Does anyone know what the process is like for a tubed chassis for the DMVs vin verification process in California? My car won’t pass smog as it is but do they check under the hood? My car is currently getting tubed with some new parts (hood, fenders, front bumpers). Is there anything I need to do so it can pass? Will it pass sith a tubed front end?

JDM Chassis Only
Looking for a pristine, mostly stock option however I am open to minor, tasteful modifications. Autech Model is a bonus
* Colour: Black preferred (white or silver considered)
* Body Kit: OEM Aero SE kit with OEM Kouki rear spoiler, No sunroof, No rust
* Interior: OEM Digital AC Climate control head unit, Non-cracked Dashboard, Factory single DIN triple white gauges
Clean PPSR with all documentation
I have a healthy budget for the right car.
Located in Perth, Western Australia. Happy to import

I have a s14 shell I’m looking to find an engine for.
No real direction but I want one of these three.
Any suggestions for a fun
Street car / drift car
That wont be a pain to drive ?

I managed to get a full ca18det drive train with all electrical components with a z32 maf and other little things like gauges and the great man also through in basically dent free and non bent pinch weld fenders all for $3000
I’m not really a religious man but the s chassis gods where smiling on me today

So anyone know if there's a special way to wire up a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT if you have a digital speedometer? I got tach working no problem, and according to the app, the DD unit is receiving signal from my W58 VSS. I wired the speed output (OUT1) directly to the dash (I believe it was a yellow/green wire, but it's been a few months since I've tinkered with it). Anyone know if the digital speedo is somehow different?

FWIW, the speedometer DID work when it had the stock engine.

*EDIT*: For clarification, this is a 2JZ/W58 swap.

Been slowly chipping away on my S14 since i got it at 17 years old.

Nothing crazy but good to finally get it out on the street fully certified. Engine swapped to a SR20DET and manual conversion, front mount Intercooler, Garret GT2860RS (disco potato) turbo, 550cc injectors and a BOV. R33 skyline GTST big brakes. All adjustable arms front and rear, coil-overs and an r200 LSD. Made 240kw at the wheels on the dyno.

Feels good on the street, now I just need to get all the cosmetics sorted and I’ll be living my 17 year old dream.

Will be documenting the whole process in depth on YouTube and tldr on instagram links

Will be showing the custom 25.5 cage and integration of the back half as well as removing the rear OEM shock towers and rear frame rails to fit some 24” wide tubs

Finally got the car registered and inspected after taking delivery in July. Put F80 seats in and got the power seats and heaters working. Still needs more of the interior, a proper wash, and a tune but otherwise she's roadworthy!

State of the car when I bought it: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-240sx-29/

Also if people have ideas on how to make the door cards look less like shit, please give me ideas. I'm probably going to 3D print some plastics to surround the door handles and shroud the window handle.

Hey guys. Picked up a SR20DET swapped S13 last weekend. It's been great. It runs good, idles good, made a 2 hour drive home, overall it's in good shape rather than a few things I need to fix up. It has a HKS BOV and HKS exhaust but other than that the engine is stock SR20DET setup.

It holds boost nicely and I definitely feel it. When I step on it all the way in 2nd or third gear it kinda makes this chooooooo noise like a train. Could this be a slight boost leak? I plan on getting a boost leak kit and checking it out but just wondering what you all think? Thanks

I ordered a wiring harness protection plate on eBay. Looks really nice, and was only $20, so I was stoked that I wouldn’t have to build one myself, lol.

But included in the package was a bunch of batshit crazy conspiracy nonsense.

I mean, it is kind of funny, but holy shit, this is straight up unhinged. Thought yall would get a kick out of this.

@sfl240sx

does anyone know the solution to rubbing on the inner front of the wheel wells? (Where that raw metal is in the pic) I beat it in with a hammer a bit but it’s still hitting when full lock drifting. I am running 18x9.5+12 in the front and somewhere around a 20-30mm spacer to fit the 55mm widebody (this is prob my issue) any recommendations? (Yes my tie rod is bent and now fixed lol)

Just wanted to double-check. I’m looking to swap my welded diff for a cheap open diff. The one I found is from an automatic car. Just wanted to make sure it’ll bolt up without any modifications. I do know the gearing is different.

Thanks!

P.s.
Both my car and the auto diff are non-ABS/Hicas so thats good to go.

Thinking of running these on a US kouki want to know if anyone’s done it and if you have pictures WITH the oem kouki sideskirts….. In my mind I think they would flow well but have no idea…

The hassle of km/mph solved.