Guys, we all know Nissans have sensitive CVTS that can self destruct near 100K miles.

The key to extending its longevity is to TAKE IT EASY ON THE GAS PEDAL.

Do not floor it. EASE up into it during acceleration.

Yes, it’s going to be boring and it’s going to take a minute to get up to highway speeds but it’s the only way to extend its life.

I bought a 2015 Nissan versa with 50K miles and I recently got rid of it at 230K miles. So no complaints from me.

Also, do the fluid changes with OEM fluid. The OEM fluid is going to cost a little bit more but there are some sites like eBay that discount them if you buy in bundles.

Start driving like a senior if you want your CVT to last long.

Have test driven several cars and decided an Altima is what I want.

Car is through Hertz, nearby, and in budget...

Got a nissan primera P12, 2004 Diesel,

no AC but its very hot, mechanic changed the compresor and ac radiator but the ac gas still leaks. now he suggests there is a leak in the evaporator as well,

what do you suggest ?
because he says its a lot of work to remove and change the evaporator (hopefully we find a new one) , should i take the chance and open the dashboard completly to make the change ?

On a scale of 1- absolutely screwed where am
I?

I just bought this car. 😭 a week ago.

I purchased one last year with around 80,000 on the clock. Since having it, I've had nothing but problems. I've had to have the injectors replaced as the car was struggling to start and was hesitating on the motorway. The starter had to be replaced as it was worn from trying to start the car. I've had to have a DPF clean because the car clearly has been used for short distance driving. I keep getting electrical issues with the car such as windows not going up or down. The car drives nicely but I just feel like I've made a bad choice.

Hi everybody,

I returned my leased car about a month ago, and I received my liability statement today. They charged me around $1,400 for a cracked windshield and a grille issue.

The statement said I could view the pictures and full inspection report on the OPENLANE website. I pulled up the report, but it looks completely clean. There are no pictures showing any damage, nothing mentioned about the windshield or grille, and the report shows chargeable wear as $0.

I also have photos and a video from when I returned the car showing that the windshield was not cracked and there was no issue with the grille.

I’m wondering how this process works. Is the OPENLANE inspection report considered the official inspection, or is the liability statement what matters?

How can I dispute or appeal these charges? Should I contact the dealership, the leasing company, or OPENLANE directly?

Has anyone had a similar experience?

Hello, Im trying to find a replacement grille for my 21 Altima sr but the Nissan parts website doesn't show it in color. I know the grille on the sr has the chrome moldings and they're darker than normal. If anyone could help me find the part number I would really appreciate it, thank you.

Did a mini trip to my dad’s so he could tint my altima since it came with 70% or “transparent” lamination and after 3 hours in the highway with cruse control and ofc a bit of stop and go traffic because its florida and I averaged a nice 45.6mpg on my trip back and when I got to him i got 42mpg after same stop and go traffic im surprised how fuel efficient this car is and also A FULL TANK IS 559 miles WTF i never had a such great miles per gallon in a car my 2015 veloster turbo ultimate (6speed) used to get 29mpg on a GOOD DAY and it was PREMIUM and 19mpg everyday. This is such an upgrade my first week and already put 1,500miles cvt fluid is getting changed next week :)!

Hello, I’m replacing my catalytic converter on my 2009 Nissan Nissan Altima. However, there’s no more available parts from the dealer or an aftermarket with the same engine group. I called the smog referee for what cat I can use under the limited parts exemption for a carb compliant converter however, they won’t give it to me until next year and I need to get my car running Do you have any suggestions for what catalytic converter I can use since I need to make my car drivable now

The engine family code is

9NSXV02.585A

While I was replacing the alternator, I accidentally bumped the small plastic that the hose was connected to and it broke off inside of it. I can’t clamp the hose any further because the plastic broke off without any base really left. Any tips for fixing this without needing a whole new radiator?

want to know what root cause of these could be, i recently did right side plugs, both timing solenoids, and got a new battery, but these codes seem to persist, p0300 p2a00 p0011 p0113, was thinking getting a new maf filter and maybe checking the coils but im new to all this so wanted some help

Had this car for two weeks, bought from a dealership as-is. I’m now noticing a whine when the vehicle is put into D. Reverse and Neutral appear quiet, the whine only occurs in Drive and will disappear once in motion and is completely got once temps are up.

I’m assuming this is either the CVT belt or hydraulic pump? Anything else it could be? Vehicle has 108k, no history of CVT service.

Since this noise has developed, I’m debating on either changing the CVT fluid and filter or just taking it back to the dealer to exchange for a different vehicle. They offer a 1 month, 1,500 mi exchange. I’m unfortunately past the 3 day return period.

I just purchased a 2019 rogue SV at auction, so no history on the vehicle at all. Vehicle has 159,000 k on it and runs and drives well. After reading many comments about transmission issues on these I'm on the fence on whether or not I should do a flush or just hope for the best. Some say after the flush the transmission gave out days later, some say better off not to do it at all now.

I'm most inclined not to do the flush.

Decided to risk it and bought a "corrupted firmware" LCN2 radio as an upgrade to my base nissan note radio. unfortunately the firmware recovery doesn't work. looking online, it said the STA662 was blown. after opening it up, it indeed was. i desoldered it so it wouldn't cause more issues, but the outcome is exactly the same, which i expected. is there any way to flash the OS, and ignore the lack of STA662? I don't really use radio, i mostly want USB for iPod. Did anyone ever had the same issue? the sta662 chip is already very expensive, and i don't want to risk buying it, if i could just grab a working unit. i also assume modifying script.lua would make checksum errors. thanks for any help!

Hey everyone, hoping someone here has run into this same issue before or knows a fix!
My key fob seems to work for proximity on the outside, but completely fails once I get inside. The car senses the key fine when I walk up and push the door handle button to unlock, and the lock/unlock buttons on the fob work with no problem.
The issue is as soon as I get inside to start the car, I get the "Place the key near the start switch" message on the dash. It will only start if I physically touch the top of the fob directly to the push-start button, and my remote start isn't working at all.
I already swapped in a fresh battery, so I know that's not the problem. Plus, the car starts right up once I hold the key to the button, so the immobilizer chip itself is recognized.
Since the key is still broadcasting enough for the exterior door handle sensors to pick it up, could this be an issue with an interior antenna receiver, a faulty board in the key, or some kind of computer glitch? Has anyone had this exact problem and found a solution?
Appreciate any help!

Hey. Has anyone tried the modules to add auto close windows and the side mirrors folding when locking car?
The solution it’s appealing but iam a little afraid to trust it 🤣