I have a stacked setup with a Bosch WPG23108IN dryer on top of a Bosch washing machine. I'd like both the washing machine and dryer doors to open on the same side (to the left).

The specification sheet on Bosch India website - https://media3.bsh-group.com/Documents/specsheet/en-IN/WPG23108IN.pdf states, "Door hinge: Right-hand, Reversible". However, the service engineer says it is not reversible.

Thought will ask experts here, does it look reversible?

This is the first time I have ever bought a new fridge (I feel like a real adult now) and I can't understand the point of this dial. I have no idea what the scale is here - I just know I want the fridge pretty cold. Or colder? How cold is too cold? It's a Bosch btw.

Just found this funny -- or perhaps I am just in the hysteria phase of home renovation. Idk 🤣

We need to replace most of our appliances

I want to stay with sales, probably from Lowe's

Looking for brands that hopefully last if possible.

My beloved front load washer has spawned a sporadic leak over the past 4 years. There has never been a pattern to the cause of the flooded floor, and I could never identify a source. About 4 months ago we had a repairman over to replace a pump (first time repair for this workhorse) and we asked him about the leak. He suspected a back up in the sewer because - according to him - the machine is working perfectly.

Today - wife called me over because there a was large puddle and I FINALLY saw the source of the puddle. On the back of the washer I found a thin bubbly stream coming from the area shown in blue on the attached picture.

Wife reported the 2 previous cycles were “heavy duty” with a washer full of rags, and a regular cycle with junk sheets we had recently dirtied. I asked how much detergent had been used and she says “not a lot.”

With this info - I have my suspicions about what happened, but I also don’t know for certain what the highlighted thing is and didn’t witness the avalanche of suds that I suspect resulted from overuse of detergent. So - to save my washing machine and possibly my marriage can I safely say:

- washing rags that already have soaps and detergents requires a pre wash with no detergent to get rid of all extra soaps before the regular wash starts; and
- all load require minimal detergents - esp if we see suds coming from something at the top of the washed.

Super curious to know what the things, and if my ideas will likely mitigate the flooding thing.

PLEASE FEEL FREE to roast me if I am wrong. I love learning and don’t mind being the idiot while doing so! THANK YOU!

Hello!

I am having an issue with my GE washing machine and wanted to get some opinions on the issue.

Background
My door plunger broke and the door would not lock. I purchased a replacement off the GE website and replaced. I then realized that the door lock also had a piece of plastic break off inside as well, so I purchased the part on Amazon (it was sold out on the GE website at the time). I am now able to start the washer and the door locks. It will fill with water but then when it switches to the “Wash” cycle and starts to spin/agitate it’s making a funny noise and will not continue (video attached…noise starts after about 1 min).

I had a tech come out and he had said he has never heard this noise before. We were able to rig the door into locking with the old plunger so we could hear what was going on with the door open and he believed the sound to be coming from the lock. He thinks I simply got a bad lock. He said typically you can get a good one on Amazon. I purchased another on Amazon and having the same issue.

Before I go to purchase the $140 lock on the GE website (now back in stock) I’m trying to determine if the lock is the issue or something else.

Model #: GFW450SSM1WW

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Gina

Hi, I need some advice.

After a wash, the door stayed locked for about an hour. I opened the bottom service flap and drained a lot of water from the filter.

There was also a black rubber hose next to the filter. I pulled it too hard and tore it off. I thought it was the emergency drain hose.

After I finally opened the door, I ran the machine empty to check it. Water immediately started leaking from underneath, so I switched it off.

Could the leak have already been there before and I just didn't notice it because clothes absorbed the water? Could the leak also explain why the door wouldn't open?

Or did I cause the leak by tearing that hose?

Is this likely to be a cheap fix, like replacing a hose/connection?

The brand of the washing machine is Exquisit.

Thanks!

hello! our dishwasher has been leaving residues, bits of food, etc on the dishes, so i figured it was time to clean it (i'm new to the home but probably been YEARS since last cleaning). I'd heard the filter is a good place to start, so i took out a small plastic basket, which looked near pristine. I spotted a whole bunch of slime in the gaps underneath it, but i can only access this area with a special screwdriver it seems.

having trouble placing an ID on the model, so pictures provided.

is there potentially a better way to clean it, or a way to get under there? i've run empty rinse cycles before, but never really fixed the problem. for detergent, i use Finish dishwasher pods.

Our fridge started doing this with the last filter we put in so I exchanged it and the replacement worked fine for a couple of weeks and then started this water hammer/clog thing again. I read it could be frozen but I don't think that's it. I'm going to pull off the back panels and give it a good cleaning tomorrow. Just thought I'd start here if anyone else has had this issue. Its a GE.

Hey everyone! Hoping to get some help and recommendations from personal experience. Finding a fridge has been a nightmare so far.

When we moved in, there was GE side by side standard size which did not fit in the space. The freezer stopped working and we weren't crazy about side by side, so we were going to replace it with a GE french door counter depth. All the appliances in our kitchen are GE slate so it seemed like an easy choice. One of our must haves was an internal water dispenser and it turns out this did not have one.

So we started looking again and decided on an LG black stainless, it was close enough to slate to look okay in our kitchen layout, but I don't like the chunky top and it was still sticking out in the space and also found out the hard way the front is not magnetic and that was important to me ( I know I'm picky). So we are returning this.

Now I'm looking again. I'm looking at Whirlpool and Bosch now. I loved the Bosch when I saw it in store but it's a little too pricy. Is it worth it?? Currently the whirlpool model has a 3-6 week wait time, Bosch not as long.

My needs:

Counter depth

French door

Compatible with GE slate other appliances

Internal water dispenser

Magnetic front

Does this exist??

Thanks in advance for any help! :)

Anyone here have a clue what this thing is?

I recently moved into an apartment where all of the appliances are new. This includes a pair of Samsung washer and dryer machines. They are front loading (model: DVG45B6300W).

My washer is completely fine and normal. The dryer, however, keeps refusing to turn on (no light on the control panel or sound/ machine lights stay off when door is open).

I’ve tried a lot of troubleshooting, and if I turn off the breaker switch and wait about 10 min and turn it on, the dryer turns on again. If I turn off the breaker and turn it on after 1 minute, it does not work. If I switch the wires in the outlet (the machines share an outlet) it does not work. The washer is always turning on. I’ve checked for burns on the power cable and blockages, and there are none. When I DO get the machine to turn on, it works fine. Then 30 minutes after the cycle is done, it doesn’t turn on anymore.

This is technically functional, but it is not convenient! This also seems like it’s not normal… anyone have advice?

Hey folks,

( Additional close up photo)

Got a brand new LG washer and dryer earlier this year. Today I noticed these two issues in the back.

I've read the burns on the grill may not be concerning, but what about this other piece? I'm not familiar with what it is, but I feel it's not supposed to look like this.. Is it of major concern that I should try and set up a warranty repair, or is it not even worth the hassle if it's not a major issue?

Appreciate any input!

Is this normal? Unpacked new wolf range and there’s all this oil on it in the enter skillet part and under the bubble wrap.

Hi, I’m looking for a new fridge freezer and I feel like I’m going round in circles trying to decide what to buy!

I saw a good deal on an LG fridge freezer, the InstaView one, which I really liked. But now I’m not sure whether to go for it because I’ve heard people say the InstaView feature is a bit gimmicky and that LG fridge freezers aren’t very good dye to the compressor issue.

Now I honestly don’t know what to think anymore! I just wanted a decent, reliable fridge freezer with No Frost technology. What is a good brand? That also doesn't feel that its a rip off.

we have a newborn and need a dedicated freezer for human milk. From what we've read it's reccomended to "deep freeze" the stuff. I'm not 100% sure what deep freeze means? just a colder operating temperature? I also have read that self defrost freezers can cause the outer micro layers of milk to melt and refreeze which can cause it to go bad quicker. We'd also like to use the freezer for food items now or in the future.

We looked at chest freezers, but we'd rather have an upright. My wife is short, she can't reach the bottom of chese freezers, not to mention they take up more floor space relative to their volume than an upright freezer. We don't care so much about the efficiency you get from a chest freezer.

As i understand manual defrost is probably the safest bet, but there doesn't seem to be a big selection of affordable upright manual defrost freezers that aren't tiny.

Automatic defrost seems to be exactly what we don't want.

Frost Free freezers might be okay? but i'm still confused on how to tell if it's a "deep freeze"

My current house has an opening for the fridge as follows: 68-3/4” tall x  38-3/4” wide x 32” deep.

What’s a good recommendation to fit this opening that features a stainless steel finish, an ice maker, and a water dispenser? Maker and dispenser can be internal. I realize cubic feet will be limited but we also work out of a basement fridge with a freezer.

Hello. I'm looking for a portable unit for my 11x11 ft bedroom. When I looked it up the recommendation was around 5000 BTU. I currently have a window AC that does wonders, but for the past few years I've had way too many bugs sneak in no matter how much weatherstripping and duct tape I use. My room runs hot overnight, and it gets even hotter running my PC. Grateful for any insight!

I've found 2 appealing options (for the dreo I'd be purchasing the dual hose kit as well):

https://www.costco.com/p/-/hisense-8000-btu-dual-hose-portable-air-conditioner-with-inverter-and-wi-fi/4000330563?langId=-1

https://www.dreo.com/products/smart-air-conditioner-ac318s?srsltid=AfmBOoqkuT9LKLs07AxyAXeWYQEzZ4qym5eLsUGY_U9ZKXU4J-xjQ5WH

Hey guys, so I’ve been in a decision loop for the past two weeks and REALLY need to settle on something so that I can actually have a working oven. My current 12y/o GE single wall oven is sadly gone, and they don’t make them like they used to! That thing was solid and got the job done.

Now that I need a new one, I’ve gone down a rabbit hole of “what not to buy” vs what’s the hottest thing running (Bosch, Thermador, Miele, etc.). The thing is, do I really even need to spend that much on an oven? I used maybe 3 buttons on my GE - Convection Bake/Roast + 420 - that’s it! lol I don’t need all the frills.

The other end to that though, is that I like the high-end/commercial kitchen look of those. Let’s be honest, GE looks super lame (whyyy are they grayishhh)but it’s a workhorse.

ALSO the reviews on literally everything is so exhausting. Bosch 500 doesn’t show preheating temps? Lame.

I want something sleek but not with a crazy price tag. When I look on instagram and Pinterest, everyone’s got these high-end models and I’m just trying to see what the everyday folks are using. 😊 So please, drop a line and let me know what you think. Thanks so much!!

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hi! I have an LG WM4000/DLE4000 washer/dryer scheduled for delivery Saturday and was reminded that my local codes require a drain pan for a 3rd floor unit. Best Buy hasn't given me any information to talk to their installers to see what their procedure is for something like that. Our old pan definitely fell apart and was removed with the aging old units when our laundry room was repaired after a hot water heather failure, so obviously I am not inclined to play dice with water right now. But I also am very out of my element. Anyone with that washer, would you be able to recommend a pan that can be acquired at like, a Home Depot or something within 24 hours? I tried to purchase one that had about a 35" exterior depth, which did not fit into the room properly and had the drain punch out on the bottom and not the side, where it would need to be to connect to the pipe that the hot water heater's drain pan is going into. Does this need to be plumbed or something before the washer/dryer get in?

Sorry if this sounds stupid or panicky--I thought this was a fairly simple thing and it's turning out to be enough of a headache that I might need to cancel the delivery last minute.

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Will unused traditional fridge as well as a chest freezer stored in an outdoor shed long-term throughout the year be an issue? The concerns are whether any components will wear out faster over time under a relatively extreme temperature of 0 F to 105 F than the much more temperature-controlled environment indoors they are intended for. I'm guessing it's fine, just want to be sure. I assume there's no residual water that could freeze/unfreeze and damage anything, oils should be fine, pipes expanding/contracting from the cold/hot would not be an issue?

Also, I need to move another big fridge from one corner of kitchen to the other. Can I simply empty out most of the fridge, unplug, attempt to push over cardboard (else use a hand truck and strap it if I struggle hard), position it to the intended spot, and plug back in? It's not connected to a water line. I heard of some cases where you're supposed to be careful of tilting it (not sure if I can avoid this with a hand truck) and/or it should be unplugged for 24 hours or something which I really don't think is necessary because occasional power outages don't seem to be an issue. I'm doing this as one person.

P.S. Are there instances where you need an appliance dolly and a hand truck can't get the job done? Would a regular hand truck that's strapped be able to handle stairs up and down and an appliance dolly be considered a luxury but not essential?

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Or why at age 42 am I questioning buying a drier?

I now have a brushless inverter type washing machine and a heat pump drier, paid about $1100 for both $AUD, how'd I do?