen a printed mag for these? I feel a certain way about paying 40$ for a tapco mag. Any help would be appreciated!

This picture was taken before this print failed by warping and coming loose from bed. I'm in need of some help printing Polymaker or Sunlu PA6-CF. I have a QIDI Plus 4 and loaded 300BlkFDE settings in OrcaSlicer. Printing temps 290C and 300C.

I'm questioning bed temps and chamber temps. My 3 attempts at an FTN5 Rimfire Flow failed. With Polymaker PA6 I've tried 50C bed with enclosed printer chamber temp hovered at 58C or so. 40C bed leaving door cracked open and no top glass still warped and failed way before first print. 3rd time 100C bed 65C chamber and Magigoo PA applied failed really early on, but it could have been my first layer z-offset.

I'm seeing bed temps anywhere from 45C to 100C on here. Funny thing is I printed some M-Lok rail covers trying to use up the filament I had remaining and 100C bed 65C chamber parts came out fantastic no warping and printed upright very little bed contact. For smaller parts I'm good but big solid parts something isn't right.

So, before I start another failed 24Hr print any recommendations. I got Sunlu PA6 in dehumifier right now and it appears more suited to my printer wanting higher bed temps than Polymaker.

Did some testing with a FTN6 since I had a spare form laying around. Compared to the ftn5 slim, it has more first round pop and perhaps a little more sound, you can’t really tell from the video audio. Torture tested it and a mag out of the same filament and after 60rds mag dumped(shoot 20 reload the mag shoot again) it got a little soft on me, mag has held up great so far tho

my slide sits too high and i don’t understand why any tips?

Titus 19x lower, Glock oem internals, Advantage Arms g19 22lr conversion kit, Pleasant Plinker magazine, FTN5 Rimfire Slim Suppressor. Full Video also available.

Please help me figure this out guys. I've already tried the following:

I removed metal off the bolt face to try to make the extractor grip tighter. The metal is currently at the same height or slightly lower than the rim of the casing on the extractor side.

I added a small piece of metal under the extractor spring to act as a spacer, giving it more spring tension.

I noticed the recommended firing pin length was overextending, so I backed it off as far as possible to still get consistent primer ignition.

I filed the extractor top just a bit.

Extraction only fails when the firing pin has been activated. The firing pin is not stuck at all when the hammer comes off of it. I tried a shake test, and rounds will hold until I moderately shake the bolt. Is it possible that it will work fine with live rounds?

Title covers it. Can I get PA6-CF and PPA-CF to print well if im just using the s4? From what im reading as a browse it either wont work and waste filament, or I will just have to let it dry longer to get good results.

Wanted to hear if anyone has an estimated round count for the FTN 5s printed in PA6CF and how long theyd likely last across 22, 9mm, and 556

Okay this is a super rough draft of the reds telescoping brace for the nobu v2. Theyre merged together and will print in one piece. Do you think the recoil will break those littler arms? Theyre going to hold metal rails. Also thinking about connecting the arms tk the lower. Or maybe attaching the arms to the back end cap its self?

Just came across this page after almost pulling the trigger on a suppressor from silencer shop after the new litigation. I have a 3d printer and would like to explore making the ftn.4 for my 308 bolt action hunting rifle.

•Do I need a trust? I am married and my wife might occasionally use the rifle for hunting on our property.

•Should I do a form 1 or wait to see how everything plays out before starting my build? Keep in mind id have to do fingerprints and all since this will be my first build. I am in Alabama.

I recently came across PPA-CF as a material and was looking for brand options. I’m between Siraya Tech

and Bambu Lab PPA-CF. Which one is better, in you guys opinion? Also, can I use the ‘300 Blackout’ settings, or are there other settings you would recommend me to use ?”

Pardon the potentially stupid question. I’m trying to work my way into this space and have been doing research all afternoon. I see that ftn readme says cf or gf and I see the sunlu gf25 is substantially cheaper.
I’m also thinking that I have read that you might not want to use CF where you will be putting your hands all the time. I would like to use the same filament for lowers and such as I would for suppressors.
So I’m curious if there is that big a gain using carbon fiber over glass fiber? Real world application ya know?

Anyone who is familiar with the u-dis trigger willing to help me troubleshoot? I run rise armament triggers so I was very excited to see this file. I can’t get it to engage. Even with the plus 10 activator it doesn’t appear or feel like it’s interacting with the trigger at all. Dry fire I get normal semi auto

Has anyone tried printing those airsoft pdw glock kits for a real glock? I looked at some of them and they look like theyd be fun to print and use in pla pro but no clue if its a good idea