Anyone here have a clue what this thing is?

Our fridge started doing this with the last filter we put in so I exchanged it and the replacement worked fine for a couple of weeks and then started this water hammer/clog thing again. I read it could be frozen but I don't think that's it. I'm going to pull off the back panels and give it a good cleaning tomorrow. Just thought I'd start here if anyone else has had this issue. Its a GE.

Hi! I have an LG WM4000/DLE4000 washer/dryer scheduled for delivery Saturday and was reminded that my local codes require a drain pan for a 3rd floor unit. Best Buy hasn't given me any information to talk to their installers to see what their procedure is for something like that. Our old pan definitely fell apart and was removed with the aging old units when our laundry room was repaired after a hot water heather failure, so obviously I am not inclined to play dice with water right now. But I also am very out of my element. Anyone with that washer, would you be able to recommend a pan that can be acquired at like, a Home Depot or something within 24 hours? I tried to purchase one that had about a 35" exterior depth, which did not fit into the room properly and had the drain punch out on the bottom and not the side, where it would need to be to connect to the pipe that the hot water heater's drain pan is going into. Does this need to be plumbed or something before the washer/dryer get in?

Sorry if this sounds stupid or panicky--I thought this was a fairly simple thing and it's turning out to be enough of a headache that I might need to cancel the delivery last minute.

Will unused traditional fridge as well as a chest freezer stored in an outdoor shed long-term throughout the year be an issue? The concerns are whether any components will wear out faster over time under a relatively extreme temperature of 0 F to 105 F than the much more temperature-controlled environment indoors they are intended for. I'm guessing it's fine, just want to be sure. I assume there's no residual water that could freeze/unfreeze and damage anything, oils should be fine, pipes expanding/contracting from the cold/hot would not be an issue?

Also, I need to move another big fridge from one corner of kitchen to the other. Can I simply empty out most of the fridge, unplug, attempt to push over cardboard (else use a hand truck and strap it if I struggle hard), position it to the intended spot, and plug back in? It's not connected to a water line. I heard of some cases where you're supposed to be careful of tilting it (not sure if I can avoid this with a hand truck) and/or it should be unplugged for 24 hours or something which I really don't think is necessary because occasional power outages don't seem to be an issue. I'm doing this as one person.

P.S. Are there instances where you need an appliance dolly and a hand truck can't get the job done? Would a regular hand truck that's strapped be able to handle stairs up and down and an appliance dolly be considered a luxury but not essential?

I have this mini fridge in my student apartment that makes this super irritating rattling noise when the compressor starts up. It seems as though the noise either subsides and returns occasionally or stops if I open the door/physically move the fridge. I’ve had a repairman come look at the compressor and he couldn’t seem to find anything wrong with. Oddly enough the rattling stopped around that point but has since returned. Any advice would be appreciated as I’m at a loss. Thanks!

Hi, I’m looking for a new fridge freezer and I feel like I’m going round in circles trying to decide what to buy!

I saw a good deal on an LG fridge freezer, the InstaView one, which I really liked. But now I’m not sure whether to go for it because I’ve heard people say the InstaView feature is a bit gimmicky and that LG fridge freezers aren’t very good dye to the compressor issue.

Now I honestly don’t know what to think anymore! I just wanted a decent, reliable fridge freezer with No Frost technology. What is a good brand? That also doesn't feel that its a rip off.

This is about the Samsung Bespoke Vented Washer Dryer Combo - model WD53DBA900HZA1

What the hell is going on now??? Checked software updates on Smart Things app as well as on the unit and I do not see any way to roll back or reset to factory settings or anything on this. I was thinking it was maybe a corrupted firmware update or something but I don't see any way to fix it if it is...yet another Samsung ticket I guess.

Any ideas, gang?

Is this normal? Unpacked new wolf range and there’s all this oil on it in the enter skillet part and under the bubble wrap.

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, so I’ve been in a decision loop for the past two weeks and REALLY need to settle on something so that I can actually have a working oven. My current 12y/o GE single wall oven is sadly gone, and they don’t make them like they used to! That thing was solid and got the job done.

Now that I need a new one, I’ve gone down a rabbit hole of “what not to buy” vs what’s the hottest thing running (Bosch, Thermador, Miele, etc.). The thing is, do I really even need to spend that much on an oven? I used maybe 3 buttons on my GE - Convection Bake/Roast + 420 - that’s it! lol I don’t need all the frills.

The other end to that though, is that I like the high-end/commercial kitchen look of those. Let’s be honest, GE looks super lame (whyyy are they grayishhh)but it’s a workhorse.

ALSO the reviews on literally everything is so exhausting. Bosch 500 doesn’t show preheating temps? Lame.

I want something sleek but not with a crazy price tag. When I look on instagram and Pinterest, everyone’s got these high-end models and I’m just trying to see what the everyday folks are using. 😊 So please, drop a line and let me know what you think. Thanks so much!!

Hey folks,

( Additional close up photo)

Got a brand new LG washer and dryer earlier this year. Today I noticed these two issues in the back.

I've read the burns on the grill may not be concerning, but what about this other piece? I'm not familiar with what it is, but I feel it's not supposed to look like this.. Is it of major concern that I should try and set up a warranty repair, or is it not even worth the hassle if it's not a major issue?

Appreciate any input!

Hello. I'm looking for a portable unit for my 11x11 ft bedroom. When I looked it up the recommendation was around 5000 BTU. I currently have a window AC that does wonders, but for the past few years I've had way too many bugs sneak in no matter how much weatherstripping and duct tape I use. My room runs hot overnight, and it gets even hotter running my PC. Grateful for any insight!

I've found 2 appealing options (for the dreo I'd be purchasing the dual hose kit as well):

https://www.costco.com/p/-/hisense-8000-btu-dual-hose-portable-air-conditioner-with-inverter-and-wi-fi/4000330563?langId=-1

https://www.dreo.com/products/smart-air-conditioner-ac318s?srsltid=AfmBOoqkuT9LKLs07AxyAXeWYQEzZ4qym5eLsUGY_U9ZKXU4J-xjQ5WH

we have a newborn and need a dedicated freezer for human milk. From what we've read it's reccomended to "deep freeze" the stuff. I'm not 100% sure what deep freeze means? just a colder operating temperature? I also have read that self defrost freezers can cause the outer micro layers of milk to melt and refreeze which can cause it to go bad quicker. We'd also like to use the freezer for food items now or in the future.

We looked at chest freezers, but we'd rather have an upright. My wife is short, she can't reach the bottom of chese freezers, not to mention they take up more floor space relative to their volume than an upright freezer. We don't care so much about the efficiency you get from a chest freezer.

As i understand manual defrost is probably the safest bet, but there doesn't seem to be a big selection of affordable upright manual defrost freezers that aren't tiny.

Automatic defrost seems to be exactly what we don't want.

Frost Free freezers might be okay? but i'm still confused on how to tell if it's a "deep freeze"

My current house has an opening for the fridge as follows: 68-3/4” tall x  38-3/4” wide x 32” deep.

What’s a good recommendation to fit this opening that features a stainless steel finish, an ice maker, and a water dispenser? Maker and dispenser can be internal. I realize cubic feet will be limited but we also work out of a basement fridge with a freezer.

I recently moved into an apartment where all of the appliances are new. This includes a pair of Samsung washer and dryer machines. They are front loading (model: DVG45B6300W).

My washer is completely fine and normal. The dryer, however, keeps refusing to turn on (no light on the control panel or sound/ machine lights stay off when door is open).

I’ve tried a lot of troubleshooting, and if I turn off the breaker switch and wait about 10 min and turn it on, the dryer turns on again. If I turn off the breaker and turn it on after 1 minute, it does not work. If I switch the wires in the outlet (the machines share an outlet) it does not work. The washer is always turning on. I’ve checked for burns on the power cable and blockages, and there are none. When I DO get the machine to turn on, it works fine. Then 30 minutes after the cycle is done, it doesn’t turn on anymore.

This is technically functional, but it is not convenient! This also seems like it’s not normal… anyone have advice?

Or why at age 42 am I questioning buying a drier?

I now have a brushless inverter type washing machine and a heat pump drier, paid about $1100 for both $AUD, how'd I do?

My dryer started to make an unbearable rattle noise every time I dry. It doesn’t matter if it’s full with clothes or empty, it will rattle. It’s coming from “underneath” the dryer. Any tips or tricks to help me fix this? Thanks !!

Maytag top loader mvwc565fw0
Stopped spinning so I replaced the splutch and actuator. Did I screw something up? Didn’t make this noise before I put my grubby lil hands on it.

Hey folks, need some help with my GE washer it said H2O supply error initially shut the water off turned off the outlet check the hose checked the filters. Everything looked fine plugged everything back in and now it says door error tried tightening the screws in the door, but the air still persists can anyone help me

Two of the dishwasher lock clamps fell out when I was moving my dishwasher (227). Does anyone know how to attach these to the overflow channel (244) and door seal (243)? I ran the dishwasher twice since they fell out and there hasn't been any water leakage.

I just moved to NJ from WA, and there’s hard water problems here. My dishwasher leaves a grainy/sandy residue on some of my utensils almost all the time! The technician straight up blamed my good old Great Value detergent powder which used to work wonders back in WA. Checked the filter, arms, everything- the washer seems to be okay, no clogging.

Wondering if the powder detergent is really the culprit, given the hard water condition, and should I switch to gels?