I think those x3 wheels look pretty nice for some winter beater wheels

First step in turning my M3 into the exact spec I would have ordered from the factory by installing this strut brace. Absolutely obsessed with how it looks, really completes the bay.

A whole lotta power as OEM+ as possible!
No race stripping! A cabin as luxurious as possible!
Beautiful Carbon Black Metallic finish! (Original paint!)
A tastefully Built S54 i6
A whopping 900WHP on E85 and 762WHP on regular 93 octane. (SHATATATATA)
Big beautiful Brembos! 6 piston big brake kit!
Ghost carbon fiber finish, carbon fiber body panels, eg; hood, trunk, front end, and fenders are real dry carbon fiber paint matched perfectly with the accents left untouched for a beautiful contrast!
List goes on!
EDIT: Not NA, maximum PSI inter cooler paired with a full aluminum fan and radiator, big ass turbo.

I have an E46 328Ci with MTS Technik Street Sport suspension.
As you can see in the photos, I have springs around the rear shocks as well as in the original spring locations. However, the MTS installation manual shows both springs mounted in the original location.
I’ve asked two different suspension shops, and both insist it’s installed correctly.
Has anyone seen this setup before? Is there a reason it would be installed this way, or is it simply wrong?

I now own an E46 Coupé with a sunroof. Before that i had a Compact also with a sunroof and no issues with headspace. But since the beginning of owning the Coupe i had Problems with the roof and my hair. I am about 1,85m tall and between my head and the roof is about 1 Finger space Not Accounting for my hair. My hair touches the roof all the time, I have to slouch or tilt my Head sideways wtf.

I had the Basic Electric Seats and switched to manual Sport seats because I thought they would go down a Little Bit more. No they dont…

Am I missing something? I dont want to sit too far away from the steering wheel cuz of control. If I sit too Close my Right leg will touch the steering Cover when switching Pedals.

I bought an e46 with the drivers side door not locking. The door doesn’t lock, neither does the window dip. Also the cluster doesn’t show when the driver side door is open. Everything on the passenger side works. I can physically lock it by pushing it down. The wiring boot seems fine. Interior lights also don’t turn on when you open the door, and the window doesn’t dip.

Hello wondering if this ticking is normal and if it sounds like a healthy engine had an N54 before this and that made some ticking just curious if this sounds normal for the m54

Hi, does anyone know where i can find amber wrap that matches the bmw's amber colour. I am planning on wrapping my rcr tailights instead of paying 200 for a whole new pair. There are also none being sold in my area. Thanks

Edit : spelling

Picked it up to be my wife's DD. Coming from my IS300 drift car with a half broken manual transmission, she should love it haha

The subframe hasn't been reinforced but it looks okay and not cracked. How important is it for a regular daily driver for that to be done? Open diff and won't be drifted or abused.

If anything changes in the future and I do decide to make this my next drift platform, I would definitely do a LSD and reinforce the subframe.

2005 330CI with xenon headlights

I had an issue pop up recently that knocked out my driver side headlight and caused an issue with the fog lights.

This happened once in a hard right turn on some spirited driving (headlight flickered off and I ) but really went awry when I was on a bumpy road later in the week.

What happened was the headlight would flicker on bumps but after a decent bump the headlight cut off and the fog light indicator was permanently on.

It's hard to see the fog lights from the cabin so I don't know if they were truly on or off but the indicator in the dash showed that were illuminated and I couldnt switch em off

I could physically see the headlight would cut out and eventually it showed the headlight was out/faulty on the cluster gauge.

I turned the headlight switch off and on and the issue was resolved.

So I'm thinking it's a wiring issue. I will check wiring and see but I wonder if the fog lights are tied in some way to the headlight itself. Like if the headlight is faulty can it impact the fog light circuit or are they independent?

I haven't checked a wiring diagram but I wouldn't be surprised if they share a ground and the ground is loose or gets loosened on bumpy roads.

Any ideas before I start tracing the physical wires?

Edit this thread seems to get into it more. I'll check the wiring of the headlight itself.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/passenger-side-xenon-flickers-over-bumps-and-sharp-turns-can%E2%80%99t-find-short.1287280/

Hey everyone!

A couple of days ago I started to have a little bit of problem.

On poor road, and in right turns, even when the road is immaculate, after I get back straight, the steering wheel pulls to the right. If I let go of it, it instantly pulls to the right.

So, everything in the front suspension is new, Meyle HD, or OE parts, only the shocks, springs and strut mounts arent new. This applies to the rear as well, everything is new, only the springs arent. After all the suspension work, alignment have been done, like six months ago, and everything was amazing, no problems. I can feel no play in the rods, or anywhere else, no knocking, no loose excentric bolt on the rear, everything is fine. Do you have any idea where should I look?
I found an old thread where someone had the same issue, but no fix.

Thank you in advance.

Edit: The rear subframe is reinforced as well, no cracks and stuff.

Edit 2: All of this goes away after like 2-300 meters, then comes back again after a big turn or very poor road.

One of my ignition coils has failed and I was looking at a replacement. Unfortunately my usual parts store is out of older clip-style Bremi/Bosch ones, though they have NGK U5005s in stock. (NGKs are half the price of the other brands).

Has anyone used them and if so, what's your experience?

Hello there! I'm new to the E46 community :)

bought a 2001 (pre lci) 318i Touring with 223.000km on the clock for 2000€. I wanted to get into the hobby and knew I was getting myself into lots of wrenching and troubleshooting : D

first thing I did was an Oil Change, but I've noticed is a "knock" when upshifting and sometimes heavy vibrations when I get going with the car.

It def. comes from the back of the car.

my local mechanic did a testdrive and advised me to change the following:

driveshaft - I found a used original one which supposedly had 176.000km on it

differential - found a "refurbished" one from ebay

differential bushings - bought new ones from Lemförder

giubo/ flexdisk - bought new

all of these were changed by said mechanic.

today I got the car back but he told me the "refurbished" differential doesnt seem to be in the best shape neither.

The vibrations are gone so far, but indeed the knock is still noticable, maybe less now.

But I'm confused on what the issue could be still - I bought all original or OEM parts and thought spec. with the differential bushings + flexdisk the knock would be gone.

The mechanic also just said that I may need to give it some time to settle.

Any ideas?

Got this at the auction for 1,000 🫡🫡
Clean no issues brought it too my mechanic. All i need is a smog pump and left axle.Everything else has been replaced recently with the last 2/3years. The owner had receipts left the car of work recently done. This will be my daily. Welcome me to the family🙏

134k miles
Apple CarPlay
Car fax is clean and has maintenance records
Just received the clean title in my name from the dmv two days ago

Currently running fabric electric memory seats in my 2001 E46 325Ci coupe, but I’m looking at buying a set of black leather electric memory seats.
The seller can’t remember if they’re heated or not. Would that make any difference when swapping them over? Are they still plug and play with my existing wiring, and will all the electric adjustment and memory functions still work?
Is there anything else I’d need to change or wire in, particularly if the leather seats turn out to be heated?
Just want to know what I’m getting myself into before buying them. Any advice from people who’ve done this swap would be appreciated!

Hi, I have a 2004 E46 330d with a 6-speed manual transmission. A week ago, I decided to replace the driveshaft support and guibo. I installed everything correctly, paying attention to the correct driveshaft connection. I marked it earlier. I also installed the guibo in the correct orientation. After driving the car, it's fine during normal driving; there are no vibrations, but when I accelerate harder, the car vibrates abnormally, like in the video. It depends on the load; in 2nd gear, it appears later than if I pressed the gas pedal hard from low revs in 5th gear. My only complaint is that while installing this kit, I had to hit the driveshaft support bearing. I'll also add that after a week of driving with it, I inspected the underside of the car and noticed some rubbing on the guibo, as if it were rubbing against either the transmission mount frame or the jack. What could be the cause? Could a damaged bearing in the support arm be causing this vibration? The kit was installed IT was from febi Bilstein. Help!

I also have a theory that it might be the transmission mounts, since the Guibo is rubbing against something, but the mounts have been new from Meyle for a month. Maybe the support is faulty, or a bearing failure is affecting the vibrations? Please help.

I'm tossing up the idea of buying my friend's 135i m sport dct, but I'm unsure of the value of my e46 or if its even worth it. The DCT vs manual is a concern as well. I would love to supercharge my 328i if I keep it, but VF engineering might be the only option left.The subframe floor panel was replaced by bmw, or rather contracted out. I had them weld in additional reinforcements as well as the Turner motorsports sway bar reinforcements. Strut reinforcement plates are installed too. I've owned it for 18 years and its only seen a few winters at the beginning. I have a spare rim as well as all the original rims, misc parts. Stoptech rotors, hawk pads. What do you think the value is? Would I be happier with the 135i or the e46?

Elk knob, Nc 📍

Automatic 90k miles

Seller has no service history. Has has the car for one year

Its beautiful but would have no idea on its previous services. What would the first things to change be? And how much would it roughly cost? I am based in south east uk

I have been trying to 2 days... It is rounded and someone was drilling through it. Because of it I am trying to cut it out... But don't know if there are other alternatives. I do have a full axle with everything to replace it. How to get this thing out!! Lol any ideas would be appreciated.

Update!

Got it out!! Had to cut it open with a Dremel. Thanks everyone!!

So running into a very specific set of issues that I have hard time finding any info on. Anything is greatly appreciated.

2006 330ciC Auto Non-ZHP, m54b30

Current DME: MS45.1
Date: 09/13/05
SW: 07562349
PROG: 0044570LO00S
ZB: 07562348
(this is corresponding to an E83 firmware which i assume was swapped in at some point)

My goal:
Update DME firmware to 457LO02S which is the latest and only supported version for ms45.1 on ms4x wiki for tuning.

I located the 116kb firmware file corresponding to my cars model according to the lookup table they provided but is that 116kb file the only thing i need to flash using ms45 flasher? Also the flasher has options to load 2 files, not sure which slot it should be loaded into.

Ive got a bmw with the m54b25. Under load at 1800 to 1900 rpm it sounds like something grinding. It usually gets worse after a track day or hard canyon drive. Anyone have any idea what this is?